69 340 problems

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I'll check all the new info out, and run the engine off another fuel supply later this am and report back.
Thanks guys.

George
 
I bought fresh gas this am, and poured some down the carb after it sat overnight.
No start.
The cap/rotor/plugs/points/condenser/plug wires are all new. I swapped out a used coil, and I swapped out a used cap. Same result.
I have spark from the coil based on yesterday's test.
The reman distributor will be here shortly, but I doubt that it will have any effect on the car. After that, I'm out of ideas.

George
 
Man do I feel for you... I have been there too and it does get almost unbearable.... Hang in there.....


Since this problem started, there has been A LOT of things change so what ever the intial problem was could have got swapped out (like the carb) but now something else is off and thus making this whole problem seem unsolvealbe since you have symptoms of multiple problems......

So... Would you agree that if you are getting gas and spark at the right time, the car should run. It may not run well but should run. With the new carb, you know you are getting gas (you can see it squirt) and while cranking with a plug wire off and grounded, you know you are getting spark. Is there a chance that when you put on the new timing chain that you are 180 degress out? It is really easy to do... When you put in your new distributor when it comes today. MAKE SURE it is close to being in time, at least close enought to start.....

Take out #1 spark plug, put your thumb or finger over the hole and have someone BUMP the starter in until it blows. Once it does this, then rotate your balancer to the timing mark. You are Now DEFINITELY at top dead center. Point your rotor button towards #1 in the cap and drop it in. Now you have to be close. Also make sure that you have the rotation in the cap right to the firing order. The car must run or at least hit if it is getting gas and fire.

Other than that, I would put a fresh set of plugs in... All of that cranking without running may have fouled them. I have done that before in my SB as well.

Good Luck.
 
I would say, check the points wire coming out of the dist. to the - side of coil. Mine broke inside the dist. once on a car different car a while back.
 
Haney said:
Man do I feel for you... I have been there too and it does get almost unbearable.... Hang in there.....


Since this problem started, there has been A LOT of things change so what ever the intial problem was could have got swapped out (like the carb) but now something else is off and thus making this whole problem seem unsolvealbe since you have symptoms of multiple problems......

So... Would you agree that if you are getting gas and spark at the right time, the car should run. It may not run well but should run. With the new carb, you know you are getting gas (you can see it squirt) and while cranking with a plug wire off and grounded, you know you are getting spark. Is there a chance that when you put on the new timing chain that you are 180 degress out? It is really easy to do... When you put in your new distributor when it comes today. MAKE SURE it is close to being in time, at least close enought to start.....

Take out #1 spark plug, put your thumb or finger over the hole and have someone BUMP the starter in until it blows. Once it does this, then rotate your balancer to the timing mark. You are Now DEFINITELY at top dead center. Point your rotor button towards #1 in the cap and drop it in. Now you have to be close. Also make sure that you have the rotation in the cap right to the firing order. The car must run or at least hit if it is getting gas and fire.

Other than that, I would put a fresh set of plugs in... All of that cranking without running may have fouled them. I have done that before in my SB as well.

Good Luck.
Click to expand...
Haney-
I removed the drivers side valve cover again, and bumped the motor over until both valves were closed. The timing mark on the balancer is at the zero mark. I pulled the cap off, and the rotor is pointing at #1 on the cap. I know the rotation is clockwise. I verified that all the wires are in the correct order on the cap, and that each wire goes to the correct plug. I removed the plugs from cylinders #2 & 4 and grounded the threads of the plug. I spun the engine over and both are sparking.
When I replaced the timing chain, I rotated the engine until the timing marks lined up. I installed the chain the same way it was removed.
Today I swapped out the rotor just for fun. No difference. It spins over, but no start. I again verified the distributor rotor tip was pointing to #1 while at TDC. I reassembled the car, and it will crank, but no start. Every once in a while it will make a sound like it is trying to start, but it never does.
I just went out to the garage to bump the motor over to TDC again, and now we have another problem. The starter just clicks now. It can't turn the motor over. I removed all 8 plugs, and it still won't turn the engine over. The battery is fully charged.
I put a socket on the crank bolt, and although I can turn the motor over this way, it seems like it is difficult to rotate it. I hope I didn't wash the cylinders down and screw up the engine. The starter is a rebuilt unit I got from Carlisle. It was spinning the motor over quickly until just now.
The parts store just called to say the reman distributor has arrived. Big F'n deal now.

