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I use it as well.
Well the framerail repair is done. Very happy with it. Or as we say in my line of work "just like factory". Going to turn my attention to the next project.
Next project. Replace the tortured looking lower radiator support with something better and stronger. I roughly hacked it off so I wouldent get any crazy ideas about trying to hammer this thing back out. Keeping the small corner pieces from it to help close out the ends. Note taped on bubble level on the upper radiator support, and bolted in temporary bracing. Car is square, and upper support is nice and level.
Got about 7 more hours out there today. Made great progress on the radiator support. Everythings clamped and nice and level. Once I have the rectangle end caps made for the section I'm boxing in, I will probably go ahead and weld it up. I gave myself just a hair under 1/4" gap under the radiator. This new radiator support sits just slightly lower than the stock radiator support. This will allow me to bolt on a stock licence plate mount, and the radiator support to K frame brace although as beefy as this is, that part is probably not needed anymore. I plan to radius the bottom corners in a similar fashion to what I did with mine on the 67, as well as punch some 3/4" drain holes in the bottom. The 1" access holes on the inner boxing piece for the lower latch support mount bolts are that specific diameter by design. Once everything is installed lined up and painted, I will snap some plastic body plugs over the holes to keep dirt and junk out.
A must read for anyone tackling a 2nd gen cuda. Great write up Matt.
Thanks Steve. A lot of this would apply to really any A body. Trying to take lots of pix as I go. I really hope besides providing enjoyment, that this thread helps others out with the same or similar issues..
Its my plan to go through this whole thread again when starting my Barracuda.
Things are a little slow here at work right before the Christmas holiday, so during lunch I have been doing a bit of small parts sandblasting. Used a thin coat of etch primer on everything to prevent flash rust. 2 of the welded nutplates on the upright are pretty rough. I have a couple not rusted spares. I may change those 2 out like I did with the ones on the radiator support a few pages back. May bring the hood hinges to work tomorrow and drop em in sand blaster at lunchtime too.
You are literally rebuilding your car, I guess there is not a single piece you haven't touched at least two-three times - nice job. Cheers Wolfgang
It's an OCD thing. Thank you for noticing. My buddy refers to my shop as Dodge Main South. This is one my son and I are working on for him. Leave no stone unturned if you can help it, and give it 110%.
i like the 'diy' cleco's neil.
Yep Neil, clecos are the best. I have a box full of em in my welding cart sheetmetal drawer. Button type, and draw wingnut type. Button type are only $4.50 a dozen might as well have a few dozen of each size at that price. I find the #40 drill clecos the most useful as it's easier to tack weld over those holes when done. I get them from aircraft tool supply places such as www.browntool.com , or www.theyardstore.com
Well never a dull moment in the shop. I did a bit of work yesterday, and this morning. Made the end caps for the boxed in crossmember, welded it together and took about an hour to grind it all smooth. I clamped a piece of 1&1/2" thick wall box tubing to the crossmember and used 4 clamps when welding it to prevent heat distortion. I also fitted the overflow reservoir. Had to make a riser for it out of 1" square tube so the hose sits nice and level. On the framerail top cap I will likely drill 2 mounting holes, and a couple rosette weld holes and weld up a plate inside the framerail with 2 nuts welded on it for the overflow tank. I also repositioned the lower horn by drilling another tab hole, and flipping the bracket 180°. Then I just loosened the horn mounting nut and rotated the horn so it points downward. I will fill the old hole with weld and grind it down. I did similar with my 67 when mocking up the radiator and overflow tank.
The Dorman replacement Hyundai Tiburon overflow bottle setup with a NOS hyundai Tiburon mounting bracket mounted to a 1" piece of square tube.
Ok I found it
Some more welding, and I whacked the excess off the uprights, radiused the ends very scientifically with a roll of tape as a guide, popped in some 1" drain holes, and the two 1" lower radiator support to frame holes like the OEM had. Those front holes will get body plugs, but are perfect for applying corrosion inhibitor to the inside of the front frame rails when done. Also cut out the bottom of the uprights where they mate to the crossmember to allow for water drainage. A bit more to go including rolling some 14 gage sheetmetal to cap the radiused ends. This thing actually looks professionally built lol. Hoping to get far enough along with it to hopefully install it for good by this weekend
14 gage rolled today. That's some thick shit to crank through a slip ring roller. Cut out my end caps, sandblasted, and etch primered. Hope to get to welding the caps and grinding them down soon. Nice working on clean primered stuff.
I picked these up from summit. I also needed an oil pickup tube and a new Summit hat. Was able to hit the $100 mark for free shipping. No summit decals, so I'm kinda bummed. These are Hella 7" H6024 H4 replacements. Really really nice lamps for the money. $77 for the pair.
Got a bit more done today. The lower radiator support itself is finally fully welded and is finally ready to install. Now I have to grind off the surface rust that's on the framerails, and radiator support side panels where all this is going to attach , get it prepped and sprayed up with weld thru primer. Dig those dead sexy corners.
Any surface rust under where this crossmember laps in has been removed to clean bare steel. Weld thru primer has been applied. Ready for welding tomorrow, or when I can get to it actually.
Happy New Years everybody. Started snowing and freezing rain yesterday. I woke up this morning to this. Maybe it's a sign. A fresh new snowfall to wash away the old year. One can only hope.
So I had this 67 slant sux K frame. Awhile back I built a jig to convert it to V8, and I also lopped off that 1 year only bastard child idler arm mount. The improved mount is from 68-76. So I finally got around to making a jig off a 68-76 A body K frame to locate the 68 up mount i do have exactly. Now I can bolt it up tight and weld it in without any fear of geometry issues. I may only use it one time, but at least I have it in case I convert another K frame or need to check for straightness. Heres pix.
Welded in, done ! This thing is strong enough that I can stand my 220 pound fat ass on it, and it wont bend. The bomb proof lower radiator support LoL. I did not attach the pass side framerail at the top. You can see two 1/4" holes unfilled. That's actually on purpose. I intend to make a repair piece to repair the front top cap on that rail including the front tab, and spotweld 2 nuts to the underside for my overflow bottle bracket. But for now heres current pix.
at first i couldn't work out where the 2 1/4" holes were, then it dawned on me they're two 1/4" holes and i saw them straight away. doh!
Fixed it for ya.