I don't think you would see much benefit from using the radiator for an oil cooler, if you are going to go to the effort of plumbing in an engine oil cooler I would just use an aftermarket one.
74 Dart 360 Sport
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You want the engine oil temperature to come up quickly, the advantage to using a cooler in the radiator is that your engine thermostat will help that along. I am plumbing an external air cooled oil cooler on my car but it has a 205F thermostat that bypasses 90% of the flow when the temperature is below 205F and has its own electric fan that has a 205F switch as well. The 10% that runs through the cooler at low temperatures to to help keep the temperature of the oil in that loop about the same as the main loop so when the switch occurs it doesn't pass a slug of cold oil into the engine.
Just FYI - your modern Porsche oil coolers use radiator coolant to also help bring the oil temperature up to operating temperature quickly.
Sorry but did I see in your spreadsheet that you paid $600 for a shifter?
Its the factory 8hp shifter both top and bottom. Used are mostly from wrecked cars and stuck in rain electronics has to be an 8Hp unit. It's the Challenger or TRX style can flip to manual shift. I could have saved cash but I hate the dial shifter.
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Finished up cleaning up welds test fitted many times rear mount. I ran tranny lines and fuel with pfte. These fittings are ok but seems legit garage has a better one that sticks out little farther. I chose not to go under engine and went left side and up for my lines. I will put a heat wrap for the two feet near the headers for gas and trans lines.
I have a new filter and pan coming will do that as well. Then I can fill this up and get ready for tunnel and start up. I know it is slow going but I'm trying to take my time here and it's coming together nicely. I need to get some brackets for a few spots and rubber edging for couple sheet metal spots. I need to draw out a lower support will go under transmission and bolt to lower side of cross member I want it there for bracing and strength.
I have a new filter and pan coming will do that as well. Then I can fill this up and get ready for tunnel and start up. I know it is slow going but I'm trying to take my time here and it's coming together nicely. I need to get some brackets for a few spots and rubber edging for couple sheet metal spots. I need to draw out a lower support will go under transmission and bolt to lower side of cross member I want it there for bracing and strength.
I just grabbed one from ebay.. Was clean looking and had a guarantee for cheap. I understand where you're coming from tho.
Side note: Any 2015 Chrysler Corp, 8 speed car shifter will work, V6/V8, and they all will flip into manual as well. I think the only thing that really changes in the part # is the handle style. Mines (in Hoopty) actually out of a v6 car. BTW, I can't remeber the name of the company but I picked up a pretty cool shift handle adapter that replaces the stock one. It converts the shifter to a push down instead of a button. I was able to put my stock A100 knob on it and a custom boot to get the look I was after. The factory handle has to stay plugged in and tucked away so you don't get any codes. The adapter was like 50 bucks. I probabby have it in an email if you're interested.
I don't know if this will help you or not, but I made a reference chart for when I was adding the additional wiring to the PCS connector. If this is something that will help and you need to modify for your application, I'd be happy to share the excel document. Just made it easier for me to have a reference card.. I like visuals
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Great build thread. Keep the updates coming. 
Starter from Dbelectric worked as expected. The starter is from a 6.1 srt 2007 to 2012 Grand Cherokee fits perfectly on the 8hp70 ZF transmission.
Console dry for Dart should work fine. And the tunnel is forming up nicely.
Console dry for Dart should work fine. And the tunnel is forming up nicely.
Driveshaft is in Tulsa driveshaft incorporated makes a great quality product. It's not 1300 dollars either. 449 and some change out the door. Driveshaft is installed and ready to drive finally! I have to bring the angle up just a degree or so very easily done washer will do it.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Very excited to hear a drive report.
Console is setting in for now will get some brackets and get them at bolted in. I also got the driver's seat in.
Test drive today was uneventful. I need to check fluid I cycled gears and in drive few times first then filled again. Now I need to check one last time since it had a chance to really pump the fluid some more.
Test drive today was uneventful. I need to check fluid I cycled gears and in drive few times first then filled again. Now I need to check one last time since it had a chance to really pump the fluid some more.
Little more driving need to get some data logs and sort out some odd shifting behavior. I think tach is spiking a bit I have some resistors I may have to use to filter out some garbage. Causing it to do some wonky shifting and I'm sure I got some odb codes as well lol. No limp mode though.
