67 twin turbo dart

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Well just heard the versafueler checks out awesome from acceleronics. Jeff has been awesome even created a youtube video for his channel with him testing mine:

Hopefully the link works.
 
Just a little update no the car isn't running yet, found some more electrical issues, megasquirt all works just fine, turns out the wire I had for key on and thought crank only gets power just on key on not crank too, so ordered a new ignition switch and crossed over my key cylinder, tested still didn't work, luckily I ordered a switch panel just in case which is coming this week, so that will get wired to constant power, probably just wire it off the ciggette lighter power, non smoker here, just wired it in for a cell phone charger, but then these switches will divert power after key on to the coil and ignition system which is why it won't fire, power was being shut off when cranking. Update more later when hopefully after the switches are in and this thing fires up.
 
Matts440 said:
Just a little update no the car isn't running yet, found some more electrical issues, megasquirt all works just fine, turns out the wire I had for key on and thought crank only gets power just on key on not crank too, so ordered a new ignition switch and crossed over my key cylinder, tested still didn't work, luckily I ordered a switch panel just in case which is coming this week, so that will get wired to constant power, probably just wire it off the ciggette lighter power, non smoker here, just wired it in for a cell phone charger, but then these switches will divert power after key on to the coil and ignition system which is why it won't fire, power was being shut off when cranking. Update more later when hopefully after the switches are in and this thing fires up.
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I had the same problem with my Megasquirt. Too much voltage drop when cranking so I feed my MS with a constant 12v armed with a toggle switch.
 
subcom said:
I had the same problem with my Megasquirt. Too much voltage drop when cranking so I feed my MS with a constant 12v armed with a toggle switch.
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Yeah I had to do that too, this is just the coil power off the fuse panel when I rewired the car for its power source and the ignition power which to power the Cam and Crank position sensors. But the main power feed for the injectors is off a relay that I put in but that trigger wire is only on with key on and not cranking.
 
How can I load a video, each time I try it says this video doesn't have an extension??
What does that mean?
 
Dartsun said:
The way I do a video is add it to YouTube and then copy the link and paste it here.
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Thank you will give that a try. I found out why I wasn't getting anywhere with the firing, my coil power and ignition power were worked to key on and I though I checked cranking too but no go on the latter, so installed a switch panel to give both those full power but can turn off so they aren't getting full battery power all the time.

20210228_181442.jpg
 
428cid twin turbo, trying to start.

Hope this works. Its trying to start. Figured out I was 180 out on the camshaft position sensor. Already adjusted with try to start her this week hopefully.
 
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Hemirunner said:
Any luck getting it fired Matt?
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Nope, still acting the same. Cannot figure out what's going on. If you want to check out I can email the latest datalog and tune file if you want. I do need to turn off the noise filter. But I just can't get it to fire up just act like it wants too.
 
Sounds retarded or the fuel system is not supping properly . You don't seem to be getting backfires which would indicate timing is close
 
AUSA66 said:
Sounds retarded or the fuel system is not supping properly . You don't seem to be getting backfires which would indicate timing is close
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I did have to wire the primary fuel pump to constant battery since it was off the fuse block but was no power on cranking. But after the last email from diy they looked at the datalog and the crank signal showed interference and suggested turning off the noise filters, but I checked that setting tonight and the filter is on, so now I'm thinking its the crank sensor not sending a good signal. My cam sensor is awesome and good they said. So we shall see, hoping maybe its that, will order a new one from them and get that wired in. I did try dropping the advance to 5* and nothing, so thinking with the 4* adv already in the can, try going 12* over the original 10*. Thoughts??
 
Is the sensor gapped correctly also check for any metal swarf on the end it will make it behave erratically normally it should be providing a clean pulse is it a powered sensor or magnetic .
What is your start timing at 12 or 10 + 12 = 22
 
AUSA66 said:
Is the sensor gapped correctly also check for any metal swarf on the end it will make it behave erratically normally it should be providing a clean pulse is it a powered sensor or magnetic .
What is your start timing at 12 or 10 + 12 = 22
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It is gapped correctly, will check to see if anything is on it. Its a powered sensor. Still figuring this all out, just see the advance on cranking, where do I find the base timing?
 
