1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX

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it looks like the belt has a straight run from alternator to p/s pump? is it worth adding 'another' idler somewhere (maybe just to the pass' side of the water pump housing) to take any flapping' out of that long belt run? it only needs to barely touch the belt to stop it.
neil.
 
it looks like the belt has a straight run from alternator to p/s pump? is it worth adding 'another' idler somewhere (maybe just to the pass' side of the water pump housing) to take any flapping' out of that long belt run? it only needs to barely touch the belt to stop it.
neil.

That is one of the options I am considering.
 
I feel like this is the wrong attitude?

Yep... I am getting the garage ready for the kitchen renovation. Made some space for the old 42" upper cabinets.

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Nice. I am feeling lazy, had shoulder surgery...twice so working on the cars is a pain.
 
Mose any progress?
Momma’s kitchen is almost done..
Lol...
I believe someone you know, if only from the forum, sent the same Weiand intake that the 3 of us have the same model of to CudaChick aka the mistress of metal for powder coating. Do you have his forum name or any links to his progress?
I'm still waiting for my Bill Mitchell Products aluminum RB block. I haven't even swapped the Weiand onto my current 440.
While your Barracuda project is awesome, truly awesome, I am mostly interested in the performance of the F&B setup on the Weiand intake and the RB engine.
 
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Lol...
I believe someone you know, if only from the forum, sent the same Weiand intake that the 3 of us have the same model of to CudaChick aka the mistress of metal for powder coating. Do you have his forum name or any links to his progress?
I'm still waiting for my Bill Mitchell Products aluminum RB block. I haven't even swapped the Weiand onto my current 440.
While your Barracuda project is awesome, truly awesome, I am mostly interested in the performance of the F&B setup on the Weiand intake and the RB engine.

I sent mine to Leanna. See post 590 and 597 of this thread.

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Thanks to both of you.
It may be Bruce at F&B who got 2 of them for him to do the EFI setup on.

Well, mine was definitely the first since prior to mine Bruce had only seen pictures. For visual impact and the "six pack" part of it, I like what we did on mine. For practical and cost it would be better to find one with a dominator top and use one of these: FAST 307604 FAST Throttle Bodies | Summit Racing
 
Intake is back together. All new gaskets, injectors installed, all stainless hardware torqued & w/ anti-seize. On to the next project.

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For practical and cost it would be better to find one with a dominator top and use one of these: FAST 307604 FAST Throttle Bodies | Summit Racing
@mosleyme I have a question for you at the bottom of this post.
Well...thanks, but I already have a nice 6bbl top that came with the nice Weiand P3690982 intake. Not as nice as BNIB/NOS, but significantly nicer than some, including a badly hacked up one the guy I got mine from had sent me at first. I figured I could save some time so I got one he said was already modified per the Chrysler Performance book (which I have). Well, I didn't see any pictures of it but when it came in it looked like the work of a meth addict that was on day 5 of a binge and given one hour to grind everything. I immediately called the seller and sent it back, requesting the other "unmodified" one he had. Well, it actually had the intake runners radiused where the ports meet the floor, but the radius work is sheer perfection and I couldn't have done better.
Back on point:
Can you share why the Dominator top would be better, and should I try to find just that top for sale?
(unlikely to find if I had to guess)
EDIT: I got this intake so I could have a 3x2 setup on my V-code Roadrunner, but better than the factory dual plane intake for a Bill Mitchell Products aluminum 541 cu in stroker I'm building. The factory dual plane is a very good performer, but in order to have a 6bbl, my choice came to the Weiand or the Indy ModMan w/6bbl top, which may perform well, but it's a hideous aluminum shoe box.
 
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I got this intake so I could have a 3x2 setup on my V-code Roadrunner.
There is your answer... the 4500 top would just simplify the EFI conversion and not require the adapter between the throttle bodies and the top. If you want the six pack then that is what it is. Now, that said, I think it would be possible to make a top that is an adapter and bolt the EFI throttle bodies to it instead of the top that comes with it. That can also give you the opportunity to adjust the plenum volume. Building the top would eliminate the extra height of the adapter.
 
Disassembled my ATI balancer and took 0.080” off the nose of the hub. More on why later!
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The “register” that sticks up past the face of the balancer protruded 0.2”, needed it to be about 0.12”.
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Borrowed balancer installation tool from O’Reilly’s
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Took it back 15 minutes later. I’m glad they built one 2 blocks from my house a couple years after we moved in.
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I have an “old” Snap On pry bar that has a hole drilled in the shaft for an Engineering experiment I did for a sensor I built for a class in grad school 18 years ago. Makes for a great crank holding tool when torquing the balancer bolt.
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This is the crank hub assembly. The relief cut in the back to clear the register is 0.385” deep. The register is 0.200” tall, and the washer that goes under the balancer bolt is 0.260” tall. 0.200”+0.260” > 0.385”! So, I cut my register down to 0.120”.

Also, the total length was just long enough that it barely touched the fan blade. So... figured out a way to shorten it 0.250”.

Before:
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Hub:
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Hub with spacer:
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and rear belt guide:
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and a HTD toothed pulley:
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and a serpentine pulley:
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And “after” with the hub shortened a little:
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Assembly:
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New pulley set up for power steering pump. Crank drives water pump, then belt from water pump turns power steering pump. Serpentine pulley on front of hub will drive AC and alternator.
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