What do I think of the swap. Well when its happy holy crap will she go I mean it's mean now! Side ways and ugly if not careful woke this car the hell up. I am overall happy I did this.
I am loving the way car handles now and huge difference with frame connectors in. Right off the bat yes you can tell the difference.
What do I think of the swap. Well when its happy holy crap will she go I mean it's mean now! Side ways and ugly if not careful woke this car the hell up. I am overall happy I did this.
I am loving the way car handles now and huge difference with frame connectors in. Right off the bat yes you can tell the difference.
Liking the console and the buckets can't wait to button interior up fully now. Black RT door cards are coming front and rear and a rear package tray in black. Driving it with the frame connectors and new bucket's it's simply a different car. Even shutting doors and overall handling is night and day it is a little bit heavier but the real story is all the creaks and twisting is now gone. Even rattling is non existent except for door glass which did get better need to hush mat doors and get new hardware it's all original the nylon crap.
So the transmission and la360 combo my thoughts. You hammer it and that 360 hits hard and bam 5k plus rpm hits in seconds and your gone. The car sticks better which is shocking you can hear the tires trying to get loose and feel it a bit. I played with shifting manual it's pointless the 150 millisecond shift are stupid fast. The big cam with this transmission it could careless in fact with this stall and how it locks in. It no longer lurches like it did and idles happily at a stop. Turned the idle up a hair from 700 to 800 to 1000. Helps a lot with the lope and no it does not take off when dropped in gear.
So the transmission and la360 combo my thoughts. You hammer it and that 360 hits hard and bam 5k plus rpm hits in seconds and your gone. The car sticks better which is shocking you can hear the tires trying to get loose and feel it a bit. I played with shifting manual it's pointless the 150 millisecond shift are stupid fast. The big cam with this transmission it could careless in fact with this stall and how it locks in. It no longer lurches like it did and idles happily at a stop. Turned the idle up a hair from 700 to 800 to 1000. Helps a lot with the lope and no it does not take off when dropped in gear.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Very cool!
This picture right here, has convinced me... I'm adding a 8HP behind my 6.4. I hav a bench seat that I'm not willing to give up and it looks like I'll be just fine. (I think)
Something else that I really haven't wanting to give up is my column shift and I don't want a console or dial.. But I know Russel you to sell push button controllers and I could live with that... If he still does them. There has to be a way
I've always kinda curious why these upper hoops don't weld in.. There's already cutting and welding happening anyway. Just seems like they would weld to the xmember and floor tunnel for a stronger setup.
You will not lose your bench very doable.
I am in NE Oklahoma Bartlesville about 40 miles from Tulsa plan on drive by to cars coffee out there now and part of the oldies goodies club here.
Random questions..
1) Do you plan to use a Speedbox (speedhut etc.) so you can use factory speedo?
2) Did you add the park brake release? If the car won't start for any reason, it won't move.
3) OEM breather vent hose?
4) I'm curious what "driveshaft adapter" you used and was $100... I'd like to look at this.. I paid something like 250 for mine (Sonnax) and wouldn't mind saving a few bucks.. If it's HP friendly.
Something to consider with your 6.4 trans, if the shifts are feeling off.. The 6.4s TCM is programmed slightly different than the 5.7, with different mapping and the stall is a little different as well (according to Russel). I was having some aggressive kick downs.. kicks too easy. Russel offered to reprogram the TCM if I wanted to send it to him over the winter. I got on another project and never got around to it.. plus, I really didn't want to pull the valve body and ship it off. But, I did just pick up a 8HP out of an RT.. So it's going into Hoopty and the Scat trans will got to the Dart this winter. Plus, with any used trans, you're rolling the dice and I'd rather roll the dice in Hoopty and put the tried and true trans in the dart.. I can swap a trans in Hoop quick! Hoopty is so easy to work on. The dart.. Not so much. I don't want to play musical transmissions in the Dart.
1) Do you plan to use a Speedbox (speedhut etc.) so you can use factory speedo?
2) Did you add the park brake release? If the car won't start for any reason, it won't move.
3) OEM breather vent hose?
4) I'm curious what "driveshaft adapter" you used and was $100... I'd like to look at this.. I paid something like 250 for mine (Sonnax) and wouldn't mind saving a few bucks.. If it's HP friendly.
