Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Looking good. You’re getting closer every day. It’s worth it in the end. Here’s a motivational thread for you. Getting closer.... first fire up
67 twin turbo dart
- Thread starter Matts440
- Start date
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Matts440
Well-Known Member
Thanks my friend, man does that sounds awesome.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
My wife just got a notice that today 6 years ago I brought the dart home from Mad darts.
Matt, it was great to finally meet you and your dad. When you get ready to start it let me know if you need a extra set of eyes there. Seems like there is always so much to be looking for and at the first time it starts.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Hey my friend, was great to meet you too. For sure I'll let you know, that's so true especially with these kind of builds lol.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well some good news today, checked the oil pan by draining a little and no coolant. Drained a little bit of the coolant system and pulled the 4 corner Mani bolts and resealed the thread with the permatex sealant, will let that cure. Got my over flow tank mounted, started on the front door speakers, got it all cut out and mounted, ran out of speaker wire, but need to order some cups for the speakers to help with sound. Ran the wires from drivers door through the side kick panel area to under the drivers sear where I'll put the amp.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Mounted the mandalorian skull where my oldest thought would look good since we like the show.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well filled the coolant system again and leaked again at the bolts. Drained the coolant down again to check out the holes, nothing is blocking. I'm thinking I had the thread sealant up higher then the actual threads that go into the head, so pulled all the bolts again put the thread sealant down towards the bottom where they contact the threads....hoping this does it, if not not really sure. So letting that set. Did clean up the original sill panels, sprayed them with chrome paint and gloss clear. Cleaned up and resprayed the door panels, just need to get more speaker wire and the protesters for the door speakers then that will be ready when I can afford a amp. Kinda stuck till I figure out the coolant thing.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well two bolt still leaked coolant, this thing is driving me crazy. Trying some grey silicone this time, hopefully it works this time. Did get the breather/catch can mounted and cut the hole and mounted the 6 pack hood scoop. Sanded down under the area the scoop covers and shot with some black paint just to give it a clean inside where the hole isn't. I did cover the bare underside of the hood with insulation.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well filled the coolant system and even the grey silicone didn't work, so went old school and used the old thread sealant tape style and stopped the leak finally. Got to thinking going to use the fender and grill call outs just painted them and left the flat surfaces the raw pot metal sanded and clear coated. Also finished the door panels and wired the spekaers after getting the foam speaker protecter to help keep water out of them and help with sound. Now I can move to the fuel system and put some in and test all that fingers crossed no issues. Also going to start a new job in a few weeks, getting out of medical and going back to automotive technician.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well the coolant bolt gremlin came back not sure how, just went out today and coolant was on the valley of the intake. So pulled that bolt out again and liquid tape the whole bolt and put it in, so we shall see. But after that worked on testing the fuel system only has two loose fitting but the rest is good, and the ground switch on the dash worked perfectly. Also worked on the running/dash light, bow its a brand new one from classic industries and not sending any power to the running or dash lights, even out of the car tested the ohm and was open with the switch pulled to the running light position. So I went and got a 20amp switch, bypassed the factory switch and now that's under the dash next to the fuel pump ground switch. Now they all work perfectly. Not sure what happened to the switch, even the stock one did the same.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well still had through coolant leaking out of the same bolt on the intake. Trying a different bolt one without the ARP tapper on the end. Got the grill mount badge done and put on. Connected the laptop to adjust the settings on the MS3X, just had a question about the COP settings, wrote to megasquirt to verify with them, pic is the one in question if I need to set each one or if the computer will fire them without adjusting these settings.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Those are extra programmable outputs. You don't need to program those to fire the coils. I'd recommend running through the injector and spark test to test every cylinder for fuel and spark. If they all work, it should fire right up once you turn the fuel pump on.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Oh, I'll be happy to answer any questions about tuner studio. I've had mine running over a year now. I'm by no means an expert, but I've worked through some silly things and have my car running pretty good. I can't help with anything related to boost though.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that info, and for the help, first time with this thing. How do I test those with it?
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
There should be a test procedure in the manual, but here's the short version. Under the CAN-bus/testmodes tab, select "Output Test Mode-Inj/Spk". I would test one at a time, although you can test all at once. I went through to make sure my firing order was correct as MS uses letters for cylinder designations. You should have already set them up in the basic engine settings. (18436572=ABCDEFGH). So set the respective injector/coil and start the test. You do have to "burn" for the test to start. Then go feel the injector to see if the correct one is clicking. I pulled the plugs to make sure they were firing- remember to ground the case if you take them out. You can vary the output interval to vary the RPM. You should see the spark fire quicker and injector click faster. Repeat for every cylinder.
If you want to see what spark Dwell does, you can go change that in your general settings. It's cool to see the difference. I have the D585 coils and I've read the most dwell you want is 3.5ms. That's what I have mine set to and haven't had any problems.
It would also be a good time to see if your MAP, TPS, CLT sensors are reading correctly.
That same tab has a test section for the IAC. You will want to test to make sure it is moving the correct direction.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Awesome and thank you, I think I need to rewire the injectors since Louis wired then for a normal firing order and my cam is custom with a LS firing order, I wired the coils to the LS order didn't even think the injectors.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
What does this mean?? It won't connect to the MS3 saying a setting is off but I can't figure out which one I looked through all the ones and the inj. Ones I asked about are no longer marked as enabled. So not sure
Matt, were in the same boat. I just started mine yesterday in full sequential mode but still have some bugs to work thru. Take your time and start with the basic sensors like Joe suggested; MAP, CLS,TPS, IAC, etc. and then move on to injectors and spark testing. That error you got is pretty vague though. Maybe it’s the communication settings between Tuner Studio and the MS3. I ran into that a few times as TS tried to connect to my phone over Bluetooth and I had to remind it to connect over the usb. Good luck!
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Yeah I'll take it step by step and test those this weekend, started a new job this week, getting back into the swing of things going back to wrenching on cars from medical field.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
yes, you will likley have to swap either the injector or coils. The firing orders need to match since you can’t adjust the independently.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
It should show you the differences if you have a file open before you connect. Otherwise connect without a file open. You can save that file, then compare offline.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Coils are already wired to the correct new firing order just wondering about the injectors if I need to rewire them or are they just wired up by bank and I simply just tell then the order to fire in.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
You should have to rewire, just swap the connectors on the injectors that need to be changed. Hopefully you have enough slack in the harness to do so. If memory serves me right, the LS has a 4/7 and a 2/3 swap.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
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