There should be some stores that sell all kinds of metals right there. Even back near Springfiled, Mo. we had a large store that sold every kind and grade of metal. I bought the good "stuff" for bit and spur making. I forget their name.
1972 Dodge Colt
- Thread starter Hyper_pak
- Start date
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There should be some stores that sell all kinds of metals right there. Even back near Springfiled, Mo. we had a large store that sold every kind and grade of metal. I bought the good "stuff" for bit and spur making. I forget their name.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
It's not the fact of gas or alky. Small pieces of the teflon can get into the fuel system and cause problems.
I still have Wills' 64 Valiant. Haven't ever done anything on the car, but have collected some parts for it. I have a SW roll cage kit, One piece fiberglass tilt nose, doors that were on a 66 Cuda but will fit. Have Lexan for the windows. Some parts to alter the front wheelbase. 8 inch Ford 4.10 rear with a mini spool. Converter. Should have enough parts to build a slant six, and 904 trans. Turbo charger, and propane system on the shelf. I don't think I will ever get it running. Not enough time (80 years old) left and too many other things to do.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Charrlie, the reason I ask is an old friend is getting a slant bug again after many years.
He is a 67-69 Dart guy, but I might get him thinking about the '64.
He is a 67-69 Dart guy, but I might get him thinking about the '64.
The 64s sure are a lot lighter than the later cars. That'd be enough for me right there.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Maybe I am getting better with my metal work.
Only made one part this time!
I found a decent peice of al-u-minum today and fabricated a fuel mount bracket.
Drilled a few holes to take some weight out.
I have been thinking about weight and how to get some out of the car.
Now off to Summit to buy some AN adapters.
Also going to tap the fuel block on one end for a gage.
Only made one part this time!
I found a decent peice of al-u-minum today and fabricated a fuel mount bracket.
Drilled a few holes to take some weight out.
I have been thinking about weight and how to get some out of the car.
Now off to Summit to buy some AN adapters.
Also going to tap the fuel block on one end for a gage.
Awesome work you are doing!
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Will do Jerry!
3350 miles in 10 days, just didn't have time to stop.
Went right by your house and saw Tommy C in tidewater.
3350 miles in 10 days, just didn't have time to stop.
Went right by your house and saw Tommy C in tidewater.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Fired the Colt today before big rain headed our way.
It's funny, I ran the fuel pump many times yesterday with no leak issues.
I come out this morning and the gargae smells like a gas refinery.
The fuel filter top bolt is leaking and 2 of the banjos on the carbs are leaking.
The oil filled pressure gage says to clip the tit on the rubber seal plug after install.
I had never done that, so I did and now as it gets hot, oil leaks out the top!
I have another gage, I will swap the plug.
I have to thank Rick C in PA for helping with the first start on the Webers.
After some hickups and burps it came to life.
And idled at 1100 RPM.
Something the single 4 never did.
Still not running quite right, more tuning to do.
But progress.
Fuel pressure is still a question, the Redline pressure regulator acts weird.
But the Holley regulator did also on trying to adjust it.
Adjustment all the way out it shows close to 7 PSI with engine off.
The is the bypass number on the Holley Red Pump.
So I adjusted it about half way in. Clock-Wise.
Then when the engine starts, it will slowly reduce to, in the last run, 2.5 PSI.
I am concerned with the 7 number and my seats in the Carbs.
Weber folk say 3 PSI is the sweet spot.
There is no return line from the regulator to the tank.
Here is a video of the installation, engine not running.
It's funny, I ran the fuel pump many times yesterday with no leak issues.
I come out this morning and the gargae smells like a gas refinery.
The fuel filter top bolt is leaking and 2 of the banjos on the carbs are leaking.
The oil filled pressure gage says to clip the tit on the rubber seal plug after install.
I had never done that, so I did and now as it gets hot, oil leaks out the top!
I have another gage, I will swap the plug.
I have to thank Rick C in PA for helping with the first start on the Webers.
After some hickups and burps it came to life.
And idled at 1100 RPM.
Something the single 4 never did.
Still not running quite right, more tuning to do.
But progress.
Fuel pressure is still a question, the Redline pressure regulator acts weird.
But the Holley regulator did also on trying to adjust it.
Adjustment all the way out it shows close to 7 PSI with engine off.
The is the bypass number on the Holley Red Pump.
So I adjusted it about half way in. Clock-Wise.
Then when the engine starts, it will slowly reduce to, in the last run, 2.5 PSI.
I am concerned with the 7 number and my seats in the Carbs.
