1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

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Pitchers as promised. Wire brushed the heck out of everything good. Then went over it with......you guessed it......Rustoleum. LOL Inside and out. Next I will make necessary repairs and another coat of my beloved Rustoleum. Once fixed, it will outlast me and "whoever" ends up with it next.

VALIANT PINCH WELD.jpg

VALIANT PINCH WELD1.jpg

VALIANT PINCH WELD2.jpg
 
Twenty minutes out on the heat and I have sweated so that it has ran down into my boots! Someone tol me sweating is good, gets the impurities out of you!???? I must be PURE!
 
barbee6043 said:
Twenty minutes out on the heat and I have sweated so that it has ran down into my boots! Someone tol me sweating is good, gets the impurities out of you!???? I must be PURE!
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I know you're right!
 
RustyRatRod said:
Been toiling with what to do next on the Valiant. So, I bit it off tonight. I went out and started removing the front windshield. There were a few swollen spots in the gasket at the top, indicating leaks. Also, when I rolled one of those spots back, rust would fall out. So, I knew it needed attention. Of course, 55 year old glass is fragile, needless to say. Yup, I cracked it. I kinda knew I would. It's just really difficult not to with one that's been in so long. Got it out and the pinch weld.....while has some damage, is not as bad as I thought. Extremely repairable. Pictures in a bit. I just hope a windshield isn't hard to find. lol
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Guy we bought Kim’s 66 from has a new windshield in it so it can’t be too hard to find one. I could use one in my 66, it’s getting fogged in the bottom corners and a bit scratched up...never noticed it so much till I drive her car with a new one.
 
66340SEDAN said:
Guy we bought Kim’s 66 from has a new windshield in it so it can’t be too hard to find one. I could use one in my 66, it’s getting fogged in the bottom corners and a bit scratched up...never noticed it so much till I drive her car with a new one.
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Keith, it was like it wanted to break. I stuck my FINGER between the body and windshield and rolled it out to get it started out after I cut ALL the gasket away from it and it cracked. lol So far, I've had no luck, but I haven't tried very hard, either. Besides, I'm not quite ready for one anyway. I have a bit of work to do now that I have it out. I bout knew it would break. I've done a lot of these through the years and most anything over 30 years old with a gasket almost always breaks coming out. Funny, the GM stuff held in by the adhesive roll stuff I can get out almost every single time unbroken. The little car's worth new front glass anyway. Hopefully I can beat the odds and get the rear out in one piece, because it has to come out, too. lol
 
I took a bit of a break from the car but I got back on it tonight. Ground all the seam sealer out of the drip rail on the passenger's side and to my surprise, there was zero rust underneath. Degreased it good and went over it with one coat of black Rustoleum. Going to let that dry, go over it with one more coat and then top that off with new seam sealer. Will have some pitchers in a bit.
 
Pitchers of the drip rail progress. You can see how the old stuff is cracked all up on the driver's side. I think I have found a good product. Time will tell. It's a brushable seam sealer made by Dominion. So far, it's worked very well and what I like about it is, it doesn't dry hard. It dries similar to a silicone sealer, but it's a lot tougher. It's paintable, of course. In these pitchers, I haven't applied the seam sealer yet, because the paint is still wet. After it dries, I'll apply the sealer and take more pitchers.

DRIP RAIL.jpg

DRIP RAIL1.jpg

DRIP RAIL2.jpg

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That looks good! I have alot of work to do in that area too! Mine is all cracked and chipped up around the windshield piller. And the sail piller.
 
RRR if it doesn't dry hard will that cause a problem when you go to sand the car, in other words will dust particles and such stick to it? I'm just wondering if one would normally want to apply that right before final paint as in when primer body work ECT. has already been done, or if there is a better reason to do it now?
 
A408Cuda said:
RRR if it doesn't dry hard will that cause a problem when you go to sand the car, in other words will dust particles and such stick to it? I'm just wondering if one would normally want to apply that right before final paint as in when primer body work ECT. has already been done, or if there is a better reason to do it now?
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Naw. I've already experienced that with the floorpans. I let the sealer cure completely first, went back and blew it off good and any dust that had kicked up off the floor blew right off it. It dries similar to silicone. It dries all the way. It's not sticky, but it's flexible......if that made sense.
 
