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My 70 super bee had plastic, 383HP with an 18 spline from factory

Did it used to come all the way up? may be combination of wear and adjustment if it did. or something else moved. I had a nylon torque shaft bushing go bad (broken up and gone), on a b-body and it made my pedal drop considerably. I noticed it by the twist in the torque shaft at the frame...

yes

The plastic bushing halves on both ends are probably broken up. It will tilt like that if you don't have them installed or they are broken.

That definitely is worse as I have seen on an A833. I have a 76 OD I rebuilt completely. I put all new synchro hubs, sliders, brass, locks, wires, bearings, etc. Shifts awesome. put it behind a strong 360 with 3:23 gearing and tall 15 inch wheels. I love it. I would rebuild it. I gave 150 for mine.

the problem is putting the tranny back up. without perfect disc alignment and a very stable trans jack it tends to damage the clutch disc. I did a b-body clutch like that, if it doesnt go in right away the weight of the transmission on the disc splines is damaging. Get help and have someone in...

Find a 76 iron case OD if your going to beat it down the track a jillion times. the other point of wear is the input shaft bearing. That is why the larger bearing on the OD. Theres a diagram in some post in here showing the drive paths of the gears. I just rebuilt my 76 iron OD and the counter...

If you have stop screws in your new hurst shifter try backing off a 1/4 or 1/2 turn after the linkage is re-adjusted. If it still throws out of gear its likely a syncro problem.

Checked with brewers and this step on the gear is normal, mawpar made them that way.

Received my new gears today, posting a pic of the 3-4 syncro hub...Does this look new? I think not, old one on left, "new" on right.

Thanks Steve, I will have all new sync's and sliders, gears are good. I just wonder about the side cover, I have the steel forks with just a small wear pattern, looks like they are both straight..after I assemble it on the bench I'm going to put a shifter on it and make sure it works well.

There's a couple of longer shoulder bolts, easy to locate to the thicker bosses on the side cover casting. I am buying both 1-2, 3-4 syncro hubs and sliders. should shift like a dream.

I have an OD iron case/tail trans and I think the side cover or internals may not be correct as the 1/2 fork is not bent but throws the syncro so far it locks out and gets stuck from the keys popping out. they don't fully come out but syncro goes all the way to the 2nd gear face. casting number...

This is what was causing trans to be stuck in 2nd. brass has tip broken away allowing the syncro key to move farther in the travel, overcentering and jamming the syncro slider. Probably a broken spring was the beginning of the end. I will replace springs keys and brass on both sides and see if...

I haven't installed it yet, still gathering parts. With all the options out there this seemed a good investment as you can remove the weight or move it to another position for different applications. I got the link for the 440 flywheel somewhere on here...inexpensive but billet and great finish

I am planning on changing the syncro hubs and sliders in my A833 OD unit and wondering if the parts are the same as for the 1:1 A833. I know the main shaft is different for the smaller "3rd gear",(OD)...but don't know if the 1-2 and 3-4 syncro assemblies will interchange between the two types...

Make sure you remove the plug first, lol, Don't ask me how I know

I'm doing a 360 883 swap, I purchased the 440 source flywheel. with the original balancer it should work great. Just have to make sure the weight is in the right position on the back. (bolts on).

My super bee with a built 440 and race clutch used to do that. Got so bad it would eat the clutch disc in no time. Pulled the transmission and found a crack all the way across the trans tunnel, every time I pushed in the clutch the whole body would flex. shoulda put frame connectors in I guess...