1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX
- Thread starter mosleyme
- Start date
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clair.davis
catching up...
Nice work. Looks like just enough space under the hood - that engine doesn't move much when it's running...
Clair
Clair
We have clearance Clair-ence... sorry Airplane movie joke.
No, with the polyeurethane spool mounts it stays put. I may add a "strap" for insurance.
Driveline angle is just about perfect or as close as I can currently measure. Once I get the rear axle, exhaust headers, driveshaft and everything else situated I will check angles, heights and all the other clearances. If possible I may notch the spool mounts and drop the nose of the engine about 1/4" and maybe even shim the transmission mount up a little. This will slightly increase the air cleaner clearance and reduce the engine angle.
With the current ride height I was measuring 2.5 degrees at the crank, does not get much better than that. If I drop the body 1" relative to the axle that will add about 0.5 degree at the crank relative to the body. Still OK, but then will depend on the relative height of the front U-joint to the rear U-joint. If the driveshaft is level, or runs downhill to the differential then no problem. If the pinion is higher than the transmission yoke then that is an issue. I just have not looked yet, maybe just worrying about nothing.
Progress is slow... body work seems to take forever. Since the last update repair on the passenger side rear quarter is done, passenger side door smoothed, A pillars smoothed and matched to the windshield trim. Sail panel body work done, decklid body work done, hood alignment done.
Still need to complete body work in the cowl area between the hood and windshield, body work on the passenger side fender, the header panel, and, finally the rear valance.
Still need to complete body work in the cowl area between the hood and windshield, body work on the passenger side fender, the header panel, and, finally the rear valance.
They are working on the car about 1/2 the time... about six projects working at the shop and only three guys.
Picture of the hood and my new 18x9 "track" wheel. I have a matching 18x10 for the rear.
Picture of the hood and my new 18x9 "track" wheel. I have a matching 18x10 for the rear.
Ordered tires. 255/40-18 for the front, will go on the 18x9. 295/40-18 for the rear, will go on the 18x10. 26" tall front, 27" tall for the rear. I plan to post a picture later in the week with them mounted on the car.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Looking real good.....I like it.
clair.davis
catching up...
I love the smell of new sticky tires in the morning...
And... they... just... might... fit! Kind of fills the wheel wells.
255/40-18 on 18x9 SVE Drift wheel made to fit a 2014 Mustang. '75 A body disc spindle with Dr Diff 13" "Brembo" brake kit.
Diameter: 18 inch
Width: 9 inch
Finish: Black
Lugs: 5
Offset: +35 mm.
Backspacing: 6.38 in.
Bolt Circle: 4.5 in.
TexasDart
Well-Known Member
Hadn't checked back in a while....looking good. Nice to hear about a good shop.
Well cruising weather is coming up...get r done!...
I'm in West Richardson at about Custer and Campbell we need to get together...I work at Campbell and Central.
Well cruising weather is coming up...get r done!...
I'm in West Richardson at about Custer and Campbell we need to get together...I work at Campbell and Central.
That is a busy intersection. We eat lunch over there occasionally, probably about 50 places to eat within a block of that intersection. I work just up the street near the intersection of Alma and Renner.
TexasDart
Well-Known Member
I can see the bowling alley from my office window. Bikinis is always a good place for lunch.
You can walk to Brazil or Japan from there... I am up for Bikinis pretty much any weekday ending with y. I like the grilled chicken salad, the food and service have improved lately, we stopped going for a while.
rymanrph
Well-Known Member
I'm a sucker for those style wheels and I think they're going to look fantastic when your car is all said and done.
Rear valance has been pulled out (it had a shallow dent and a small crease on the passenger side) and clearance is being made for the new exhaust tips! Pictures soon, I promise.
Front fenders have had some small adjustments made to them... a small pie shaped sliver was removed (wide side on the bottom), then the fender lip was pushed forward and tacked. After the welding, grinding, and smoothing you will not be able to tell it was done without knowing. I may even be able to put the stock wheel well trim back on if I want.
Before vs Modified attached.
Front fenders have had some small adjustments made to them... a small pie shaped sliver was removed (wide side on the bottom), then the fender lip was pushed forward and tacked. After the welding, grinding, and smoothing you will not be able to tell it was done without knowing. I may even be able to put the stock wheel well trim back on if I want.
Before vs Modified attached.
thsalmon
Well-Known Member
I love your car! I'm working on a 67 Barracuda convertible, and from reading your thread I can tell that we have similar tastes in 'Cudas. Is your rear end narrowed or mini-tubed? I would appreciate any fitment info on your wheels and tires that you could share. I also live in the DFW area. What shop are you working with?
Picture of loose wheel...
Coppell - that is pretty close. You don't work close to Richardson by chance, some Mopar folks lunching tomorrow in the 75/ Campbell area.
Axle is narrowed to 55.75" from wheel mounting surfaces side to side. That was a 1.75" difference overall from my stock '69 A-body housing with cut down C-body axles and B-body brakes.
Rear is mini-tubbed. Inner wheel housings are flush to the frame. Springs are mounted in the frame with the relocation box kit. The tires on the rear today are 15x10 with 6.5" backspace and 325/50-15 drag radial. Saturday I will put on the 18x10 with 22mm offset (6.36" backspace) and at least a 5/16" spacer, maybe as much as an inch spacer. I'll sort that out Saturday. Tire is a 295/40-18.
Front has 255/40-18 on 18x9 with 35mm offset (6.38" backspace), no spacer. UCA is an old Magnum force tubular. Spindles are '75 A-body. Front brakes are a kit from Dr Diff that use a 13" rotor and a Porsche replacement "Brembo" style 4 piston caliper. These work out to be about 3/16" wider each side than the stock '73-'76 brakes.
Shop is Rod's Car Craft in Wylie. I will be there Saturday from 8-12 working on the car. Rod is hosting a "car clinic" for the local Camaro club, but I think anyone can show up and hang out.
Fit the rear tires. With a 1" spacer I still have 1/2" without trimming the fender lip and 2-1/4" clearance at the closest point on the inside. This is with a 295/40-18 tire on the rear on an 18x10. 335 will fit easy, a 345 would be tight but would probably fit also.
Today Alec (my 11 year old boy) and I swapped the spindles left to right to put the caliper mounts to the rear and swapped the front studs from 2" to 3" studs.
Today Alec (my 11 year old boy) and I swapped the spindles left to right to put the caliper mounts to the rear and swapped the front studs from 2" to 3" studs.
One of the last little things before the car gets high build primer for paint prep.
Rear valance was repaired and dual exhaust tip cut outs were added.
First picture shows about how far they will stick out on the valance, pictures where I am holding the tip by hand show the desired height, and the last picture shows the pan and where the single exhaust cut-out used to be. I had to move the tips inboard a little because the springs are relocated into the frame. When I had the fuel tank made I had them make it 10 inches narrower than the frame. This leaves room to run pipes between the frame and the tank. Minimum clearance to the valance is about 1/2".
Rear valance was repaired and dual exhaust tip cut outs were added.
First picture shows about how far they will stick out on the valance, pictures where I am holding the tip by hand show the desired height, and the last picture shows the pan and where the single exhaust cut-out used to be. I had to move the tips inboard a little because the springs are relocated into the frame. When I had the fuel tank made I had them make it 10 inches narrower than the frame. This leaves room to run pipes between the frame and the tank. Minimum clearance to the valance is about 1/2".
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