67/68/69 cuda dilemma

Members Restorations

  1. moparmat2000

    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    I dont mind piddlin and making stuff fit. This valance does fit really really well with a little bit of tweaking here n there, however these bumper supports needed a fair amount of grinding and fitting. So far I have only 1 side ready to go in.

    I wouldent say swapping this whole rear valance along with the trunk floor is a pain in the dick, but it's sure not a 1 afternoon thing. However the end results will definitely be worth it in the end.

    The fact that the bumper supports had to come off to replace the trunk pan is part of it. Plus the fact that I had to cut off the mounting tabs that were on the supports to get them off the old floor probably didnt help things.

    Another issue is my OCD. Being OCD about sheetmetal is great if your doing aircraft sheetmetal which I do for a living. But maddening when doing automotive sheetmetal. I gotta keep telling myself these were not perfect when they came down the assembly line, they were just good enough.

    Heres todays pix. Due to my OCD, only the RH support is ready for welding LoL. The gray on the floorpan under it is weld thru primer.

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    Last edited: Oct 31, 2020
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    • 440jimr

      440jimr Well-Known Member

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      Thank you for the informative tips!
       
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      • moparmat2000

        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Well the bumper reinforcements are in. My welding job in this area certainly isnt my best work, but its fully penetrating, and solid. I will slick a little seam sealer over it to smooth it down after I knock some high spots off. Used silver sharpie on the valance to figure out where I want to drill it for spot welds. I traced the trunk floor lip to get the location height for the spot welds. Then I used the spacing of the spot welds on the old one as a guide.

        I used the bumper bolts to draw it all together to weld them. I left the front and back ends of the bumper reinforcements open to prevent moisture build up under them, and so after the trunk is painted I can shoot some corrosion prevention compound up inside there. Last pic is the factory welding job on my 67 notchback. I am guessing that this job I did is 100× better than the factory "Stevie Wonder" weld job.

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        Last edited: Nov 6, 2020
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        • moparmat2000

          moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Tech tip. These are Knipex 86 03 300 geared smooth jaw plyers. These are about $70 for the 12" ones pictured. But the linear geared jaws are perfect for tweaking and smoothing panel flanges, and are worth every penny for doing this stuff. I may have posted pix of these early on in this thread, but their value for metal working cannot be understated. Ditto for the el cheapo harbor freight mega pincher vise grips.

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          Last edited: Nov 6, 2020
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          • trigger_andy

            trigger_andy Well-Known Member

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            What amazing work. Really enjoyed following this build and looking at the pictures of how it should be done.
             
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            • moparmat2000

              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              Well I got a bit further today. Took a vacation day from work, got the valance scuffed up, and primered. Did some quadruple checking to be sure it's where it needed to be, and zzzzzzap!!! In it went. The temp support out of steel conduit and steel angles are all cut back out and tomorrow I will be installing the lock catch box. Trunk closes nice and square though. Very happy with the results.

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              • Stephen Hotz

                Stephen Hotz Youtube channel Stephen Hotz FABO Gold Member

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                Dang that thing is looking good!
                 
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                • moparmat2000

                  moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  Thanks Steve. It's getting there. Once I get the latch box and latch catch installed and all my welds ground smooth, then it's on to the next project on this poor thing.
                   
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                  • moparmat2000

                    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    Trunk latch box is in, everything adjusted. Closes nice n square. After all the weld grinding I will start on the next project. What will it be ?

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                    • moparmat2000

                      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Got a wild hair up my ass to do more cutting and demolition. Not quite unfucking an old race car, but something new to work on none the less. A bit too much rot, and a crappy pop riveted patch job that just has to go. A little wire conduit tubing temp welded in to keep it square. Temp installed to check fit of the inner fender I bought off sedanman years ago. Theres definitely no shortage of projects to do on this thing, I think I just need a dart board or a wheel of fortune spinner wheel thing with sheetmetal projects listed on it that need to be completed lol.

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                      • trigger_andy

                        trigger_andy Well-Known Member

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                        Impressive work as always. I'll be using your work when I finally start my Barracuda. :) I can see where you ground out the spot welds on the inner fender, but how is the bottom length secured to the chassis leg?
                         
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                        • moparmat2000

                          moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          Oh its spotwelded to the flange on the framerail too, and theres also about 8-10 spots on the shock tower support.
                           
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                          • trigger_andy

                            trigger_andy Well-Known Member

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                            Ah ok, hard to see in the pics. I guess it will be more apparent when you start to weld it in.

                            I like your bracing idea. I need to replace at least one inner fender on my Barracuda. If I braced it like that I wonder if it it would be strong enough for rolling onto a plant trailer to drive 2 moles to the Media Blasters? I'd remove the doors as well and brace accross them too.
                             
                          • moparmat2000

                            moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                            RH side inner fender is in good shape on this one, but I am contemplating carefully drilling it off to get at sandblasting the corrosion behind it and then just reinstalling it. Will likely pull the other fender, hood, K frame and suspension out and put the body front on a wheeled dolley I currently have on my 67 so i can push it outside to sand blast it. I will be replacing the cowl outer with a new one, and sandblasting the inner cowl plenum, along with the engine compartment. With no weight in the car, I doubt it will flex much. Just use bubble levels when you square it up to weld in the new panels.

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                            • moparmat2000

                              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              I will also be making a new lower radiator support out of 2x3 boxed steel like I did for my 67. Heres pix of what I will be making for the radiator support on the 69. The notch out for the radiator let's it tuck up nice and tight just below the valance.

