Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
That's a good ******* job right there.
1964 Valiant "Get Runnin & Drivin"
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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Thanks! I'm beginning to have a good bit of work in it now. More tomorrow.
Slantsix64
Well-Known Member
Roller paint jobs always turn out decent, heres my 66 rolled with some flat black rustoleom. Car also had an early b body rear end perches just moved a bit.
I have always liked how that turned out. Looks really good. Since I have a decent compressor and gun I plan on spraying mine.......but I have a long way to go yet. I still have to do some rust repair around the wheel well on the left rear quarter and some around the windshield pinch weld. As of not though I have 90% or more of the rust fixed. Feels purdy good too. ;)
Super Nice !
Wow,great progress and it looks great.
You might want to replace your wipers seals while you have the interior out, would hate to get water on your new floor.
Both my 66 and 74 dart need them,just have not done them yet...
You might want to replace your wipers seals while you have the interior out, would hate to get water on your new floor.
Both my 66 and 74 dart need them,just have not done them yet...
I actually have them too. Thanks for the reminder. lol And thanks for the kind words.
Rusty,
Here is the summit single stage red, shot out of the gun, no polish.
It still looks about the same years later.
That looks nice!
Way less work than screwing around with tractor paint.
Yeah but it ain't red enough. I've look through their reds and didn't see one that I thought was compatible.
How about that Acrylic Enamel paint we were talking about with the hardener, single stage that we use for the MOPAR Red engine paint.
PPG Delstar DAR 2296 H
Brite Red
Can be mixed in the less expensive Omni Line by PPG way less money but still need to use the Best hardener so it holds a good shine over the years. Hardener DXR-80
Painted my Dune Buggy with the Red 2296 in 2000 and is still holding a good shine. Nice Color Red
Can plow snow with the buggy too. Lol ...
PPG Delstar DAR 2296 H
Brite Red
Can be mixed in the less expensive Omni Line by PPG way less money but still need to use the Best hardener so it holds a good shine over the years. Hardener DXR-80
Painted my Dune Buggy with the Red 2296 in 2000 and is still holding a good shine. Nice Color Red
Can plow snow with the buggy too. Lol ...
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It looks bright, but hard to tell on just the frame work. I just want a retina burning red. So far, the Rustoleum Safety Red is the brightest I've found.
I believe Rustoleum Safety Red is what they call Synthetic Enamel. You can put a Synthetic Enamel Hardener in it and make it much more durable and holds a shine lots longer.. Dries quicker and and easier to work with. Does not stay wet as long either so less dust gets in it. Don't leave it in your gun overnight as it turns to Jello the next day and continues to harden throughout.
If you run the paint it will set up in a couple days so you can sand the run out. Without the hardener, if you get a run it stays like gum for a month, and if you put it out in the sun too quick it will wrinkle cause it takes a long time to dry it down to the base without the hardener.
All John Deere Green tractors use synthetic enamel from the factory. I have always used the Synthetic Hardener with it. Those are expensive tractors and they want nice finishes put on them, that match too.
The synthetic enamel hardeners are starting to get harder to find, but I still buy the 5132 5star Xtreme Synthetic Hardener on ebay.
Other hardeners are not compatible with synthetic enamel, it will curdled on you if you try.
Dupont had a really good synthetic enamel hardener 77-S, but they discontinued it.
Around 35.00 a pint
As with all auto paints know what you are mixing up, spray a test panel and make sure things come out like you want. You can get a feel how it sprays out of the gun too.
All the new automotive finishes are big bucks, reds are most expensive too.
Crazy Expensive . . .
I prefer the better paints, comes down to what you feel you can spend.
If you run the paint it will set up in a couple days so you can sand the run out. Without the hardener, if you get a run it stays like gum for a month, and if you put it out in the sun too quick it will wrinkle cause it takes a long time to dry it down to the base without the hardener.
All John Deere Green tractors use synthetic enamel from the factory. I have always used the Synthetic Hardener with it. Those are expensive tractors and they want nice finishes put on them, that match too.
The synthetic enamel hardeners are starting to get harder to find, but I still buy the 5132 5star Xtreme Synthetic Hardener on ebay.
Other hardeners are not compatible with synthetic enamel, it will curdled on you if you try.
Dupont had a really good synthetic enamel hardener 77-S, but they discontinued it.
Around 35.00 a pint
As with all auto paints know what you are mixing up, spray a test panel and make sure things come out like you want. You can get a feel how it sprays out of the gun too.
All the new automotive finishes are big bucks, reds are most expensive too.
Crazy Expensive . . .
I prefer the better paints, comes down to what you feel you can spend.
One more piece of the puzzle.
If you are considering Rustoleum Safety Red (Synthetic Enamel) you will want to use a good Reducer/Thinner to thin the paint properly for spraying. Some say use mineral spirits (dries too slow) others say acetone (don't recommend).
John Deere company has one of the best Reducers , as they recommend it to spray their JD Green Synthetic Enamels:
"TY25650 Paint Thinner" for their synthetic enamel paints.
Best price for this particular product too, around 35.00 a gallon. Well worth it to get the proper product to use. Can get it at your Local John Deere Dealer, have them order it in quick if they don't have it on the shelf, can buy it online too and have it shipped to you.
