67 twin turbo dart

-
Matts440 said:
Oh yeah theirs, yeah they are out of stock and not sure when the new batch is coming in, else I would have loved to go with theirs.
Click to expand...
Mouser shows stock but I have a feeling that it’s the old Cherry part no for the short sensor: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ZF/MP100701?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvxX9Q80wbhCRU7JHjnIIwB
New new ZF part number is: GS100502
I checked Digikey and a few other electronics supply distributors I know and most show a 20 week lead time.
https://www.newark.com/zf-electronics/gs100502/gear-tooth-hall-effect-sensor/dp/05M6388
 
Matts440 said:
Think that's the issue, I'll order one up and get it coming. Hopefully it solves my issue.
Click to expand...
My 36-1 is an AR Engineering piece. The teeth are as wide as the sensor face which helps immensely. If I rotate the cherry sensor in the mount over the narrow wheel, the data quality changes ranging from none to working depending on the position.
 
Hemirunner said:
My 36-1 is an AR Engineering piece. The teeth are as wide as the sensor face which helps immensely. If I rotate the cherry sensor in the mount over the narrow wheel, the data quality changes ranging from none to working depending on the position.
Click to expand...

Thanks my friends. Placed my order for the holley one, hoping this fixs my issue and can get to tuning this.
 
Sorry if this has already been covered, do you have a pull up resistor on the crank sensor? I fought mine when I originally put the car together. They have trim pots inside the ECU, but they didn't do anything to help my signal. Once I put the pull up resistor in the circuit, the problem was solved. Also, how is your trigger wheel mounted to the crank? Is it on the back side of the pulley? I have mine welded to the back of the pulley and one time my engine would start breaking up around 5000RPM, almost like a rev limiter. I later found one of the tack welds had broken and I guess the trigger wheel would get to moving around at the higher RPM. It ran perfectly fine at lower RPM.
 
racerjoe said:
Sorry if this has already been covered, do you have a pull up resistor on the crank sensor? I fought mine when I originally put the car together. They have trim pots inside the ECU, but they didn't do anything to help my signal. Once I put the pull up resistor in the circuit, the problem was solved. Also, how is your trigger wheel mounted to the crank? Is it on the back side of the pulley? I have mine welded to the back of the pulley and one time my engine would start breaking up around 5000RPM, almost like a rev limiter. I later found one of the tack welds had broken and I guess the trigger wheel would get to moving around at the higher RPM. It ran perfectly fine at lower RPM.
Click to expand...
Mine is bolted behind the pulley. I don't have a pull up resistor on mine just wired straight to 12v, I know the new ones are 6v.
 
Matts440 said:
Mine is bolted behind the pulley. I don't have a pull up resistor on mine just wired straight to 12v, I know the new ones are 6v.
Click to expand...

You may need to use the pull up resistor. It goes between the power and signal wire. I think it is 2.4K ohm when using 12VDC power. Check me on this.
 
Hemirunner said:
Good point. The Holley stuff is all 5v. No resistor needed.
Click to expand...
The sensor I was looking at said it can run from 8-20volts, it a parts number 554-124. I can try the pull down, worse case is I return the Holley sensor back.
 
Matts440 said:
The sensor I was looking at said it can run from 8-20volts, it a parts number 554-124. I can try the pull down, worse case is I return the Holley sensor back.
Click to expand...
It’s worth a shot. From what I’ve learned, that sensor has a small strip of the face (as opposed to the entire face) that is actually the sensor. Given your thin reluctor wheel and the little strip of sensor it’s easy to see how it could lose signal. I have a 36-1 wheel just like yours and I opted to not use it and went to the wide face AR Engineering wheel.
 
Hemirunner said:
It’s worth a shot. From what I’ve learned, that sensor has a small strip of the face (as opposed to the entire face) that is actually the sensor. Given your thin reluctor wheel and the little strip of sensor it’s easy to see how it could lose signal. I have a 36-1 wheel just like yours and I opted to not use it and went to the wide face AR Engineering wheel.
Click to expand...
Yeah thats why I'm leaning more toward a better sensor that has the full sensor over the small strip.
 
Hemirunner said:
Good point. The Holley stuff is all 5v. No resistor needed.
Click to expand...

The resistor isn't being used as a voltage divider to lower the input voltage. It's a pull up resistor, meaning it helps "boost" or "pull up" the output signal.
 
Hemirunner said:
It’s worth a shot. From what I’ve learned, that sensor has a small strip of the face (as opposed to the entire face) that is actually the sensor. Given your thin reluctor wheel and the little strip of sensor it’s easy to see how it could lose signal. I have a 36-1 wheel just like yours and I opted to not use it and went to the wide face AR Engineering wheel.
Click to expand...

My setup. No problems once I got the pull up resistor in it and also took care of the broken weld holding the wheel on the pulley.
pick-up-jpg.jpg
 
Matts440 said:
So on the pull up resistor you would just back probe it from the signal to the power wires?
Click to expand...