I thought I was gonna get the sealer on the passenger's side tonight, but the humidity is pretty high and it's takin a bit longer for the paint to dry. So I'll apply it tomorrow and post more pitchers. Later this week, more KilMat will be here and I'll finish the trunk.
 
Caint stand "watchin paint dry, so I ground all the sealer out of the driver's side and found it just as rust free. Put one coat of paint on it so I will be that much "farther ahead" tomorrow. Oh wait, it is tomorrow. lol
 
Automotive seam sealer is always expensive. For some places, NOT drip rail, you would be surprised ho well asphalt shingle roof repair caulk does.
 
the asphalt shingle type sealant was as close a match to any style sealer I could find when doing the small bit of floor repair and resealing of the seams in my 54 Savoy. It is so easy to apply, stink like heck till it skins over....once it skins over the odor dissipates and I never know it is there. I am currently working my 62 Dodge and the sealant in there seems to be identical to this also. As for the drip rails and as found often found cracks at roll pans etc, I still like to flash these with just enough heat to pop scale rust, acid etch till clean and then prime, once primed I will repair the seal with POR15 patch putty. This stuff expands similar to the properties of Gorilla wood glue, so little goes a long ways...when smoothed out...and sanded, primers adhere very well.
 
Glad I am not the only guy using the asphalt sealant!!!! I have used it for several years and on multiple cars, works for me!!!!!! I guess if had a high end kind of RARE car I would pay out the nose for auto seam sealer, but on floors it suits me fine.
 
on these older cars, seam sealer is not the product to use UNLESS you are stripping the entire body seams of the old stuff, then you could come back with 3M or equiv sealer..but then again, if you are doing an inner panel and carpet or mat will be on top...who is to know...again this would be more in line to total product change..
 
bigaadams said:
on these older cars, seam sealer is not the product to use UNLESS you are stripping the entire body seams of the old stuff, then you could come back with 3M or equiv sealer..but then again, if you are doing an inner panel and carpet or mat will be on top...who is to know...again this would be more in line to total product change..
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I am. I am srtipping every single bit of seam sealer and grinding the seams to bare metal. So seam sealer is what I need.
 
that is involved, I am currently destroying cutting discs as I remove rusted sections of my 62 and burning up a number of copper clad weld rods...trunk floor repairs in progress right now, uncovered some frame cross tie damage that I am repairing that requires even deeper repair on the trunk extensions, they were getting rot cut out and new metal welded in anyway...just a little sooner than I planned.....it is an ever increasing work load working these old bodies. good luck with your project....hoping to have the trunk pretty much squared away in the next day or so. I like coffee breaks...
 
I am somewhat dismayed. At some point in time, the little car has either been hit hard on both sides, from the rear, OR has had extensive rust repair to both rear quarters. I'm going forward and am going to repair it, but had I known the car needed all it's needed thus far, that would have been the deciding factor in purchasing it. Certainly no fault of the seller, he had no idea. Who could have? I will say one thing. The repair work was done surprisingly well, though, so I think I have a solid foundation to work from, still. I'll post some pictures either later tonight or tomorrow. I have come down with something and don't feel good.......on top of the don't feel good about the car. But as Kitty said, "you've already fixed the worst of it with the floor pans" and she's right. I have great ability to do metal work but I HATE IT with a passion. Wouldn't you know I have a lot ahead of me. At least way more than what I wanted. The good news is though I "just knew" there was rust around the bottom of both rear window corners. There's not any around the bottom right corner. The driver's side is a different story. So that's less than I thought it had. Pictures forthcoming.
 
Here's what I've found "so far". As you can see, I have some work to do. It could be worse, I guess. The right side so far was done professionally. The left side so far, not so much. lol

RIGHT BOTTOM WINDOW CORNER.jpg
RIGHT QUARTER SEAM.jpg
RIGHT QUARTER DAMAGE.jpg
LEFT QUARTER SEAM1.jpg
LEFT QUARTER SEAM.jpg
LEFT BOTTOM WINDOW CORNER.jpg
 
Oh dang. You got some work cut out for you know! It wont be no problem for you tho.
 
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