Weber folk say 3 PSI is the sweet spot.
There is no return line from the regulator to the tank.
Here is a video of the installation, engine not running.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Changed back to the 36 chokes last night.
Found a couple of venturi were in backward.
Brain fart I guess.
I just didn't double check my work.
Ran it this morning and it still idles great.
But the #1 carb idle circuits don't seem to be working.
So I am going to remove that carb and see what I can find.
Here is the Video of it running.
Found a couple of venturi were in backward.
Brain fart I guess.
I just didn't double check my work.
Ran it this morning and it still idles great.
But the #1 carb idle circuits don't seem to be working.
So I am going to remove that carb and see what I can find.
Here is the Video of it running.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Well it didn't go exactly like I expected.
I tried to adjust idle circuits and throttle position at the same time.
Can't do that on a new tune.
I loosened the throttle shaft linkage bars so they were all independent.
Then when through the idle screws many times and used the Uni-Syn to see flow on each carb.
After I got the idle as smooth as I could I re-adjusted the idle crews for Uni-Syn balance.
The re-attached the linkage bars.
It was interesting when they were independent to open the throttle on one carb.
She would spit and pop as the other 4 were sucking on closed throttle bases.
After I had everything hooked up I spun it to around 3 or 4 thousand.
There was a slight stumble till it got on the main jets, then it sounded good.
So I have gone back to just about the baseline jetting when I got the carbs.
I have a different emulsion tubes in, but the tune should be closer to out the box.
The jet changes are easy, I will make a couple of small changes at the track friday night.
The picture is getting to the main and idle jet assemblies.
I did find out I have older version Italian Webers without the air by-pass valves.
And the Uni-Syn is an Edelbrock Equipment Co part!
The instructions tell you how to tune a corvair with dual carbs.
I tried to adjust idle circuits and throttle position at the same time.
Can't do that on a new tune.
I loosened the throttle shaft linkage bars so they were all independent.
Then when through the idle screws many times and used the Uni-Syn to see flow on each carb.
After I got the idle as smooth as I could I re-adjusted the idle crews for Uni-Syn balance.
The re-attached the linkage bars.
It was interesting when they were independent to open the throttle on one carb.
She would spit and pop as the other 4 were sucking on closed throttle bases.
After I had everything hooked up I spun it to around 3 or 4 thousand.
There was a slight stumble till it got on the main jets, then it sounded good.
So I have gone back to just about the baseline jetting when I got the carbs.
I have a different emulsion tubes in, but the tune should be closer to out the box.
The jet changes are easy, I will make a couple of small changes at the track friday night.
The picture is getting to the main and idle jet assemblies.
I did find out I have older version Italian Webers without the air by-pass valves.
And the Uni-Syn is an Edelbrock Equipment Co part!
The instructions tell you how to tune a corvair with dual carbs.
383Duster
Well-Known Member
I had that same uni sync I used on the Datsun 1600 and 2000 I owned….
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I still have one in my tool box. Got it many years ago, when I had 3 two bbls on a 1958 283 Chevy
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I took the Colt out for the last time this year.
Getting cold out here in Texas, but I wanted to see where things are.
This video is the second pass and you can see quite a few things in the pass.
First, I am still driving thru the front brakes.
Second, it seemed the engine stumbled out the hole, then it picked up.
Third, my best 1-2 shift, I didn't lift the throttle and it hit good.
I was watching the tach and it was climbing toward 6k, rev limited and shift light setting.
Fourth, either I missed 3rd or I had a trans issue, it was ugly.
And so that was the night.
Gates don't open till 3, there was a pretty good oil down, and it was getting dark
Getting cold out here in Texas, but I wanted to see where things are.
This video is the second pass and you can see quite a few things in the pass.
First, I am still driving thru the front brakes.
Second, it seemed the engine stumbled out the hole, then it picked up.
Third, my best 1-2 shift, I didn't lift the throttle and it hit good.
I was watching the tach and it was climbing toward 6k, rev limited and shift light setting.
Fourth, either I missed 3rd or I had a trans issue, it was ugly.
And so that was the night.
Gates don't open till 3, there was a pretty good oil down, and it was getting dark
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Based on the last run and some other things, here is the winter "To Do List"
Remove transmission and fix that damn countershaft seep.
Re-visit shifter levers and rods.
Install clutch tamer.
Remove Cylinder Head and replace head gasket, developed an oil leak between block and head.
Install ARP head studs.
Re-visit the cam installed position, I think it's too far advanced.
Start working on crank trigger bracket and pickup.