From the DIY website. Just connect the resistor across the power and the signal. I ended up embedding mine in my harness to protecting the resistor from breaking. You can put it anywhere that is convenient. If you have some type of connector, it may be easy to just put the resistor on the connector.

upload_2022-1-24_16-2-51.png
 
racerjoe said:
The resistor isn't being used as a voltage divider to lower the input voltage. It's a pull up resistor, meaning it helps "boost" or "pull up" the output signal.
Click to expand...
Ah, I reread the part about going across the power and signal. I’ve never used a pull up resistor. It may help with my driveshaft sensor. What air gap is your setup running?
 
Hemirunner said:
Ah, I reread the part about going across the power and signal. I’ve never used a pull up resistor. It may help with my driveshaft sensor. What air gap is your setup running?
Click to expand...

I've never measured it, but probably a credit card thickness. I just made wheel speed sensors for my car and used the DIY hall sensor with the single hole mount. Those instructions say 5mm, which I did end up measuring because the brackets I made are not adjustable. Those worked flawlessly reading the back of the wheel studs. I'm using digital inputs for these though, not a VR input.
 
Need advise, latest from the dyno shop been a problem after problem getting it to tune. Current issue:
Now that it will rev above 3500 however under load it won't rev and even at 15psi of boost it makes no power. Everything in the log looks good, but the motor sounds like it's laboring to get to 5k. It seems as though it may be the transmission but not really sure at this point.

Any thoughts? Trans is trazact stage 4+, PTC turbo convert. But I'm almost thinking boost leak either at a clamp or even the eBay waste gates could be leaking under boost not allowing it to make power. Racking my brain. Help
 
Matts440 said:
Need advise, latest from the dyno shop been a problem after problem getting it to tune. Current issue:
Now that it will rev above 3500 however under load it won't rev and even at 15psi of boost it makes no power. Everything in the log looks good, but the motor sounds like it's laboring to get to 5k. It seems as though it may be the transmission but not really sure at this point.

Any thoughts? Trans is trazact stage 4+, PTC turbo convert. But I'm almost thinking boost leak either at a clamp or even the eBay waste gates could be leaking under boost not allowing it to make power. Racking my brain. Help
Click to expand...


Is 15 pounds of boost what it should be making? How much power is it making?

I hate to say it but it may be easier to pull the engine and put it on an engine dyno to see what it looks like.

I’ve been waiting for this thing to run and make some power. Getting their is always a PITA.
 
Rat Bastid said:
Is 15 pounds of boost what it should be making? How much power is it making?

I hate to say it but it may be easier to pull the engine and put it on an engine dyno to see what it looks like.

I’ve been waiting for this thing to run and make some power. Getting their is always a PITA.
Click to expand...

They were just trying to tune it now that the crank signal isn't dropping off. Current info:
Even without any load on the dyno it has a hard time accelerating, like it would feel if the brakes were applied the whole time. After a run though the rear brakes were cool to the touch.
 
Last edited:
Matts440 said:
They were just trying to tune it now that the crank signal isn't dropping off. Current info:
Even without any load on the dyno it has a hard time accelerating, like it would feel if the brakes were applied the whole time. After a run though the rear brakes were cool to the touch.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the timing is severely retarded. I hate to say it but trusting your car at a dyno shop is a recipe for disaster.
 
turbodart68 said:
Sounds like the timing is severely retarded. I hate to say it but trusting your car at a dyno shop is a recipe for disaster.
Click to expand...

True was just hoping to have it dyno tuned and be done but all the small bs came up. Well they checked timing and its to what I had set to on the computer, or if they changed it, since its the jeeps cam position sensor. Yeah always seem like something new, they build cars as well as do dynos. Have read where on the tranzact VB the torque converter pressure valve sticks, would this cause the same hard acceleration if the pressure isn't getting let out of the tq?
 
Matts440 said:
True was just hoping to have it dyno tuned and be done but all the small bs came up. Well they checked timing and its to what I had set to on the computer, or if they changed it, since its the jeeps cam position sensor. Yeah always seem like something new, they build cars as well as do dynos. Have read where on the tranzact VB the torque converter pressure valve sticks, would this cause the same hard acceleration if the pressure isn't getting let out of the tq?
Click to expand...
I can pretty much guarantee its not the trans unless its applying two gears at once. The computer only knows what you tell it and if the crank sensor is set at a different angle, which is super easy to do and it can be a tiny movement to change the timing. I pushed a head gasket doing that.
 
turbodart68 said:
I can pretty much guarantee its not the trans unless its applying two gears at once. The computer only knows what you tell it and if the crank sensor is set at a different angle, which is super easy to do and it can be a tiny movement to change the timing. I pushed a head gasket doing that.
Click to expand...

Here's my angle, they just pretty much just added a secondary bolt to help secure it. Its holds boost but no power and struggles to accelerate. So your thinking timing? I'll ask what the current timing is.

20190224_141343.jpg
 
Matts440 said:
Here's my angle, they just pretty much just added a secondary bolt to help secure it. Its holds boost but no power and struggles to accelerate. So your thinking timing? I'll ask what the current timing is.

View attachment 1715884922
Click to expand...
One of two things is happening. Either the motor makes no power and adding boost results in no power or the boost reference is wrong and its not really seeing 15psi at the intake valve. Or timing. Whether the computer is pulling timing for some reason or the timing was set wrong to begin with and the reference is off. I hate to say it but this is where these mix and match fuel injections can be a total nightmare and not worth the headache.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top