1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"

[barbee6043]

Rustoleum Industrial call for acetone as a reducer for spraying. And even with acetone, the stuff dries S-L-O-W.

Maybe a pro bodyman reading will chime in. Back a decades a go I built a lot of cars, and had 2 country bodyshops, that did most of them. One guy did it all, chopped, weld, fab, paint, he told me he used a slower reducer than what would be recommended, we used acrylic urethane. It gave it a wetter look and better shine. I have done the same but I have no idea if it really matters that much or at all??
I figure if JD uses Rustoeum to paint $100,000 tractors they have a good method with it.

I like the old school look of acrylic urethane vs bc/cc. I simply order my top coats and many primers from a and TCP Global. They use old formular PPG and match the old charts no problem,. .. After I spent all that time cutting, welding, sanding, blocking, a couple more $ in materials is not bad for me.
Probably the big thing is if a car can sit under a roof and out of the UV.

 

[George Jets]

Acrylic Urethane is a great choice. For Sure . . .

 

[RustyRatRod]

Talked to Rustoleum this morning. It's not a synthetic enamel. It's a modified alkylide. They said NO hardeners as hardener is already in the formula. Thin with acetone. She said lots of people are painting cars with it and having real good success.......if that's really the case, and I think it is, you can probably look for the price to go up.

 

[George Jets]

It's a can of worms . . Alkyd enamel is synthetic enamel, these people are sales people wanting to sell you their product, if it had the good hardener in it, it would be cured solid in the can by the time you got it home. We already heard the guy that sprayed it with the acetone and no hardener and took forever to dry, not for me . . .

I really don't like the idea of putting Tractor Paint on as a car finish. Your car is a valuable asset and worthy of some good paint, and it's a Mopar.
If I was buying a classic and the choice was between 2 comparable cars the only difference being one has Tractor Paint as a finish and the other either has Acrylic Enamel, Acrylic Urethane, or BaseCoat/ Clear Coat, I would go with the second choice every time. No Offense but just saying that the car has tractor paint on it makes a person wonder how many other corners were cut on the car.

Kind of between a rock and a hard spot, 200 dollars for cheep price paint or spend the 1,000 and get a finish that commands value. If I had a 401K I would be tapping into that to buy the good paint. Move some money to your Mopar Hard Asset and put a nice finish on it, you will be happy you did come the day you sell it, and all the time you are out running around using it. BaseCoat/ClearCoat is a very forgiving paint to use and much easier to apply, way less dust gets in it, and the clear coat at the end brings it alive.

Just my opinion, take it for what it's worth. All of my projects are assets and they hold value over time.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well, find me a single stage enamel (that's what I want) that's just as red and won't put me in the poor house. I'm not after the wet look with bb/cc. I want "about" the shine the car had new, which "ain't a whole lot" compared to bc/cc. I just don't like an older car that has "that much" shine. I've looked at all the reds (I think) that Summit has and nothing comes close. I LIKE this bright red. And in the end, if it's prepped and applied right, how does the paint know what it's on? I just keep going back to Calvin's (@clhyer ) car and looking at how well it turned out. It's a NICE car and the paint work is very good, even up close. I would love to spray the car with 300 dollar a gallon paint. I just don't have it. And tapping into my 401K for a car? Yeah, that's not gonna happen. lol Don't get me wrong, I'd love to, and I might if I was 20 years younger, but I'm not.

...and I've seen some fantastic paint jobs on new John Deere tractors. lol

If you're sure about the hardener, I'll probably use it. It makes sense anyway. I can always mix a small a mount and test it.

 

[Rustyfish]

Nothing wrong with spraying a couple test panels not on the Valiant with different mixes. Sounds like the stuff is cheap enough to experiment. I learned on the old PPG deltron stuff, it's reliable, repeatable, and proven. But you have to pay a little for stuff like that. My '66 Barracuda I'd like to return to close to original and Eastwood has a single stage intermix close to the ruby red metallic it was off the line so I'll probably give that a go. Not too pricey either.

 

[George Jets]

If you are sold on the rustoleum safety red color, my best recommendation for that is to use the John Deere Fast Dry Thinner, Use the 5star Hardener, along with their paint. IMO that is going to give you the best finish with the rustoleum products.

Red Paint is the most expensive color ever, if you are going with the single stage enamels, you need their proper hardeners, and reducers to go with them too, product specific stuff. You are going to be right at 500.00 as a starting point for the single stage paint system in red.

Lots of things to do to the car yet, can get the body work done, get it in full primer and see where you are at at that time.

 

[George Jets]

Just sprayed this Radiator sides and tanks for the D100 today using:

John Deere "Blitz Black" Synthetic Enamel
5132 5star Xtreme Synthetic Hardener
John Deere TY25650 Paint Thinner (for use with synthetic enamel)

Use this combination all the time for under carridges, frames, hard parts.
Holds up good, dries real fast, and is 50.00 per gallon at John Deere.
Medum Gloss and High Gloss too.

