You call yourself yellow ? (rose)
Your coming on way to strong, way to quickly. And to be honest all of your help got lost in your attitude.
let us recap- shall we ?
First I've never seen you on this forum and your telling me what I BETTER learn to do ?
And what to learn, what to look at?
You talk about streetable ? I only drive it on the street to test to make sure new parts work before I go to the dragstrip.
I'm sure your wife drives your car and I hope she enjoys it! My wife has her own and works on it and enjoys it (66 barracuda)
I think you're starting to get my point here that I'm not trying to make an enemy and I sure appreciate all of your help that it seems like your trying to give. please reread what you've written and read it as if its being said to you and see if that's the way you like being talked too?
I'm not going to be put in my place by a forum newbie and that's that! Let's work this out and help each other that's what the forms for.
How did you get your feeling hurt by what I posted? Did I put you in your place? I didn't think so, but this I can tell you, I have done what you are doing, where you are doing it, the same way you are doing it. It won't work. Is that hard to hear? Everything I posted was 100% correct. If you got your feelings hurt that's on you.
So let me recap: Forum duration and forum post count mean nothing to those who DO. How long I have been here, and how many times I post, is only relevent to one whose arrogance exceeds his ignorance (and possibly many need look up up the definition of those 2 words so no one else gets their feelings hurt) because forums are not where the real stuff happens. If you can't learn from me, that is your problem not mine.
My point about "streetability" had two functions, both already served. First, I knew, I f'ing well KNEW, that someone would come along and tell you how they "modified" some piece of crap clutch and how "wonderful" his stuff is and how he never breaks parts. I can tell you that may be, but he is giving up ET and "driveablity" and he just don't know it. He has never used a sintered iron disc and low base (static) pressure plate so how could he know? He never tried an aluminum FW or using counter weight to TUNE his clutch so how could he know? He doesn't. He never tests, never learns from thos who before him, trod the same ground. He's a hero, he'll cut his own path, reality be damned (that is actually me when I was younger and I try to help those who are coming along now ESPECIALLY the stick guys to not do and be the things I was). Proper medicine never tastes good.
Second, when I started doing this (probably before you were born, and I was probably doing my "stuff" in your very neighborhood now...in fact you'd be hard pressed from the Gut to Woodburn, St. Johns to Gresham and all points in between, to cover the ground I have been on...sound familiar???????????) the "hot ticket" was the green 3100# DC pressure plate with the 6 roller assist. If you had it in gear at a stop light you leg would twitch and shiver, sweat would build on the brow and my butt would pucker just trying to keep the pedal down. That JUNK broke thousands of dollars of parts, cost me money on a couple of runs and kept me from racing a few guys I knew I could take cash from. But I was slow to discern.
Then I went to Friction Supply (has a different name now) dropped the pressure to 2400#'s, lost the rag disc and went to "metallic" discs and went faster, but would still kill parts. It took me years to LEARN. Why is my telling you to LEARN a bad thing? Maybe you will pass it one to someone else. or maybe, you might save some money. If you LEARN how clutches function, rather than listen to a bunch of keyboard jockeys who have never tried anything labeled "racing" parts. Learn, learn, LEARN how this stuff WORKS. Someone said if you "slick shift" a gear box it's junk. That is wrong. Simple really. He is WRONG. You can do it, do it correctly, at home, for less than $100.00 (even less if you already own a grinder) and have a car that is street driveable and yet you can race it at the track. If you are bound and determined to be hard boiled about it, just slick shift it that way the books says and be done with it. The you can't street drive it, unless you can match RPM to road speed to down shift, and you don't mind holding the stick in gear.
Third, I read my post BEFORE I posted it, read it after, and read it again today. YOU have a problem, not me. If you want me to soothe your ego, like many here do, you have mistaken me for a poser. I don't soothe ego's, I'm way too old for that.
I respect someone who gives it to me straight. As they say, don't pee on my leg and tell me it's raining. That is what you are asking me to do. You made mistakes. I called you on them, not to embarrass you, but to get your attention. I can see you are more concerned with how you are percieved on the web, than how your car performs. I earn no money from you, I don't need your money to pay my bills so I don't have to treat you like a customer. I treated you like one racer to another, who has done what you are doing. And all you care about is the perceived wrong I did to you but being straight with you. That's on you.
Go back and reread what I posted. Then, get on the phone tomorrow and CALL some industry people who can tell you the truth. Indusrty people who manufacture actual RACING clutches and transmissions. People like McLeod, Hyatt clutches, Black Magic Clutches (Cale Aronson is BMC and does my clutches) Jercico transmissions (who will tell you straight up you CAN'T use more than 1400 pounds of base pressure on their trans or you will KILL it so even if you bought a Jerico and used you clutch you have now, you would still bust parts), call G-Force transmissions (always willing to help me with gear selection, FW weight and such, but I don't call them and tell them how smart I am, I tell them I'm lost and need to know how to fix it) Call Libertys Gears, they have ALWAYS been helpful to me, even when I wasn't using their rings and sliders. See what they say. But if you talk to them the way you reacted to me, none of it will help. I'm not the problem, just a small cog in the giant wheel of a solution for your problems.
Hopefully you read this and are starting to get my point. You judge me on how many "posts" I have, how "long" I have been here and junk like that. That's just silly. So let me give you a FINAL recap, and then I will leave you to your demons. Here it is:
You need a new clutch. Period.
It MUST be a sof-lok STYLE of clutch. PERIOD. (There are more than 1 way to skin a cat but you still have to skin the cat, right?)
You MUST figure out a way to get a HEAVY, sintered iron disc to shift above 6500 RPM or so unless your shift RPM is less than that. The only ways I KNOW are 3. Slick shift, Liberty Pro shift (very expensive) or face tooth (even more $$$$). I guess a 4th would be an aftermarket box, but without the correct clutch, you will kill it too.
You MUST LEARN how manual transmissions and CLUTCHES function, specifically in a clutch shifted operation. Clutchless boxes take a different clutch set up. Otherwise, you will follow the pied pipers right to the broken pile of parts.
When you are all done, and get it correct, you wife SHOULD be able to get into the car and drive it to the store. I know you think it's a race car and noting crosses over, but it does.
Reread my posts and tell me where I'm wrong, not in how I presented the materiel to you, but on content. If you want my help, I will surely give it. Unless you want me to fluff your ego. If that's what you want, then you can do as Stevie Nicks once sand. You can go your own way.
rayer: :banghead: lol for your time and help
