67/68/69 cuda dilemma

Members Restorations

  1. moparmat2000

    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Any surface rust under where this crossmember laps in has been removed to clean bare steel. Weld thru primer has been applied. Ready for welding tomorrow, or when I can get to it actually.

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    Last edited: Jan 2, 2021
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    • moparmat2000

      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Happy New Years everybody. Started snowing and freezing rain yesterday. I woke up this morning to this. Maybe it's a sign. A fresh new snowfall to wash away the old year. One can only hope.

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      • moparmat2000

        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        So I had this 67 slant sux K frame. Awhile back I built a jig to convert it to V8, and I also lopped off that 1 year only bastard child idler arm mount. The improved mount is from 68-76. So I finally got around to making a jig off a 68-76 A body K frame to locate the 68 up mount i do have exactly. Now I can bolt it up tight and weld it in without any fear of geometry issues. I may only use it one time, but at least I have it in case I convert another K frame or need to check for straightness. Heres pix.

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        • moparmat2000

          moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Welded in, done ! This thing is strong enough that I can stand my 220 pound fat ass on it, and it wont bend. The bomb proof lower radiator support LoL. I did not attach the pass side framerail at the top. You can see two 1/4" holes unfilled. That's actually on purpose. I intend to make a repair piece to repair the front top cap on that rail including the front tab, and spotweld 2 nuts to the underside for my overflow bottle bracket. But for now heres current pix.

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          Last edited: Jan 3, 2021
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          • mygasser

            mygasser FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            at first i couldn't work out where the 2 1/4" holes were, then it dawned on me they're two 1/4" holes and i saw them straight away. doh! :lol:
             
          • moparmat2000

            moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            Fixed it for ya.
             
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            • moparmat2000

              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Next project. A bit more unFucking on this thing. The RH framerail inboard flange was bludgeoned downward just like the LH one was. I am assuming that was the old race car owners idea of fitting a bigger radiator in this thing. Thankfully he didnt destroy the rest of the radiator support to install it.

              This side of the car is solid, since the battery tray isnt on this side. I determined it's not worth pulling the inner fender apron out just to sandblast mating flanges since it's that decent, however when I straightened the bent flnge back up it was pretty rough. My overflow bottle bracket wont sit flat. I made a determination to cut out just the bad bent and straightened section, and weld in a new flat section. As such I did not weld the lower radiator support at the upper two drill holes I made to attach it. A picture is worth 1,000 words or so they say. See pix below.

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              Last edited: Jan 4, 2021
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              • mopowers

                mopowers Well-Known Member

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              • moparmat2000

                moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Thanks on the Kudos. I actually got the idea for the hyundai tank on here. It's a recovery type tank. Has a tube inside that goes to the bottom. The recovery tank was $2.99 on closeout at rockauto The NOS bracket was about $5 from Hyundai. Only an attach point at the bottom. Its actually pretty stable in the one bracket. I supposed you could put a cushioned P clamp around the neck of the bottle and bolt that to the radiator support with a tubular standoff.
                 
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                • mopowers

                  mopowers Well-Known Member

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                  This is great info! I may grab one for my 66 Dart since I need something that attaches to the frame rail instead of the core support. Thanks sir.
                   
                • moparmat2000

                  moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Your welcome. Get the Dorman bottle. The hose fits in from the side of the cap. The NOS hyundai tank cap the hose fits in from the top straight down. The dorman one looks much better and more compact that way IMHO. I can get you the Hyundai mount bracket PN# tomorrow if you want.
                   
                • mopowers

                  mopowers Well-Known Member

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                  That's be awesome! I'd be putting mine on the driver's side though, so maybe the Hyundai on would be the way to go? Is the cap the only difference? So so muddle your thread btw. Hope you don't mind.
                   
                • moparmat2000

                  moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Cap is the only difference. The cap is a snap on cap. It does rotate so you can still use the dorman tank on the LH side if that's the side you prefer. Will get the mount bracket PN tomorrow. Look up the bottle for a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon.
                   
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                  • mopowers

                    mopowers Well-Known Member

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                    Great to know. Thank you.
                     
                  • moparmat2000

                    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    Tiburon bottle bracket #

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                    • moparmat2000

                      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      I had done some sandblasting work as a favor for a guy I'm friends with who's into MoPars. Anyways after bringing some blasted parts back to him I asked what he had in the way of a "free eighteen" or in a substantially reduced price 318 short block. Ask and you will recieve. Went and picked it up today. A free 1977 vintage 318 short block. Not sure if 318willrun will like my thread when we get into the rebuilding aspect. It's going to be a 9.7-1 CR teener with a 600 AVS, 68 340 cam, 68 340 exhaust manifolds, and GM HEI fired chrysler distributor. Gonna be a nice engine. For now when I get to it, we will take it apart and the block will be a mock block for the 42RH trans. Everybody who's gonna say, dump it, put a 360 in it. Please dont. The plan for my sons car has always been a performance minded 318. It's going to have plenty of power and with the gearing it will be plenty of fun for a teenager. Ya cant beat free. Plus dont overlook those 1968-1972 teeners either. You can get those cheap to free if the one who has it doesnt know what they have. They have really thick casting walls. Most will take an overbore to 4.010" and be turned into a vaunted 340 albeit without the 340 casting numbers on the block.

