73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

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76orangewagon said:
I've got this Aluminum one doing nothing but taking up space....it needs finished most of the hard work is done if your interested.
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I still really like it! LOL Sorry I haven't been in contact with you about the stuff we talked about. Wife and I had a baby last month.

I'll be contact with you...

Riddler
 
SteveAle said:
1st I want to say, Awesome build.. I am currently in the process of building a 70 Gen 3 Duster. I have since gotten several ideas I might ummm borrow O:) I have been reading and only made it to page 110 so far but I have a question, and I might have missed the answer in a previous page.

On you wheel, tire and rearend set up. If you dont mind me asking. What did your rearend end up being WMS wise? love the look of your wheel and tire combo, I was going for that look, but I didnt get my measurements right apparently haha. I need to get narrowed more.

I am using 55 inch WMS without rotors, 18x10 with 4.5bs and still have 1-1.5 lip room on factory lip. I just dont look deep enough. I did a mini tub kit from US Car tool and I am using the Hotchkis spring kit.

Any help will be appreciated and I am not trying to jack your thread O:)
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I not gonna be by the car for a week or so and am unsure what WMS is but I'm assuming your talking axle flange to axle flange, I'm going off memory here but am pretty sure my housing flange overall measurement was 45" and I believe I added 2 1/2" for axles per side soooo..... 50" and my wheels are 17x11 with 4.5" back spacing and I have about 1" to the wheel lip, but I trimmed back the lip about 1/2" also. Hope this helps, I can measure next week to be 100% sure if you need me to.
 
76orangewagon said:
I not gonna be by the car for a week or so and am unsure what WMS is but I'm assuming your talking axle flange to axle flange, I'm going off memory here but am pretty sure my housing flange overall measurement was 45" and I believe I added 2 1/2" for axles per side soooo..... 50" and my wheels are 17x11 with 4.5" back spacing and I have about 1" to the wheel lip, but I trimmed back the lip about 1/2" also. Hope this helps, I can measure next week to be 100% sure if you need me to.
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No need to with what I measured versus what you said that spec sounds about dead on. Now to decide if I really want to pony up another chunk of change to get rear cut more and get new wheels and tires.

Thanks for the intel thou..
 
SteveAle said:
No need to with what I measured versus what you said that spec sounds about dead on. Now to decide if I really want to pony up another chunk of change to get rear cut more and get new wheels and tires.

Thanks for the intel thou..
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Glad it helped out.
 
Just thought I'd share to all those who have been following along for a couple years now might remember back in 2013 when I assembled a 1970 Dodge Dart Swinger for my Dad that featured Tom Hoovers original 371 Stroker engine that he built for Chrysler Performance Clinics back in the early 70's. Well, I just picked up the August Mopar Action magazine and thought I'd share the article, I started showing this build back on page 81 of this build (yes, I hijacked my own thread).
 

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Looks good! Congrats Dave and Ross. The Dart is a really sweet car. Anybody who has seen this car in person is very impressed.
 
SixSpeedSS said:
Looks good! Congrats Dave and Ross. The Dart is a really sweet car. Anybody who has seen this car in person is very impressed.
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That is AWESOME, you and Dave should be proud..........I know I'm proud of the 2 of you. I scratch my head and wonder how those cars can get put together with all the rum flowing!

Congrats to Dave......... and you. :thumblef:
 
HemiMark said:
I scratch my head and wonder how those cars can get put together with all the rum flowing!

Congrats to Dave......... and you. :thumblef:
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There celebration drinks after a days work, never during...back some 30 years ago my Drunk neighbor came over and decided to help me install my torque converter bolts and didn't have the correct alignment and F**ked it all up. Lesson learned
 
I probably missed it in this HUGE thread, but did you have to modify your floor any to fit the buckets?
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I probably missed it in this HUGE thread, but did you have to modify your floor any to fit the buckets?
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Well, that's a "Yes" and "No" answer. No to get them to fit with the aftermarket brackets and bolt in but I didn't like the height of the seat position and my head felt close to the headliner...you see this a lot with aftermarket seats and in my opinion just doesn't look right. I cut off the mounting tabs and made lower or flat tabs to lower the seat closer to the floor, that's where I ran into a problem. The floor has a built in riser that interfered with the seat so I cut that riser out and made a flat floor so that now when I sit in the seat my shoulder is just below the top of the door. The first picture is the untouched bracket, the second is the difference in the mounting tabs, the third is the seat riser that was in the way and the last is the modified floor with the seat in place.
 

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Here's a few pictures of an Idea I discussed with HemiDenny last week on his visit....It's the start of a remote cooling system and will really make the motor look "interesting". Nobody makes the proper Small Block Mopar adapter brackets I needed so...I had to make my own and added some -16 AN Weld in Bungs, More on this in a few weeks. I also removed the Torsion Bar cross member since it interfered with the header collectors and exhaust...Pictures on this change also to follow once completed.
 

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Nice, thank you, how did that MCI console end up fitting?
 
is there ANYTHING on your Duster that is UNmodified?

(rhetorical question)
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Have you had her out and driving yet?
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Nope still on jack stands..making some modifications to the Modifications. Currently Modifying the Transmission Cross/ Torsion Bar mount to allow more room for the exhaust. Truthfully I'm not in any big hurry to get it done because I'll get bored and have to start looking for something else to build.
 
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