All these chemicals are compatible with no ill effects, and do a great job.
Hardens up like Jello when you pour it out of your spray gun into a can.
Continues to get pretty hard and sets up solid after a week.

Here is some first hand true to life experience on the Synthetic Enamel Products . . .
Come to think of it John Deere has a Red Synthetic Enamel they can order in too.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you are sold on the rustoleum safety red color, my best recommendation for that is to use the John Deere Fast Dry Thinner, Use the 5star Hardener, along with their paint. IMO that is going to give you the best finish with the rustoleum products.

Red Paint is the most expensive color ever, if you are going with the single stage enamels, you need their proper hardeners, and reducers to go with them too, product specific stuff. You are going to be right at 500.00 as a starting point for the single stage paint system in red.

Lots of things to do to the car yet, can get the body work done, get it in full primer and see where you are at at that time.

Yeah it's not like I am going to be spraying it tomorrow. If you think that's the best way to go, that's what I'll do. I can get the hardner and the reducer now.

....and get this. This is the story of my life. Bout a year ago, the transmission went out on Kitty's car. 04 Ford Escape, 3.0, 4x4. So, since the alternator (and a BUNCH of other stuff) had to come out, I elected to replace the alternator at that time. Look it up. It's a JOB in and of itself. Drive axle has to come out, sub frame has to be dropped.....blah blah blah.........so now the alternator is out AGAIN. We BARELY made it back home. lol It is still under warranty, but I am going to have to pay the guy to do it again since I supplied the part, since I was workin at O'Reilly at the time. Dammit all. LOL

 

[Princess Valiant]

If you are sold on the rustoleum safety red color, my best recommendation for that is to use the John Deere Fast Dry Thinner, Use the 5star Hardener, along with their paint. IMO that is going to give you the best finish with the rustoleum products.

Red Paint is the most expensive color ever, if you are going with the single stage enamels, you need their proper hardeners, and reducers to go with them too, product specific stuff. You are going to be right at 500.00 as a starting point for the single stage paint system in red.

Lots of things to do to the car yet, can get the body work done, get it in full primer and see where you are at at that time.

$500. !!!!! I need to go paint shopping with you.

I have accepted $1000. As the minimum starting point to get any old car into decent to nice paint.

Last time I painted a car, I was right about $1600. Into materials but looking back I used an overkill paint system.

I have had good luck with PPG omni but that is going to run close to the 1k mark

 

[George Jets]

$500. !!!!! I need to go paint shopping with you.

I have accepted $1000. As the minimum starting point to get any old car into decent to nice paint.

Last time I painted a car, I was right about $1600. Into materials but looking back I used an overkill paint system.

I have had good luck with PPG omni but that is going to run close to the 1k mark

Yes agree and like the PPG Omni Paint, if you are going single stage I like to use the expensive DXR-80 Hardener 120.00 a pint but this is the trick to get the Omni single stage to hold a good shine. Considering all the work that goes into the paint job I am not going on the Cheep with the hardener, Omni has their own hardener about half the price but half the perfomance too (have used it). When it comes to holding a shine and helping to cover over fine surface sand scratches DXR-80 outperforms the Omni Hardener. The DXR-80 Buffs out better too if you need to get the dirt out of it.

Thanks RainyDayAuto . . .

Here is a pic of the Omni Single Stage using the DXR-80 Hardener
on the D100 front filler panel for the truck.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Worked on the trunk a little tonight. Found some pinholes in two of the rolled strengthening beads, so I have those to fix. I'm just going to make a fiberglass "sammich" and fill um in. I'll take pictures....or Kitty will. Got it pretty much cleaned up. Redid the bad seam sealer. I'll get the pinholes repaired and go over the whole thing with mineral spirits let that dry good then paint it. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. It was hot today and I'm beat.

 

[sireland67]

Yeah but it ain't red enough. I've look through their reds and didn't see one that I thought was compatible.

If you can pony up a few bucks, PPG has a camera that will take pictures of any color paint, and match it.
Shoot the red tractor paint on a piece of sheet-metal, and they can match it in single stage or BC/CC no charge.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you can pony up a few bucks, PPG has a camera that will take pictures of any color paint, and match it.
Shoot the red tractor paint on a piece of sheet-metal, and they can match it in single stage or BC/CC no charge.

I'm sure I have some more in the budget for some "better" paint.......but HOW MUCH MORE will it be? Do you know? I need to see if there are any PPG dealers in my area. I'm sure there are.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah, there's actually a PPG paint store in Macon. I may give them a shout tomorrow.

 

[sireland67]

Yeah, there's actually a PPG paint store in Macon. I may give them a shout tomorrow.

