a six pack setup will cost you another 3k though...Ok, I suppose I should clarify the goals for the build:
1. Car will be a weekend warrior (cruising to local shows, maybe hit the strip once or twice a year, maybe a longer road-trip once a year).
2. Definitely want it to not be a slouch in stoplight to stoplight, and don’t give a damn about gas mileage. Figure on running 93 octane all the time.
3. The 400 hp number was pulled after seeing the articles on that budget build in the magazines, and finding a 318 that already has the zero deck, .060 over. Not married to it.
4. Would like to run against a buddy’s 392 challenger someday, and the calculator I ran it through showed me needing 450 to win, but 400 would be pretty close. 13 in the quarter would be pretty sweet if I can get there and still be streetable.
5. Budget. Ideally, looking for 3k and under, total for the engine, but can squeak up to around 4.5k if I dump onto credit cards.
Now, here’s another wrinkle. Just found a stock 70 340 that needs carb, water pump, new seals (from sitting), pulleys and accessories for 3k. I figure that with a 6-pack setup and headers would get me around 360 horses.
Does your car already have a V8 ? What rear end ? Gears ? How much is the 318 short block ? You have any performance parts already to work with?Ok, I suppose I should clarify the goals for the build:
1. Car will be a weekend warrior (cruising to local shows, maybe hit the strip once or twice a year, maybe a longer road-trip once a year).
2. Definitely want it to not be a slouch in stoplight to stoplight, and don’t give a damn about gas mileage. Figure on running 93 octane all the time.
3. The 400 hp number was pulled after seeing the articles on that budget build in the magazines, and finding a 318 that already has the zero deck, .060 over. Not married to it.
4. Would like to run against a buddy’s 392 challenger someday, and the calculator I ran it through showed me needing 450 to win, but 400 would be pretty close. 13 in the quarter would be pretty sweet if I can get there and still be streetable.
5. Budget. Ideally, looking for 3k and under, total for the engine, but can squeak up to around 4.5k if I dump onto credit cards.
Now, here’s another wrinkle. Just found a stock 70 340 that needs carb, water pump, new seals (from sitting), pulleys and accessories for 3k. I figure that with a 6-pack setup and headers would get me around 360 horses.
A single Holley is hard enough to keep in tune let alone 3.as for a six-pack leave them for the old men with giant wallets that polish their cars at shows... a good 4bbl setup will get you what you want and for 1/10th the price if you find a good used intake. plus less hassles and setup ****..
Budget. Ideally, looking for 3k and under, total for the engine, but can squeak up to around 4.5k if I dump onto credit cards.
- If someone wanted to build a 150HP 318, you will still say buy a 360.
Car is currently a 225/6, Clifford 6=8 4 bbl setup, 7.25 rear, 3.91 gears, 28” tires. Have a small block 904 to go with the new build. Other than that, starting at scratch, and around here, finding 340s or 360’s (complete) are like finding a leprechaun.Does your car already have a V8 ? What rear end ? Gears ? How much is the 318 short block ? You have any performance parts already to work with?
With your budget and depends where your car is at engine wise, I'd worry more about getting a decent foundation running and driving you can build upon, maybe find a running magnum the you can add headers 4bbl regrind cam stall with gears etc..
Everything doesn't have to be done from day one, you can build over time.
I know the rear won’t handle much, but if I baby it, it’ll get through until I can afford an 8.75Car is currently a 225/6, Clifford 6=8 4 bbl setup, 7.25 rear, 3.91 gears, 28” tires. Have a small block 904 to go with the new build. Other than that, starting at scratch, and around here, finding 340s or 360’s (complete) are like finding a leprechaun.
Wish I had the scratch to but a nice Blue-Print 408/727 stroker combination for the car and have warranties and everything nice and new, but there’s just no way I can swing 16 grand….so unless I find a philanthropist that wants to see that happen for me, it’s grinding away at overtime and driving Lyft on the side to scrape something together. Add to that, I’ve never built an engine before, and hoping I can manage the swap with limited space, tools and experience.
There is the cool factor to having a 340. I will say this, if it's a non running engine, don't be surprised if it needs 2000 dollars worth of machine shop work. That goes for any small block LA, they are getting older and older.Just found a stock 70 340 that needs carb, water pump, new seals (from sitting), pulleys and accessories for 3k.
You are basically starting out just like my project.Car is currently a 225/6, Clifford 6=8 4 bbl setup, 7.25 rear, 3.91 gears, 28” tires. Have a small block 904 to go with the new build. Other than that, starting at scratch, and around here, finding 340s or 360’s (complete) are like finding a leprechaun.