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                              Last edited: Nov 16, 2020
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                              • IMFURYS

                                IMFURYS IMFURYS FABO Gold Member

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                                Hey Matt,
                                I can't remember, are you putting a fiberglass hood/scoop on Patrick's car with the lite weight hood springs?
                                 
                              • moparmat2000

                                moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                Steel hood, fiberglass bolt on scoop
                                 
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                                • moparmat2000

                                  moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                  Bunch of holes and dimples on my 67 LH inner fender that are not on a 69 inner fender. I welded em all up and ground em flat. Started to bend out the front framerail flanges where ricky racer beat them flat for a bigger radiator. Thank God he did not butcher the radiator support.

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                                  • moparmat2000

                                    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                    Since I'm going to remove the outer cowl and sandblast the front end on this thing, I decided to strip everything off, and install the wheeled dolley on the front to be able to roll it outside. Ricky racer drilled a hole in the firewall, and through the lower cowl plenum in an attempt to mount gages on the top of the cowl.

                                    Part of the reason I am removing the outer cowl is to address any corrosion that may be hiding in there, repair the drilled hole that ricky racer popped in there, then seal the inner plenum in epoxy primer, and to also remove all sorts of junk I found in there with a cheap phone mounted borescope I fed it up inside there to look around. All kinds of shit. Washers, screwdriver shank, it's all in there.

                                    Got a nice deep transmission pan with drain plug for the 42RH from Morris 4x4 center $54 shipped w sales tax. I thought was a pretty good deal. Will fit A904, A999, and 42RH. Dont go by their fitment chart.

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                                    Last edited: Dec 11, 2020
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                                    • moparmat2000

                                      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                      Well I got the hood and hinges off. With the temp brace on the LH side still tacked in to hold the radiator support where it needs to be, I decided to make some bolt on removable temp bracing for both sides instead. This way where its attached nothing is welded to the car to be cut off later, and it gives me access to drill off the cowl so I can sandblast inside there too.

                                      Then my attention turned to the radiator support nutplates. Only 1 out of 4 of them was decent. One was broken clean off, one was barely intact, and 1 had a screw broken off in it. I wanted to repair these to appear stock factory installed. Hopefully how I fixed this problem can help some of you out with the same issue

                                      I had a spare weld on 1/4-20 nutplate, and I broke off the one that was barely hanging on. Then cleaned up and straightened the holes. I used a threaded stud mounted flush to use as a handhold and to keep weld slag out of the threads when welding. I then drilled out the broken screw on the 3rd nutplate, and chased out the hole with a 1/4-20 tap. At least now a radiator can be bolted on now LOL.

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                                      Last edited: Nov 29, 2020
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                                      • IMFURYS

                                        IMFURYS IMFURYS FABO Gold Member

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                                        More pretty work. How close would you say you are to having the 69 where you want it (body wise) and switching back to working on the 67? I'm looking forward to seeing that build thread too.
                                         
                                      • moparmat2000

                                        moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                        Years and years away. If you honestly want to know, I seem to creep along with this stuff. Sometimes it's hard to get motivation. Other times I get this insane burst of energy to get a bunch done.
                                         
                                        Last edited: Nov 29, 2020
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                                        • moparmat2000

                                          moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                          Trans pan came in. This thing is is nice. I also picked up some 14 gage 2x3 to redo the subframe connectors and make the new lower radiator support.

                                          Been busy though for the last few days chasing a dead short in the turn signal wiring in my truck. Needed it all working so I could go pick up this steel. Hint it wasnt a bad switch in the column. It was actually shorted directly to ground between the output side of the fuse to the flasher relay.

                                          I had a big pile of wiring from the 92 dakota I scrapped. I used that in the same color codes, shrink tube, and a bunch of spade connectors to make a temporary wire around the problem which is definitely inside the cab, but i will go looking for the shorted wire eventually. Reverse lights are on the same turn signal circuit that I wired around so i have no reverse lights, but at least I have turn signals now. This is a temp fix, but in my world it will probably end up staying a temp fix for the next 10 years.

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                                          Last edited: Dec 4, 2020
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                                          • moparmat2000

                                            moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                            .got to poking around on the LH framerail with the inner fender off and found this. No better time to repair it than now I suppose. The rails are 14 gage steel. I decided to fab up a splice piece out of 14 gage sheet. Just a little more tweaking and it will fit exact. The inside of the framerail is all light surface rust. Nothing to get real worried about. I only sandblast outside my shop for obvious reasons, and will have this closed in before then. I will likely use Por15 inside here before I weld it up. Underside of the new piece I just hit with a little weld thru primer. The old piece was clean on the underside. Still had primer on it. Last pic is the RH framerail as a comparison.

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                                            Last edited: Jan 2, 2021
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                                            • moparmat2000

                                              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                                              Well I always said I wasnt a fan of Por15. But my experiences with it are from almost 30 years ago. I decided to give it a shot again. Did 2 coats on the inside of the framerail as far as an acid brush could reach. Then after heat gun drying it, I applied 3 brush coats of epoxy primer. The weld overlap areas got zinc weld thru primer, and the prerequisite 1/4" holes for rosette welds. I will weld it up and grind it down tomorrow evening. Then turn my attention towards the fwd framerail top cap next. am very pleased with the results so far. The rest of the inside of the framerail is in good shape. I ran my borescope down through it and the metal is solid with only light surface rust in spots. This car lives in a dry environment and I plan on shooting a rust inhibitor inside the rails when all is said and done anyways.

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                                              Last edited: Dec 6, 2020
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