Great to hear my friend keep up the good work.
Send some pictures when you can.
1965 MMP's Barracuda Hemi swap! The Ever Changing Build
- Thread starter MonkeyMadness
- Start date
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Send some pictures when you can.
Slow going at the moment, it's my silly season at work so I'm stealing the time in the garage when I can. We have made the decision to go bumper less in the front and build custom mesh grill for the lower valance and run an air dam to give it a more road race look to the almost stock front end. I was and still am toying with the though of cutting up the front bumper and making usable nerf bars but we'll see. I scored a pair of front (amber) coronet side markers and installed them in the corner bumper mounts for an awesome almost stock'ish look to it...
Working now on the dash cleaning up my rats nest and doing the finial routing and testing.
Working now on the dash cleaning up my rats nest and doing the finial routing and testing.
Side markets are awesome!
Cley
Cley
So awhile ago i found a thread here about some Air Dam for under $30, and I fell in love with a picture of a hot little early a-body and it's $30 Camaro spliter And now that we have decided to go bumper-less I had to have it!
Here is the link below to the thread and a few pic's of my first (zip tie) mock up.
Awesome A-body air dam for under $30!
Here is the link below to the thread and a few pic's of my first (zip tie) mock up.
Awesome A-body air dam for under $30!
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mopar65
Well-Known Member
Your build is badass. I have a 1965 plymouth valant that I have been thinking about putting my 5.7 stroked 392 hemi into. Mine will be a wannabe race car.lol I am thinking about adding a GT45 turbo to it. My question is what oil pan did you use? The one with the stock k frame.
tried to PM you but your inbox was full.....
as you enter completion, was there enough adjustment in the HDK engine mounts front / back to allow for optimum engine placement..... or would you liked to have the ability the engine either way...front or back?
Thank you for your input,
Denny
as you enter completion, was there enough adjustment in the HDK engine mounts front / back to allow for optimum engine placement..... or would you liked to have the ability the engine either way...front or back?
Thank you for your input,
Denny
I'm using a Milodon oil pan. If fit nicely with the stock K member.
Denny,
I've cleared my PM inbox and will be messaging you back with an answer.
So question on the air dam. Will this force air to the radiator as well as create down force in the nose? I saw this was also used by some on Dart as the V shape is a good match.
Oh man it's been a minute... I'm back and looking forward to working on the Barracuda. I've had a pretty crazy last 6months and it has taken me away from everything, and as I was just slowing down my shop truck 73 d100 "Old Man" decided to **** the bed and broke a motor..... Soo had to source a new 73 318 block but just couldn't leave it well enough alone, so my son and I stroked it to 396 with a CNC-machine stroker kit using scat parts super impressed with it and then swapped it over to automatic, EFI, and custom exhaust then buttoned it all up with a modded big block air cleaner so it looks all stock under the hood ;-)
So that all took some time but now it's been up and running and back to work this last month...
So now I can start back on the neglected barracuda. Every time I see it I feel bad.. ugh and just to gilt me into getting back to it I have uncovered it so now it screams to me ever time I'm in the garage... So hoping to be posting more her soon. I need to just bite the bullit and finish the electrical hell I've flung myself into... its a damn rabbit hole....
So that all took some time but now it's been up and running and back to work this last month...
So now I can start back on the neglected barracuda. Every time I see it I feel bad.. ugh and just to gilt me into getting back to it I have uncovered it so now it screams to me ever time I'm in the garage... So hoping to be posting more her soon. I need to just bite the bullit and finish the electrical hell I've flung myself into... its a damn rabbit hole....
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Not sure what it will do performance or airflow wise, its seems too flimsy to make much of a difference. I wanted to run it because I like the lower look it gives the car "racier" lol
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65barracudaLA
Well-Known Member
As far as I know the main idea behind an air dam is to reduce the amount of turbulence under the car by moving the air around the car instead of under. It's not necessarily pushing the nose down, but it prevents the air under the car to push it upwards.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
They don’t do much for aerodynamics (lift/downforce) unless they are close to the ground. They do help to create a larger, more effective low pressure area behind the grille/radiator which does help in cooling and engine compartment heat. Nice to see you back @MonkeyMadness
Quick update, Electrical is about 80-85'ish percent done. Was running power and testing systems this weekend. radio, light, acc systems, gauge pods and power steering unit. Still need to test all the efi stuff, but need 5gal of high octane/race fuel for the tank to test the pump and fuel system.
