1966 Valiant Signet Convertible Resto

-
redfastback said:
dave, looks great! how much backspace did you put on the rear wheels? how did you move the rear just 3/4"? a cut and buff still needed? i personally don't like the mounting of the front bars by addco, that 90* l bracket and 1 bolt for a frame mount just doesn't sit well with me, but after you drive it for a awhile, you may invest in a firmfeel.

happy new year, a safe one, and congrats to getting this far in just a short time after you got it back from paint.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

The rear wheels are Stockton TQs small bolt pattern. I had them widened from 15x5.5 to 15x7.5 the backspacing in now 5 inches. They fit perfect with the 10.5/27/15 Hoosier Pro Street radials. Same as a 255/60/15 basically.

I have the Mancini shock mount plates and I was able to drill a pilot hole to match pin on the leaf spring and the extra hole in the spring perches to set it back 3/4". This was the most simple way to do it.

I may eventually pick up the firmfeel unit at the Spring Fling if I don't like the Addco unit. Seems like hillbilly engineering to me. Good thing i only had to drill two 3/8 holes in the the K-frame. No biggy though.
 
does not want to bleed. there is not bleeder valve on the slave. just a braided hose from the bearing to the slave. I may have to jiggle the bearing or crack open the braided line to see if the bore fills. Hopefully the bore/piston in the slave cylinder is okay. I hope get it worked out this week. I have a brake line that is leaking too. Of course it is at a T-piece next to the slave and it's a ***** to get too it now with the headers and all. FOOOOKING little things man. I am not detered though.
 
dave you have come too far i know you wont give up,,,ever watch boyd cottington,,,those cars leak every place,, you only have one,,,,soon you will be the new head cheif at american hot rod,,,,

the hyd bearing has no bleeder ??? self bleeding ??? no bleeder in the bell housing???

happy new year
 
daves66valiant said:
does not want to bleed. there is not bleeder valve on the slave. just a braided hose from the bearing to the slave. I may have to jiggle the bearing or crack open the braided line to see if the bore fills. Hopefully the bore/piston in the slave cylinder is okay. I hope get it worked out this week. I have a brake line that is leaking too. Of course it is at a T-piece next to the slave and it's a ***** to get too it now with the headers and all. FOOOOKING little things man. I am not detered though.
Click to expand...

Hey Dave, did you call Keisler and ask them what happened to the bleeder........or how are you supposed to bleed it? If there is no bleeder can you just add one in the line from the slave to the bearing? There must be something available that you could bolt on between the slave and braided line.
 
Longgone said:
Hey Dave, did you call Keisler and ask them what happened to the bleeder........or how are you supposed to bleed it? If there is no bleeder can you just add one in the line from the slave to the bearing? There must be something available that you could bolt on between the slave and braided line.
Click to expand...

Yeah I talked to Richard at Keisler and I'm working through a solution with him. I don't know of an in-line bleeder that I could add. The way this one is set up the air must bleed through the reservoir. The newer kits have an bleeder like yours. I can't work on it until tomorrow. I'm going to unbolt the slave so I can fix my brake line leak and then see if I can see what's going on with the slave.
 
lookin good man. i replaced a slave on a late model camaro recently and i couldnt get a pedal to save my life. it did have a bleeder at the slave cylinder but the clutch master is not completely horizontal in the firewall, which leads to air pockets. i probably bled it for at least 15 minutes when one of the other guys at my shop suggested simply depressing the clutch and releasing over and over without opening the bleeder. i know it sounds nuts, but it worked.
 
crvtec90 said:
lookin good man. i replaced a slave on a late model camaro recently and i couldnt get a pedal to save my life. it did have a bleeder at the slave cylinder but the clutch master is not completely horizontal in the firewall, which leads to air pockets. i probably bled it for at least 15 minutes when one of the other guys at my shop suggested simply depressing the clutch and releasing over and over without opening the bleeder. i know it sounds nuts, but it worked.
Click to expand...

Yep I finally got a good pedal. i just used a syringe to inject fluid while the pedal was compressed. It worked. That's all that matters
 
YeeHaw..... we are mobile...just barely. I got everything back together and finally let the clutch out for the first time. :burnout: Very slowly out of the garage and then reverse back into the garage.:happy6: I have not installed the steering column yet just in case I have to pull the engine out again for some unforeseen problem.

The throttle is kinda sticky or something because when you mash the pedal it stays at higher rpm and then slowly comes back down to idle rpm. Cable may need some lubricant and some adjustments made to the throttle bracket. Also, it did not do this the last time I started the car up but we have had a lot of rain recently and maybe the added moisture in air has something to do with that, but this is a stretch I think. The carb may need some adjusting as well.