Will a timing light work at crank speed check what the timing is actually at.
 
Set up sync again. The cam position sensor can be anywhere really. It doesn’t matter. As long as the ecu knows where it is.
Edited to add;
Cam sync adjust and ignition timing sync are two different things. Do both.
 
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TT5.9mag said:
Set up sync again. The cam position sensor can be anywhere really. It doesn’t matter. As long as the ecu knows where it is.
Edited to add;
Cam sync adjust and ignition timing sync are two different things. Do both.
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I have it set up just as they say, crank on tooth #1 after the missing tooth BTDC on cyl #1 and the cam is dead center on the half moon shape
 
Matts440 said:
I have it set up just as they say, crank on tooth #1 after the missing tooth BTDC on cyl #1 and the cam is dead center on the half moon shape
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Did you go through the procedure of counting the teeth from the missing tooth to the sensor while the engine is on TDC? There's an offset that needs be entered so the ECU knows where the missing tooth is in relation to TDC. Probably wouldn't hurt to run the toothed wheel logger to see if you're getting a good crank signal. I had to end up putting some pull up reistors in my crank sensor circuit. I'm using the red threaded body sensor from DIY.
 
Matts440 said:
I did have to wire the primary fuel pump to constant battery since it was off the fuse block but was no power on cranking. But after the last email from diy they looked at the datalog and the crank signal showed interference and suggested turning off the noise filters, but I checked that setting tonight and the filter is on, so now I'm thinking its the crank sensor not sending a good signal. My cam sensor is awesome and good they said. So we shall see, hoping maybe its that, will order a new one from them and get that wired in. I did try dropping the advance to 5* and nothing, so thinking with the 4* adv already in the can, try going 12* over the original 10*. Thoughts??
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I'm cranking at 13 degrees and varying between 16-20 when idling to smooth it out. It sounded like it wanted to start in the video. Did you try opening the throttle? Did is smell like raw fuel? I found the default cranking fuel and warmup tables were extremely rich. If you open the throttle past 75% (I think) it initiates a flood clear. This stops the cranking fuel. You're getting close. Don't let it beat you...
 
racerjoe said:
Did you go through the procedure of counting the teeth from the missing tooth to the sensor while the engine is on TDC? There's an offset that needs be entered so the ECU knows where the missing tooth is in relation to TDC. Probably wouldn't hurt to run the toothed wheel logger to see if you're getting a good crank signal. I had to end up putting some pull up reistors in my crank sensor circuit. I'm using the red threaded body sensor from DIY.
Click to expand...

racerjoe said:
I'm cranking at 13 degrees and varying between 16-20 when idling to smooth it out. It sounded like it wanted to start in the video. Did you try opening the throttle? Did is smell like raw fuel? I found the default cranking fuel and warmup tables were extremely rich. If you open the throttle past 75% (I think) it initiates a flood clear. This stops the cranking fuel. You're getting close. Don't let it beat you...
Click to expand...

turbodart68 said:
How good are your grounds?
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I did count the teeth and entered in the correct degree it was on. I have there old version where I don't need the resistors it was straight batt volts.

I'll try the 13*, I did smell fuel and tried the throttle wide open to not spray fuel, just pumped twice and held open.

I have good grounds, one on block to frame, intake manifold to firewall, and all the ECU are on the fuse block ground side which is tied straight back to the batt and battery to chassis
 
Matts440 said:
I did count the teeth and entered in the correct degree it was on. I have there old version where I don't need the resistors it was straight batt volts.

I'll try the 13*, I did smell fuel and tried the throttle wide open to not spray fuel, just pumped twice and held open.

I have good grounds, one on block to frame, intake manifold to firewall, and all the ECU are on the fuse block ground side which is tied straight back to the batt and battery to chassis
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Thats not good enough. All grounds go to battery. Block heads intake ecu chassis all go to battery. It may not be your problem but i chased an electrical gremlin for a year and it was a bad ground. Its so common for folks to think a ground to the chassis is good enough that there are hundreds of videos on youtube addressing that very problem. Once my grounds were improved so many things i didn’t even know were a problem were fixed.
 
Matt, you may also want to try the timing light while cranking to see if it is flashing at TDC (timing light with offset capability)
 
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