efriedrich
69 383S
Very nice build, I know your dreaming about wot speed shifts..
1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX
- Thread starter mosleyme
- Start date
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lxmodguy
Gen3 Hemi Guru
Very cool. I am in frisco. I didnt read through the whole thread. What EFI controller are you using? If you need help with tuning let me know. I have a shop in Garland and all we do is EFI tuning. What intake is that?
Where in Frisco? I am in Plano at Hedgcoxe and Custer. My car is at a restoration shop in Wylie getting the body and paint done. Intake was made by Weiand back in '70-'71 for Mopar and sold over the counter as part # P3690982. This intake was made specifically for Super Stock racing.
Some regard this as the best available cast six pack intake ever made, here is a quote discussing some of its shortcomings:
http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/weiand-c.htm said:
Site details how to go about modifying the intake to help alleviate the fuel puddling problems, I also have some of this same information in my old Mopar engine manual. Guessing that will not be an issue with EFI. I have not purchased the EFI controller as of yet (BSEG), but was planning on the FAST XFI 2.0 system. What is the name of the shop in Garland? Where is it? Do you have a chassis dyno?
Reading this is like foreplay!
lxmodguy
Gen3 Hemi Guru
Here is my intake setup. I am running XFi2 with XIM and coil on plug ignition and E85 on a 13:1 street motor.
Unfortunately after the paint and body shop are done with me the process will have to slow down because I am close to being drained for a while. Good thing is my wife is pushing and wants the project to move because our boys will be helping and she wants them to have the experience and learn a few things they don't teach in schools these days.
Don't worry - I will post lots of pictures so you can follow along from the land of the frozen tundra.
lxmodguy
Gen3 Hemi Guru
Im at eldorado and preston.
OK... started checking hood clearances, making measurements. The air cleaner that came with the throttle body EFI conversion will not clear the hood. (see post 178 for picture of assembly). At the leading edge it interferes by about 1/4". Air cleaner is 8.5"x18", and with a 2" element about 2-3/8" thick.
So now what to do for an air cleaner?
1) Modify this one somehow?
2) Six pack?
The six pack air filter base has a drop. Still trying to get an answer on how much of a drop. Local guy has an old rough fiberglass reproduction of unknown origin and unknown application. Net drop on it is about 1/2". I could modify it with some minor trimming and profiling and maybe get it to 3/4". With this base I did some measurements and it looks like I could use about 1/4" to 3/8" more drop than it currently provides. It is considerably larger than the 8.5"x18" filter on there now.
Six pack air filter element is 15.75"x19.75"x2" and K&N makes both a 2" and 3" version.
Hybrid fiberglass solutions in Houston: Hybrid-fiberglass-solutions.com makes nice reproductions. I could take one of their bases, section it, drop it 1/2" or even 1-1/2" and glass the two pieces back together. Or, get a Mopar Performance reproduction steel base and do the same procedure with sheet metal and a welder. Probably easier to do in fiberglass. Some pictures from my fitment testing attached.
What do you guys think?
So now what to do for an air cleaner?
1) Modify this one somehow?
2) Six pack?
The six pack air filter base has a drop. Still trying to get an answer on how much of a drop. Local guy has an old rough fiberglass reproduction of unknown origin and unknown application. Net drop on it is about 1/2". I could modify it with some minor trimming and profiling and maybe get it to 3/4". With this base I did some measurements and it looks like I could use about 1/4" to 3/8" more drop than it currently provides. It is considerably larger than the 8.5"x18" filter on there now.
Six pack air filter element is 15.75"x19.75"x2" and K&N makes both a 2" and 3" version.
Hybrid fiberglass solutions in Houston: Hybrid-fiberglass-solutions.com makes nice reproductions. I could take one of their bases, section it, drop it 1/2" or even 1-1/2" and glass the two pieces back together. Or, get a Mopar Performance reproduction steel base and do the same procedure with sheet metal and a welder. Probably easier to do in fiberglass. Some pictures from my fitment testing attached.
What do you guys think?
Would start with something like this if steel:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance/312/P4529057AC/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Performance/312/P4529057AC/10002/-1
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
First decide if you're going to seal it to the hood. If not then you can trim the lip off.
A few more pictures today with the spoiler.
A little progress this week, they are busy doing little jobs on other peoples car's getting ready for the big local car show Feb 14-16.
Trunk aligned... it was shifted to the right with no gap on the right and a wide gap on the left. Now it is centered up pretty much perfect. They have started on the metal work that will need to be done on the rocker panel.
Still need to align the hood, it is a little too far forward and will not close.
A little progress this week, they are busy doing little jobs on other peoples car's getting ready for the big local car show Feb 14-16.
Trunk aligned... it was shifted to the right with no gap on the right and a wide gap on the left. Now it is centered up pretty much perfect. They have started on the metal work that will need to be done on the rocker panel.
Still need to align the hood, it is a little too far forward and will not close.
All the little details...
Trunk alignment before: look at gap between L&R top edges of the trunk lid vs the quarters, you will notice the gap on the left is much larger. Scroll up to post 190, both sides are now equal.
Trunk alignment before: look at gap between L&R top edges of the trunk lid vs the quarters, you will notice the gap on the left is much larger. Scroll up to post 190, both sides are now equal.
Compare - older picture with holes from dent puller (marked with black dots) and crease (yellow circled area) next to the window. New pictures; holes and crack have been welded, crease pushed down and the area is starting to be smoothed. Window edge for the rear window is now straight and flat across the top the way it is supposed to be. Also notice the CB antenna base (chrome in top picture) is gone and that hole has been pushed level and welded shut.
clair.davis
catching up...
Man, man, man... I love seeing this progress! It'll be sad not seeing you at the Patina Club meetings any more, but I'll eventually learn to cope. I'm betting you'll be coping just fine, too...
Clair
Clair
clair.davis
catching up...
Almost a shame to close that hood. Almost a shame to have an air cleaner on top of those TB's for that matter...
Clair
Clair
May use the supplied air cleaner for "car show" display purposes, or a 1/4 sheet of lexan that just covers the openings and display the six pack air cleaner assembly in the trunk.
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