Electronic distributor to a shop for advance modification and data.
New front brakes, Strange calipers on new mount brackets.
New steering links to allow some front end travel. More than ZERO travel.
New front shocks or KONI springs based on the front end weight. (1000 lbs)
Sure there will be more to do, but need to be ready for MOKAN in the spring.
Thanks for everyone following along.
Remove transmission and fix that damn countershaft seep.
Re-visit shifter levers and rods.
Install clutch tamer.
Remove Cylinder Head and replace head gasket, developed an oil leak between block and head.
Install ARP head studs.
Re-visit the cam installed position, I think it's too far advanced.
Start working on crank trigger bracket and pickup.
Electronic distributor to a shop for advance modification and data.
New front brakes, Strange calipers on new mount brackets.
New steering links to allow some front end travel. More than ZERO travel.
New front shocks or KONI springs based on the front end weight. (1000 lbs)
Sure there will be more to do, but need to be ready for MOKAN in the spring.
Thanks for everyone following along.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Been a minute, but back at it.
Opened the transmission, everything looked good.
Might not put quite so much gear oil back in, it was correct, but seemed over kill.
Went through the trans and re-sealed the counter-shaft.
I looked at the stops on the shifter and I had them miss adjusted a little.
So I increased the throws by moving the stops on third and fourth gear.
Might be why I missed third the last time out.
Last picture is back in the Colt.
A little easier installation than a normal car.
No easy, but easier.
Opened the transmission, everything looked good.
Might not put quite so much gear oil back in, it was correct, but seemed over kill.
Went through the trans and re-sealed the counter-shaft.
I looked at the stops on the shifter and I had them miss adjusted a little.
So I increased the throws by moving the stops on third and fourth gear.
Might be why I missed third the last time out.
Last picture is back in the Colt.
A little easier installation than a normal car.
No easy, but easier.
abdywgn
dismantler
Stan, do you remember an article in a vintage Mopar magazine about the adjustment to help prevent missing third? With the pin removed from the hole in the shifter, you lengthen (?) the rod which if I recall the writer says it opens the gate up to catch third easier. And maybe that is only for an H-pattern shifter. Welcome back. Did Kota help with the trans?
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I don't, but it most likely was a H Pattern shifter.
The stops will allow a further throw on 3 and 4.
And no Kota did not help.
I think he has ADD.
The stops will allow a further throw on 3 and 4.
And no Kota did not help.
I think he has ADD.
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
Looks like Kota needs a snack!
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Don't say that!
He will hear you!
LOL
He will hear you!
LOL
Just out of interest where did you end up with regards to your jetting/choke/venturi size?
That transition from the idle jets to the main stacks is tricky and sometimes requires modifications to the progression holes to get right.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Hello Ted265!!!
I don't have it right yet for sure.
I tried to contact Power House Engines and Glenn Everitt about the setup on a youtube slant with Webers.
I haven't heard from them, doubt I will.
I have read that if the throttle blades aren't exactly correct they don't let the idle circuits work right.
And I have not changed any idle jets yet.
Can you recommend a book, any source of information?
These Webers were not sold as a slant set, much less for a modified engine.
The Clifford intake has no Vacuum port so I can't tune for that without adding a fitting.
Plus I had/have a fuel pressure issue, or gage issue.
I had set it for 3 but at the track it crept up to 6, at least as indicated.
I hate to spring for a Redline $100 dollar regulator, I have the old style they don't sell anymore.
Any Weber knowledge you want to share, I am all ears!
Thanks
Modifying the progression holes should only be done as a last resort - easy to stuff it up and ruin a set of carbs. I would recommend getting the factory weber manual (think its available online as a PDF) as well as this book by Des Hammill:
Don't sweat the no vacuum port on the manifold on an individual runner system the guage would just be bouncing around like crazy so it would be difficult to get a good read on it anyway. An O2 sensor can be usefull for getting it dialed in but can sometimes lead you down the wrong path, the gauge mounted near the tach can help guide you to which circuit needs adjusting as well as where your aux venturies are starting to flow .
Get the fuel pressure sorted out first as the change in pressure will change your tune, they are pretty sensitive to it. I run mine at 3psi using a speco regulator - cheap and does the job well. Check where your idle screws are currently at, generaly less than 1 turn out from stoped the ide jet is too big, more than 2 - 2 1/2 turns its too small. Air bleed size on the idle jet size has a pretty big effect on the fuel curve through the progression phase - a 55F6 will deliver a richer mixture than a 65F8 as rpm increases. I found my engine responded well to a good bump in initial timing and a slower curve compared to where it used to like with the 4bbl setup. I also found this style carb balancer to be more accurate than the uni-syn - the one I had seemed to choke the cylinder off rather quickly even with the bypass opened all the way, plus it seals in the trumpets nicely.
