67/68/69 cuda dilemma

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And more CARnage, and a scrap pile again. LoL the guy beat the rear seat mount hooks flat too. I took care of that with my trusty knipex plyers. Decided to take the opportunity to template out the reverse lights on our new rear valance before pitching the old one. Installing a dual exhaust valance. I figure if we are gonna go through the trouble of changing it, might as well be the cooler one. Pic #3 you can see where they cut out the roof support structure. It's still a box shape. I will be fabricating all that out of flat sheet stock when I finally cut the quarter skins off for for good to replace them.

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Once I do my framerail repairs, i will attach the leaf springs and rear axle and push her outside for a good sandblasting of everything that's exposed before I close it back up.

I see you have quarter windows in there, roll them up and mask them before you sandblast!
 
Yep, way ahead of you. I am planning on using cardstock and duct tape, as well as removing everything else I can unbolt. I plan on redoing the window regulators when I have the quarter skins off.
 
Yep, way ahead of you. I am planning on using cardstock and duct tape, as well as removing everything else I can unbolt. I plan on redoing the window regulators when I have the quarter skins off.
I would like to get a good look at them when you have the quarters off. I have the passenger side together on mine, but it is really difficult to see in there. It is binding and I'm trying to figure out why. It was such a pain I would highly recommend doing them with the quarters off! The notch quarter window is a special kind of hell.
 
Ok no problem. That is the plan. I figure I can mark the mounting nut locations, then remove these as complete assemblies and reinstall as complete assemblies with fresh grease, and new rollers lined up in exactly the same spots as I removed them.
 
Ok no problem. That is the plan. I figure I can mark the mounting nut locations, then remove these as complete assemblies and reinstall as complete assemblies with fresh grease, and new rollers lined up in exactly the same spots as I removed them.

Lots of pictures! The depth of the adjustment on the nuts is also important. Took me a while to get everything lined up how I liked. I'm just perplexed by the binding. I need to take a good look and make sure something isn't off track.
 
Sometimes it's the little parts you cant buy that you have to reuse, or in my case have to make because they are missing. First pic is outboard rear seatbelt mount on my 67 coupe. These are missing on the 69, and scamp transition pan doesnt have outboard belts located here. I reused the anchor seatbelt plates from the old trans tunnel I scrapped. A little sandblast, machinest dye, and a circle template in the correct diameter. Viola, all I have to do is cut em out and bevel the edges. First pic is my 67 coupe anchors for location.

Next thing I got to make is the parking brake left side aft framerail bracket that holds both cables. That was removed and tossed when they relocated the springs. I will be making a copy of it templating off my 67s bracket.

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Good, steady progress on everything from whole body sections, down to the small stuff that is hard to remember or think of. Until you try and put the seats in anyway, lol.
 
Well these are done. Next up will be the parking brake cable bracket fab as soon as I get dimensions off the one that's on my 67 coupe. Also dug through my steel collection and have some .078" or 14 gage steel sheet. Actually its 14 gage primered C channel left over from when my shop was built. Same gage thickness as the framerails so I will be using it to repair them.

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Ok, so I guess it's time to dive in on the biggest part of the unfucking process on this thing, the removal of the spring relocation modification. I have studied this for some time, now that I got this all peeled open. Originally was going to leave it but the weld job is hokey, and we are going to run the stock spring locations anyways.

So, the framerails measured out at .078" on a caliper. This equates to 14 gage. I had some leftover 14 gage scraps from when my shop was built, so I templated out of cardstock using my 67s rails as a guide for the shape I needed them to be and got cutting. I also made some framerail temporary reinforcements out of old junk bed frame rail leftovers from my welding rig frame I made.

The old subframe connectors made a great attaching point. Framerails are both supported at the rear, and temporary braced. I will look this over one more time and weld more bracing if need be before I cut these old spring relocators out. However, I think being that the rails are supported at the very back end by the stands, and the temp bracing is on either side of the cut, I really doubt theres going to be any stress or movement in these areas when I cut them out. Planning on cutting these relocators out tonight.