I don't know what else I can do now.
redfastback said:
I would say, check the points wire coming out of the dist. to the - side of coil. Mine broke inside the dist. once on a car different car a while back.
Click to expand...
Good idea, but I do have spark. I know fuel is getting to the motor because the plugs are wet.
If it has fuel and it has spark, and it sparks at the right time, it should start, but it will now. Now that I am unable to even crank the engine, I am **** out of luck.

I give up. Maybe I should just buy a junkyard 318 and drive the car like that. I an NOT enjoying this car at all.
I HATE this fukin car, and I should have never sold my Corvette.

George
 
This engine is not rebuilt. It still has the original foam gaskets under the intake manifold.
I did sit for close to 4 years, with WD-40 in the cylinders, and paper towels in the plug holes. It was always in a warm garage as far as I know.

I am beginning to wonder if the cylinders had rust in them, and when I started and ran the car, the compression rings were damaged. Once they got bad enough, the loss of compression was too great to keep the engine running, or enable it to start.

I am also at a loss as to why it will no longer turn over by the starter. Hopefully I just ruined it with all the cranking, but I suppose I could have damaged the engine by washing the cylinders down. It did make a squeek sound when I turned it by hand via the crank bolt, so I squirted oil into the cylinders. Now that it will no longer crank via the starter, I don't know what else I can do to check it out, short of disassembling the engine.

I wish I had a running small block I could install so I can at least drive the car while I have this one rebuilt.

Any comments before I commit suicide??

:D
 
You may have toasted the starter, like a lot of electric motors they`re actual life span (in hrs.) is relatively short but you don`t realize it because it`s only used a few seconds at a time. There`s going to be a "eureka" moment eventually you just have to be patient.
 
New guess,
bad muffler bearing LOL
Seriously , I've seen pieces of rusted muffler guts clog the tail pipe .
 
Half the exhaust system is on the car, the passenger side only. The drivers side is still in pieces on my shelf. All of the parts of the exhaust are new.

George
 
George, if you oiled the cylinders you`ll need to spin it over quite a bit to remove that oil or the spark plugs will foul. When all systems are go it won`t take hardly any cranking to start the engine.
 
George, Read my post about my rebuilt starter. Take it out and have it tested! That is exactly what happend to my car. Very weak spark with the starter and a big spark turning the dist. by hand!
 
bobscuda67 said:
George, Read my post about my rebuilt starter. Take it out and have it tested! That is exactly what happend to my car. Very weak spark with the starter and a big spark turning the dist. by hand!
Click to expand...
Bob, I have another starter here, but I have lost the ambition to replace it today. I also have a lot of other responsibilities here at the house that need my attention right now.

I did read your post, but I re-tested my spark AT THE PLUGS, and it doesn't seem too weak like I originally thought.

Like I said, I think it lost compression. When I was cranking the engine over these last couple of weeks, the engine sounded like it would spin quickly over its entire revolution except for one or two "hard spots". I bet there are a few good cylinders in it, but the rest are toast.
If I can bring myself to do it, maybe I'll pull the heads off and have a look in there. The season is almost over, I missed taking the kids to school in it like I wanted, the local car show cruise night only has 4 weeks left and I am out of time. Pretty soon my time will be spent cleaning gutters and blowing leaves.
I figure I can rebuild the motor should it need it, and have it ready for next spring. I didn't count on this added expense, and it will cut heavily into my profit margin.
I only bought this car to restore and make a few bucks to finance my next car; another 68 or 69 Dart with a BB and a 4 speed. Hopefully I'll pull enough out of this car to afford to build the next one.
I want one that has already been minitubed and the springs relocated, an 8-3/4" SureGrip rear and a stick. Engine not important and neither is the paint.

I'll get back to this car in a few days, and will report whatever I find to you guys.

George
 
Longgone said:
George, if you oiled the cylinders you`ll need to spin it over quite a bit to remove that oil or the spark plugs will foul. When all systems are go it won`t take hardly any cranking to start the engine.
Click to expand...
This car used to start by just clicking the key, so I know what you mean.
I have Autolite plugs in it so they should be OK with a little oil. They usually last a very long time.