Also sourced and installed formed heater hoses, and brake booster hose. Have a set of 6.2 jeep manifolds I thinking of squeezing into place but we'll see lol
Ok so have to pickup new hardware for the intake manifold today. I got a couple gallons of hi-test fuel. Need to test and install injectors then prime and test fuel system for leaks. Cleaned up under the dash last night. Only have a few wire for the efi harness to finish and ground for the gauge pod. Going to rewire my fan and tach system I have mounted in my glove box ( clean up and trim ) need to run power to my center console and a ground for my (Sport mode) button... ooh so fancy 
. Than I can power up the system (efi) and test the brake lights and reverse lights may have to install solenoids for them, just in case I ran two extra grounds and have a setup ready to go in. I'm hoping to have this all finished and a full systems check done this weekend.
Forgot: I need a new heater fan switch the one I have is toast ugh...
. Than I can power up the system (efi) and test the brake lights and reverse lights may have to install solenoids for them, just in case I ran two extra grounds and have a setup ready to go in. I'm hoping to have this all finished and a full systems check done this weekend. Forgot: I need a new heater fan switch the one I have is toast ugh...
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Okay small update: Cleaned and rebuilt my heater fan switch working awesome now! Primed, lubed, tested, and installed the injectors. Added the hi-test fuel to the tank and was able to prime and pressurize the fuel system after finding two small leaks due to loose fittings. Didn't pickup the manifold hardware like I wanted and didn't touch the harness. I got a late start last night, I did buy all new rear tail light and backup light bulbs in LED and installed them for testing.
Plan for tonight is finish the console harness and route the last of the efi harness wires, then maybe test the brake and backup light. The harness and Hemi ecu controls the brake light and backup light from the system and not by separate physical switches which is why we haven't tested them yet. We also couldn't test the system till we had gas in the tank in fear running the pump dry would kill the pump. But now that we're past that hurdle we can complete the efi harness and test all the systems. Super excited...!
Plan for tonight is finish the console harness and route the last of the efi harness wires, then maybe test the brake and backup light. The harness and Hemi ecu controls the brake light and backup light from the system and not by separate physical switches which is why we haven't tested them yet. We also couldn't test the system till we had gas in the tank in fear running the pump dry would kill the pump. But now that we're past that hurdle we can complete the efi harness and test all the systems. Super excited...!
Okay hit a bit of a snag last night, the efi system requires two lines wired into the starter switch one is (start) and the other is (run/start) which this old of a plymouth does not have as an option. So just ordered a couple painless diodes from summit which I'll have tomorrow. These diodes will allow me to bride the gap between the key+ (run) output wire and the Key+ (start) output and supply the efi lean/harness a constant power with key on.
Will do...
DionR
Well-Known Member
Can you elaborate on this a little? I understand how the diodes would work so the run/start leg would only get power when in the key position. What confuses me is why you need it?
I've been working on my plans for my swap using an '09 Challenger PCM and while I don't think it has the wire in the harness and might need to be re-programmed to accept a start signal on a pin rather than over the buss, I think it is workable.
This would mean for me, I need to use a different ignition switch so my blue wire has a constant power and the PCM sees 12v in both run and start/run, and then I only need to feed power to the start signal pin using the yellow wire off my switch. This tells the PCM to start the motor and the PCM grounds the starter relay.
I can't figure out where 2 separate run and run/start circuits come in to this. Are you not using an NGC controller anymore? Maybe I missed something?
I'm using a Bouchillon performance kit with and unlocked 08 Jeep ecu. It's calling for the two wire (start) and (run/start) and I'm guessing its for the same reason my Fitech on my truck needs it. There is an interruption of power between the two keyed positions. I'm guessing the efi system isn't going to work with this interruption and why it needs keyed constant power. !?!
DionR
Well-Known Member
Makes complete sense that the PCM can't see an interruption of power between the 2 key switch positions. Needs to see that the key is on in both or it will not fire the injectors and coils.
I had planned to just tie the brown and blue wires together but there is a moment between the 2 positions where neither has a connection. So I plan to use an F-Body ignition switch since it bolts in and the blue wire is powered in both positions. Requires me to change my plug under the dash or something as the F-Body plug is completely different but I will cross that bridge later.
I wonder if your run/start wire is the one signaling the PCM to ground the starter relay. That's how the '06 diagram I have shows it, there is a wire running to a pin on the PCM that is powered only in the key start position. The '08-10 wiring diagram I have doesn't show a similar wire but I think that is because PCM get's a signal over the CANBus network in those years. The '06 diagram shows it as pin 30 on the c1 connector. Is that where the run/start wire you need to wire up connects?
Do you have the PCM controlling the starter relay?
I can see it working to use the brown wire to power the run/start wire plus the run wire and then use the blue wire to power the run wire but block the run/start leg using the diode. At the same time, the yellow wire could power the run/start circuit while the blue and brown wire could power the run circuit, provided there wasn't a momentary break in the switch where neither blue nor brown is powered as the switch changes position. That would remove the need for a diode, right?
