65 Dart Wagon Conversion to a Sedan Delivery
- Thread starter 65 Dartman
- Start date
-
I am trying isopropyl alcohol and in fact getting ready to blow it out this morning. For the price of that flush you linked, I think it would be worth trying it. Thanks for the info!
i forgot to post pictures after I got the backup lights installed so I figured what better time to take pics than after cleaning the taillight main bezels and installing them. Some might ask why 2 backup lights? The lower one IS the backup light; the upper (or the one built in to the taillight len is for the turn signal). It will have an amber bulb. The back end looks so much better with the taillights installed. My wife said they stand out against the white paint!
Last edited:
I really don’t like rusty fasteners - especially exterior ones like the ones that secure the chrome taillight brackets screwed to the body that hold the actual taillights. Even though that bracket has a gasket to help seal the housing, they still manage to get rusty. Even though they’re not seen, I’ll know they’re rusty! The OEM 8x32 machine screws that secure the taillights to the aforementioned brackets aren’t much better in appearance. So I took one of each to Lowes and picked up some comparable sized stainless steel screws and machine bolts.
and swapped all the old hardware out. Did the same thing for the hardware securing the new backup lights below the taillights.
While on the stainless hardware, I installed nutserts where the 66 Barracuda fender-mounted turn signals are secured to the fenders and got them installed but not yet tied into the engine harness. I used #8-32 machine screws to secure the housings.
In preparation for installing the interior panels where the rear speakers will be mounted, installed and soldered new connectors to the speaker harness I previously constructed. Also, each rear speaker - a Pioneer 6x9 - needed a 1/8th inch mini-connector that none of the local stores carried. If they had, i would have just made the harnesses. So I found a mini-harness kit on-line that fit the bill. Each harness got connectors as well. It seems it’s all the little things that take up the time.
and swapped all the old hardware out. Did the same thing for the hardware securing the new backup lights below the taillights.
While on the stainless hardware, I installed nutserts where the 66 Barracuda fender-mounted turn signals are secured to the fenders and got them installed but not yet tied into the engine harness. I used #8-32 machine screws to secure the housings.
In preparation for installing the interior panels where the rear speakers will be mounted, installed and soldered new connectors to the speaker harness I previously constructed. Also, each rear speaker - a Pioneer 6x9 - needed a 1/8th inch mini-connector that none of the local stores carried. If they had, i would have just made the harnesses. So I found a mini-harness kit on-line that fit the bill. Each harness got connectors as well. It seems it’s all the little things that take up the time.
When installing door panels, door panel clips are used. I looked at that option for the rear panels that are behind the front seats. I decided clips really wouldn’t be feasible in this instance. 30’s and 40’s cars used screws with finishing washers so that’s what I decided to use (stainless steel screws and finishing washers of course) along both sides. The bottom is secured by screws and flat washers hidden under the bottom of the carpet. Got the speaker wires connected to the rear speaker harness and speakers installed.
Passenger side:
Driver’s side:
The 270 wagon has a 3 piece aluminum trim set between the taillights similar to the 270 model car line on the trunk.
I have been thinking about alternatives to replace the damaged aluminum tailgate trim. All three pieces - 2 short ones between the taillights and PW bezel and the long one at the bottom - have dents or serious damage:
I suppose I could try to repair the damage or send it out to get it repaired and re-anodized (but that cost money!). So i dug out all the trim I’ve accumulated over the years. Some 65 Valiant stainless steel side trim looks like it might work
Afrer some measuring and careful cutting and trimming, I now have stainless steel tailgate trim donated by a 65 Valiant
I decided to make all the brightwork stand out, so I masked off all the white other than between the trim and painted it in satin black. I’ve got one additional piece if trim yet to install in the middle, which 65dartcharger is helping me on that. Finally got the DODGE letters installed below the long trim. As soon as I received the other piece of trim, I can install the motor, wiring and associated parts and get the tailgate on the car.
Passenger side:
Driver’s side:
The 270 wagon has a 3 piece aluminum trim set between the taillights similar to the 270 model car line on the trunk.
I have been thinking about alternatives to replace the damaged aluminum tailgate trim. All three pieces - 2 short ones between the taillights and PW bezel and the long one at the bottom - have dents or serious damage:
I suppose I could try to repair the damage or send it out to get it repaired and re-anodized (but that cost money!). So i dug out all the trim I’ve accumulated over the years. Some 65 Valiant stainless steel side trim looks like it might work
Afrer some measuring and careful cutting and trimming, I now have stainless steel tailgate trim donated by a 65 Valiant
I decided to make all the brightwork stand out, so I masked off all the white other than between the trim and painted it in satin black. I’ve got one additional piece if trim yet to install in the middle, which 65dartcharger is helping me on that. Finally got the DODGE letters installed below the long trim. As soon as I received the other piece of trim, I can install the motor, wiring and associated parts and get the tailgate on the car.
