[FOR SALE] 340/mag360 exhaust manifolds

[Treblig]

GET'EM WHILE THEY'RE HOT (actually it's cold outside) LOL...Here are the latest pics of what I have available!!
I am running very low on these manifolds!!! Currently have four orders (with cash deposits) for 340/Dakota and 360 mag manifolds sets. Running low on stock but still have a few left. These are either 340 driver manifolds with the 2 1/4" exhaust hole and or the Dakota driver manifold which has been "machined" out to match the 340 (2 1/4" exhaust hole) or the 360 magnum passenger manifold which has also been "machined" out to 2 1/4". I don't believe you can buy a better flowing small block cast iron manifold anywhere else that has been sand blasted, checked for cracks, primed with high heat primer, painted with high heat paint and cured under 130-150 degree heat for 12 hours to make the paint last as long as possible under your hood. I also sell the 2 1/4" "flared" exhaust pipe stub for those who like to make there own exhaust system. these stubs come with the correct flange adapter to connect the stub to the manifold.
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340 driver paired with 360 mag passenger sell for $320 PLUS SHIPPING
Dakota driver paired with 360 mag passenger sell for $210 PLUS SHIPPING
The "flared" stub pipe with adapter flange sell for $30 each side PLUS SHIPPING

PLEASE check previous post in this thread for many pics of the manifolds and stub pipes/adapters that I sell.
PS - GET YOUR CHRISTMAS ORDERS IN NOW before I sell out of manifolds again!!

Thanks FABO!!!
treblig
Attached Images

 

[67dartgtgo]

Hey Gil...received mine this weekend. Totally awesome...thank you.
Brian

 

[Treblig]

Hey Gil...received mine this weekend. Totally awesome...thank you.
Brian

You're very welcome!! I put lots of time into finding, machining, blasting, painting and curing the manifolds....more time than you might imagine.

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Pictures being posted for Jeff1. Pics of my 69 Barracuda with 340 driver and 360 "machined" magnum passenger manifolds. With a few pics from the underside showing the huge clearance on the 360 mag passenger side and the tight clearance on the 340 driver as it goes past the torsion bar.
Yes, that's a home made plug wire shield on the 340 manifold.

treblig

 

[jeff1]

Hi Gil thanks for the pics. I believe they will work in my app. 67 cuda powersteering and brakes wt automatic trans. Please let me know how to proceed. I'm not sure of rules on FABO and don't want to cause any grief for anyone. So let me know. I have a student that needs a cross country maybe corpus. Lol. Thanks Jeff

 

[Treblig]

Hi Gil thanks for the pics. I believe they will work in my app. 67 cuda powersteering and brakes wt automatic trans. Please let me know how to proceed. I'm not sure of rules on FABO and don't want to cause any grief for anyone. So let me know. I have a student that needs a cross country maybe corpus. Lol. Thanks Jeff

OK, sent you a PM with all the pay pal info. Will post pics of the stubs/and bung pipes later.

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Here are the pics of the stub pipes with bung for Jeff1. One is stainless but they are 2 1/8" pipe which I could fix for a little more.

Treblig

 

[jeff1]

I think the drives side stub might interfere with the crowded confines on that side. I noticed that u used a tight radius pipe at the exit of your manifold. If I'm incorrect please educate me ! If you think those might work let me know. Worried the starter , torsion bar ,brake valve would be in the way.
I read and enjoyed your thread on 200r4. I have always thought the way to go was with the adapter. Unfortunitily you did not have my previous experience wt TCI. Back in the late 70s we worked with them on racing transmissions. Even got sponsored trans from them. Power glide stuff behind a 383 chevy stroker. We always had to fix everything. Ended up sending all their stuff back. We thanked them but never went back. I may use their adapter like you did but will use your thread to fix the problems. Quality control
Your opinion please on the stubs. I could always put the bungs a little further down stream.

 

[Treblig]

I think the drives side stub might interfere with the crowded confines on that side. I noticed that u used a tight radius pipe at the exit of your manifold. If I'm incorrect please educate me ! If you think those might work let me know. Worried the starter , torsion bar ,brake valve would be in the way.
I read and enjoyed your thread on 200r4. I have always thought the way to go was with the adapter. Unfortunitily you did not have my previous experience wt TCI. Back in the late 70s we worked with them on racing transmissions. Even got sponsored trans from them. Power glide stuff behind a 383 chevy stroker. We always had to fix everything. Ended up sending all their stuff back. We thanked them but never went back. I may use their adapter like you did but will use your thread to fix the problems. Quality control
Your opinion please on the stubs. I could always put the bungs a little further down stream.