One workaround for the ignition switch dropping the connection between the blue and brown wire is to only use the key to turn the car on and then use a start button that sends power to the C1/30 pin. Nice thing is, if the PCM is controlling the starter relay, there is no danger that the start button will do anything once the motor is running as the PCM will ignore it at that point.
Okay big update for me.
Got everything wired with the exception of the center console. No biggie...
Ran a full systems check and had no issues.
Cycled the system a few times with the same results
With this I am confident enough to close up the dash today. This is huge for me and surprisingly I enjoyed it.
I have to run a few grounding straps for the motor and I want to ad one for the diff just in case. I will be posting a few pictures later.
I found a super easy fix for the efi to key start fix by using a painless diode you can get at summit #80111 that fits our ignition switch perfectly.
It requires you remove the harness plug housing at the switch and plugging them in individual. The
Diode plugs in first at spot A to spot I-S or black wire to brown. You'll want the current to run from brown back to black. Then you'll use 2 female piggy back connector and run the two efi wires needed to black wire position is (run) and brown is (start) next you plug the brown and black wire back into there respective locations and your good to go. You'll now have positive (run) and (run/start) position. This can be used with any efi unit that requires a positive (run/start)
This is the diode I used and it just plugged right in with out issue.
Painless Performance 80111 Painless Performance Replacement Diode Assemblies | Summit Racing
Red= pos constant
Black n (2) blues= Run
Yellow n Brown= Start
Female piggy back connector i used.
This is how my setup with diode add ended up.
Yes my PCM controls the starter relay. No it will not remove the need for the diode. the 65 has a 5 plug starter switch. The red wire is constant +pos power to the switch. When switching to (Acc or Run) power is Only sent to the Black/ Blue wire. When switching to (start) position power is Only supplied to the brown and yellow wires. Without a diode one circuit would not be supplied power while the other is keyed. And the idea of needing a starter switch while still using a key and key switch is just out of the question for me.
Got everything wired with the exception of the center console. No biggie...
Ran a full systems check and had no issues.
Cycled the system a few times with the same results
With this I am confident enough to close up the dash today. This is huge for me and surprisingly I enjoyed it.
I have to run a few grounding straps for the motor and I want to ad one for the diff just in case. I will be posting a few pictures later.
I found a super easy fix for the efi to key start fix by using a painless diode you can get at summit #80111 that fits our ignition switch perfectly.
It requires you remove the harness plug housing at the switch and plugging them in individual. The
Diode plugs in first at spot A to spot I-S or black wire to brown. You'll want the current to run from brown back to black. Then you'll use 2 female piggy back connector and run the two efi wires needed to black wire position is (run) and brown is (start) next you plug the brown and black wire back into there respective locations and your good to go. You'll now have positive (run) and (run/start) position. This can be used with any efi unit that requires a positive (run/start)
This is the diode I used and it just plugged right in with out issue.
Painless Performance 80111 Painless Performance Replacement Diode Assemblies | Summit Racing
Red= pos constant
Black n (2) blues= Run
Yellow n Brown= Start
Female piggy back connector i used.
This is how my setup with diode add ended up.
Yes my PCM controls the starter relay. No it will not remove the need for the diode. the 65 has a 5 plug starter switch. The red wire is constant +pos power to the switch. When switching to (Acc or Run) power is Only sent to the Black/ Blue wire. When switching to (start) position power is Only supplied to the brown and yellow wires. Without a diode one circuit would not be supplied power while the other is keyed. And the idea of needing a starter switch while still using a key and key switch is just out of the question for me.
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DionR
Well-Known Member
Yep, got that.
I guess my thought was if the brown and blue (or black) wire were tied together, any circuits on them would be powered in both run and run/start positions. This only works if the circuits on the brown wire don't care if they are powered all the time, so (in my mind) the brown wire would really only be used to power the circuits that would lose power when in the run/start position. So, the PCM would have key-on power in both key positions, minus any gap in the contacts between the two. Then the yellow wire would be used to tell the PCM that the key is in the start position so it knows to close the starter relay.
To be clear, I'm not knocking what you did, just making sure I am understanding all of this correctly.
You must be feeding key-on power to the PCM through the black wire ACC circuit. I have always thought I would use the blue wire IGN circuit and hadn't thought about using the ACC circuit for key-on power.
So what are you using the yellow S wire for?
I understand that, I don't want a button either. Just tossing it out there.
Oh, and sorry about the F-Body ignition switch reference. I forgot your switch is in the dash.
At the moment I'm not running it, and i can't answer your question about using them in an alternative to using the Diode. I don't know enough to answer it without testing it.
-So got the dash in place and the steering column mounted. I did make a mistake tho.. turns out my lead from my power steering motor to the brain is a few inches short Doh...
Plan for tomorrow is to finish the ebrake/brake lines under the dash, extend the psa leads and test the system, also install the rear taillight housings, and I still need to build a few ground leads I need to install.
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