After some head scratching I noticed something on the shifter.
On the 1st and 2nd mechanism the "pin" is close to the gate for 3rd and 4th.
So I re-adjusted the 3rd and 4th mechanism out a few threads.
Which moved the 1-2 pin deeper on the slot as shown here.
This seems to allow the 1-2 more time to move back and drop into the "gate".
What I noticed was there is a little slop using the alignment tool and you can move 3-4 a few turns.
And still have the alignment tool fit.
This last picture shows the 3-4 rod and where I moved it out a couple of turns.
Notice the alignment tool is still installed and can be removed easily.
At MOKAN I had the trans stick in second gear on one run.
Now I know the shifter has to be moved with some serious force, but I guess I was going to 3rd slower.
If you do that on the bench with that pin "shallow" on the ramp it can drop into the gate and still be in 2.
Of course with the rooster on the side cover still in 2nd it will not allow you to go into 3rd.
This adjustment keeps the pin on the ramp longer and still clears 2 before going to 3rd.
Here is the dis-claimer.
The shifter is old, but not worn.
I have owned it for years and it does not have a million shifts on it.
Nothing is worn in the shifter, everything is tight.
But there is some tolerance in the alignment pit to the shifter body.
By moving some of the adjustments in and out you can change some of the shift action.
Anyway, that is my story, and until I get on the track again, just a theory.
I hope I am not becoming UT and talking myself into insanity.
For that matter, Road Kill guys do the same thing, but I think they are insane already.
