73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

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AnotherA said:
That would have been such a cool place to hide the nitrous arming switch and/or push button start. :)
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Patience there my Mopar brother, all that wil be revealed shortly....there is a plan in place, no Nitrous though.
 
HemiDenny said:
Does it involve cup holders?....rum and coke cupholders?
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Unfortunatley the cup holders did not make it into the final design, so they got the boot.......although dual cup holders were an available option on that white torpedo looking thing (AKA center console) but I didnt check off that option on the order form either.
 
76orangewagon said:
Unfortunatley the cup holders did not make it into the final design, so they got the boot.......although dual cup holders were an available option on that white torpedo looking thing (AKA center console) but I didnt check off that option on the order form either.
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You can use one of mine, I have 8............
 

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Heres the direction the dash is going ...I told you I had a plan, it just take me a few days to get things rolling. I cut a oval in the 1/8" dash and welded in a panel to hold all the control buttons and give the dash some depth instead of flush mounting ....no switches or pull knobs here, everything is push button including the starter button which comes with a complete computer control module. I filled the hole to the left of the column the since it just wont be needed. I also made some threaded thru frame mounts for the upper shock mount reinforcement (to be made later) that fill the 3/4" holes I drilled before the car went to paint. These will squeeze the frame without crushing it and are tapped for a 1/2"-20 bolt.(Will these work Denny ?)
 

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Very nice work. Your going to run an electric water pump?
I'm going to need a set of those through frame bolts at some point.
 
76orangewagon said:
Heres the direction the dash is going ...I told you I had a plan, it just take me a few days to get things rolling. I cut a oval in the 1/8" dash and welded in a panel to hold all the control buttons and give the dash some depth instead of flush mounting ....no switches or pull knobs here, everything is push button including the starter button which comes with a complete computer control module. I filled the hole to the left of the column the since it just wont be needed. I also made some threaded thru frame mounts for the upper shock mount reinforcement (to be made later) that fill the 3/4" holes I drilled before the car went to paint. These will squeeze the frame without crushing it and are tapped for a 1/2"-20 bolt.(Will these work Denny ?)
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xxxx me! That is off the charts outstanding!
 
Over the top Ross....it scores a 15..out if 10

Looks good....still stuck w/ finishing house
....can't wait to get back to k's
 
That dash is sweet. It is amazing how much better the recessed switch mount makes that dash look.
 
I like those buttons a lot. I almost ordered many of the same before I went the touch screen direction for all my switches/buttons. Looks great Ross!
 
Thanks for all the positive comments....I didn't mention it but each button has a LED ring when activated I went White for the majority of the ring LED colors except for the starter button (Red) and marker lights (Amber). I was going to change every color but when I looked at the finished set it looked like a friggin Xmas tree. White will go with the Gauges since there White LED backlit also, hopefully it will have a nice clean appearance when done ........and yes the dash is gettting powdercoated, probally a Satin or Trim black to match the Autometer gauges.
 
AnotherA said:
Very nice work. Your going to run an electric water pump?
I'm going to need a set of those through frame bolts at some point.
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Yea, I guess the Billet "Water Pump" button gives that away.....For what I have planned for the front of the engine, an electric pump not only will work best but also will go with the unique look. Mark and Denny know whats coming down the road but there not talking (at least Mark isn't)....I had to include Denny on all the priviledged sneak peak stuff since at the Nats he thought there was a conspiracy going on, but when we (Mark and myself) told him the truth, he didn't believe us.
Denny says that I overkilled the frame bolt idea and that weld in bungs would work fine but I didn't get that done before It (the Duster) got shipped off to body/paint, so bolt in will have to do, plus I fell better about using both sides of the frame rail with a internal support.
 
76orangewagon said:
Thanks for all the positive comments....I didn't mention it but each button has a LED ring when activated I went White for the majority of the ring LED colors except for the starter button (Red) and marker lights (Amber). I was going to change every color but when I looked at the finished set it looked like a friggin Xmas tree. White will go with the Gauges since there White LED backlit also, hopefully it will have a nice clean appearance when done ........and yes the dash is gettting powdercoated, probally a Satin or Trim black to match the Autometer gauges.
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Where did you get the push buttons?

Thanks,
Mike
 
CudaChris67 said:
Who's push to start are you using? I am planning to use the Ron Francis iStart (includes proximity cards for security)
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Autoloc, if you go the link in the above thread the system is there, my system also has a proximity fob , there are several options in case you want to unlock doors with the proximity fob automatically and security features .
 
Fst73_360 said:
Those are badass, what size did you get? 22mm? And how do or did you wire them up? And where are you putting the turn light buttons?
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Yep, there the 22mm....I actually was hoping for a little bigger diameter but thats the biggest they make. I bought the assembled pigtails and relay kits to save myself several hours of wiring (I hate wiring). Turn signals are staying on the Flaming river steering column, anthing else I need to add will be hidden (like the heater control).
 
76orangewagon said:
Yep, there the 22mm....I actually was hoping for a little bigger diameter but there will have to do since thats the biggest they make. I bought the assembled pig tails and relay kits to save myself several hours of wiring (I hate wiring). Turn signals are staying on the Flaming river steering column, anthing else I need to add will be hidden (like the heater control).
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Where did you get the wired harness? I didn't see it on there. Ok haha I was going to make the signals into push also, but seems like a little more work then needed. For the amber turn signal lights on the dash, where did you get the stuff needed for that? Im rewiring the entire car, so I am trying to get everything before I start. P.S the Park Light button, what lights is that for? Thank You. My name is Mike also.
 
Fst73_360 said:
Where did you get the wired harness? I didn't see it on there. Ok haha I was going to make the signals into push also, but seems like a little more work then needed. For the amber turn signal lights on the dash, where did you get the stuff needed for that? Im rewiring the entire car, so I am trying to get everything before I start. P.S the Park Light button, what lights is that for? Thank You. My name is Mike also.
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Mike,
When I called in my order (I had several question for them), the sales rep asked if I needed the wiring pigtails instead of soldering a wire to each terminal..... so I was all over that. The Amber color is the L.E.D color of the ring when the park lights are activated, headlights are white and park lights button is basically what it says instead of a typical headlight knob where the first catch activates the marker lights, taillights and park lights and pulling the knob all the way out turns on the headlights also I seperated them into two individual functions. Everthing is from Autoloc.
 
76orangewagon said:
Mike,
When I called in my order (I had several question for them), the sales rep asked if I needed the wiring pigtails instead of soldering a wire to each terminal..... so I was all over that. The Amber color is the L.E.D color of the ring when the park lights are activated, headlights are white and park lights button is basically what it says instead of a typical headlight knob where the first catch activates the marker lights, taillights and park lights and pulling the knob all the way out turns on the headlights also I seperated them into two individual functions. Everthing is from Autoloc.
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Thank You. I fully understand now. I was thinking hmmm Headlights is usually all the lights at once, but I see what you did so that the markers and tail lights etc are on one switch and headlights by themselves. I will need to pick up those pigtails. Are you using anything for the turn signal lights on the dash or just eliminating that? Example: Factory had the gauge cluster with left and right arrows I believe. And whats your opinion on moving the ignition switch to the gauge panel, not push button but fully so that the key switch is on the panel?
 
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