**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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racerjoe said:
It's been a while, but I think they are around 50lbs/hr- way too small for boosted E-85. I've never heard bad things about high imp injectors. I know a lot of the LS guys are using Siemens DEKA 80lb in boosted applications. That's probably on gas though.
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I need 120's at a minimum.

Read this and you will see what I am taking about. High Impedance Injectors are not the way to go on most aftermarket EFI Set ups.. there is stuff like this all over lots of forums. If you are going to run low impedance injectors there has to be a resistor wired into them or something like the versa fueler. Reason is the board will get too hot and it could meld the solder off. The resistor or versa fueler prevents this from happening.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=342301
 
Mad Dart said:
Lol, I just dropped mine off for a refund. That block won't break. That stuff is all a myth!! I proved it here........Lol
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Careful with a stock block and a procharger. The belt tugs at the snout of the crank and will break/crack the block in the main webbing. I haven't personally seen it on a Chrysler but I have seen it on others at pretty low power levels. One way to fix that is with a front mount reverse rotation blower. Just FYI. My yearly contribution lol.
 
turbodart68 said:
Careful with a stock block and a procharger. The belt tugs at the snout of the crank and will break/crack the block in the main webbing. I haven't personally seen it on a Chrysler but I have seen it on others at pretty low power levels. One way to fix that is with a front mount reverse rotation blower. Just FYI. My yearly contribution lol.
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Gosh darn it.... Reverse Rotation creates a whole new set of problems like chopping out the core support and moving the radiator forward about 6" or so, possibly more.

I would of course dual pin the balancer, but that does not help the TUG... faaarick!

If this is the case. Twin Turbo may be on the menu instead! I am pretty sure I could knock it out pretty quick since I have been here before if I had to go that route.....

Oh boy, here we go again!! :banghead:
 
Guess I havent been following this lately, Procharged with that small block would be killer! I had a small block set up and a D1SC for my car but sold it all off for the big block that I have now. Not sure why I did that now....

I say do some research and see how many issues you can really find with the Procharger tugging that hard on the crank to break the block. I am sure it is possible but it seems like some other issue would have to take place. The block seems like it would be stronger than the belt....
 
CPS and adapter has arrived along with the Coils, 3 bar map sensor and a few pig tails.

Stupid mail person put a notice in the mail box for the MS3 PRO. She rang my gate, I answered it in 1 ring and I could hear her pull off with my frickinnng part. She left others at my gate and some in the mail box. Now I have to go to the HUB tomorrow and pick it up.

I get deliveries all the time and I sign for the ones I need to. She just bailed out on me.

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Mad Dart said:
Stupid mail person put a notice in the mail box for the MS3 PRO. She rang my gate, I answered it in 1 ring and I could hear her pull off with my frickinnng part. She left others at my gate and some in the mail box. Now I have to go to the HUB tomorrow and pick it up.

I get deliveries all the time and I sign for the ones I need to. She just bailed out on me.
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Hate when they do that! Especially when my car is in the driveway and the garage door is open! :banghead:
 
Kenny Ford at PTC converters has a procharged SB mopar. He is a hard core mopar guy and would surely tell you all about it.

Those FiTech 1200# injectors would require a special production run from the same company that makes the ones they now use. Would widen the carb by 3/8" on each side.
 
airwoofer said:
Kenny Ford at PTC converters has a procharged SB mopar. He is a hard core mopar guy and would surely tell you all about it.

Those FiTech 1200# injectors would require a special production run from the same company that makes the ones they now use. Would widen the carb by 3/8" on each side.
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120lb/hr injectors would still be on the ragged edge if you were searching for 1200HP.

See here for the injector calculator when using e85........ You will need 1600cc or 160lb/hr units.

http://www.megamanual.com/flexfuel.htm

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Parts purchasing is almost done for the EFI and Boost conversion.

No going with a Procharger.

I am going Twin Turbo. Twin Turbonetics T Series 78MM compressor, 68mm Exducer, .96 AR Housing. Should be good for an easy 1100 hp to the tires with some left over.
Air to water intercooler, 2.5 gallon water tank, Pump etc etc. I will also be building my own Stainless Steel Turbo Headers. I will update as I go along here and there.

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Matts440 said:
Those parts look familiar lol, welcome back to TT
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Yeah it is close but a little different. 60-2 Crank trigger that bolts directly to the crank mandrel I installed for the Vacuum Pump. Jeep Crank Position Sensor. Computer on this one is an MS3-Pro.
92MM LS Style Throttle body. Coils are the same D585's. I might remote mount them under the fender wells instead of on the valve covers.

