70 dart 470 ci drag car build.

-
MOPARMAGA said:
I started welding up around the flange and blend into the runner, if anyone doesn't know about gtaw ( gas tungsten arc welding) or Tig (tungsten-inert gas) it's not the easiest type of welding, depending on materials being used it is more difficult or easier. Cast aluminum is among the more difficult. I've only successfully welded cast aluminum 4 times, I'll count this as 4 .
If I can figure out how to NOT dip the tungsten every freaking other minute while welding these angles I will really enjoy this.
I need to make a 5 axis manifold holder that I can rotate and flip and keep it suspended so I can rest my elbow on my bench.
I hope to have this welded and ported by the end of the week
View attachment 1716099290
And yes, it does look like **** right now lol
Click to expand...

If you are dipping the tungsten, you probably aren’t getting good enough support for your torch hand.

You have to be comfortable and have some support for the torch hand or you can dip the tungsten.

Also, I forgot to mention wire diameter. If you are trying to weld a hole or thin spot, you want to use a very small diameter wire. Every time you dip the wire into the puddle it actually cools the puddle off a bit. So you need to stop torch travel ever so slightly when you put the wire in the puddle. And keep the diameter as small as you can.

When you are welding thick stuff or you are doing something like adding materiel to an intake so you can make the port bigger, you can use a bigger wire to increase the deposition rate and make the weld time less.

Of course, it may require more amps and you are cooling off the puddle even more melting the bigger wire so you have to consider that.
 
Rat Bastid said:
If you are dipping the tungsten, you probably aren’t getting good enough support for your torch hand.

You have to be comfortable and have some support for the torch hand or you can dip the tungsten.

Also, I forgot to mention wire diameter. If you are trying to weld a hole or thin spot, you want to use a very small diameter wire. Every time you dip the wire into the puddle it actually cools the puddle off a bit. So you need to stop torch travel ever so slightly when you put the wire in the puddle. And keep the diameter as small as you can.

When you are welding thick stuff or you are doing something like adding materiel to an intake so you can make the port bigger, you can use a bigger wire to increase the deposition rate and make the weld time less.

Of course, it may require more amps and you are cooling off the puddle even more melting the bigger wire so you have to consider that.
Click to expand...
Great advice, steady myself, don't rush, clean, clean, clean & keep cleaning. I did start using 3/32 filler and it made for bigger puddle. I was at 110 amps I will try bumping my amps up to 200 and be mindful of mashing the pedal forever. I hooked up my make do torch cooler so atleast I can handle my torch for as long as I need.
 
My really really good boy Shadow
IMG_20230606_124009869.jpg
 
Pre-heating the cast makes it a little easier. I use a mapp gas torch but an oven can be used too. Helps with puddle development and helps clean some of the **** out of the pores.
 
DNasty777 said:
Pre-heating the cast makes it a little easier. I use a mapp gas torch but an oven can be used too. Helps with puddle development and helps clean some of the **** out of the pores.
Click to expand...
I guess I'll have to weld when my wife isn't home lol. Thank you, that is a good tip
 
I had my 2nd year as an engine machinist pass at the beginning of June and earned another week vacation. But since I'm the only machinist and head bench dude there I'll have to pop in a couple times on my vacation.
Today I was able to duplicate the driver side subframe connector and outriggers for my main hoop. I still need to work on patience while fabbing since my passenger side outrigger ended up an 1/8th inch off.
Anyways it turned out successful and also got my main hoop welded in exactly where I mocked it to be with a 86° angle which follows the side window angle.
Tommorow I will continue on.

IMG_20230620_185834115.jpg


IMG_20230620_185906421.jpg
 
Also since I have this 10% summit coupon
(Thanks @pittsburghracer ) I might just replace my floor pans, mine are junk **** and I think since I have out riggers I can replace them after the cage is installed and cut around that stuff.
 
Oh & I forgot to mention how helpful it is to have the roof bracing in place, it is a great help for tying my bars or laying back my bars
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Today and tonight about 6 hours work, 2 of it spent looking for **** lol
I got my heads assembled last week and since I forgot my head gaskets Tuesday I got over to rats house with them today and installed them.
Buttered up the camshaft (Hughes 264-268) and installed the lifters. Like a dummy wanted to check something, flipped the engine over 1/2 way and out came 3 lifters & the cam already had a few break in cycles I believe. But I do have some good luck.
Anyways I put the pushrods and rockers on, to

View attachment 1716088911

View attachment 1716088912

View attachment 1716088913 my surprise the pushrods were still good for length after milling .080 off of the heads.
I did a blend from the Hughes valley pan intake port opening and took out quite a bit, not max wedge but 3/16 at pushrod pinch and about .200 of higher roof blended into the CNC finish 4 inches in.
Click to expand...
About a 1/4 to 1/3 of the time I'm looking for something too, it seems. Especially if it's a project it's been a long time coming cuz parts tend to get moved around opened up stuff gets stacked here there everywhere....
 
MOPARMAGA said:
These are the new headers, hopefully in a week or so we will have these bolted up and making some power pulls. Anyone have advice on proper break in so the ceramic coating stays nice ? Maybe that's in with the tti paperwork
Click to expand...
All I can say is the best thing to do is run your cam break in with another older set of headers...
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Yeah when they're sleeping lol

View attachment 1716097851
Click to expand...
Clearly they need to be in the shop supervising. Good thing none of us have ever red neck engineered anything. My list of stupid farm tricks is extensive. Like you I work alone a lot and that leads to some creativity, some good some bad! Hah! My hound is in the shop full time, always telling me what to do. Great thread thanks for posting!

IMG_3534.jpeg
 
Sublime one said:
Clearly they need to be in the shop supervising. Good thing none of us have ever red neck engineered anything. My list of stupid farm tricks is extensive. Like you I work alone a lot and that leads to some creativity, some good some bad! Hah! My hound is in the shop full time, always telling me what to do. Great thread thanks for posting!

View attachment 1716105006
Click to expand...

Good looking supervisor you got there!!!
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Also since I have this 10% summit coupon
(Thanks @pittsburghracer ) I might just replace my floor pans, mine are junk **** and I think since I have out riggers I can replace them after the cage is installed and cut around that stuff.
Click to expand...
Just put my order in last night for the last of the Motor stuff I need, saved almost $100! Thanks again for the pep talk.
 
Ironracer said:
All I can say is the best thing to do is run your cam break in with another older set of headers...
Click to expand...
Yeah I probably better do that, I have to break in the piston coating too which hopefully will just be same
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Rednecks, doing stuff since...a long time ago lol
Click to expand...
My only thing is I don't like things moving if I could possibly be underneath them! Lol, I've jacked up two-story buildings with a roof load on top of that, with me as the only person underneath there, and no one else around, replacing the bottom floor load bearing walls. I don't know the exact situation of what happened over there, I'm just glad you're not hurt! however if I had a vehicle on its side with a shop crane, I'd probably tapcon a 2x4 behind the back wheels just so that thing couldn't slide backwards at the Worst Time.... Glad you posted this thread man, that's a wicked looking motor Brother! Along with the rest of Your Build! I may be confused, but I thought you were going for a 10-second cage at first? I'm glad you're going to have it rated tat 8.5 though, that gives you room for improvement, laugh out loud! That being said, is that the same motor that you had on the dyno a few months ago? or did y'all decide to rip that down and just go back through it? If there were any issues, I'm glad you guys caught it before it caused catastrophic engine damage or other things...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top