Well, like I said, they are 2 1/8"....all my other stub pipes are 2 1/4" with the correct flared end. You didn't say if you needed bungs on both sides, I always thought you only put a bung on the passenger side. That said, you could move the bung, either way you'll need to get it done. It's probably easier for you to buy the 2 1/4" stub pipes with the correct flared ends and get the bungs put in the place that is best for your application.
The driver's side on my Barracuda (like all A bodies with the 340 driver) does require a super tight radius "mandrel bend" pipe just above the torsion bar. Everyone also knows that the taller your motor mounts the more room you have above the torsion bar!!! I've been thinking about selling that piece (super tight radius 180 degree) as well but most members want to do their own. For my Barracuda I had to order a piece of 2 1/4" super tight radius J bend and cut it up as you see in the pic of my driver's exhaust. If I were to do it again or make one up for a member ( I am a welder) I would buy this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270970340096?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


and cut it into two pieces and sell each half for $20 and/or weld it onto the driver's 340 stub pipe then sell it already to go. I'm throwing in more pics of the driver's side going past the starter and the TCI plate (FYI - I should have cut off more of the adapter plate around the starter area leaving more room for the exhaust to exit!!!!) There was plenty of room on the driver's side except for the one spot where the driver's manifold exits just above the torsion bar. But with a piece of super tight radius pipe it's pretty easy!!!


PS - The reason I used the TCI adapter was very simple...it is the thinnest adapter plate I could find. The thicker the plate the more you have to cut into the upper cross member. The thicker the adapter plate the more it pushes the trans toward the rear running it into the upper cross member (on both sides!!!). TCI is 1/4" thick, everyone else's is thicker. If you don't mind cutting more off your cross member then you simply buy the one you want. In fact, I don't think I had to cut on the passenger's side of the upper cross member at all but if the adapter plate had been just 1/8" thicker I would have had to cut on the passenger's side. As it was I had to remove (cut off) an unneeded ear from the 2004R to clear the cross member on the passenger's side for it to clear.

Also in the pics you can see the header gasket ( between the down pipe and the manifold). It's a 2 1/4" ID 4 hole gasket. I couldn't find a two hole gasket with the correct ID so I used a 4 hole, you can see the extra two holes sticking out 90 degrees from the actual flange bolts. It much easier if you silicone the gasket onto the manifold and let it dry. This way when you install the down pipe (numerous times during fitting of the super tight radius pipe) you won't knock the gasket out of alignment (keeping it centered on the exhaust hole.

Treblig

 

[Treblig]

Running very low on 340/360 manifolds. Only on set left in my inventory and no guarantees when I will get more. I do however have a few extra Dakota and 360 mag manifolds that are machined and still need sand blasting and paint. A deposit is required to hold your place in line (340/360) to keep others from getting upset. I also sell the properly flared stub down pipe and adapter flanges.

Thanks,
Treblig

 

[ralleyred]

Want to give a big thanks to Treblig for the manifolds. They look great and he is a good guy to talk to and deal with.

 

[Treblig]

Want to give a big thanks to Treblig for the manifolds. They look great and he is a good guy to talk to and deal with.

You're very welcome!! I spend a lot of time and money finding and prepping these manifolds and it makes me happy to help other FABO members.


I only have one 340/360 manifold set left in stock, first person to send a deposit will get it. Of course I also have extra "LARGE HOLE" Dakota driver and 360 mag passenger manifolds for use on other NON A body projects like: B-bodies, C-bodies, street rods, Mopar trucks, etc. The best flowing cast iron manifolds you can get IMHO!!!!
I also sell the rare 60s LARGE HOLE 340 driver which has been used on many early As here on FABO. These late 60s 340 manifolds have the same 2 1/4" exit hole but are sleeker and fit into the early As with less modifications, PICS UPON REQUEST.

thanks,
Treblig

 

[jeff1]

Thanks Treblig. Got the manifolds on Christmas eve. They were wrapped so well I just stuck them under the tree and opened the next day. Fitted them to engine this afternoon. Was really pleased with the effort you took on the finish. Looks nice. Using conical washers under all bolts. What torque have you had luck with on bolts. I think FSM calls for 30 ftlbs. Thanks again.

 

[Treblig]

Thanks Treblig. Got the manifolds on Christmas eve. They were wrapped so well I just stuck them under the tree and opened the next day. Fitted them to engine this afternoon. Was really pleased with the effort you took on the finish. Looks nice. Using conical washers under all bolts. What torque have you had luck with on bolts. I think FSM calls for 30 ftlbs. Thanks again.