But yeah lots of reading, lots of trial and error and lots of $$ on jets, aux. venturies, chokes ect. But when it's right you wouldn't have anything else.
Don't sweat the no vacuum port on the manifold on an individual runner system the guage would just be bouncing around like crazy so it would be difficult to get a good read on it anyway. An O2 sensor can be usefull for getting it dialed in but can sometimes lead you down the wrong path, the gauge mounted near the tach can help guide you to which circuit needs adjusting as well as where your aux venturies are starting to flow .
Get the fuel pressure sorted out first as the change in pressure will change your tune, they are pretty sensitive to it. I run mine at 3psi using a speco regulator - cheap and does the job well. Check where your idle screws are currently at, generaly less than 1 turn out from stoped the ide jet is too big, more than 2 - 2 1/2 turns its too small. Air bleed size on the idle jet size has a pretty big effect on the fuel curve through the progression phase - a 55F6 will deliver a richer mixture than a 65F8 as rpm increases. I found my engine responded well to a good bump in initial timing and a slower curve compared to where it used to like with the 4bbl setup. I also found this style carb balancer to be more accurate than the uni-syn - the one I had seemed to choke the cylinder off rather quickly even with the bypass opened all the way, plus it seals in the trumpets nicely.
But yeah lots of reading, lots of trial and error and lots of $$ on jets, aux. venturies, chokes ect. But when it's right you wouldn't have anything else.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Thanks Ted265, lots of info there to digest and correct.
My idle screws are as you describe, I will get some more jets.
Thanks and please check back to see the progress.
My idle screws are as you describe, I will get some more jets.
Thanks and please check back to see the progress.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Got the trans back in.
Removed the intake, exhaust and head.
Going to re visit the cam installation and centerline.
Pretty sure I need to move it back a few degrees.
Head will go back on with a composite gasket and head studs.
Removed the intake, exhaust and head.
Going to re visit the cam installation and centerline.
Pretty sure I need to move it back a few degrees.
Head will go back on with a composite gasket and head studs.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
I am kind of all over the place right now.
With Christmas coming, cold and rain here in DFW and the Colt apart, I am ADD-ing.
I did find what I think I need for the fuel pressure.
I looked at Ebay US and Australia and couldn't find exactly what I wanted.
I spoke to a guy at AED in VA and he informed me about a Holley 12-804.
Low pressure regulator factory pre-set at 2.8, just about perfect.
So I ordered it from Summitt today and it was on sale, was not too expensive.
No pressure gage port, but I can move that to the fuel log on the intake.
Called Oregon Cams on roller lifters.
I have an old Cox Bros. roller, but no lifters.
No cam card either, but I will have my 170 apart soon and I will map it using the block.
We shall see.
I was looking at my Strange Spindles.
Looks like if I whack the steering boss off I can get, maybe 2 inches of front end travel.
I can then make a bracket, drill and tap the spindle to mount the steering arm on it.
It won't totally destroy the originally of the suspension, just maybe fix something that needed it.
Then loosen the coil over to allow some travel, that is the plan.
Still working on getting the Damper off, no room for the puller.
So I had to make a plate and slowly pulling it off, hard to explain, but it should work.
With Christmas coming, cold and rain here in DFW and the Colt apart, I am ADD-ing.
I did find what I think I need for the fuel pressure.
I looked at Ebay US and Australia and couldn't find exactly what I wanted.
I spoke to a guy at AED in VA and he informed me about a Holley 12-804.
Low pressure regulator factory pre-set at 2.8, just about perfect.
So I ordered it from Summitt today and it was on sale, was not too expensive.
No pressure gage port, but I can move that to the fuel log on the intake.
Called Oregon Cams on roller lifters.
I have an old Cox Bros. roller, but no lifters.
No cam card either, but I will have my 170 apart soon and I will map it using the block.
We shall see.
I was looking at my Strange Spindles.
Looks like if I whack the steering boss off I can get, maybe 2 inches of front end travel.
I can then make a bracket, drill and tap the spindle to mount the steering arm on it.
It won't totally destroy the originally of the suspension, just maybe fix something that needed it.
Then loosen the coil over to allow some travel, that is the plan.
Still working on getting the Damper off, no room for the puller.
So I had to make a plate and slowly pulling it off, hard to explain, but it should work.
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