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Impressive as hell!!!
I think if you brace it, it will be fine as long as nobody pushes or pulls against it.
So I decided to tackle the fab of the fwd LH framerail top cap. Same gage steel as the other piece. I decided I would weld them in at the same time when ready. Anyhoo this one has a step or joggle in the metal. How I did this was with a heavy duty shop press, 2 heavy steel plates, and thinner sheetmetal placed on top on one side and on bottom on the other taped in place with a small space between the 2 to allow the shop press to press the metal into a step or joggle. Pic #5 you can see the step in the original original piece, and the new stamped piece held under it. I was careful to not joggle the metal past the slot I cut where the side had to get bent 90° up, and bent the side up 90° afterwards. I then welded up the slot i cut for the step to be pressed, and ground a radius in it. I also picked up this duplicolor etch primer that I am liking a lot for repairs such as this. Follow along with the pix to get a better idea how this was done. I still have to clean out the inside of the framerail under where this section goes, then apply some Por15 and epoxy primer, but that wont take very long to do.
The etch primer that's my new best friend on spot repairs.
A little recap on how bad this part of the car was, and where it's at now. Yes it's time consuming, but anything worth doing is worth doing 100%
I use it as well.
Well the framerail repair is done. Very happy with it. Or as we say in my line of work "just like factory". Going to turn my attention to the next project.
Next project. Replace the tortured looking lower radiator support with something better and stronger. I roughly hacked it off so I wouldent get any crazy ideas about trying to hammer this thing back out. Keeping the small corner pieces from it to help close out the ends. Note taped on bubble level on the upper radiator support, and bolted in temporary bracing. Car is square, and upper support is nice and level.
Got about 7 more hours out there today. Made great progress on the radiator support. Everythings clamped and nice and level. Once I have the rectangle end caps made for the section I'm boxing in, I will probably go ahead and weld it up. I gave myself just a hair under 1/4" gap under the radiator. This new radiator support sits just slightly lower than the stock radiator support. This will allow me to bolt on a stock licence plate mount, and the radiator support to K frame brace although as beefy as this is, that part is probably not needed anymore. I plan to radius the bottom corners in a similar fashion to what I did with mine on the 67, as well as punch some 3/4" drain holes in the bottom. The 1" access holes on the inner boxing piece for the lower latch support mount bolts are that specific diameter by design. Once everything is installed lined up and painted, I will snap some plastic body plugs over the holes to keep dirt and junk out.
A must read for anyone tackling a 2nd gen cuda. Great write up Matt.
Thanks Steve. A lot of this would apply to really any A body. Trying to take lots of pix as I go. I really hope besides providing enjoyment, that this thread helps others out with the same or similar issues..
Its my plan to go through this whole thread again when starting my Barracuda.
Things are a little slow here at work right before the Christmas holiday, so during lunch I have been doing a bit of small parts sandblasting. Used a thin coat of etch primer on everything to prevent flash rust. 2 of the welded nutplates on the upright are pretty rough. I have a couple not rusted spares. I may change those 2 out like I did with the ones on the radiator support a few pages back. May bring the hood hinges to work tomorrow and drop em in sand blaster at lunchtime too.
You are literally rebuilding your car, I guess there is not a single piece you haven't touched at least two-three times - nice job. Cheers Wolfgang
It's an OCD thing. Thank you for noticing. My buddy refers to my shop as Dodge Main South. This is one my son and I are working on for him. Leave no stone unturned if you can help it, and give it 110%.
i like the 'diy' cleco's neil.
Yep Neil, clecos are the best. I have a box full of em in my welding cart sheetmetal drawer. Button type, and draw wingnut type. Button type are only $4.50 a dozen might as well have a few dozen of each size at that price. I find the #40 drill clecos the most useful as it's easier to tack weld over those holes when done. I get them from aircraft tool supply places such as www.browntool.com , or www.theyardstore.com
Well never a dull moment in the shop. I did a bit of work yesterday, and this morning. Made the end caps for the boxed in crossmember, welded it together and took about an hour to grind it all smooth. I clamped a piece of 1&1/2" thick wall box tubing to the crossmember and used 4 clamps when welding it to prevent heat distortion. I also fitted the overflow reservoir. Had to make a riser for it out of 1" square tube so the hose sits nice and level. On the framerail top cap I will likely drill 2 mounting holes, and a couple rosette weld holes and weld up a plate inside the framerail with 2 nuts welded on it for the overflow tank. I also repositioned the lower horn by drilling another tab hole, and flipping the bracket 180°. Then I just loosened the horn mounting nut and rotated the horn so it points downward. I will fill the old hole with weld and grind it down. I did similar with my 67 when mocking up the radiator and overflow tank.
The Dorman replacement Hyundai Tiburon overflow bottle setup with a NOS hyundai Tiburon mounting bracket mounted to a 1" piece of square tube.
Ok I found it
Some more welding, and I whacked the excess off the uprights, radiused the ends very scientifically with a roll of tape as a guide, popped in some 1" drain holes, and the two 1" lower radiator support to frame holes like the OEM had. Those front holes will get body plugs, but are perfect for applying corrosion inhibitor to the inside of the front frame rails when done. Also cut out the bottom of the uprights where they mate to the crossmember to allow for water drainage. A bit more to go including rolling some 14 gage sheetmetal to cap the radiused ends. This thing actually looks professionally built lol. Hoping to get far enough along with it to hopefully install it for good by this weekend
14 gage rolled today. That's some thick shit to crank through a slip ring roller. Cut out my end caps, sandblasted, and etch primered. Hope to get to welding the caps and grinding them down soon. Nice working on clean primered stuff.
I picked these up from summit. I also needed an oil pickup tube and a new Summit hat. Was able to hit the $100 mark for free shipping. No summit decals, so I'm kinda bummed. These are Hella 7" H6024 H4 replacements. Really really nice lamps for the money. $77 for the pair.
Got a bit more done today. The lower radiator support itself is finally fully welded and is finally ready to install. Now I have to grind off the surface rust that's on the framerails, and radiator support side panels where all this is going to attach , get it prepped and sprayed up with weld thru primer. Dig those dead sexy corners.