Also a PSA, No vintage MoPars were harmed in the making of these framerail sections. LoL

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This one spring mount was a ***** to cut out. Using a cutoff wheel to surgically remove it. Got one side of one framerail trimmed up and temp fitted. Happy with the progress so far.

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Well I got most of the LH rail done. Still a bit more finish welding, but my bottle ran out of gas. I am very pleased with it. Still have to strap it on the inside in a few spots, and run one more bead on the outer side. Will punch a drain hole in the stock location. Once the rails get sandblasted I will put a skim coat of JB weld over these to smooth them into the frame, and shoot it with 2k epoxy. At least now I have a spot to add the parking brake cable bracket i have yet to make. Some of you may be wondering why I left a right angle on the side repair pieces. I did that to stiffen them up a bit and give me something to weld to since trying to weld inside a framerail is a bit tough. 4th pic shows how the weld on inside and outside in these areas really stiffens up this attachment joint.

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Was a bit spent from the LH rail so I figured I'd tinker a little on the RH one while my bottle is at Airgas getting filled. Figure if I get it all prepped then all I got to do is stitch it together when I get it back. I had to cut the repair plate for the inboard side about 3/4" longer to rid myself of the birdshit welds. I prefer cleaning up the metal and hitting it with machinests dye, and scribing cut marks. Works well for me. Buttweld clamps work great too. Will edit and add pix of the other side of the RH framerail if I get it that far along tonight.

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Getting to where I am adding to this car instead of cutting **** off it. My demolition pile wasnt a pile today at all, just a few trimmings. I need to make a parking brake cable mount since it was missing. Templated this off the one on my 67. Use some 2" square tube for the angle bracket.

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Fabbed up the rear brake cable bracket, and ran bottom strap number 2 for the RH framerail repair through the slip ring roller at work during lunch. Did the same with LH one just forgot to mention it. Cable bracket is same thickness as the OEM but doesnt have a rolled lip like the OEM shown in previous pics. It's pretty stout, however I am trying to decide if I want to weld on small triangle gussets at either end to stiffen it up

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Not too much tonight. Weeknights it's kinda hard to do anything so just a final trim and fit on the bottom strap, and some triangle gussets for the parking brake cable bracket

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Not too much tonight. Weeknights it's kinda hard to do anything so just a final trim and fit on the bottom strap, and some triangle gussets for the parking brake cable bracket

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Make sure the gussets don't get in the way of the retaining clips; maybe mount it so the bend and gussets are on the side away from the clips to make it easier. Sorry if that is obvious, just little details like that sometimes get overlooked.
 
Way ahead of you. I test fit a spare cable, and theres a whole lot of room actually more room than the OEM which has that lip around the perimeter making it harder with the clips.
 
Well the RH frame repair is in. I still got a lot of grinding to get it all smooth, but that's for another day. I just wanted it together and the temporary bracing gone I also repaired the damaged RH and LH outboard framerail flanges. Only the RH is shown, but you get the idea.

I also seam welded the FWD spring perch mount gussets together, to the framerail, and to the inner rocker on the top where I could get to it before the transition pan gets put down. Torque boxes are great, and I will fabricate and install a set on this car using the templates I had to make a set for my 67. However it's not every day you can get to the top side and stiffen these areas up.

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Well the RH frame repair is in. I still got a lot of grinding to get it all smooth, but that's for another day. I just wanted it together and the temporary bracing gone I also repaired the damaged RH and LH outboard framerail flanges. Only the RH is shown, but you get the idea.

I also seam welded the FWD spring perch mount gussets together, to the framerail, and to the inner rocker on the top where I could get to it before the transition pan gets put down. Torque boxes are great, and I will fabricate and install a set on this car using the templates I had to make a set for my 67. However it's not every day you can get to the top side and stiffen these areas up.

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That's awesome work Matt, but I was hoping you'd have one of your new console wiring harnesses installed by tonight. J/K
 
Doesnt look like much got accomplished from this view, but there was a lot done today. Coffee did keep me going.

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