Dupont has a great fast dry reducer for Synthetic Enamel 3812-S, but you will pay at least twice as much for it as the John Deere Paint Thinner.
Best spraying temperature is 70 degrees on low humidity day, at 55-60 degrees gets cool and easier to run the paint, 85 degrees and up things are going to dry up too fast as you are spraying things out leaving dry spots when you get back to where you started spraying. Want to be around only 10% reduction with the reducers/thinners for the synthetic enamels, a little more if it is not atomizing out of your gun enough giving you the Orange Peel look to the paint finish.
Read the Labels for the how to instructions.
I don't recommend using the John Deere TY25650 Paint Thinner or Dupont 3812-S for thinning other automotive finishes as they are not compatible, only use with the Synthetic Enamels.
Want to have things stacked in your favor when doing this auto body painting, anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
If you are considering Rustoleum Safety Red (Synthetic Enamel) you will want to use a good Reducer/Thinner to thin the paint properly for spraying. Some say use mineral spirits (dries too slow) others say acetone (don't recommend).
John Deere company has one of the best Reducers , as they recommend it to spray their JD Green Synthetic Enamels:
"TY25650 Paint Thinner" for their synthetic enamel paints.
Best price for this particular product too, around 35.00 a gallon. Well worth it to get the proper product to use. Can get it at your Local John Deere Dealer, have them order it in quick if they don't have it on the shelf, can buy it online too and have it shipped to you.
Dupont has a great fast dry reducer for Synthetic Enamel 3812-S, but you will pay at least twice as much for it as the John Deere Paint Thinner.
Best spraying temperature is 70 degrees on low humidity day, at 55-60 degrees gets cool and easier to run the paint, 85 degrees and up things are going to dry up too fast as you are spraying things out leaving dry spots when you get back to where you started spraying. Want to be around only 10% reduction with the reducers/thinners for the synthetic enamels, a little more if it is not atomizing out of your gun enough giving you the Orange Peel look to the paint finish.
Read the Labels for the how to instructions.
I don't recommend using the John Deere TY25650 Paint Thinner or Dupont 3812-S for thinning other automotive finishes as they are not compatible, only use with the Synthetic Enamels.
Want to have things stacked in your favor when doing this auto body painting, anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Thanks. I've both read on the Rustoleum site and talked to them and they recommend acetone to thin. Why would you recommend against it?
You will have to test spray it out with the acetone and the 5star hardener and see how it works out. Not sure if Rustoleum even has a hardener for their product, have to ask them. From an auto body / paint point of view, the hardeners give you a finish that you can do so much more with.
Early on in my auto body career I used the Fast Dry Enamel Reducers that worked well for me. I see they are selling the acetone in the auto body sections of the auto parts stores now so give it a try and see if it is going to stay wet long enough and not dry up too fast either. Also see if it is compatible with the 5star synthetic hardener so that it does not curdle on you.
I know the Dupont 3812S and The John Deere TY25650 are compatible with the 5star synthetic hardener and synthetic enamel paints.
It could be the Rustoleum Safety Red is more of an enviro-frendly different mix of the synthetic paints of past, so the acetone may even work better with it, I don't know. Just going to have to do a little trial and error on a test to make sure you have a working combo of chemicals getting the paint on the car.
Go ahead and give the acetone a try on a test spray with the 5star hardener, if no ill effects go ahead and use it. The Thinners, Reducers, and Acetone are vehicles that get the paint from the gun to the substrate, then evaporates away quick to let the paint set up on it's own.
Some companies like Valspar sell a hardener that does not perform as well as the 5start hardener. Just my personal preference, like to stay with a combination that I know works for me. Lots of chemicals going together there, want good results.
In fact it is sometimes the reason that the paints go flat right away with no shine, because of the different chemicals mixed together are not quite right for the product, but still get it on the car. Kind of burns the pigments. This painting stuff is complicated, best to go with what the paint manufacturer recommends. I have been a professional at it, so I know what works for me.
Sounds like the John Deere thinner is the way to go. I don't want to mess this up. Talk about a big mess if I did. Anyway, here's more progress. Got half the roof done tonight. Takin a break and then back to it.
C130 Chief
Mechanical Genius
Rustoleum Industrial call for acetone as a reducer for spraying. And even with acetone, the stuff dries S-L-O-W.
This is what I was kind of thinking with the Acetone. The John Deere Thinner is a fast dry reducer just like the Dupont 3812-S and with the 5star synthetic hardener it dries lots faster than without the hardener.
More good progress, going at it like Gang Busters !
Not really. I laid out yesterday and all of today......we JUST started this about 10:30 our time tonight. LOL I guess for old and wore out, I'm doin ok. Almost got the back half of the roof done now. Takin another break. LOL We'll be done with the roof tonight though. I'm going to probably need two more boxes for the doors, the rear panels and the trunk.
Got the roof DONE!
Sweet, Sweet !
Also, FWIW, I have very little left out of two 36 sq ft boxes, so make SURE to buy more than you think you need! I plan on two more boxes, because I am going to do the doors, rear panels and trunk.......and probably eventually the under side of the hood. It was just a little more stiff tonight, since it wasn't broiling hot. I am going to get out tomorrow when it's really hot and go over it again with the roller to make sure it's set. I am sure that's not necessary, but I'm doin it anyway. lol
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