30 lbs using anti-seize, except on the front and back bolts that are installed with high heat thread sealer (aviation thread sealer is what I use with good results). You're every welcome for the manifolds and I'm glad that they arrived as close to Xmas as possible. You should enjoy the manifolds for a very long time. Be sure to buy a short piece of super tight radius "MANDREL BENT" 2 1/4" or 2 3/8" J-tube or 180 tube for the area just above the driver's torsion bar. It should be 3 1/8" to 3 3/8" "MANDREL BENT" radius tubing. It will make it much, much easier to clear the torsion bar without hurting flow. Typical muffler shops crush the exhaust pipe badly when they try and make tight bends. SEE PICS

Thanks again,
Treblig

 

[Treblig]

I only have one 340/360 manifold set left in stock, first person to send a deposit will get it. Of course I also have extra "LARGE HOLE" Dakota driver and 360 mag passenger manifolds for use on other NON A body projects like: B-bodies, C-bodies, street rods, Mopar trucks, etc. The best flowing cast iron manifolds you can get IMHO!!!!
I also sell the rare 60s LARGE HOLE 340 driver which has been used on many early As here on FABO. These late 60s 340 manifolds have the same 2 1/4" exit hole but are sleeker and fit into the early As with less modifications, PICS UPON REQUEST.

thanks,
Treblig

 

[mopar56]

I noticed in some of your pictures you have some center dump manifolds but you dont mention them much, I am on this site because my youngest son has a Duster but MY project is a 56 Dodge truck on a 83 Dodge truck frame, its still going together and I am just trying to figure out my exhaust now, what I need is center dump on both sides, what I have got now is d/s from a "A" body 69/70 318 and p/s from a 80 Dodge truck 318 but they are the smaller exit, also I tried the later, (80,s) 318 center dump on the d/s of the truck but it is two thick at the end and touches the fire wall, ( remember this is a street rod), sooo.. my question, is the center dump you have a large diameter exit and tight, ( short bolt ) at the ends? , thanks

 

[Treblig]

I noticed in some of your pictures you have some center dump manifolds but you dont mention them much, I am on this site because my youngest son has a Duster but MY project is a 56 Dodge truck on a 83 Dodge truck frame, its still going together and I am just trying to figure out my exhaust now, what I need is center dump on both sides, what I have got now is d/s from a "A" body 69/70 318 and p/s from a 80 Dodge truck 318 but they are the smaller exit, also I tried the later, (80,s) 318 center dump on the d/s of the truck but it is two thick at the end and touches the fire wall, ( remember this is a street rod), sooo.. my question, is the center dump you have a large diameter exit and tight, ( short bolt ) at the ends? , thanks

Well in order to give you a clear answer I need to know if by "large diameter exit" you mean 1 7/8" or 2 1/4". Mopar cast iron manifolds came in a center dump style (70s 340 with 1 7/8" exit hole). The 360 magnum and Dakota are 2 1/4" exit hole but they are all rear dump. I just posted an example (see below) of a 340 close to center dump, but they do make some that are closer to a center dump, they are 1 7/8" exit hole (70s 340 manifold). I had a friend here in town that installed a large hole Dakota and a 360 magnum large hole manifold set on his 40 dodge truck (318 engine) and there was plenty of room. I also have an 80s 318/360 center dump manifold (third pic) with a exit hole that is a little larger than 1 7/8". As you probably already know...the standard 318 Low perf manifold is 1 5/8" exit hole.
Please let me know what you mean by "large diameter exit" and I'll help you as much as I can whether you but anything from me or not.


Thanks,
Treblig

 

[mopar56]

Ok, thanks Treblig, I should have clarified what I meant, so the manifold I have that works is part # 2843953 and it is a dead center dump with a 1 3/4" inside diameter date code stamped 1969, the truck manifold I have looks exactly like picture #3 you posted part# 4041466 and has the same dead center dump as yours with a 1 7/8" inside diameter, the manifold I would need looks exactly like the manifold you have pictured in the top left corner sitting on some plywood that you posted 12/30/14 just above, the reason I need this is because it is very thin at each end, if you compare the two you have you will see what I mean, in my application the cab of the truck sits very far forward on the frame so the rear of the manifold is inside the stock firewall causing clearance issues, ( I may be able to use headers to solve this but still would have to locate the right ones), also, again because of this being a truck and street rod application I HAVE to use center dumps on BOTH sides, I guess what I was hopeing here is that the one you have pictured in the top left of the plywood picture would have a larger inside diameter, OR maybe you could tell me if I could machine the one I have?, also, fyi, I can use the 80 truck manifold on the passenger side, not as many clearance issues, and lastly the engine I am using is a 1969 318 from a Dart, thanks for your help