Another difference is I will be building my own Stainless Steel Headers. They will come up and over following the valve covers and the collectors will drop down into the Turbo's. The exhaust out of the turbo's will sneak under the Headers to the firewall and tie into the exhaust I have on the car now.

The car will not be torn apart for the fab work either. I will be driving it until it is time to install the parts. It should not be down for more than 2 weeks is the plan. Good thing is I have been here before so all of the thinking has already been done before an loaded in my membrane...We shall see.

Bad picture but the headers will look something like this......

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Mad Dart said:
Yeah it is close but a little different. 60-2 Crank trigger that bolts directly to the crank mandrel I installed for the Vacuum Pump. Jeep Crank Position Sensor. Computer on this one is an MS3-Pro.
92MM LS Style Throttle body. Coils are the same D585's. I might remote mount them under the fender wells instead of on the valve covers.

Another difference is I will be building my own Stainless Steel Headers. They will come up and over following the valve covers and the collectors will drop down into the Turbo's. The exhaust out of the turbo's will sneak under the Headers to the firewall and tie into the exhaust I have on the car now.

The car will not be torn apart for the fab work either. I will be driving it until it is time to install the parts. It should not be down for more than 2 weeks is the plan. Good thing is I have been here before so all of the thinking has already been done before an loaded in my membrane...We shall see.

Bad picture but the headers will look something like this......

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Very nice Louis, can't wait to see it all done, wish I was closer to getting the 67 done, had to change jobs so things have slowed down a bit, till I'm better back up and going.
 
Matts440 said:
Very nice Louis, can't wait to see it all done, wish I was closer to getting the 67 done, had to change jobs so things have slowed down a bit, till I'm better back up and going.
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Right on Matt. It is a trying road for sure even with a lot of the fab work already done to rebuild a whole car!

I think since my cars cage, suspension, wiring is all done and up to par. It will be easier for me to actually complete this one. Well...... That is what I am talking myself into anyway!

I have most everything on the hard parts so the games will begin here soon.

Oh, I forgot to mention I will be using a GM Flex Fuel sensor "Already have it" that gets plumbed into the return fuel line. The MX3 Pro has an input for it so I can run pump fuel and top it off with e85 or even the other way around. It will recognize it and adjust the tune on the fly.

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on man, here i thought i had it bad. build one part, then think of newer better idea and do it all over again. your just on a lot higher budget scale then i am lol.
 
Thats awesome that you can switch like that, not to many e85 station out this way, I'll stick to the pump gas and meth and a race gas tune, since the ms3 that you bought for the 67 can hold two tunes on board and just wire a button in to switch maps.
 
Matts440 said:
Thats awesome that you can switch like that, not to many e85 station out this way, I'll stick to the pump gas and meth and a race gas tune, since the ms3 that you bought for the 67 can hold two tunes on board and just wire a button in to switch maps.
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Yes. It will change your underwear. So many options you could never use them all.

I believe megasquirt dwarfs any system on the market.
 
It is a nice system, just need to wire in the cam and crank sensors you made for it. So that part will all be ready once I get the motor done for it
 
You said you were going to continue to drive it while you build. Does that mean you are converting to EFI while its n/a first and put some miles on it with the MS3?
 
racerjoe said:
You said you were going to continue to drive it while you build. Does that mean you are converting to EFI while its n/a first and put some miles on it with the MS3?
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I need to wire it and make a Fuse & Relay board. I was tossing around the Idea of doing what you said. We shall see.
 
Your car is awesome, I haven't gone through the whole thread yet. Have you ran it at the track yet?
 
baracus said:
Your car is awesome, I haven't gone through the whole thread yet. Have you ran it at the track yet?
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No not yet. Work picked back up and now it is just too damn hot for me. When it cools off then I will make a trip. I have brand new champion wheels and 28-10.50-15 MT Slicks for it.
 
Just fuckin' unbelievable, Louis. Damn,you're dedicated to E.T.'s & speed...
 
More parts....

The intercooler I will have to cut off one side and re weld it the opposite way so boost will enter on the bottom and out the top. It fits well under the driver fender.

I will need to mod the tank as well or possibly the inner fender well on the passenger side, maybe both!! haha. No biggy, all part of the gig. That is a 2.5 Gallon fuel cell with 2 10an fittings on the top and 2 10an fittings on the face of the tank.
The pump will mount to the bottom of the tank. I have a cool looking aluminum clamp/holder that will handle that task. The tank is angled upward on the bottom. It will fit nicely there.

Cut chop rebuild!!

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