100 horse shot of nos for 440?

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74slnt6 said:
I was running a dual plane Edelbrock performer when I ran 11.64 all motor. I'm thinking ill run a single plane with a rpm range between about 1500-6000. I don't intend to ever rev over 6000, while shifting at 5500.


Do you know where it actually makes power? I can tell you from dyno testing an engine in your power range (my car goes 11.70's@114 in the quarter and is a 10.5:1 440) it peaks at 56-5700 with a performer RPM intake. I tried a victor jr. that the engine builder had and it made more hp at that same RPM but peaked a touch higher. I have a GVOD so a 4th gear is an option but it actually goes faster over-revving it to 6200 through the traps.


I have a NOS brand 125 plate kit I'm going to run in the spring with a freshened motor and tubeless slicks.


Do you run it on the street? If so try a set of sportsman pro's and run them tubeless. Yes, they work tubeless even though they are a so called tube type tire. They are wrinkle wall and a drag slick compound. with 19psi my car cuts 1.70 short times. It's nice to have one tire do it all.


I have never had experience with nitrous before hand, so to be safe I think ill retard the timing from 35* total to 30*, and go through my carb too.

How do you plan to retard it?

I was not planning on running a stand alone fuel system for it, just tapping into the 110 from my cell. I have a high flow mechanical pump now, rated at 125 gph. I will be adding a holley electrical pump for added insurance, and I think around 14 psi of fuel pressure of the line.

I don't get why you'd run 2 pumps that are 2 different styles. One electric that will do the job seems more logical to me. OR a 2nd line from the same tank on it's own pump would also work. If you are going to run both off one line it better be big #10 with a pump that has a #10 inlet outlet like an A1000.

car traps now at 5200 going through at 116.4. im hoping I can spray without over revving through the trap. I run 3.55 gears now but have a set of 3.23s if testing proves that I need less gear.

What worries you about turning a little more RPM? Where it makes power or do you think it won't stay together
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Good luck with your NOs build
 
74slnt6 said:
and I think around 14 psi of fuel pressure of the line.
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That is way too much fuel pressure. Most "wet" carb nitrous system are rated for between 5 and 6.5 lbs FP. and you want it steady the whole run.

It is possible to run 14 psi FP, but you will need to run a much smaller fuel jet.
If running 5psi fp, 950 n2o pres, for 125 hp you would need approx .053 nitrous jet and .051 fuel jet. if you increase fuel pressure to 14psi, you would need a .040 fuel jet.
Time to do a little more studying on nitrous systems.
 
my kit is a wet shot, where i was planning to use a secondary regulator spliced in before the carb feeding regulator to run the higher pounds to the solenoid. carb will maintain 8 psi for the pass. Is there another way to set this up better? I figured that would be a decent way to do since the plate has its own jets for the fuel/NOS and i have always read to keep pressure feed steady and constant at high flow rates to the fuel feed solenoid, which is why i was going to run the electric pump as well. I will do some more research on that before I do anything

The combo is set up to make lots of low end torque, and I've always had luck running to 5500. I did that to maintain engine life. I was also planning on a mechanical timing retard, since nitrous will be solely for 1/4 mile passes.

I am going to do lots more research before I do any spraying of course. I am still learning about it. thanks for the input though guys. even though this thread is 4 years old its a lot more relevant now
 
I am running a fogger system. I have twin inline FI pumps,capable of 50 gph at 50 psi. They are in parrallel, in case one pump fails, the other can still carry the system alone. The pumps feed a return flow regulator set for 15 psi. That regulator feeds two Holley style regulators. One for the carb set at 5psi, and the other for the nitrous system set for 5-6.5 (varies for tuning purposes). I normally run about 5psi FP and 950 nitrous pressure. Since I am in Florida, and it is usually pretty warm, keeping the bottle pressure down, is harder then keeping it up. Since I have a fogger and it takes awhile to change all those jets, if my bottle pressure starts geting high (I have run as high as 1150 psi), I can just increase the fuel pressure to compensate. Of course I have to change my dial in, also.
 
crackedback said:
Here are a couple of sites to help with jet sizing.

http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/Scripts/Jet_calculator/nitrousjetcalc.asp

The n2o solenoid will want less pressure than the carb in almost every case with a reasonable jet spread. A regulator for the carb and separate regulator for your juice unit fuel solenoid is the best approach.
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Just checked out the Dynotune site. Seems that calculator is high on crack! Lol

The Jets it calculates seem way small for the HP it says the tune is.
 
74slnt6 said:
I was also planning on a mechanical timing retard, since nitrous will be solely for 1/4 mile passes.
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I'd get yourself a MSD digital 6 box or the like. Easy to micro adjust and I wouldn't want to retard my timing all the time. When you are off the bottle, leaving the line, doing a burnout. I's want that engine running at optimal tune. It would also prevent you from having to change anything when you head to the strip.
 