 

[Treblig]

Ok, thanks Treblig, I should have clarified what I meant, so the manifold I have that works is part # 2843953 and it is a dead center dump with a 1 3/4" inside diameter date code stamped 1969, the truck manifold I have looks exactly like picture #3 you posted part# 4041466 and has the same dead center dump as yours with a 1 7/8" inside diameter, the manifold I would need looks exactly like the manifold you have pictured in the top left corner sitting on some plywood that you posted 12/30/14 just above, the reason I need this is because it is very thin at each end, if you compare the two you have you will see what I mean, in my application the cab of the truck sits very far forward on the frame so the rear of the manifold is inside the stock firewall causing clearance issues, ( I may be able to use headers to solve this but still would have to locate the right ones), also, again because of this being a truck and street rod application I HAVE to use center dumps on BOTH sides, I guess what I was hopeing here is that the one you have pictured in the top left of the plywood picture would have a larger inside diameter, OR maybe you could tell me if I could machine the one I have?, also, fyi, I can use the 80 truck manifold on the passenger side, not as many clearance issues, and lastly the engine I am using is a 1969 318 from a Dart, thanks for your help

The 2843953 casting number you are currently using is a standard 318 late 60s manifold, I had the same one on my 69 Barracuda when I purchased it, it should look like the bottom manifold in the first pic I just posted (1 5/8" exit hole). The manifold pictured in the 12/30 post is a 70s 340 center dump manifold and that style of manifold are all 1 7/8", I am currently sold out of these. Mopar did make a large hole (2 1/4") center dump 340 passenger manifold but they cost a small fortune...$300-$450 (bottom manifold in last pic).

Unfortunately you still didn't tell me what size you mean by "larger diameter"...but I will assume you mean 2 1/4" exit hole. If you're looking for performance you could easily grind or machine down the rear surface of a 360 mag or Dakota manifold since they are super thick (1 1/2" thick) and would not break or crack BUT they are not center dump!! Then you also have the option of using the LARGE HOLE 340 driver's manifold which has the 2 1/4" exit hole (see second pic) and is exactly the same shape as the 2843953 you are currently using . Then there's the late 60s 340 large hole (2 1/4") manifold that also has the same shape (design) but is a little sleeker (third pic) and less bulky (no ribs, more clearance). But again, it depends on whether you're looking for good flow and performance or just a manifold that will work.
Hope I'm helping you here??? Wish you could post a pic of your engine compartment in the exhaust/firewall area???
treblig

 

[mopar56]

Hi sorry to take so long to get back but I was in the shop all day with my son working on his Duster and installing a "go wing" I got him for Christmas, so I will do my best to post some pic's here to show the clearance issue I have, of the three pic's you sent only the top manifold in the top pic could work, you will see the style I have if my pic's turn out, and I can only use center dump, what I meant by large diameter is the largest I can get in that style as currently I have the 1 3/4 on the d/s and 17/8 on the p/s so if I can go bigger thats what I want or if you think there might be room to machine it bigger, thanks again for all the help

 

[mopar56]

ok, help, how do I post a picture on here?

 

[Treblig]

ok, help, how do I post a picture on here?

First you have to make sure the pics are in a JPEG format, in other words "small pictures" or not large with reference to size (Megabites). I use one of my old digital cameras (some members use their phones). On my digital camera I had to set it to JPEG so I get small pics. Then I download them to my PC. Then when you go to post something you look below the box (where you write your post) and you'll see a button that says "upload photos". You click on that button and the push on "browse" button to search for the pic in your PC. When you find the pic you double click on it and it will load. Then you browse again and load another. Once you've loaded all you want then you click on "upload" (in the browse box) and the pics will be uploaded to your post. You can click on "preview post" to see if it worked before you actually post what you have written.

Treblig

 

[mopar56]

pictures attatched?

 

[mopar56]

ok a bit confusing but figured it out, I always used quick reply, didnt realize I had to go to advanced

 

[Treblig]

It looks like there's enough room to me??

Here's what the large hole Dakota would look like installed on the engine (to give you some perspective). The only other large hole magnum is the Jeep driver but the exhaust flange hook up turns in toward the starter and I don't think it would work since the jeep 5.2 has the starter on the passenger side which leaves more space on the driver's side. If this one cleared the starter would it work??

treblig