74 power wagon dream truck...

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j par said:
I finished welding or I should say tacking on my floorboard patches. Both front and back side....
I opened up more cans of worms though.. I took a torch to the rocker panels to get that what looked like rhino liner off. It came off no problem but on the driver side it revealed some pretty thick Bondo...lol.. I have a set of rocker panels in my Summit cart... Again I'll see how they fit as therefore a regular cab. On the good side the club cab area of the rocker panels are pretty good. The driver side is great but the passenger side has had work done to it but it's not that bad.
Also I cut inspection holes on the sides of the cowl's.. there's some cancer in that area that I want to fix proper as well...
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Also out of the three tunnels that I have this one's the best. They don't repop them so you got to use what you can get. It has a little rot on the passenger side so I didn't cut all the floorboard patch out on that side so I can fold it up unbolted on..
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I felt bad about mine lookin a little crappy, but then someone pointed out that I welded more than the factory did. I got to thinkin about it and he was right. Yours looks good to me. Get seam sealer over it and get it painted and it'll look factory.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I felt bad about mine lookin a little crappy, but then someone pointed out that I welded more than the factory did. I got to thinkin about it and he was right. Yours looks good to me. Get seam sealer over it and get it painted and it'll look factory.
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Factory pinch welded every 4 inches I tack welded every inch on both sides...
This truck had zero undercoating and light paint at best from the factory and a light paint job on the top side of the floorboard.. I'm going to use that encapsular / primer on both sides then seam sealer on both sides and then epoxy paint both sides... And on the top side I'll put dynomat from the dashboard all the way up the back wall to the back window... Then carpet...
Not only will it be never seen again you should be able to lunch rockets off of it...
 
j par said:
Factory pinch welded every 4 inches I tack welded every inch on both sides...
This truck had zero undercoating and light paint at best from the factory and a light paint job on the top side of the floorboard.. I'm going to use that encapsular / primer onaon both sides then seam sealer on both sides and then epoxy paint both sides... And on the top side I'll put dynomat from the dashboard all the way up the back wall to the back window... Then carpet...
Not only will it be never seen again you should be able to lunch rockets off of it...
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Kilmat is the same thing but cheaper. I used the 80mil on Vixen.
 
j par said:
Factory pinch welded every 4 inches I tack welded every inch on both sides...
This truck had zero undercoating and light paint at best from the factory and a light paint job on the top side of the floorboard.. I'm going to use that encapsular / primer on both sides then seam sealer on both sides and then epoxy paint both sides... And on the top side I'll put dynomat from the dashboard all the way up the back wall to the back window... Then carpet...
Not only will it be never seen again you should be able to lunch rockets off of it...
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Looking good !! :thumbsup:
 
Okay one more day off today and I made a little bit more progress.. I got this idea from a customer that did this on his back window. I've got some issues at the top of the front window underneath the drip rail.. the drip rail itself will be covered with the chrome but there's some cancer just below it.. I went to the hardware store and found some 3/4 by 3/4 angle.. and it was bent out of flat steal not actual angle iron.. I ended up having to cut a quarter inch out of one side to make it fit up under the drip rail and also on that half inch side give it relief cuts every 4 inches or so to get the radius...
After I got those patches made I also made small patch panels for the corners of the cowl that are rested out.. after those patches were prepared I went ahead and took that brushed and capsular primer and put it down in those areas so when I patch over it it has a sealer.. so now they're ready to go on the next time I have time..
Also why I was at the hardware store I bought 5/16 by 1-in bolts and nuts and washers so I could properly bolt down the transmission cover area. I used the two original screws at the top front and of course like I should before there was one small area of the tunnel that was rusted so I used the floorboard.. I went ahead drilled all the holes and good solid areas and tighten the nuts and bolts on and then welded the nuts in place...
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mopardude62 said:
I’m enjoying this thread…… thanks jpar
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mopardude318 said:
Wow. You are really handling it. Nice work.
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Thank you for the encouragement men!!..
I've got a few days of work ahead of me which will keep me from working on this project, but the work helps my budget for the project.. damned if I do damned if I don't LOL...
 