Wow all exciting learning all of this lol my son is dropping in a 77 440 in a 66 barracuda it has torquer2 intake 780 vac sec carb 1.5 roller rockers and a 468/488 lift cam and 292/302 duration it's a rebuilt he done himself and he's autistic it's a stock compression he pocket ported the heads and got high perf valve springs and assembled with 020 steel shim head gaskets anyways I know the horse power will be increased alittle but will that motor handle a 200 shot of nos of course all new bearings and pistons and rings all new not looking to be a race car just a good running school car for him is there anyway of knowing an approx horsepower he will be running without nos
 
Personally, if it were me, I would forget about the nitrous at this point. A 440 in that car, as a street driver will be a handfull just the way it is. If he/you havn't done it yet, upgrade the brakes and suspension. The 440 adds a fair amount of front weight. It will also have tons more torque, and will have traction problems. With nitrous it will most likely need mods to the wheel wells, to get a large enough tire on it. I have no idea of your sons driving ability. Let him get use to the car as it is. As a "street" car there is limited opertunity for nitrous use.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Personally, if it were me, I would forget about the nitrous at this point. A 440 in that car, as a street driver will be a handfull just the way it is. If he/you havn't done it yet, upgrade the brakes and suspension. The 440 adds a fair amount of front weight. It will also have tons more torque, and will have traction problems. With nitrous it will most likely need mods to the wheel wells, to get a large enough tire on it. I have no idea of your sons driving ability. Let him get use to the car as it is. As a "street" car there is limited nity for nitrous use.
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The 6 cylinder weight is 525 complete and the 440 all stock and complete weighs 675 but we removed the heavy intake and waterpump and heavy exhaust manifolds just that much weight removed is a big difference the intake and waterpump and housing is all aluminum and of course it will have some type of headers so I'm hoping it the weight difference isn't much more
 
What I was concerned with was approx horsepower Lord knows what it was stock but with the cam and intake and carb change and headers added maybe with the pocket ported heads it's making a little more it's a 77 Dodge 440 out of a motor home and has a set of 452 casting heads which have been reworked we raised compression alittle and also went with 020 steel shim head gaskets Are we still talking about around 300 HP that's why I was considering the 200 shot of nos doing all this work to build this motor and stuffing it in that car really wasn't worth the time if the horsepower is in the 300s
 
bOb shingler said:
I think that head gasket will be the first thing to go. the good felpro 2009 will hold the 200 shot.
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I went with the steel shim head gaskets to help raise the compression a little since for some reason the 77 440 wasn't a good compression motor even the new pistons are still way below the deck but it's supost to be anywhere between 8.5 to 9.0 compression with the new pistons hoping 9.0 with these head gaskets and hoping the cam and other accessory's wake this motor up I'm still wondering an approx horsepower thisotor will put out without the nos
 
bOb shingler said:
I think that head gasket will be the first thing to go. the good felpro 2009 will hold the 200 shot.
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Head gasket should not be a problem. 200 shot on a 440 is only .45hp per cube. I was spraying 225 shot on a 170 slant six (1.32hp per cube) with the stock steel shim gasket, and 10.-1 CR.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Head gasket should not be a problem. 200 shot on a 440 is only .45hp per cube. I was spraying 225 shot on a 170 slant six (1.32hp per cube) with the stock steel shim gasket, and 10.-1 CR.
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Thanks for info I'm hoping someone can tell me approx horsepower this motor will put out before nos
 
autistic baracuda said:
Thanks for info I'm hoping someone can tell me approx horsepower this motor will put out before nos
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Now replacing rear diff was told Ford ranger was direct replacement so bought one on line found out that leaf spring perches are on top of axle housings and not below like my 66 barracuda and shock mounts are for forward and behind of axle housings not like 66 barracuda where there inline with axle housings just set at angles does anyone know of a diff that is avail and will fit without alot of modifications
 
"A" body 8 3/4
8 inch Ford, from early mustang/comet (and some others) V-8, with 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern axles
"A" body 8 1/4
These three do not require much in the way of mods.
Also Ford (I think explorer), does need to have one side of housing shortened, and use two of the short side axles. Most have disc brakes and limited slip diff.
 
Charrlie_S said:
"A" body 8 3/4
8 inch Ford, from early mustang/comet (and some others) V-8, with 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern axles
"A" body 8 1/4
These three do not require much in the way of mods.
Also Ford (I think explorer), does need to have one side of housing shortened, and use two of the short side axles. Most have disc brakes and limited slip diff.
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This ranger rear diff with the spring perches on top of the axle housing and with how low the rear of the vehicle actually is with stock diff putting the ranger rear diff would raise it approx 3 inches which truly needs to be raised to be able to have nice wheels on it but was concerned with pinion offset if raised in rear would that 8.8 ranger rear diff still be an issue I know if in stock ride height now it would hit the drive line tunnel I only wish I knew someone why has tried this
 
autistic baracuda said:
Thanks for info I'm hoping someone can tell me approx horsepower this motor will put out before nos
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I have a 1975 440. No bottle. Edelbrock 800 and Performer dual plane intake, headers, X-pipe cross-over, 6 pack cam, stock heads. Going on dyno tomorrow. I am running mine on Rec 90 (90 octane ethanol free). Runs great. No ping. 20* initial. 36* all in at 2,200. I mostly show the car locally... with an occasional A to B. PM me here after tomorrow and I'll tell you what it did if you are still interested.
 
autistic baracuda said:
This ranger rear diff with the spring perches on top of the axle housing and with how low the rear of the vehicle actually is with stock diff putting the ranger rear diff would raise it approx 3 inches which truly needs to be raised to be able to have nice wheels on it but was concerned with pinion offset if raised in rear would that 8.8 ranger rear diff still be an issue I know if in stock ride height now it would hit the drive line tunnel I only wish I knew someone why has tried this
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You don't want that rear under the leaves, that is a perscription for spring wind-up and excess axle motion under torque, pinion angle is something You should be
checking and probably correcting with anything not stock.........springs....rearend.....or both.
 
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