1966/'69 A100 Twins Build

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Based on help from Mark Cameron and Alan Shrock I have my rear doghouse restored to close to what I believe it was from the factory. Only thing is I don’t have a hole where the screw drivers are pointing for another wire clip. I may have filled it when fixing some rust on this one. This is the QuietRide insulation package.


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Engine harness done, main harness done, backup/neutral safety harness need the 3 prong connector at the transmission to finish. Also mocked up some of the ideas for the engine controls and accessories so I can get hardware ordered to attach it correctly.


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Jim, To get the alternator mounting brackets on the right bolts, make sure that there aren't any bolts that go through any water jackets if those bolts will have to be loosened and tightened occasionally to adjust the fan belt.
 
Jim, I saved this pic from a thread posted on this site. It’s helped me get those bolts back in the right place!

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It’s getting closer. Alternator bearing and diodes pressed on by one buddy (he also had a real MOPAR pulley rather than that Chinese one). Other buddy has the transmission almost (completely?) done. Sucked it up and now this looks like a 60s MOPAR small block. Yes it’s a 69 so it should be corporate blue but that color screams 70s to me. Since it’s an original 225 the story is this is a dealer installed a replacement 408 stroker and they only had a 68 in stock.



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Challenge one of the Blueprint 408 solved. The Magnum Edelbrock intake was made for a true Magnum, not one that is identifying as a LA. I’ll paint the splice clamps black.


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Thanks Bill Allphin for the transmission rebuild. All installed and torqued. The flex plate added the balance so I just need a neutral Hughes converter. The kickdown will be easy. This is a slightly modified set off a 67 Satellite 318/727. Just need to extend the upper rod, add a 340 type tab and return spring to it and drill a hole in the original transmission kickdown arm in the right spot for the geometry. It’s all mounted on the Talley-racker ready to roll under the truck once I get this detail stuff done.



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Well if I was not an idiot and can’t tell the difference between 3/16 and 5/16 on the Jegs site I would have the fuel system plumbed. Anyone need 20 useless 3/16 tubing nuts.

72 340 tubing kit makes 90% of the job done for me.


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Ended up in town today so stopped at NAPA and got the right fuel line nuts. Engine is officially assembled and torqued. Tighten up the manifolds and motor mounts and it’s done. Fuel lines made and installed, all wiring is complete, wire clips installed, mocking up the original kickdown and throttle linkage and I think it will all work! Need to get it in the truck to get the geometry and lengths right but I’m going with this.

Notice the new MOPAR correct width alternator belt (discontinued size long ago). I can’t reveal my source for these belts but the new owner will get the story. You have to be chosen to get these belts by as super nice guy who actually made them. All I can say is these belts were made in the plant that supplied Chrysler over the counter replacement parts back in the day so they are legit for a restoration.



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Stick a fork in it. All that is left is rebuild the starter once the kit comes next week and put the heater hose nipple. Need to customize the throttle and kickdown linkage but that can’t be done till it is back in place and bolted in. Customized four 1968 340 ignition wire brackets that Bill Allphin donated to work all the way around. Hope the doghouse clears. Needed to modify the throttle bell crank bracket as it bolts to the tab on the pre 1970 small block water pump. A plate, some tape, grinder and a welder and it is now for a magnum block.

Thanks to @Johnny Mac and Bluepoint for the 408 and answering my barrage of questions. Magnums (and Bluepoint strokers in particular) are a strange new world.



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Jim Kueneman said:
Stick a fork in it. All that is left is rebuild the starter once the kit comes next week and put the heater hose nipple. Need to customize the throttle and kickdown linkage but that can’t be done till it is back in place and bolted in. Customized four 1968 340 ignition wire brackets that Bill Allphin donated to work all the way around. Hope the doghouse clears. Needed to modify the throttle bell crank bracket as it bolts to the tab on the pre 1970 small block water pump. A plate, some tape, grinder and a welder and it is now for a magnum block.

Thanks to @Johnny Mac and Bluepoint for the 408 and answering my barrage of questions. Magnums (and Bluepoint strokers in particular) are a strange new world.



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I'm extremely impressed with how well you hid the BluePrint 408 under all the OEM equipment. The kickdown linkage, throttle bracket, manifolds, etc. awesome!!! you did a great job!! That magnum hose angle is a little weird. we do put a single hose on it, and it's not my favorite thing, but it's functional. I have some Aluminum BPE magnum/LA hybrid heads on the design board, and they will have the true LA bolt pattern / intake. you handled that great thought. I appreciate the hard work and going with BluePrint!!
 
Johnny Mac said:
I'm extremely impressed with how well you hid the BluePrint 408 under all the OEM equipment. The kickdown linkage, throttle bracket, manifolds, etc. awesome!!! you did a great job!! That magnum hose angle is a little weird. we do put a single hose on it, and it's not my favorite thing, but it's functional. I have some Aluminum BPE magnum/LA hybrid heads on the design board, and they will have the true LA bolt pattern / intake. you handled that great thought. I appreciate the hard work and going with BluePrint!!
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Did you see what I did for that? Shorter nipple, LA bypass hose, 45 degree hose, aluminum connector nipple and 2 Gates heat shrink connectors. No kinks and almost not noticeable.

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Johnny Mac said:
I saw the original modification and post, but I did not see the heat shrink that hides it perfectly!!!!! we have a basic 90 degree napa, but yours fits and looks great!!!!!
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Only thing I don’t like is the steel nipple in the aluminum. I always run distilled water which will help but that is always a long term corrosion possibility.
 
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mygasser said:
could you have it galvanised?
neil.
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Probably could get then coated with something. My money says with distilled water and as little as these get used it will last longer than anyone would care about it. I am talking decades.
 
mygasser said:
also modern anti freeze has corrosion inhibitors in it, so every little helps.
neil.
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Very good point. My comment came from what I saw in the house plumbing industry. 2 metals touching like that will cause issues in a home quickly but that has water with lots of mineral and no inhibitors. Since the days of cast blocks and aluminum heads I would expect they did something in the coolant to help that combo survive. I am probably worrying about nothing now that we have talked it out.
 
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