I'm sure I'll get it figured out. It feels really good to finally get this far and see that I've actually done all this work myself. OHHH and of course a little help from my friends here on FABO. Let the good times roll now.:drinkers:
 
awesome dave!! glad you moved it under its own power. it sounds like the throttle needs some spray silicone, or its a loose return spring??
 
Very nice, You should be able to hit the highway in a few months. I may have missed it in your thread, but are you going to install your top yourself?
 
Dodgenut64 said:
Very nice, You should be able to hit the highway in a few months. I may have missed it in your thread, but are you going to install your top yourself?
Click to expand...

I'll have it installed. I have an article on how to do it but I'll leave it to the professionals.
 
dave,return spring,,or vacuum line off...vacuum line off will also make the RPM,S come back down slowly,,
 
Moved the 66 under its own power and backed it back in Congratulations.
Glad everything is moving forward Dave. Sounds like its vidio time.:bball:
 
Well I have not done much on the car in the last month or so. Been out doing other things. It has been a never ending saga with the painter of course. I had to fix the doors because I found a very small crease line when I color sanded it. I shot it with filler primer and gave them back to him to redo. Today the same for the deck lid. I found 2 very small low spots and got those covered with filler primer. I mean WTF I've heard of guide coat. These things should have been picked up on. I basically told him that I will examine the parts before he shoots them because I obviously have a better eye than he does. And I'm no painter...just a meticulous bastard. As I should be damn it. I should have went flyboy's route and did it myself. Would have been finished by now. Even with my own screw ups. Sorry for the rant.

Anyways, I started to mock up a bolt in roll bar so I can take the car to the strip. Well, I'm not so sure about it now. I've got it figured out but it will be PITA to put in whenever I want to race the car. Remove the back seat, carpet etc. The bench seat makes things a little more difficult for the front floor bar. Then finding 6x6 spots on the floor. Top and bottom. Sheesh. I must have been bored when I ordered that roll bar kit.

Wait I forgot that I have the 68 Dart. Yep, just going to save the roll bar kit for that car and designated it as the race car.

Here are a couple of pics of what the main hoop would have looked like. Would still be cool to drag race this thing down the track.

47b8dd23b3127cceb6da4b70d83900000026100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg

47b8dd23b3127cceb6da485819b800000026100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg

47b8dd23b3127cceb6da4fe7599c00000026100AYs27Ji3ZsmPg


Hoping to be on the road in April
 
I think the roll bar is a very good idea and I wouldn`t abandon the idea if you plan on racing the car at all. Just my nickels worth.
 
:downtown:
Longgone said:
On cruise night it gives the ladies something to hold on to as they stand up in the back!!! LOL!
Click to expand...

:downtown:

Seriously though Dave, the roll bar is a no no for your convertible on the street, your right, put it in the dart. If you feel like you really want one in your 66, get something like whats on a cobra or a porshe.

So whats all left to do to "get er done"?
 
Dodgenut64 said:
:downtown:

:downtown:

Seriously though Dave, the roll bar is a no no for your convertible on the street, your right, put it in the dart. If you feel like you really want one in your 66, get something like whats on a cobra or a porshe.

So whats all left to do to "get er done"?
Click to expand...

The Cobra or Porsche roll bars do not met spec for NHRA or IHRA. This would be a bolt in 6-pt bar that mets track rules and could be removed for street driving. The roll bar would only be for racing days or auto-cross days. I would probably pull the bench and back seat and put in an inexpensive race seat or A100 van seats for those days.

I would love for this to be an all-around car that looks bad-*** doing both drag racing and street driving. Everything is still up in the air. I can decide this at anytime. Even after I finish the car. It would not take too much work to get it done if I really plan it well.

What is left?

-Get doors back this weekend. Color sand and buff those when the time comes.
-Sending deck lid back Wednesday after fixing coulple very minute low spots. Repaint and clear. Then cut and buff.
-Hood and fenders are not done yet but are primered and final blocking is being done. I plan to look everything over myself and do some blocking myself if necessary before any more paint goes on. Sick of sending **** back to get redone or fixing mistakes myself. Although the mistakes have been new learning experiences for me.
-The quarters and rockers need to be redone as well. Low spots and I nicked a spot or two. And sanded too deep. Ooooops. Another learning experience.
-Once I get the rest of the pieces back it is just assembly.

Still seems like a lot to do with the pace of my one-man-show painter. But I am hoping no later that April. We shall see. I don't count on anything aat this point.
 
Dave, did you you weld your subframe connects in with the welder you mentioned? I didnt think my welder was strong enough to weld them in. I would like to weld some in before I coat my car with Raptor bed liner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top