1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

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The car will be real close to if not bare metal. It's gonna be a frikkin chore to get it there too. There is filler at the bottom corners of the rear window that I need to get out and see how much damage is there and repair. There is a little filler at the bottom of the sail panels. Of course, there;s the outer wheel house on the driver's side that has to be cut out and replaced. Car still has some work to be done, even with the floors repaired. I'll put it this way. I am going to get the car down to a place where I feel comfortable getting all the repair work done and coming back with an epoxy primer on everything. Whether that's bare metal or "close" I won't know till I get there.
 
I have a 71 duster I picked up couple years ago with original paint. The hood, roof ,and trunk lid needed to go to bare metal. No problem. I rest of the car , the original primer and the paint, that stuff is tough, and on there !!!! I applied epoxy primer and did the door dings, and I have no problem with that original primer/paint being left, but this car is the exception by far.
You have plenty to do before you buy paints. Like mentioned here by lots of guys, SP has good stuff. I don't think they sell topcoats just primer. I have used all products from TCP Global with good results as with Omi ( PPG second line) topcoats.
I also agree with driving the dart to the local PPG and have them scan it and give you a price just to know and be able to color match.
I admit I have never tried Summit paint products, they get it furnished from someone, be interesting to know who.
I always try to compare quality and price to everything as I can not just afford to go buy the best of whatever!!!
 
barbee6043 said:
I have a 71 duster I picked up couple years ago with original paint. The hood, roof ,and trunk lid needed to go to bare metal. No problem. I rest of the car , the original primer and the paint, that stuff is tough, and on there !!!! I applied epoxy primer and did the door dings, and I have no problem with that original primer/paint being left, but this car is the exception by far.
You have plenty to do before you buy paints. Like mentioned here by lots of guys, SP has good stuff. I don't think they sell topcoats just primer. I have used all products from TCP Global with good results as with Omi ( PPG second line) topcoats.
I also agree with driving the dart to the local PPG and have them scan it and give you a price just to know and be able to color match.
I admit I have never tried Summit paint products, they get it furnished from someone, be interesting to know who.
I always try to compare quality and price to everything as I can not just afford to go buy the best of whatever!!!
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It's a Valiant, dammit! lol

Thank you for the advice. I appreciate you taking time out of your day! Yeah me and you both on comparing prices. SPraying this thing with the best is just not practical. It's just going to be a driver, but I don't want it to look like *** and I'd like it to last.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's a Valiant, dammit! lol

Thank you for the advice. I appreciate you taking time out of your day! Yeah me and you both on comparing prices. SPraying this thing with the best is just not practical. It's just going to be a driver, but I don't want it to look like *** and I'd like it to last.
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Ha! Hey a valiant is a wanna be dodge!!! lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
I wasn't accusing anyone specifically, Just saying I know it's not the most professional job. It's good though for My resources.

So, what about this? What are your thoughts?

Summit Racing® Single Stage Paints SUM-UP303G
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All kidding aside, something like that is probably what I will choose also. When I get tired of looking at the ratty old paint on my car. Probably best to use an automotive paint you can throw some hardener in. Run-of-the-mill single stage. I'm not scared to roll on some flat black Rust-Oleum on a hood. I don't know if I would really have the balls to do a whole car. But I've seen some guys do amazing stuff with it. BTW the factory red on my Mahindra tractor has held up pretty well.
 
Like mentioned the quality of hardner has a lot to do with shine, durability.

I admit I never buy those real expensive paints, or hardners, just decent stuff and put it under a roof!!!
 
I agree with the spi!! They are awesome. I can't speak about the quality of their products because I haven't used it yet. I placed my order yesterday. I got a quart of epoxy primer with hardener and a quart of their universal clear with hardener. Both mix 1:1 so it's a half a gallon of each for 162 bucks with free shipping. That is extremely affordable considering the price of other products. And their customers service is top notch best of the best. Super helpful and super friendly
 
RRR - I like what you are doing with the car. Looks like a home project that I'd be doing
:thumbsup:
 
moparmandan said:
All kidding aside, something like that is probably what I will choose also. When I get tired of looking at the ratty old paint on my car. Probably best to use an automotive paint you can throw some hardener in. Run-of-the-mill single stage. I'm not scared to roll on some flat black Rust-Oleum on a hood. I don't know if I would really have the balls to do a whole car. But I've seen some guys do amazing stuff with it. BTW the factory red on my Mahindra tractor has held up pretty well.
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I ain't skeered to do the whole thing with Rustoleum......I just don't want it to fade fast. That would PISS me off. LOL
 
The Summit red would be just fine. If you need more than a gallon to get 3 good coats on it, mix all that you buy in one big bucket prior to thinning it and mixing in hardener. That way, it will all be the same color. 2 cans of paint will be 2 different colors if applied separately, and might be enough of a difference to stick out like a sore thumb with red paint. You can also mix a little clear in with the single stage paint to make it hold up. A pro like George Jetts might be able to tell his experience with that. I went back and looked, and the Summit paint is much cheaper than the same amount of single stage red at the SPI link I posted earlier.
 
Is there a Tractor Supply near you? I have used their black tractor paint with the hardner and reducer they sell with great success. It did not dull and has been 3 years since. It laid flat out of the spray gun just like automotive paints I have used.
 
chryslerfat said:
Is there a Tractor Supply near you? I have used their black tractor paint with the hardner and reducer they sell with great success. It did not dull and has been 3 years since. It laid flat out of the spray gun just like automotive paints I have used.
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Well see.....that's what I am going on. Calvin did his whole Duster with Rustoleum and it hasn't faded either. I think it was paint in 2013.