4spdragtop said:
:thumbsup: great progress J! 1 step at a time.
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Thank you! I ordered those rocker panels from Summit and they were about 75 bucks. So in order to get the free shipping for $100 I went ahead and ordered two tubes of the automotive seam sealer.... I got the automotive seam sealer today but not even an email saying that the rocker panels were sent out yet...:BangHead:...
 
I bugged Summit the last couple of days and got a shipping date for this next Wednesday on the rocker panels...:thumbsup:..
Had a day off finally and got the the patch under the drip rail and the two under the corners of the cowl ..
Leaving the rockers and then prime, seam seal, and paint...
And of course that's just from the windows down and the bottom..
Also prime and seal the inside of the doors..
Then off two body work and paint...
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^^^on my $5 Harbor Freight welding gloves you can see where I had to tape my fingers closed on the left hand as the cheap seams fall apart and let the hot marbles in...:eek:...
 
Got one of those messy jobs done today..
So I go to putting that rust encapsular primer stuff "in" the cowl area.. I knew this was going to be a messy job and I wanted to get it over with. But of course with my luck it had to go nuclear messy..
A half pint container fell out of my hands and splashed onto my driveway!!..:BangHead:....
Of course the stuff is red and as soon as I hit it with the hose.. LOL.. well driveway looked like a bloody massacre.. course I forgot to wear my old shoes and got it on my good shoes. I had it up to my elbows on both arms trying to get my arms up in there.. paint brush and a rag saturated with the stuff... Like I said I knew this was going to be a messy job but boy oh boy...
In the end I think I got about 98% of it if not more. I may have to touch up a couple tiny spots but I think I got most of it and hopefully after it dries getting those tiny spots won't be so damn messy cuz everything else should be dry...
:rolleyes:..
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One rocker panel is coming from Michigan Thursday and one from Texas Wednesday... I don't have a day off till Thursday so hopefully I'll be able to report back Thursday...
 
Got a surprise visit from the FedEx guy...
And an extra day off...
Soooo...
Tomorrow I'm going to cut off the drivers side rocker panel and try and get the new one on... Never done it before, but I never did a lot of things before till I did...:thumbsup:..
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Got the drivers side rocker cleaned up and ready for the rust encapsular primer..
Went to the dollar store and bought a couple of dish wands... Bent one for getting some spots I missed in the cowl area.. hopefully I can utilize the wands to spread the paint in the had to reach areas...
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Well I kept waiting for the other shoe to drop and so far knock on wood it didn't...
The last two times I used that red rust encapsular primer it was a terrible mess..
This time I was way way more careful with it LOL..
I pretty much have the driver side ready to tack back on... I've got the insides all coated with the rust and capsular primer..
I think I'm going to drill holes every couple inches around the outside of the patch piece so I can weld through and tack it on...
Took that Dollar tree wond and shoved it in the 18-in area of the extra cab rocker and got that all sealed up....
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That little bit of cancerous area up front is all covered by the patch panel that also gives it structural integrity..
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's all about the same comparing the same thickness.
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I need a whole heck of a lot of it..
The floor itself is at least a 6x6.. being a club cab and all.. I want to do the firewalls the kick panels the inside of the doors up the back wall to the bottom of the back window and up the sidewalls in the club cab area up to the side windows... And maybe even some stuff up on the ceiling underneath the headliner glue on padding thing...
 
j par said:
I need a whole heck of a lot of it..
The floor itself is at least a 6x6.. being a club cab and all.. I want to do the firewalls the kick panels the inside of the doors up the back wall to the bottom of the back window and up the sidewalls in the club cab area up to the side windows... And maybe even some stuff up on the ceiling underneath the headliner glue on padding thing...
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Keep in mind, you don't have to cover the WHOLE surface to get the effect. I did with mine, though. In my mind, for the heat and cold insulation, the whole surface needs covering, even though "they" say it doesn't. I covered the entire floor, inside of the roof and trunk floor. I'm going back and covering all of the inside of the outer door skins I can get to, the inner sides of the quarters and maybe the under side of the hood. I thought about the underside of the trunk lid, but I'm unsure if the trunk sprAngs can hold the extra weight.
 
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