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Another +1 for ESPO, put on their springs with a full rebuild 2 years ago and they've been great as far as I can tell.

Happy with my KYB's as well. You can also just get the bushings you need from Moog on rockauto pretty dang cheap.

Can't blame you there, if I hadn't had the other 3 installed already I would have just used the E.S. boots all around too.

Just finished a front end re-build (and new rear shocks and springs as well). I put in new JustSuspension 1" bars. I got the alignment close on the front end and it feels fine, doesn't pull to one side or the other much, but I know it'll need a real alignment since I just got it as close as I...

ilcuda - I had the same tough time as you getting the Moog seals on the lowers. One of them I tore in the process so I bought energy suspension seals, it's much easier it doesn't snap on like the Moog one. Time will tell which one is a better seal (have Moog on one side and E.S. on the other)...

Well, went to finish things up today. Got the driver's side all done minus adjusting the ride height and toe-in to take it to an alignment shop! Then I tore the dust-boot on the lower ball joint for the other side, so now I have a looooong wait for new boots in the mail before I can finish her...

Clamps (and a rubber mallet) did the trick! Passengers side needed more clamping and is definitely a little stiffer in there but when there's a quarter of a car sitting on there I don't think it'll make much difference, just makes it a little tougher to get the alignment roughly right.

I know normally Moog bushings come with metal end-caps already on so washers aren't needed. With the offset ones the ends are just open rubber so you can see the direction of the offset when pressing the bushings in, and they leave the end-cap washers separate. The image on rockauto when I...

Thanks Mike, I will see if I can get my hands on a big clamp and use that. Wasn't sure the arms would be flexible enough for that but sounds like a good idea.

I don't have an old bushing to compare to unfortunately but these did have a flare on them to keep the bushing out, and 1/2" seems to be about what's left over.

Any other ideas what might be wrong here?

It doesn't look smashed to me, might just be a weird angle on the picture. These are the Moog offset bushings, got them from RockAuto. It does appear the machine shop I took them to used some lubricant on the bushings when they pressed them in, and as I said I don't think they could go in any...

Trying to re-install my upper control arms right now. I had the new bushings pressed in at a shop but they left the little metal things ("ferrules?" in the instructions) out. I did my best pressing those in, but with them in, I can't get the control arm to seat in the frame. The front and back...

Unless someone has done some serious modifications to your front or back mounts, the front end has a horizontal hole at the bottom for a through-bolt and a threaded stem at the top that accepts a nut from the top in the engine compartment... the back shocks have horizontal holes at both ends and...

I put ESPO springs on but haven't driven yet, they look nice at least. You can get 5 or 6 leaf (and stock height or +1 or +2 inches), the stock ride height ones look like the price is about on par with Mancinis, maybe even cheaper for the 5 leafs.

I really butchered the x-member side threads on my strut rods getting the nut off. Does anyone have some straight ones they'd be willing to sell? I need the 72 and earlier style (fine threads), would take the nuts too if you've got them. While we're at it, here's one for the "time to replace"...

Been a while since I updated: Everything in the back is done. Wire-brushed and painted the spring hangers and plates and got the ESPO 6-leaf springs back in. Ready to torque everything to spec soon as I let her down on the ground. Out front I got the works ordered from RockAuto. Ball joints...

Do some of the inner bearing seals have a rubber seal with metal lip? When I took off my hubs, I found a raised lip on one side that was rubber and came out easily with the seal, but on the other side the raised lip was metal and I pried (or perhaps tore) just an inner rubber cylinder out when I...

Not to piggyback but since we're on the subject of sway bars and this is a simple question: It sounds like the sway bar tabs are the same on all LCA's that have them. I have a 73 car, with 73-up LCA's but an earlier 70's k-frame and what I think is an early sway bar as well. So my question is...

The rear leaf spring brackets on my duster are split in the cylindrical part. The split is probably 1 mm wide on one side and more like 2-3 wide on the other. They run the length of the cylinder. Is this split normal so I can re-use the rear brackets, or should I buy new ones? I figure they were...

Here's one place that sells the block and bolt, at least. No idea how hard it would be to get the old one out and a new one in (the block) or the quality of an aftermarket piece. http://americanmuscle.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/74333/35612

I've got the Haynes manual and I'm STILL on here about every job I do! Can't beat personal help on this kind of stuff, nothing works the way the book says it will...

Just an update on the progress, I'll probably just turn this into a suspension rebuild thread. Got the old leaf springs off the back, the shackles and shackle bushings were quite new so I think I'll reuse those. U-bolts look like they're in good shape too so I'll probably reuse them. Since the...

HemiPar - According to the Haynes manual, 1971 A-body 2 door ride height should be set at 1-5/8 inches. Like you said this is the difference between 2 measurements. "A" is from lowest point of the torsion bar adjuster arm (they call it a "blade") to the floor. "B" is from the lowest point of the...

Ok, here's a question. I've got a 73 car with the 73+ disc brake setup, but a 70-72 k-frame. Is the 73+ sway bar different from the pre-73? Are the bushings between the k-frame and sway bar different for different years? I know the end links are different, but didn't know about the middle...

Thanks guys, I think I will go ahead and do ball joints and bushings. I don't have easy access to a welder or grinding tools, so would it be worth it to box off the lower control arms? I don't plan on doing much more than cruising in the car, but I saw you can get the plates on P-S-T to do that...

Any other ideas? I'm looking at the ESPO front end kit, USA made and good price. I'm getting leaf springs and bushings from them tomorrow so I'll see if their quality looks nice. Starting the teardown process on the passenger's side tomorrow too. Planning on sticking with rubber, not poly.

kyboutlet.com has the set of 4 for $147 (free shipping), at least for a '73 Duster. Shipping was free and pretty quick I thought. Don't know if that's the best price, I bought there because I was getting the Just Suspension torsion bars as well. If you buy from there, you should be able to get...

KYB Gas-A-Just shocks gave a nice firm but not harsh ride on my Duster as an upgrade from stock, without replacing the torsion bars or leaf springs. You can get sets for the $120-140 range for all four shocks.

Got my car up in the air again to replace the torsion bars, and I notice that the LCA bushing is pretty much blown out on the passenger side. I should have noticed it earlier, the wear on that tire is really strange ("cupping" I guess would be the technical term). My question is, since I'm...