67 twin turbo dart

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Yay my new injectors have shipped. Hopefully this does it, at least being down gave me time to delete my 2014 Ram diesel of its def and EGR crap, picked up throttle and turbo spool response and better fuel mileage already.
 
Out with the old injectors and in with the new, olds ones in the bag already. Man was Matt at DIY was spot on, pulled the old injectors out and sure enough they have the Ford logo on it lol. Forgot to order up the new spark plugs this week, so will get those ordered here soon.

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new plugs and injectors


Got everything installed, it wouldn't idle so some reason then figured out the throttle stop moved so when I let go of the throttle it would close lol, so fixed that and it idled. So now I get to reset the clearance on the rocker arms, and go through and check all the exhaust bolts, had a sound like a exhaust leak. So will get all that done and run again, currently injectors are at 6ms and timing is at 24* timing, gapped the new plugs to .020.
 
nephew starting the car


My Nephew was over and wanted to start the car, so just showed him how. This one has the idle, it was rumbling out back.
 
Installed the new throttle body with a much better stop when you let go of the pedal. Fine tuning is still going on. Just adjusted the rockers to the hot clearance stated on the cam card, so hopefully soon will get it on the road and cruise the neighborhood to see how she feels.

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new throttle body installed


New throttle body adjusted and back to be able to idle. Installed the fresh tubes to the dash vents so can have free flow air during driving. Ran the transmission through the gear with the tires off the ground. Need to adjust the linkage, wouldn't go into reverse lol just kept going forwards lol. Need new tires and then save up to get the tune done.

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Well you can tell its the first time for me to use a trans brake, I didn't know you had to have it wired to use reverse, so I was tripping thinking the shifter was f'd up and readjusted it all and even fired the car up and manually put the trans into reverse and the wheel still rolled forward. So finally figured it out thanks to google and made and bracket for the brake I got with the car so will finish that wiring and run it off my fuse panel with a 10amp fuse for it, unless others think I should put a higher one in. Ordered a plug with gauge fitting, wasn't getting oil psi at the gauge, thinking cause I had it T in on a fitting, this will go straight at it on the outside of the remote oil filter mount I have. Looking more like a race car then barely street car lol its all good.

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Well got the new fitting in for the oil psi sender so now its inline. Wired in the trans brake. But last time running noticed the center brake line on the proportioning valve was dripping fluid odd wasn't before. Removed the hot side pipe drivers side to get to the brake lines. Checked the tightness and they were just a tiny bit loose but not enough to leak. Retightened all lines and rechecked, pumped the brakes and still leaks. So found some brake fluid resistant sealant its also for hydraulic's. So ordered that so we shall see, course that means bleeding the brakes again lol.

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**Update**Well the new sealant worked perfectly no leaks, re-bled the brake system, good strong hard pedal. Oil psi sender is all sorts of messed up, speedhut is sending me a new one, free of charge(awesome customer service), so will get that installed once I get it and can see the psi before baking out of the garage for the first time under its own power and take a little cruise down our street, will get the alignment semi set till I can get it fully checked.
 
Finally got the oil psi to register with the new sender, but not at first, they recommend the liquid plumbers tape so I tried that still didnt work with new sender, so I did two things, put the ground I had one the old one on the threads with washers onto the new one and got rid of the plumbers tape and went with the new hydraulic/ brake sealant and bingo had 80psi cold start on the gauge. So now I swapped all the other sensors for their gauges from the plumber liquid tape to this sealant, so letting that cure and hopefully if that all works will be on its first drive on our street in front of our house, yes my wife will take a video don't worry. Dang all this small crap lol
 
Wow not sure what happened to the other page. But jacked up the rear of the car, put on stands, ran the car for a good 10mins, coolant temp was just below 180*, oil temp and trans temp still inop, took a surface temp on where the oil temp sensor is and got 148.1* and the gauge never moved. So speed hut wants me to send the gauge in to have it tested, will ship the current sensor back with them, so dash comes out to get the gauge out, so much fun.

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Did you check the connector a lot of them are not clicked into the housing properly & when fitted the pin pushes the socket back preventing contact try pushing down on the wire at the connector to see if it works
 
AUSA66 said:
Did you check the connector a lot of them are not clicked into the housing properly & when fitted the pin pushes the socket back preventing contact try pushing down on the wire at the connector to see if it works
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Can try that, they already sent me a 2 wire sensor and connector that I currently have on it, still doesn't work. I really have no clue why its not working, I ground the power wire from the gauge and the gauge sweeps, the ground wire it straight to battery. This is actually the third sensor I have tried for this gauge all from speedhut. Volts are 5v at the wire to the sensor.
 
test the resistance across the 2 wires coming from the sensor without the rest plugged in also measure the 2 pins on the sensor using an ohm meter this will prove the sensor has a resistance & when plugged in it will show the pins are connecting to the plug
 
Just checked a universal 2 pin GM sensor at 70F it reads 2000 ohms on a ohmeter 250 ohms at about at 140 f
 
I did do a ohm check with coolant at 160* I measured the oil temp sensor the new one and got 370ohms.
 
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