71 Duster 360 turbo build
- Thread starter turbovan
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Agreed. Id 1050x injectors on the way.
Purple injectors installed. Had to alter the rail height which wasn’t fun, but they appear to be leak free. Also installed and wired a fuel pressure sensor so I’ll be curious to see what my pressures look like. Moved my trans cooler to a more optimal location up front. While the fluid is drained I’m going to drop the valve body and change to a smaller restrictor for the high gear. I have a little bit of 2->3 overlap that needs to go away.
Maybe
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Traction *hopefully 
I don’t believe the car is putting down the power my boost/fuel would indicate. Time will tell, but I’ll be tuning in the injectors this weekend. So far my existing VE table is quite close, so those ford injectors really were flowing right around 950cc at 60psi static.
Today was our first sub 90° high. I’m ready to go to the track if I can keep it together until then.
I don’t believe the car is putting down the power my boost/fuel would indicate. Time will tell, but I’ll be tuning in the injectors this weekend. So far my existing VE table is quite close, so those ford injectors really were flowing right around 950cc at 60psi static.
Today was our first sub 90° high. I’m ready to go to the track if I can keep it together until then.
Did some fuel tuning today and AFR’s are looking great. I’m suddenly having issues with boost creep though. Removed my boost controller, but boost didn’t drop to 14-15psi as expected. The car also felt a bit slower, but I figured that was the taller tires. Turns out that table switching had been enabled the day I updated my injector data so anytime I went into positive pressure it switched tables and provided me with only 10-12 degrees. I did almost kiss 20psi though, and I now have plenty of injector for it!
I’m hopeful that the low timing is the cause of my boost creep. The diaphragm in my wastegate is clearly on its last leg(some melting) so I won’t be surprised if that’s the actual cause.
Boost cut set at 225kpa
I’m hopeful that the low timing is the cause of my boost creep. The diaphragm in my wastegate is clearly on its last leg(some melting) so I won’t be surprised if that’s the actual cause.
Boost cut set at 225kpa
One of the items on my to do list is additional engine bracing. I’ve read that using the factory engine mounting alone can distort/brake the block in high hp applications. I can’t use a motor plate, but should have room for some kind of support bars to the water pump area. Same goes for a mid plate.
I’m currently running a regular passenger rubber mount, and a solid drivers side mount.
Found some trans mount destruction the other day…
I’m currently running a regular passenger rubber mount, and a solid drivers side mount.
Found some trans mount destruction the other day…
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
This brought up another thought. Reading back through Subcom’s threads he’s running more timing advance (at least out of boost) than I am. 40 degrees max at 10.5:1 compression. Mine is set to 36 at 9:1. Any suggestions on how to determine where mine should be? It wants 20 degrees at idle.Yea you’re only like 12 degrees short on timing. No wonder it felt soft.
Mine is about 32 total before boost. Then up to 7.5psi I'm pulling about .5 degree for every 1psi and then about 1degree for every 1psi of boost after. I did bump it up to 21degrees at 14.50psi in the upper rpms last time but typically it would be about 18degrees.
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I did look at that wrong. Just 40 in the region you won’t spend any time in.
I see your A/F ratio is low 11's... with this type of fuel, is it still a little rich? When I had my Omni, I looked for 11.8 w/ race gas. I'm Just curious
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Max N/A power advance? Or max cruise, no load advance? In cruise, no load/light load you can be up around 50 degrees for fuel mileage. Power timing is dictated by how efficient the chamber is. Remind me what cylinder head you are using and what kind of chamber it has. You’re probably not too far off at 36.
It is a little rich, but more interested in staying safe. From what I’ve seen the non intercooler guys aim for around 11.2:1 and the intercooler setups run a little leaner.
Although I am targeting 11.2 in the AFR table, the VE map currently has me at an actual 11.5-11.8 range. The richer target has been helpful when using the autotune function.
I feel like I should invest in some dyno time soon. Things are happening too quickly for me to tune effectively/safely on the highway at this point. Unless someone wants to come drive for me?
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I have the cnc speed masters with 65cc chambers. Probably not very efficient. I’m mostly interested in the max N/A number as a starting point when it comes to pulling timing for boost. I’m assuming I would need to make some N/A pulls and check straps to get an accurate number?
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That’s a pretty common cylinder head around here. You could probably poll the audience and come up with a good number. It’s a cnc closed chamber with a decent spark plug location. I’d bet that chamber wants 33-35 degrees max power timing NA.
Started a thread in the transmission area. I feel like I’m down on power and wondering if I’m blowing through the converter. Pretty sure I should buy a certain PTC converter for sale on here. Spoke with John cope and he said my logs look like I opened a parachute after shifting into 3rd.
This is essentially showing 2.85 seconds from 100-150mph if there was nothing slipping between the crank and tires. My car isn’t that fast.
This is essentially showing 2.85 seconds from 100-150mph if there was nothing slipping between the crank and tires. My car isn’t that fast.
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Shoot me your log and I’ll look at it in megalog viewer. Hard to see from your screen picture. When my old converter was slipping it was like driving a golf cart. You couldn’t feel the gear changes and the RPM was stuck at like 6200-6300.
Thank you. Sent
It doesn't seem like converter slip to me. There's a big rpm drop on the 2-3 shift for sure but what stands out to me is the swing in fuel pressure and the low battery voltage which could be the cause of all kinds of issues. Double check the `Batt V` in your logs in case it's my megalogviewer that is reading it wrong. Your TPS is off the charts in my logviewer alos. For comparison in my logs my voltage sustains 13.5v under boost.
Thank for pointing out the voltage drop; I had not noticed that. I believe I need to run a bigger power supply wire to my microsquirt fuse box which also supports the coils. The fuel pumps are powered right off the battery so I doubt they experienced the same voltage drop.
TPS was recalibrated after installing the new injectors. I’ll do it again with a bit more foot pressure.
The fuel pressure drop and lean spike was scary to see afterwards. I was too low on fuel and when the tires broke loose it must have uncovered the sump. I’m glad the motor survived. New fuel sender arrives today.
TPS was recalibrated after installing the new injectors. I’ll do it again with a bit more foot pressure.
The fuel pressure drop and lean spike was scary to see afterwards. I was too low on fuel and when the tires broke loose it must have uncovered the sump. I’m glad the motor survived. New fuel sender arrives today.
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