Search results for query: *

I just notched the lower bump stop bracket also! Didn't do the upper arms yet. Wanted to do some driving this summer! I got to say. I am very pleased on how nice they fit. I'll put the upper arms on this fall. Then get it aligned.

I got a pair of tubular upper Arms and QA1 coil overs with adaptors. The upper arms look close. But the coil overs look like they hit the upper bump stop. Has any one done this with just cutting off the factory upper bump stop? I'm hoping I didn't get taken to the cleaners with this!

If they are radials. The cords can shift at anytime. Look for a lump in the tire. Sidewall or even the thread area.

They are just like all the new cars with the sealed bearings. Most of the hub bearings are like this.

I have the same on the Duster. Handles good on the street.

I didn't use any aftermarket parts in mine. When I flipped the front mounts. All I did was to elongate the hole to match the frame. I did go buy 8 grade bolts to tighten it up. Put the bolts in from the spring side. Hold them with some tape till you get the nuts on. Then pull the tape out.

I got the 002,003 springs on my car. With the Front mounts flipped. I sure wouldn't want to use blocks to lower it. Anything you acomplish with the springs would be thrown right out the window with putting the blocks in. Just more of a chance for the axle to shift at the launch. Here's...

Looks SWEET! :burnout:

I don't under stand why it's that low. I put S/S springs in the back of the Duster. It looked like a stink bug. I flipped the front mount to lower it. Here's a pic. S/S springs 002& 003, 255/60-15's with the hangers flipped.

Should be right around that. Mine is 3300#.

All A body springs are the same lenght i belive. Don't know about early A body springs. 67 and up should all be the same.

I went through a lot of those pumps when I was working at the GM dealerships. Didn't know you could do that. I saved the article to my puter.

You could. I don't advise it. The older bar will have a different rate than a "new" one. Just like putting on only one shock or one spring. The spring, say a leaf style would sit different. If you are saying. Using a new used one. Make sure it's from the drivers side. I have seen guy's put...

Some alignment shops will align with the thrust angle. When the rear axle is not straight with the front. They used them to make it all square. As in a rectangle.

This is as low as I'll go. Lowered the front about 1- 1 1/2 in. Back about 1 in.

Thats the one for the strut rod. That go's from the front of the K frame to the lower control arm. It is used to keep the lcr. in position. You want the bolt on the bottom of the control arm. It go's up into the lower arm. You'll see the head of it just out board of where the torsion bar...

Not the cheapest way. But the best way. New springs. XHD would be best. But if you plan to drag it. S/S springs.

They work. Owned one car that was a drag car most it's life. A Duster. No connectors on it. Went to jack it up on a level floor. Put the stands on the rear frame on the front spring mount. The front on the front rails just where they come down to the flat. The left front was almost a half...

Bingo!

I'm not even getting in this. Makes no sense. Your not driving it around.

Trade them. Somebody should be able to do it.

Sounds like your springs are weak. 3 different ways of doing it. Air shocks, coil over shocks, or new springs. All depends how much you got to spend. Don't mess with the front spring mount. or changing the mount on the axle. You will gain 3 inches swaping the axle mount. Do it the right...

Got mine from Mancini also. Went right in and just welded them in there. After I got it all together. I primed them, then used some spray on bed liner. Worked out great and still looks great.

Put it in, then get a torque strap from Shumachers or some one else.

I blew out my front U joint at the strip. The 727 almost had the same fate. I cracked it about 2/3 of the way around. Was able to get it welded up. I'm glad I had a safety loop on it.

Hitting the back side of the arm will jarr it better and you won't mess up the puller.

I've had a few like that. Tighten it up with the puller. When it won't move, Rapp it with a 3lb. sledge hammer a couple times. The Rapping will help loosen it. Tighten the puller up a little more, and hit it again. After a few times it will start to come off. Hit it around the other side...

You could go with a 340 sway bar. Thicker dia. Should help the lean factor.

If you mean turning the wheels from stop to stop. I would say that the ball joints are very tight on that side. Thats the next things you will have to replace. It would be best in the long run to replace the ball joints on both sides at the same time. Good luck and let us know how it's going.

I used the MP frame connectors Mancini. I welded them in also. It really gave me a stiffy! LOL!