I am doing my best to keep you from using tractor paint on the exterior of the car, plus at least if the jobber takes the time to match the paint up, and price it to you, at least buy a couple rolls of tape or something you will consume to make it worth their time.
Also if you buy the paint ask for strainers, sticks and paint cups, they get that stuff free from PPG, and you will need it.
I painted PPG for around 20 years, way better company than Dupont to deal with.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I am doing my best to keep you from using tractor paint on the exterior of the car, plus at least if the jobber takes the time to match the paint up, and price it to you, at least buy a couple rolls of tape or something you will consume to make it worth their time.
Also if you buy the paint ask for strainers, sticks and paint cups, they get that stuff free from PPG, and you will need it.
I painted PPG for around 20 years, way better company than Dupont to deal with.

...and I want to paint it with "somethin better". I know some of yall are snickerin in the background about my work and that's ok. I know it's far from "the right way" but it's "what I can afford". And if I cannot afford the PPG, it's gonna be tractor paint. The upshot of it is, I'm not in a hurry. I can save up if need be. I have a long way to to before I grab a sprayer.

 

[sireland67]

...and I want to paint it with "somethin better". I know some of yall are snickerin in the background about my work and that's ok. I know it's far from "the right way" but it's "what I can afford". And if I cannot afford the PPG, it's gonna be tractor paint. The upshot of it is, I'm not in a hurry. I can save up if need be. I have a long way to to before I grab a sprayer.

I am not snickering at all, I just want you to have a nice car in the end.
Your work is fine, just stay away from the tractor paint on exterior surfaces, it goes flat quick, the reason it is cheap, it is not the old lead based paint your grand father used.
Stick to a modern urethane. Single stage will give you the slight orange peel you are looking for.

 

[moparmandan]

You know I ain't snickering. You've seen my build. Frankly I think your spending to much time thinking about paint. Lol
A high school buddy used to say that pretty **** is for the California boys.
Goes flat? Now I'm listening.......

 

[RustyRatRod]

I am not snickering at all, I just want you to have a nice car in the end.
Your work is fine, just stay away from the tractor paint on exterior surfaces, it goes flat quick, the reason it is cheap, it is not the old lead based paint your grand father used.
Stick to a modern urethane. Single stage will give you the slight orange peel you are looking for.

I wasn't accusing anyone specifically, Just saying I know it's not the most professional job. It's good though for My resources.

So, what about this? What are your thoughts?

Summit Racing® Single Stage Paints SUM-UP303G

 

[RustyRatRod]

Got one coat on some of the trunk tonight. Really didn't feel like messin with it tonight but I did anyway.

 

[Dartfreak75]

Looking good my friend!!!
Cant wait to see this thing after the exterior is painted! What interior color you gonna do??

 

[JDMopar]

Hey RRR. Check out SPI...Southern Polyurethanes Inc. They are somewhere down in your neck of the woods, and their paint products are top notch at very fair prices. They have a few stock colors that they sell, but I don't think they custom mix. I didn't look when I copied the link below, but I'm pretty sure they have a red single stage polyurethane. If you're close enough to be a walk in customer....you might be able to talk them into mixing it. I have used their epoxy primer, 2K primer, and Universal clear. I love their stuff, and they are great to deal with.

https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

 

[RustyRatRod]

Looking good my friend!!!
Cant wait to see this thing after the exterior is painted! What interior color you gonna do??

I kinda am likin the red I linked to at Summit above. At least it's an automotive paint. It's gonna be somebody's BRIGHT red. lol

 

[barbee6043]

We see lots of discussion of Rustoleum as a top coat. We are all just trying to make our rides as good as we can afford or want.
We see the big shops all say, take it to bare metal, that way they see the old body filler to remove, and their is no problem spraying some uncompatable paints. I get it and they also charge for all that work and material. We know it is big $$.
Question to RRR. Are you taking the dart to bare metal? Will you use a epoxy primer over that? We know the epoxy primer stuff sticks like glue, gives a good base for filler. Any old car needs filler.
My question of Rustoleum for a top coat is, IF after a few years it has lost it shine, and RRR wants a prettier look, can the Rustoleum be simply scuffed or sanded with appropriate grade paper, and sealed ( good idea) and top coated with a acrylic urethane or bc/cc??? I ask this as I know we have several pro bodymen that reads this stuff.
I know some will say , just take this step by step, and use pro paint and primer, but I agree with RRR, sometimes the cost is not on everyone's plate.
OIL based enamel? I well remember my dad cussing when they took lead ot of paint. He swore it was not worth chit anymore!! Back in what the 60's??
I am lke RRR, I do the best I can afford. Might be 100% great, sometimes maybe different. IF I was building a car to sell, it would have to be the best that is reasonable for what it is. Building for me, I am the only one that has to be happy!