George
 
The engine turning over freely is also characteristic of no spark. Buy a compression gauge and check it before taking anything else apart.


If there`s anybody out there that can go to George`s house and help out , please do.
 
Longgone said:
The engine turning over freely is also characteristic of no spark. Buy a compression gauge and check it before taking anything else apart.


If there`s anybody out there that can go to George`s house and help out , please do.
Click to expand...
I'll have to buy one.
I'll check it out further, and replace the starter before I take it apart, but I will lay money on the fact that this engine is in need of a rebuild.
YES, PLEASE! Anyone who can come and check it out with me, I will be appreciative..

George
 
George, sounds like the timing is off at the chain. When you get a gauge, my 340 runs 125 psi with all plugs out and the throttle wide open. Yours ought to be the same or slightly higher since mine has the bigger 68 340 manual cam in it.
Tom
 
I'll see if I can borrow a compression test gauge and let ya's know what it says, but I installed the timing chain the same way I took it off, and the car wouldn't start before I replaced the chain. It made no difference at all.

I got your PM Tom, and thanks buddy.

George
 
George, just seen this thread. I'm not sure about the 340 but on the 318 and 360 and possibly all mopars, when you have the dots lined up on the timing chain gears like the pic you posted on page one or two then you are on tdc of #6 cylinder. Top gear should have the timing mark at the top to be on #1 Not sure if you were on tdc #6 in the pic or not. Just trying to help. If it is 180 out you can just drop the distributor in pointing at #6.
 
63dartman said:
George, just seen this thread. I'm not sure about the 340 but on the 318 and 360 and possibly all mopars, when you have the dots lined up on the timing chain gears like the pic you posted on page one or two then you are on tdc of #6 cylinder. Top gear should have the timing mark at the top to be on #1 Not sure if you were on tdc #6 in the pic or not. Just trying to help. If it is 180 out you can just drop the distributor in pointing at #6.
Click to expand...

???
 
63dartman said:
George, just seen this thread. I'm not sure about the 340 but on the 318 and 360 and possibly all mopars, when you have the dots lined up on the timing chain gears like the pic you posted on page one or two then you are on tdc of #6 cylinder. Top gear should have the timing mark at the top to be on #1 Not sure if you were on tdc #6 in the pic or not. Just trying to help. If it is 180 out you can just drop the distributor in pointing at #6.
Click to expand...
If this is the case, turning the distributor 180° will make it go. I did exactly this on a Pontiac many years ago by throwing the chain in as I'd done with so many Chevy motors.
 
George, if you have a factory service manual, read the section on valve timing. If you check that first you`ll know right where the valves are timed in relation to your timing mark/dampener. That way there will be no guessing and it`s one thing you can be assured of and therefore disregard. When you check your compression you should be closer to 150-160 psi with a tired engine and 175-180 with a newly rebuilt 68-71 engine. I think you might be getting way sidetracked now but the timing chain likely needed replacing and a good, hot, dependable, ignition system would be a very good upgrade.
 
Longone, he has the timing marks lined for a Chevy at TDC. The marks are not supposed to be pointing at each other if you have the#1 cylinder at TDC on a mopar. they should BOTH be at the 12 oclock position at TDC for #1.
 
63dartman said:
Longone, he has the timing marks lined for a Chevy at TDC. The marks are not supposed to be pointing at each other if you have the#1 cylinder at TDC on a mopar. they should BOTH be at the 12 oclock position at TDC for #1.
Click to expand...

Shouldn`t the distributor be timed with the timing cover on ,#1 at TDC on the compression stroke ,and with the dist. drive gear pointed at the first left intake bolt? What did George do to time the distributor? I guess I need to go back and read again.
 
You can't time the distributor if it's 180 out because it ain't going to run. You line up the marks with both gears at the 12 oclock position and #1 at TDC. That puts your valves in the correct relationship with the pistons to open and close at the right times.(compression and exhaust stroke). The timing gear has a straight slot in it so you can drop the distributor in pointing at #1 plug wire hole.

(or turn it around and point it at #6, this is wrong) The way he has his timing gears set in the picture he should have dropped his distributor in pointing at the #6 plug wire.

Once you have all that correct then you can button it up and continue to advance or retard the timing off the cover marks and balancer.
 
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