Last edited:
R4Sedan
Larry
Looks great how you did the finish panel.
I think the whole tailgate will really pop after I get the final piece if trim!
Keith Mopar
Mopar Nut
Wow that tail gate is awesome. Dam that trim makes it look real good!
getting close
Closer, not close lol!
Looking Goooood !
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
@65 Dartman Love the thread, just caught up.
To answer your question about the remote keyless entry. I have the same kit and I installed my antenna under the drivers dash, and I have no trouble with the antenna reading the fob. You could test yours by installing it where its hidden, with some double stick tape and standing back some ways and testing it. I don't see it being an issue.
Also, question - I want to do the power windows like 66vert did on the cheap. What motors did you get from Amazon?
Thanks and again, nice job!
To answer your question about the remote keyless entry. I have the same kit and I installed my antenna under the drivers dash, and I have no trouble with the antenna reading the fob. You could test yours by installing it where its hidden, with some double stick tape and standing back some ways and testing it. I don't see it being an issue.
Also, question - I want to do the power windows like 66vert did on the cheap. What motors did you get from Amazon?
Thanks and again, nice job!
Thanks for following along; appreciate it!
i have not installed mine yet. I wish I had some room under the dash! I have several relays, some specialized Dakota Digital modules and a fuse box already under there and still need room someplace for an auxiliary fuse block, my Dakota Digital instrument cluster module, the power lock module. The AC vent sure takes up a lot of real estate! I might need to rework the dash!
Speaking of power locks - my wife saw me looking at a kit from A1 Auto that didn’t require an antenna and locked/unlocked the door when the vehicle was started or ignition turned off. Guess what I got for Christmas? I’ll have to compare the US sourced kit vs the Chinese kit!
i ordered the late 80’s/early 90’s truck motors from Rock Auto. They are 2 wire (up and down) just like my tailgate motor. Funny thing is I can get neither one to do anything. I mounted the passenger one to that regulator like 66vert did. Prior to installing it in the door, more testing and nothing. Bad Chinese motor? Possibly. But both of them? Obviously I might be doing something wrong in the wiring; however, set up the same way on my tailgate motor, that motor moves the arms up and down like a champ. I’ve moved on to other parts of the build for the time being.
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
I assume the two wore is just power and ground? I was under the impression that the switch controlled the up and down.
I’ve tried it that way and with the switch from A1Electric (which has the power wire (red) and a ground wire (black) and a pair of wires going to each motor with a ground to the motor. I’ll keep at it
Typically, if you supply 12 volts to the one wire and ground to the other, the motor spins in one direction. Reverse polarity on the wires & the motor spins in reverse. The switch controls an "H-Bridge" with 4 MOSFETs (or transistors). The switch will trigger the Gates on one high-side and the opposite low-side MOSFET.
Thanks to @kursplat the AC flush he referred to me, I asked my closest NAPA to order some of the AC flush. They ordered 4 so I picked up 2 cans yesterday based on the old counterguy’s recommendation for flushing both the evaporator and condenser.
I had ordered this flush kit from Amazon so we’ll see what happens
I had ordered this flush kit from Amazon so we’ll see what happens
@mpgmike I tried direct positive and negative leads to the motors and they do work as you described. So I’m thinking it must be in the switch or the wiring harness I bought. other than one terminal, the switch terminals aren’t making contact with the wiring. I’ll contact tomorrow the company I bought the harness/switch from and see what they have to say (even though it’s been awhile)
Last edited:
Update on switch and wiring harness I bought from A1 Electric awhile back. In talking with a representative, it seems the switch and harness plug were assembled wrong and no one ever caught it because there were no actual instructions with it on the assembly, I guess because it was already assembled!. The rep told me to plug the switch into what appears ti be the back side of of the harness. Did so and the motors work as the should with the switch. Moving on to the next project!
Last edited:
plumkrazee70
Well-Known Member
Nice! Have you installed/modified the door regulators, yet?
I’ve got one modified but I think i need to do some “adjustment” on it. After I do so, I’ll post some pics
Last edited:
Comin right along. You'll be drivin down the road fore long.
it sure would be nice. Hopefully it won’t take another 2-3 years. Still got the 47 to do in my old age lol!
Last edited:
Finished with the adjustments I needed to make on the passenger door regulator so it’s ready to install with the motor attached
Both UPS and USPS delivered goodies today. UPS delivered my tailgate upper and lower weatherstriping from Quiery Quality Design, who bought out Gary Goers. Both are spot on as to the materials, exact placement of the mounting clips, length, you name it, a perfect reproduction of needed parts for us early A wagon owners. Then USPS delivered my NOS right body side NOS taillight assembly. Now all 4 lenses will be NOS with 3 of the 4 housings being also NOS. Yes, i immediately installed it!
Last edited:
-