Something to consider with your 6.4 trans, if the shifts are feeling off.. The 6.4s TCM is programmed slightly different than the 5.7, with different mapping and the stall is a little different as well (according to Russel). I was having some aggressive kick downs.. kicks too easy. Russel offered to reprogram the TCM if I wanted to send it to him over the winter. I got on another project and never got around to it.. plus, I really didn't want to pull the valve body and ship it off. But, I did just pick up a 8HP out of an RT.. So it's going into Hoopty and the Scat trans will got to the Dart this winter. Plus, with any used trans, you're rolling the dice and I'd rather roll the dice in Hoopty and put the tried and true trans in the dart.. I can swap a trans in Hoop quick! Hoopty is so easy to work on. The dart.. Not so much. I don't want to play musical transmissions in the Dart.
I have an Intellitronix led/LCD gauge cluster this car is long gone from stock all that is long gone.
I have a brake release to install on the to do list.
I used a Benz Force driveshaft adapter 8hp70.
I no longer need a reprogram I got the shifting sorted out via Sport and track mode. Track mode perfect with big cam keeps car at 1500 RPM great feature. Highway I turn off track not needed after 50.
Russell said we can make normal track mode and sport into track mode and then an even wilder one if needed. So far it's great as is.
Rear seat install is coming along I dismantled the bottom welded on brackets. The frame locks right in, I then reattached cover and locked in again. Fits snugs uses factory floor mounts. I also did the upper back again dismantled able to use the upper hooks and will add a long metal 1/8 piece to bolt upper seat back and to brace frame in car. More pictures as I progress the arm rest will be retained in back with cup holders. I removed the folding hinges on upper. I need the brace and didn't plan to have a fold down rear seat.
Reassembled the bottom of seat and installed locked right in to tabs. I plan to use the existing hooks and back support for the rear seats. So I stripped them down to frames and ditched the hinges for a full down seat. It's possible but that support is there for a reason and I got a lot power going down in this car now and that's right where the snubber is, It's like new not touching it.
So I added a slit on back top of frames for the top factory hook and they fit perfectly. I now have to lay a steel strip 1/8 by 1.5 inches flat across bottom back to bolts onto seat frame and then that will bolt to the support behind back seats. I can bolt them in via trunk or slip hand in between seats to bolt and nut. I plan to weld the bolts into strip once location is set so they won't turn!
I should have pictures here later and it will all make sense. This was not very hard at all, I am moving slow on it as it's interior and I am just taking my time. It is a weekend project if you were to follow how I did the front and back seats. Get Challenger seats would be maybe easier and no fold down rear seat would also help. Challenger has fold seats but charger can be modified with a hinge fyi. JEEP CHEROKEE Jeep TJ same deal can change them.
So I added a slit on back top of frames for the top factory hook and they fit perfectly. I now have to lay a steel strip 1/8 by 1.5 inches flat across bottom back to bolts onto seat frame and then that will bolt to the support behind back seats. I can bolt them in via trunk or slip hand in between seats to bolt and nut. I plan to weld the bolts into strip once location is set so they won't turn!
I should have pictures here later and it will all make sense. This was not very hard at all, I am moving slow on it as it's interior and I am just taking my time. It is a weekend project if you were to follow how I did the front and back seats. Get Challenger seats would be maybe easier and no fold down rear seat would also help. Challenger has fold seats but charger can be modified with a hinge fyi. JEEP CHEROKEE Jeep TJ same deal can change them.
Installed my brace and set upper back seat in locked in upper hook and bolted bottom back in. The back brace bolts on the truss behind it. It will have bolts welded to it that slide in to the truss and bolt in. I could use the floor but these are reachable as well. Bottom put I can slip hand in and put but on. Pretty simple very straightforward and the sides fit great and will cover the wheel well. I could put a black piece of carpet on those but seats have a boltster on each side.
No picture but at bottom on back is a 1.5 wide piece 1/8 thick metal piece that bolts to back of seat in existing holes you can see the nuts when installed ticked inside seat frame. The bolts will stick out back of frame different location into the truss and through the back seat material when installed. They already were checked with cushions prior.
No picture but at bottom on back is a 1.5 wide piece 1/8 thick metal piece that bolts to back of seat in existing holes you can see the nuts when installed ticked inside seat frame. The bolts will stick out back of frame different location into the truss and through the back seat material when installed. They already were checked with cushions prior.
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