HemiMark
Well-Known Member
I agree with you.................. fill the wheel tub!
73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build
- Thread starter 76orangewagon
- Start date
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I agree with you.................. fill the wheel tub!
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
wouldn't you know it I found what I thought would be the perfect tire, but when I went wheel looking for a 17"x12" nobody make that size except ZO6 corvette wheels (not a deep dish wheel). If anybody knows of one this size please let me know I looked at billet specialties, centerline, weld ,ect.....anyway heres the specs on the M & H Racemaster
Tire Size390/40-17Wheel Diameter17 in.Sidewall Style Blackwall Tire Construction Radial Directional Yes Tire Diameter 29.50 in. Section Width 14.30 in. Tread Width 12.50 in. Minimum Recommended Wheel Width12.00 in.
cidVicious
Junior Member
Wow, I have a new found respect for our Air Force.
Awesome job 76! Keep up to great work.
Awesome job 76! Keep up to great work.
swisswill
Well-Known Member
12" wheel seems a bit on the small side for a 390 tire. I would go 13" wheel. But even at 12" you may be looking at a wheel with custom back spacing.
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
Hey dude, when are you going to put the information minister back up as your avatar?
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Well, I got the other wheel tub in and fitting pretty good for now, but the main reason for this update is my new adjustable strut rods and tie rod kit. Since I had some time at work for "training", I borrowed a new set of hotchkis strut rod and tie rod kits for the basic measurements and decided to make some modifications and upgrades to their products. First.. for the strut rods, instead of .850" hollow tubing with welded ends I decided to use solid 1" 4130 tubing and for the K frame support bracket I used 1/4" instead of their 3/16". Second... for the Tie rod kit they use 1 1/4" hollow tubing, again I used the same 4130 1" solid round stock mirroring the same contour I used on the strut rods for uniformity purposes and milled flats for use with a 7/8" wrench for alignment. I must admit that my material choices added a couple pounds but I'll make some cool fancy aluminum parts for the engine compartment down the road and hopefully that will make up for the added suspension weight. I really liked the CAP products design for their version of the adjustable strut rod mounting swivel so I whipped out a prototype of my version again using 4130 steel (more weight). So...next week I'll finish up the final products then decide which I will use, the round design will eliminate the misalignment spacers but the heim will still give me 22 degrees of side to side movement ..this should be plenty on a part designed to go up and down. To capitalize even more on Hotchkis' great design I called them and asked if they would sell me the hardware kit for their products. So for $37.00 I got all the misalignment spacers, tie rod taper spacers and all the grade 8 nuts, bolts and washers to complete the project. ...oh, by way these 2 kits from summit racing cost over $600.00.... currently I have $150.00 invested. My graphic buddy designed and cut out the stencils I used on the parts...and the logos are painted on. In case your wondering "RDG" in RDG Engineering stands for my initals... he put me on the spot and I had to pick a name....hope you enjoy the pics.
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
Dude, that is really cool@ Next time i suggest MAS engineering! LOL
:thumblef: looks really good!
:thumblef: looks really good!
dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
if you want to make another set, let me know. id definately be interested.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
these are made specifically for upgrading stock suspension so I have to feel that with reinforcing the steering box, going with a faster ratio and upgrading all the other suspension parts there should be a noticible improvement. if you meant physically how do they work with stock suspension in regards to fitment, the 1/2" bolts are to be used in conjunction with misalignment spacers and taper adapters.
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
well Ladies and Gentlemen, today I made a crucial decision regarding the build in the near future it looks like I will have to start a new thread with a different Title....first off though I made major steps in installing the quarter panel, I got the door hung and aligned with the quarter panel and tack welded into position, The door jamb area was plug welded and all is going well.. I must admit that this had me worried since I replaced both the full rocker panel and door jamb but all seemed to work out so to me this was a major hurdle...Since I live only 1.5 miles from Summit Racing I decide to go tire shopping and get that ball rolling, first I tried a 305/45R18 since I was going for the "pro Touring" look but the tires just didn't do it for me, so I switched to a 315/60R15 since that what HemiDenny is running and they look good on his car and since they have more of a street tread design but I cant find that tire anywhere I tried a mickey thompson ET drag...it was okay but I had over 1"+ on each side I wanted more tire so tried a Mickey thompson S/R 29 x 15-15 and was sold but there was one major issue. I only had 3/8" max clearance on each side(Frame/ Quarter) and I trimmed the quarter lip to 1/2"....so after heavy debate I have decided to cut out the frame rails and go with a direct fit set of 2" x 3" boxed rails and move them just inside the factory rails, giving me an extra 2.5"of space....so there will be major surgery coming once again for the rear of the car to include splitting the brand new tubbs.....of course this wont take place till the quarters are fully welded on. Oh yea also filled some more firewall holes...boring stuff compared to the rest. Enjoy and all the "are you crazy" comments are gladly welcomed and expected.
.....scalpel please.....
Ross...if you want to make the trip to Findlay...you are more than welcome to come check out my silver Duster...you'll probably come up with a better way to build the mousetrap or rattrap....depending on small or big block of course
Ross...if you want to make the trip to Findlay...you are more than welcome to come check out my silver Duster...you'll probably come up with a better way to build the mousetrap or rattrap....depending on small or big block of course
varlo
Joe- Long Island, Oakdale
I love what your doing with the firewall. I am doing the same thing myself. Keep it up its gunna be sweet!
PS.....it's a MF to put in tubs with the 1/4 on....just ask Mark.....if your going to re-do....leave the 1/4 tacked....just in case you HAVE to remove it for the fabrication.
no charge for the advice...hey..you get what you pay for around here!!!
no charge for the advice...hey..you get what you pay for around here!!!
HemiMark
Well-Known Member
..............................
Dude............ thats is the problem... we can never leave well enough alone! lol
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Actually I was planning on splitting the tubs between the rolled edge and the hinge bracket and add the 2.5" strip, So everything welded in already will stay put except where its welded to the frame rail.
Riddler
Project EH-Body
I'm sure your not the only one.... I'm hoping to limit my build to just 3-4 years but I'm sure it'll be 6 till I'm done changing things...
Keep up the great work on the build 76orangewagon....
Riddler
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
I'm kinda on the 4 year plan myself....unless I keep doing crap like this. Like I said earlier after putting the tire under there, it would bug me down the road if I didnt make it fit now.
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