Wish I had the scratch to but a nice Blue-Print 408/727 stroker combination for the car and have warranties and everything nice and new, but there’s just no way I can swing 16 grand….so unless I find a philanthropist that wants to see that happen for me, it’s grinding away at overtime and driving Lyft on the side to scrape something together. Add to that, I’ve never built an engine before, and hoping I can manage the swap with limited space, tools and experience.
agreed, if the 'tuned' 6 runs well i'd spend money on the rear end, front brakes and suspension before thinking about the motor swap. re the rear end have a look at ford exploder axles. 31 spline shafts, lsd and disc brakes are stock. cut the casing long side to swap in a second short shaft (cheap as chips from rock auto) and it's almost exactly the same width as an 'a' body 8 3/4. it's a common swap that's well documented on here.You are basically starting out just like my project.
You will need to do lots of research and parts hunting, maybe even find a parts car. My advice is, make what you have in the car now work really good and enjoy it until you think you have everything necessary to do the complete engine swap. If anyone tells you that you should start taking apart a perfectly good working car in preparation before you have absolutely everything ready, those people are re***ded.
A single Holley is hard enough to keep in tune let alone 3.
In my opinion, leave the stock factory brakes, unless the car is used for road racing or something. As for the rear end, it needs to be the easiest rear to deal with when it comes to replace parts in my opinion. That means no weirdness like having a different bolt circle than the front hubs or having to remember which ford exploder the brake setup it's from. That is how I'm mostly doing my car, so I can have a better chance of finding the correct service parts by keeping them in the similar year and in the family of the same ish models. These are just my opinions, people can set things up anyway they want.agreed, if the 'tuned' 6 runs well i'd spend money on the rear end, front brakes and suspension before thinking about the motor swap. re the rear end have a look at ford exploder axles. 31 spline shafts, lsd and disc brakes are stock. cut the casing long side to swap in a second short shaft (cheap as chips from rock auto) and it's almost exactly the same width as an 'a' body 8 3/4. it's a common swap that's well documented on here.
once the car's built for a more powerful motor then save to build one right, once.
Ok, I suppose I should clarify the goals for the build:
1. Car will be a weekend warrior (cruising to local shows, maybe hit the strip once or twice a year, maybe a longer road-trip once a year).
2. Definitely want it to not be a slouch in stoplight to stoplight, and don’t give a damn about gas mileage. Figure on running 93 octane all the time.
3. The 400 hp number was pulled after seeing the articles on that budget build in the magazines, and finding a 318 that already has the zero deck, .060 over. Not married to it.
4. Would like to run against a buddy’s 392 challenger someday, and the calculator I ran it through showed me needing 450 to win, but 400 would be pretty close. 13 in the quarter would be pretty sweet if I can get there and still be streetable.
5. Budget. Ideally, looking for 3k and under, total for the engine, but can squeak up to around 4.5k if I dump onto credit cards.
Now, here’s another wrinkle. Just found a stock 70 340 that needs carb, water pump, new seals (from sitting), pulleys and accessories for 3k. I figure that with a 6-pack setup and headers would get me around 360 horses.
i wondered how long it would be before someone would comment.I should red X this but it’s pretty funny so I’ll pass this time lol.
3 grand if it runs and no smoke is about right. That's a fair deal.Ok, I suppose I should clarify the goals for the build:
1. Car will be a weekend warrior (cruising to local shows, maybe hit the strip once or twice a year, maybe a longer road-trip once a year).
2. Definitely want it to not be a slouch in stoplight to stoplight, and don’t give a damn about gas mileage. Figure on running 93 octane all the time.
3. The 400 hp number was pulled after seeing the articles on that budget build in the magazines, and finding a 318 that already has the zero deck, .060 over. Not married to it.
4. Would like to run against a buddy’s 392 challenger someday, and the calculator I ran it through showed me needing 450 to win, but 400 would be pretty close. 13 in the quarter would be pretty sweet if I can get there and still be streetable.
5. Budget. Ideally, looking for 3k and under, total for the engine, but can squeak up to around 4.5k if I dump onto credit cards.
Now, here’s another wrinkle. Just found a stock 70 340 that needs carb, water pump, new seals (from sitting), pulleys and accessories for 3k. I figure that with a 6-pack setup and headers would get me around 360 horses.
You look at that 400 hp magnum headed 318, go a 230 cam making peak power at 6200 rpm a similar cam 5.9l magnum gonna be more like 5400-5500 rpm.