42RH / A-500 in a Duster with pictures.

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I was thinking of using a 200 4R, but after reading this thread, a 42RH seems like a better idea. While it appears that the A500/42RH was used beginning in 1988, what are the best years and applications to get cores?

BTW, this thread is great.
 
lrazor said:
I was thinking of using a 200 4R, but after reading this thread, a 42RH seems like a better idea. While it appears that the A500/42RH was used beginning in 1988, what are the best years and applications to get cores?

BTW, this thread is great.
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Later models have the stronger torque converter hub. I believe from 92' on, I could be wrong though. I went with a '95, I haven't carved into mine yet, but I'm willing to bet it has other goodies that will be helpful.
 
That is bad A$$ nice job!!! So to get a core out of the junk yard;what truck should i get the trans out of???? if you could help me out with that.......

Thanks.......................... PETE....................
 
So the 42RE has what kind of plug or how many pins??? I don't want to mess this up need help with this. Is there a number on the trans or just the plug thing.Thank you guys for all the help i don't have a lot of money so i have to get this right the first time... Any and all info will help...........So we are looking for a 42RH correct ........

Thanks ............................... PETE .......................................
 
Look at the trans picture on the second page of this thread- There is a 3 pin plug, natural in color near the neutral safety switch. The 32/42/44 RE transmissions have a black round plug there with 8 pins and are to be avoided. They have an electronic "governor" and is useless for this application. People have had good luck running the earlier version called the A-500, depending on what you are going to do with the car and level of power that could be an option in case you don't find a 42RH. It can have upgrades done to it as well but it is best to start with the best revision in my opinion.
 

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All the pics are a fuzzy as to the tranny clearance to the fabbed in crossmember. Would anyone have a close guesstimate on that? Also dinging in the floorpan ahead of the crossmember was mentioned. Can any of the original crossmember be left in place? I think I have figured out a way to keep most of the original metal and reinforce the it from inside the car. How bad would anyone object to a 1/2 to 3/4 by 2" lump over the tunnel? Even less with some heat pad on either side. I think it would be very strong plus fairly quick and easy. I am taking pics but as yet haven't mastered posting them. That is one of my next projects(pics). Trying to do as much preliminary work as possible to limit lift time as I will have to tow/use someone elses.

Thanks guys.
 
dartjack said:
All the pics are a fuzzy as to the tranny clearance to the fabbed in crossmember. Would anyone have a close guesstimate on that?
Click to expand...

Well since you are fabricating the crossmember its what ever you want it to be.

In my case about 3/8" maybe a touch more.

Also dinging in the floorpan ahead of the crossmember was mentioned.
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Yes, so the engine maintained the exact same location and angles as factory.

Can any of the original crossmember be left in place?
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Not really unless you want to cut up the floor and change the drivetrain angle which opens up a slew of problems. You won't be able to use the inner holes anyways due to the width of the overdrive unit.
 
Thanks. By crossmember I was refering to the Chassis component not the trans support(lower) crossmember. When you added the 1/4" support over the tranny how much clearance was left between it and the trans? I'm hoping to do the reinforcement inside through the floor. It will protrude up about 3/4". See the pics in my thread about the size and location. My use of a lift is very limited and I would like to do as much on the ground as possible before "borrowing" a lift. I know most of the original structure will have to go. Just interested in how much can remain and still have reasonable clearance.
Thanks again.
 
I found 1/2" from the outside of the last bolt hole that remains to the end. Start big, end small. I didn't need a lift.
 
gdonovan said:
The overdrive unit is too large, there is no room for the bellcrank through the floor plus no mounting bracket for the tab on the other end.
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Gearing up to do this A500 swap (have found lots of great information in this thread - thanks!) this shifter option discussion caught my attension.
Is this the final word on this - couldn't the shifter controls be modded to fit?

I might be mixing things up here, assuming console shifter is the same as standard floor shifter... am I?

I have a console automatic car ('75 Dart Sport) and would really like to keep everything looking stock. Has anyone solved this allready?
If there is no ready solution yet - does anyone hav a good suggestion on alternatives?

Thanks, Bengt
 
I haven't done it but I'm sure I could. Changing the OEM hard linkage operation to cable operation would provide ample routing options.
 
Awesome thread. Subscribed for future reference.

GDonovan,
What part of Connecticut are you from? Always cool to see threads from local members.

-Mike
 
I don't think the A500 has the mounting lugs for the lower bracket needed for the factory style console linkage.
 
Thanks Chief and RedFish.

Cable is probably a very good way to go.
I wasn't thinking cable at all - more like doing som custom bell crank setup, so this was a great push in a better direction!

Thanks.
 
This has been really good thread. Planning to do this swap this winter soon as I get transmission where I live.
Planning to upgrade my 318 at same time, better compression bit more torgue and od to get good mpg.

I am planning to use that adjustable pressure switch and swich in gas pedal to disconnect od when wot. No need for vacuum switch.
 
dartjack said:
Thanks. By crossmember I was refering to the Chassis component not the trans support(lower) crossmember. When you added the 1/4" support over the tranny how much clearance was left between it and the trans?
Click to expand...

Not really sure, was only tight in one spot I think at the top.
 
hanging10 said:
I might be mixing things up here, assuming console shifter is the same as standard floor shifter... am I?

I have a console automatic car ('75 Dart Sport) and would really like to keep everything looking stock. Has anyone solved this allready?
If there is no ready solution yet - does anyone hav a good suggestion on alternatives?

Thanks, Bengt
Click to expand...

There is a guy with an e-body he managed to keep the console shifter so it can be done. Not sure if it can be done on an a-body though, things are a little tighter.

Check over on the moparts board, might be in the FAQ section under transmissions.
 
DartJack,

Check out the thread with the title "Will GM 200R4 work with factory floor shifter" (it's about 15-20 on the front page of Drivetrain and Transmission). I own a '69 barracuda with factory auto console and am in the process of mocking up the 200R4 to fit in my car. I don't think your using 200R4 but you're going to run into the same problem I have with the linkage. I want to keep my stock console and shifter. I can get some measurements that might help you. If you look at some of the pics I posted you can easily see the problem and the possible solutions.
Let me know if you need more specifics and I'll try and help.

Treblig
 
=D>What a great thread!!!!!! I have been following this thread very closely. I want to also install the A500 out of my 91 DAK in my 70 DART. A Question was raised about the total drop in rpm at cruise.
IF I remember correctly the final drive ratio on the 500 was .69. The math shows for example that original cruise at 3500 would drop to 2415 which is a difference of 1085 rpm.
I don't remember exactly how much the converter lockup dropped it but it seems that it was 200 rpm at best. Grand total APPROXIMATELY 1285 rpm which would give a final ratio of .64 which for me would justify the expense .

OF course mileage is dependent on many other variables but I had a buddy with a Chevy truck who lost his OD and he went from 21 to 15 mpg.
 
dustoff440 said:
Grand total APPROXIMATELY 1285 rpm which would give a final ratio of .64 which for me would justify the expense .
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There are so many benefits to the mod besides simple MPG. The car is so much quieter now that the engine is turning fewer RPM, there is less engine wear and you can drive much faster ;-)

I'm working on a new wiring diagram which incorporates another switch, what I call the "high speed override" which will shift you into overdrive if even at WOT when you exceed a certain speed.
 
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