67 twin turbo dart

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turbovan said:
Most BOV’s leak under idle vacuum. Loosen them back up, and if they close when you blip the throttle you’re good to go. Only tighten to overcome higher boost.
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They do, I was always under the impression if they leaked at anytime they were bad. Good to know, learning all the time. Thank you.
 
turbovan said:
Most BOV’s leak under idle vacuum. Loosen them back up, and if they close when you blip the throttle you’re good to go. Only tighten to overcome higher boost.
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Mine opens/leaks at idle also with vacuum pulling it open but like turbovan says, as soon as I give it a bit of gas it closes.
 
subcom said:
Mine opens/leaks at idle also with vacuum pulling it open but like turbovan says, as soon as I give it a bit of gas it closes.
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Glad to know nothing is wrong, just wanted to make sure in case I had to order. I just remembered my HKS on my SRT4 didnt so made me worry lol
 
Matts440 said:
Glad to know nothing is wrong, just wanted to make sure in case I had to order. I just remembered my HKS on my SRT4 didnt so made me worry lol
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That’s funny I have an HKS sequential on my truck and it’s the only one I’ve ever had not leak at idle.
 
TT5.9mag said:
That’s funny I have an HKS sequential on my truck and it’s the only one I’ve ever had not leak at idle.
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Must be the design of it not leaking, that was the only other turbo car I had so with these leaking just threw me off.
 
Got her on the dyno, everything was going good with dialing in the air and fuel, then when most ready to start the pulls the crank sensor would drop off at a certain rpm first was 2100, then turned back on the filter noise, got the crank sensor to drop off at 3800 rpm for some reason, its the shielded wire to connector. So sent a copy to Matt at diyautotune and then he asked for a crank tooth log, so we sent him that and waiting response since they are back east. So well see where this goes, car is still at the dyno shop. Will update when I have news.

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Wow I thought for SURE this thing would be done. I'm ready to cruise chicks. lol
 
Matts440 said:
Got her on the dyno, everything was going good with dialing in the air and fuel, then when most ready to start the pulls the crank sensor would drop off at a certain rpm first was 2100, then turned back on the filter noise, got the crank sensor to drop off at 3800 rpm for some reason, its the shielded wire to connector. So sent a copy to Matt at diyautotune and then he asked for a crank tooth log, so we sent him that and waiting response since they are back east. So well see where this goes, car is still at the dyno shop. Will update when I have news.

View attachment 1715847556
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Any chance the air gap is too wide or too tight on the crankshaft sensor, causing the signal to drop out?

Loving the build. Keep up the good work.
 
Bobzilla said:
Any chance the air gap is too wide or too tight on the crankshaft sensor, causing the signal to drop out?

Loving the build. Keep up the good work.
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The gap is set to 1mm which is the gap megasquirt said to set it too, and the adjust nuts are lock washered, checked the brackets that's still tight. Its odd it was revving clean before and just starting doing that.
 
On mine I had to go to a Hall effect sensor. The magnetic pickup was not very consistent. Not sure what style you are running.
 
slowfab said:
On mine I had to go to a Hall effect sensor. The magnetic pickup was not very consistent. Not sure what style you are running.
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Its megasquirts old style hall effect, these require a tighter gap, so the shop is going to strengthen the bracket (its a single bolt mount) make it a two bolt, then close the gap tighter. DIYautotune is out of there new style and not sure when they will come in which the new ones don't need as tight of a gap. So that will get done today or tomorrow and they will out it back on the dyno and try again. Hopefully the closer gap will work and can go on to the tuning to the different fuels.
 
Matts440 said:
Got her on the dyno, everything was going good with dialing in the air and fuel, then when most ready to start the pulls the crank sensor would drop off at a certain rpm first was 2100, then turned back on the filter noise, got the crank sensor to drop off at 3800 rpm for some reason, its the shielded wire to connector. So sent a copy to Matt at diyautotune and then he asked for a crank tooth log, so we sent him that and waiting response since they are back east. So well see where this goes, car is still at the dyno shop. Will update when I have news.

View attachment 1715847556
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This sounds a lot like a similar issue I had with the Fitech and even with MS when I was running a distributor and the issue was that I was running the timing wire (the crank sensor in your case) too close and parallel to a coil wire going through the same hole in the firewall. Car idled and cruised fine but as soon as I put any load on the motor it would break up. I separated and rerouted those two wires and the problem went away. Remember if you can’t separate them it’s OK if the wires cross but not good if they run parallel to each other for any distance. So make sure the crank trigger lead isn’t running across coil wires or even the alternator charge wire (that one bit me too).
 
subcom said:
This sounds a lot like a similar issue I had with the Fitech and even with MS when I was running a distributor and the issue was that I was running the timing wire (the crank sensor in your case) too close and parallel to a coil wire going through the same hole in the firewall. Car idled and cruised fine but as soon as I put any load on the motor it would break up. I separated and rerouted those two wires and the problem went away. Remember if you can’t separate them it’s OK if the wires cross but not good if they run parallel to each other for any distance. So make sure the crank trigger lead isn’t running across coil wires or even the alternator charge wire (that one bit me too).
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Nope they are clear, my crank wire runs near to the valve covers below the coil wires, pic below is the wiring and the distance between them, and the coil wires are on the outer edge of the valve cover and very short.

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From your description and the fact that adding the filter helped makes it sound like interference from some where. How did the crank tooth log look? Did you capture a composite (cam and crank) log also? Any gaps or drops in the graph where it lost sync? Electrical gremlins are a pain. Process of elimination. Just work thru all the potential sources one by one, you’ll get there.
 
subcom said:
From your description and the fact that adding the filter helped makes it sound like interference from some where. How did the crank tooth log look? Did you capture a composite (cam and crank) log also? Any gaps or drops in the graph where it lost sync? Electrical gremlins are a pain. Process of elimination. Just work thru all the potential sources one by one, you’ll get there.
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It actually first did it with filters off and again with filters on. Oh yeah there was drops, the graft looked like when you start the engine, rpm was would drop to 0 and back up, it was weird. We did send both composite logs with and without filters. It sounds like Matt at diy thinks it the old style hall effect and why they went away from them, needing to be much closer to the tooth wheel compared to their and others sensors.
 
Well didn't hear anything on the car Friday, but took advantage of a semi open garage and scored some free rails for my third car garage door(previous owners removed and trashed I guess) got them up and installed and now I have a functioning third car door which is where I'll put my sons car to start working on once I get it a little more cleaned up. Good news is I won't need to move the air compressor, there's and inch on each side for clearance so I'll try, worst case I move the compressor.

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Well heard from the dyno shop, bracket is all done but even with a closer gap there is still a rpm drop off. So I'm thinking my sensor might just be bad and needs replaced. Thoughts? Thinking of going with Holley's since diyautotunes are out of stock, plus the holleys can work on a voltage from 8-20 so I won't need to rewire for less volts.
 
I have that cherry sensor as a driveshaft sensor that came with my kit from motion Raceworks. I run the holley sensor for the crank trigger. The cherry sensor seems finicky and doesn’t like the narrow wheel. No issues from the crank trigger.
 
Hemirunner said:
I have that cherry sensor as a driveshaft sensor that came with my kit from motion Raceworks. I run the holley sensor for the crank trigger. The cherry sensor seems finicky and doesn’t like the narrow wheel. No issues from the crank trigger.
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Think that's the issue, I'll order one up and get it coming. Hopefully it solves my issue.
 
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