CALVIN'S DUSTER.jpg
 
RustyRatRod said:
I ain't skeered to do the whole thing with Rustoleum......I just don't want it to fade fast. That would PISS me off. LOL
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I painted my dart the first time with tractor implements paint it was cheap (18 a gallon in 2004), it didn't last. It looked really good at first but faded quickly. It looked ok for about 3 years and then started fading. By 8 years old you wipe your hand across it and turn your hand black now 15 years later its transparent you can literally see the primer. I have a before pic somewhere i will have to find it!! But here is a after pic. That being said however I think rustoleum is a much better paint than the 18 dollar tractor paint at tractor supply.

20190527_082538.jpg
 
dartfreak75 said:
I painted my dart the first time with tractor implements paint it was cheap (18 a gallon in 2004), it didn't last. It looked really good at first but faded quickly. It looked ok for about 3 years and then started fading. By 8 years old you wipe your hand across it and turn your hand black now 15 years later its transparent you can literally see the primer. I have a before pic somewhere i will have to find it!! But here is a after pic. That being said however I think rustoleum is a much better paint than the 18 dollar tractor paint at tractor supply.

View attachment 1715342405
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Just wondering if you used hardner with it. I did with the van I painted and that may be the difference.
 
I do believe that rustoleum is a much better paint tho. I used that majic paint or whatever it is at tractor supply and I didnt use a hardener (it called for it). I sprayed my suspension stuff with rustoleum and it sprayed much better and looked alot better right off the bat.
 
barbee6043 said:
I have a 71 duster I picked up couple years ago with original paint. The hood, roof ,and trunk lid needed to go to bare metal. No problem. I rest of the car , the original primer and the paint, that stuff is tough, and on there !!!! I applied epoxy primer and did the door dings, and I have no problem with that original primer/paint being left, but this car is the exception by far.
You have plenty to do before you buy paints. Like mentioned here by lots of guys, SP has good stuff. I don't think they sell topcoats just primer. I have used all products from TCP Global with good results as with Omi ( PPG second line) topcoats.
I also agree with driving the dart to the local PPG and have them scan it and give you a price just to know and be able to color match.
I admit I have never tried Summit paint products, they get it furnished from someone, be interesting to know who.
I always try to compare quality and price to everything as I can not just afford to go buy the best of whatever!!!
Click to expand...
The Summit paint is made by Kirker.
 
I can chime in on the Rustoleum paints. I shot my kmember, rear end and various suspension pieces with their gloss black. I thinned with acetone, per the instructions on the CAN.

They turned out incredible, although I can speak to durability, because the car isn't finished yet, but parts still look great.

A few before and afters.

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20170929_174041.jpg
 
sireland67 said:
Rusty that is the exact paint I used on my Willys.
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Can you get me some more pictures of it. Like maybe in the sunlight? It looks like where it is it has too much pink in it. Wouldn't mind seein it in more natural light. I caint have no pink car.
 
my newest Plymouth is a 1954 Savoy Club Coupe...and it has a bigger engine than the toad came with....albeit it has a flat top style hairdo with six spikes...I kinda favor the styling cues of the Dodge...
 
George Jets said:
It's a can of worms . . Alkyd enamel is synthetic enamel, these people are sales people wanting to sell you their product, if it had the good hardener in it, it would be cured solid in the can by the time you got it home. We already heard the guy that sprayed it with the acetone and no hardener and took forever to dry, not for me . . .

I really don't like the idea of putting Tractor Paint on as a car finish. Your car is a valuable asset and worthy of some good paint, and it's a Mopar.
If I was buying a classic and the choice was between 2 comparable cars the only difference being one has Tractor Paint as a finish and the other either has Acrylic Enamel, Acrylic Urethane, or BaseCoat/ Clear Coat, I would go with the second choice every time. No Offense but just saying that the car has tractor paint on it makes a person wonder how many other corners were cut on the car.

Kind of between a rock and a hard spot, 200 dollars for cheep price paint or spend the 1,000 and get a finish that commands value. If I had a 401K I would be tapping into that to buy the good paint. Move some money to your Mopar Hard Asset and put a nice finish on it, you will be happy you did come the day you sell it, and all the time you are out running around using it. BaseCoat/ClearCoat is a very forgiving paint to use and much easier to apply, way less dust gets in it, and the clear coat at the end brings it alive.

Just my opinion, take it for what it's worth. All of my projects are assets and they hold value over time.
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Back in the 80's, Custom shop I worked in was getting tired of Laquer paint clear coat dulling out(eventually,especially cars out in sun a lot) requiring constant buffing.
We started experimenting on engine compartments, laquer base color,with acrylic enamel w/hardener clearcoat. Tough as nails and held its shine.

Just thought to bring up for a economical possibility to use over a "dried" rustoleum….? Just an idea......
 
RustyRatRod said:
Can you get me some more pictures of it. Like maybe in the sunlight? It looks like where it is it has too much pink in it. Wouldn't mind seein it in more natural light. I caint have no pink car.
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Here is a pic of it in the sunlight, it is kinda a tomato red.
Summit does sell a Viper Red, which I think is brighter.

AnMeJ3.jpg


Umof9E.jpg
 
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