thanks, i'm glad to get back to it. looks like i'll be using the smaller 8 1/2's with 295 tyres for now. i can always narrow the other exploder axle i have later and minitub it to fit the bigger ones then.Stoked to see some progress. Really like the slots!
cheers Fred, i hope soLooking good Neil will be one sweet ride when your done.
Looks like you know what your doing Buddy keep it going.cheers Fred, i hope so
neil.
Nice work Neil can't wait for some pictures with the engine in the hole.first day back on it and we did quite well i think. we removed the old rear axle and leaf springs, modded the explorer spring plates to take the mopar shocks and bolted the explorer axle in place with it's slot mags. last job was get it back on the deck and make a decision as to whether the stock front suspension will stay for this summer (at least) or to fit the straight tube now. it all hinged on how high the back sat and how much arch to tyre gap it had. luckily the tyres clear fine (it helped i'd rolled the arch lips previously) and it wasn't too high.
so for now the front end stays so we fitted the pcd adapters and the skinny front slot mags. i've got /6 to sb v8 conversion mounts here so tomorrow it looks like after i cut the tunnel for the manual trans' we'll be hanging the motor in there, woohoo!
here's some pics, i'm very happy View attachment 1715717457
neil.
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it's just the area under the 'new' amd manual trans hump i got from summit last year. it's to give room for the shifter rods. i'll show you tomorrow, lol.Nice work Neil can't wait for some pictures with the engine in the hole.
How much tunnel do you have to cut out to put the transmission in?
Wow did have a good day and love the tunnel ram.we had another good day today. while i repaired the k member butchery i'd carried out fitting the 383 ashley started polishing the slot mags View attachment 1715718129. next i cut out the tunnel ready to fit the manual hump and added reinforcement to the inner wing where the z bar pivot goes as this car was auto before. we then pushed it outside to turn it round to fit the motor (taking pics while outside of course). lastly we bolted on the trans dapt mounts ready to fit the motor. at least we would have if they both fitted my 318. the drivers bracket appears to be for a 360 as i'd need spacers to bolt it to the 318. as luck would have it my box of bits included an original 318 driver's side mount, result. so the motor is now in there.
neil.
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thanks and me too, it's what came on the motor when i bought it. according to what i'm told here this old edelbrock tr5 is the best tunnel ram you can get for a small block mopar.Wow did have a good day and love the tunnel ram.
I here ya I'm still trying to find parts I misplaced 2 years ago.thanks and me too, it's what came on the motor when i bought it. according to what i'm told here this old edelbrock tr5 is the best tunnel ram you can get for a small block mopar.
clutch, bellhousing and trans' next followed by cutting and shutting the shifter rods to fit (that's why i've not welded in the hump yet) and rebushing the manual pedal box before swapping it in. i just need to remember where i put the bushes from brewers
neil.
I'm short so 4' works for me.i keep forgetting to say, the 2 post lift and transmission jack are a godsend for this kind of work. even though it'll only get 4 foot off the ground due to my garage roof height it's so much better than laying on my back
neil.
I'm short so 4' works for me.
well that'd be nice but i still have to juggle this with the honey do's, lol.dang, spring is here and you're not wasting any time keep up this pace and you'll be driving it by the end of the month
Looks like a real clean fit on the headers even with power steering, I'm impressed.i decided to hang the headers before fitting the flywheel, clutch, bellhousing and trans' as i'd have more room. i couldn't believe there'd be enough room on the drivers side so i swapped the thicker motor mount to that side. i then lifted the motor up on my transmission jack and removed the steering centre link which goes through the drivers side header then wiggled the headers into place, holding them there by shoving a small screwdriver into each end bolt hole. then i lowered the motor and it sat lop sided..... bugger! the offset of the studs on the mounts is greater on the thinner mount so they have to be fitted as per the instructions. so i removed them again and swapped them back but now the drivers side header sat on the power steering box, but this was easily fixed with 2 x 3/16" steel plates slotted so i could fit them either side of the mount. lowered again it now all clears, it's very close but there is room. once everything's bolted up i can dent them if i need to, fingers crossed i don't.
so a lot of mucking about for a simple job but with the whole job taking about 3 hours i've done worse.
neil.
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I had to dent mine on #1 and shim the engine up a bit and manual steering on mine.me too mate, i was fully expecting to have to add some 'dimples' to even get them in place but so far so good.
Good to know I didn't know the lpg octane rating and a cleaner set up I would think. Thanks I'm learning.i've had a couple over the years mate, both at the time were on my daily drivers too (couldn't afford 2 cars back then). one had 'proper' mechanical secondary tunnel ram carbs, the other had vac' secondary carbs which when you were driving normally was effectively like having a single double pumper as only the primaries got used. it was also better on fuel than the mech' secondaries were. driveability was fine with no bogging or flat spots. eventually i'll fit 2 impco 425 lpg 'carbs' and do away with the petrol system all together. using the fork lift type propane bottles it only costs about 1/4 the price per litre compared to petrol so if the car does 10mpg then for the same cost money wise it's the equivalent of 40mpg. that and lpg is 110 octane so i can run a bit more timing advance without pinking so more power too, win win.
neil.