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                      Last edited: Jan 10, 2021
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                      • moparmat2000

                        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                        Well we got started on tearing down the rest of the Free Eighteen. Cam and lifters are out. Lifters are cupped, cam is a stocker, or appears to be. It had a nice slightly used double roller timing chain in it without any slop. I will keep that for a possible future project. The timing cover has no corrosion issues and should clean right up in the sand blast cabinet. I need to get an oil slinger if that's used in 318s since there isnt one there. Anybody know if teeners use a slinger ring? And it looks like whoever did the timing chain used the bolt to run the balancer back in. The washer for the harmonic balancer bolt is chewed to shit. I will need another. Hes having fun though.

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                        • mosleyme

                          mosleyme Well-Known Member

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                          Yes, LA came with them.
                          Mopar Performance Oil Slinger
                           
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                          • moparmat2000

                            moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            A little more research and it's a bit more aggressive cam than the melling SPD-22 68 340 cam I bought. Also found marks on the pistons where the exhaust valves and pistons smacked. Not sure if this was the result of too big a cam in a stock flat top piston equipped engine, or the original chain jumped time and they had a little valve smacking, and whoever owned it did a quick n dirty cam, lifter, and timing chain kit to it and kept driving it. I know this isnt the right way to check a cam, but I wanted to see how much taller the one lobe on the one we pulled out was at peak compared to what I bought. About .025" taller. Not sure how that equates to total lift. It will be going .030" over with KB167s it's currently a stock bore.

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                            • mygasser

                              mygasser FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              to get total lift first measure the base circle diameter (90 degrees from where you measured the lobe)and take that from the lobe height (as you show it measured). times that by the rocker arm ratio you're using (1.5?) to get total valve lift.
                              neil.
                               
                            • moparmat2000

                              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              mygasser , I dont plan on using it, dont have all of the pieces for the the top end yet to verify anything. Dont really care. Was more of a curiosity as to what it was since theres no markings. I have the 68 340 cam I am using, was just curious as this thing we pulled out was taller by .025" on the peak of the lobes. Its smoked, the lifters are cupped. Prob never broken in correctly. I am betting its a generic chevy grind summit cam and lifter kit. Its headed into the scrap trailer along with the smoked lifters, and a 318 balancer with the rubber isolator dryrotting and peeling apart. The rods and pistons will be headed that way too after I get a 4 corner piston to deck height measurement then pull em out.
                               
                              Last edited: Jan 20, 2021
                            • moparmat2000

                              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              Havent done much since the middle of january. Spent a week in N.J. caring for my folks after a car wreck. Come back, and dealing with coolant leak on wife's caravan. Got that fixed. Now I got to clean up the shop.

                              When I was gone on my trip, I did order some LED H4 drop in bulbs for the Hella eurospec light housings for the Cuda. They were only about $12 for the pair off evilbay. They have a 50,000 hour lifespan. This equates to 5.75 years of continuous operation lol. These will last my lifetime and my sons lifetime. Beam pattern is the same tested as the H4 halogen bulbs with a slightly whiter color, but no voltage drop on my meter compared to the halogen H4s. This means likely very little to no amperage draw either. Thus no stress on the wiring or relays needed. The nice part is the LED technology, and old skool housings, and not that LED googly eyed bullshit and lighted halo ring crap that you see everywhere.

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                              Last edited: Feb 7, 2021
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                              • moparmat2000

                                moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                Bottom end still needs to come apart, however today i decided to rotary file off the casting parting lines and flash. Not really needed for a mild 318, but this imparts stress risers and just looks like ass. Plus I cleaned up the drains in the lifter valley. We will run a Milodon valley pan so if this thing bends a pushrod we wont push out a lifter that will kill oil pressure or lodge itself in the cam lobes. $35 its cheap assurance. I will also be doing the oiling mods as well before she goes for a swim in the hot tank.

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                                Last edited: Feb 8, 2021
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                                • Sublime one

                                  Sublime one 72 Demon FABO Gold Member

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                                  Just a super cool thread all the way around. Have a blast with your boy. You are creating memories of a lifetime.
                                   
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                                  • moparmat2000

                                    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                    Thsnk you!! I hope people reading this thread can get some ideas or tech tips on stuff. This car is an absolute mess, so theres lots more to come.
                                     
                                    Last edited: Feb 13, 2021
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