As long as its not one of those carpentry pancake compressors it will run a low pressure gun, they only work on like 15 psi, not 90 psi like the old school suction cup guns.
74 power wagon dream truck...
- Thread starter j par
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j par
Well-hung Member
Yep that's basically what I have LOL I think it's a 6 gallon 150 psi...
j par
Well-hung Member
I bought a gallon of this newfangled rust encapsulator / primer coat stuff and it can be mixed with 20% water for spraying in a gun.. I think I'm going to spend the $16 and buy one of those Harbor Freight guns with my cheap little Harbor Freight compressor and see if I can't do my floorboards..
That's a pretty good video link on Amazon.. it's pretty good reviews as well. I've got a pint of por15 coming but I think I'm going to go with this.. it says the gallon will cover a thousand square feet which should be enough to do my next three projects LOL but of course a pint probably just fall a tick short.. (I know my luck LOL...)
That's a pretty good video link on Amazon.. it's pretty good reviews as well. I've got a pint of por15 coming but I think I'm going to go with this.. it says the gallon will cover a thousand square feet which should be enough to do my next three projects LOL but of course a pint probably just fall a tick short.. (I know my luck LOL...)
j par
Well-hung Member
^^^ worst case scenario I'll just break out the paintbrush..
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
If you get to that point use a foam brush. I used semi-gloss black tremclad (rustoleum) to seal the bottom of my dart and put it on heavy and it self levels and basically leaves no brush strokes. Wouldn't reccommend it for visible body panels maybe, but for floor and underside and where it is less visible it worked great.
Looking good by the way. Making good progress. Looking forward to seeing it all come together.
j par
Well-hung Member
I kind of like this product being water soluble as even if I have some moisture in my air compressor it wouldn't hurt it...
The bottom of that car looks perfect!!
Good job as well!...
j par
Well-hung Member
A lot of the rush converter encapsulars seem to want the surface to be rusty for it to cure. This product seems more like it will convert and capsule and primer so I'm hoping that if I just put it on my sandblasted metal that it will dry to the hard surface and take care of any flash rusting.. I have a email question out to the manufacturer..
Might be time to upgrade. It sounds like you do enough work to justify one.
j par
Well-hung Member
Okay learned a lot today...
First the $16 Harbor Freight spray gun is completely awesome! .. completely changed my outlook on painting.. likely won't buy any more rattle cans again.. I'll probably just use up what I have and buy industrial enamel...
My little 6 gallon Harbor Freight compressor did fine for this little trial but I do think it would be nice to have something bigger..
So what I learned about spraying this xionlabs 2 in 1 stuff.. I was seeing how it would work on non-rusted metal, my dog house that was partially sandblasted and still had some Factory paint. The first coat went on really nice and I probably should have stopped right there.. I didn't let it 100% dry by any means but went on with a thick second coat and I believe that's what ended up peeling on it.. lesson learned..
It's like The Good the bad and the ugly LOL but when I took my heavy wire brush on that ugly part that flanked it just knocked off a few of the flakes and was still Rock solid like concrete..
I think tomorrow I'll just scrub and wash my floorboards and let them dry overnight and then Monday try and mix up some the stuff and spray the floorboard inside and out.. WITH ONE COAT!! LOL...
First the $16 Harbor Freight spray gun is completely awesome! .. completely changed my outlook on painting.. likely won't buy any more rattle cans again.. I'll probably just use up what I have and buy industrial enamel...
My little 6 gallon Harbor Freight compressor did fine for this little trial but I do think it would be nice to have something bigger..
So what I learned about spraying this xionlabs 2 in 1 stuff.. I was seeing how it would work on non-rusted metal, my dog house that was partially sandblasted and still had some Factory paint. The first coat went on really nice and I probably should have stopped right there.. I didn't let it 100% dry by any means but went on with a thick second coat and I believe that's what ended up peeling on it.. lesson learned..
It's like The Good the bad and the ugly LOL but when I took my heavy wire brush on that ugly part that flanked it just knocked off a few of the flakes and was still Rock solid like concrete..
I think tomorrow I'll just scrub and wash my floorboards and let them dry overnight and then Monday try and mix up some the stuff and spray the floorboard inside and out.. WITH ONE COAT!! LOL...
j par
Well-hung Member
Okay is second look at the instructions and the window for a second coat of this stuff is 2 to 4 hours.. not 5 minutes like I did it LOL.. lesson learned and anyways I should have never put a second coat on this to begin with. From here out I will likely just put one coat of it and then a top coat of regular paint...
But again where it did bubble up underneath has the first coat and again a heavy wire brush while it was still semi-uncured barely phased it...
But again where it did bubble up underneath has the first coat and again a heavy wire brush while it was still semi-uncured barely phased it...
It almost looks like a moisture problem. It shouldn't have peeled simply because you jumped the gun on the 2nd coat I don't believe. Are you using some kinda moisture filter? Even those little cheapy red plastic inline ones are better than nuthin.
Nice 
the spray gun will save on the cost of material.
once you get use to a spray gun and it's ease of application.
Your jobs will get bigger and less dependent on others to do the priming or painting.
the spray gun will save on the cost of material.once you get use to a spray gun and it's ease of application.
Your jobs will get bigger and less dependent on others to do the priming or painting.
I'd hit that area that bubbled up with solvent and some course sand paper.
It looks like there is a chemical reaction with a foreign substance
It looks like there is a chemical reaction with a foreign substance
I agree with fishmens67, probably just a little spot of grease, dirt or sometimes even a fingerprint will leave enough foreign material to wrinkle the paint. I usually wipe my parts with prep-sol to make sure they are ultra clean before applying paint.
Anyway, just a suggestion. I’m enjoying your build thread, thanks for posting.
Anyway, just a suggestion. I’m enjoying your build thread, thanks for posting.
I use rust bullet metal blast to clean and etch bare metal before top coating.
j par
Well-hung Member
After the sandblasting I gave that tunnel a good scrub with Dawn soap and water yesterday and then it let it dry overnight. Pretty much tried to handle it with rubber gloves as well. Again it didn't bubble from underneath it just bubbled the second coat. I think and I don't know but really I'm thinking it was the application of the second coat just too quick and too thick as the instructions say between 2 and 4 hours not 5 minutes...
The first coat looked very good.. I didn't do that bubbling or anything till I started hitting it with the second coat. It really says one coat is all you need if you're going to put paint over it anyways. And actually that's what I should have done. Again this was just a first time test run and I knew I'd do something wrong... That's generally the way I learn LOL..
from here out it's one coat on everything and then a top coat with some other kind of paint after 48 hours according to the instructions...
j par
Well-hung Member
It kind of reminds me of SEM Rust shield which I've used. It's not water based like the stuff your using though.
I've used rust mort alot too. nasty stuff.
a water based product that works would be good, I hope to hear good reviews about the product you're using from you, time will tell
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I’ve always used rattle can paint, my whole life till this day. Maybe I should just get past the fear of mixing and spraying and air pressure etc etc and just go buy a cheap gun like y’all say and just learn how to do it.
Keep up the work jpar.
Keep up the work jpar.
j par
Well-hung Member
Yes totally my rattle can days ended today! I did take the gun apart and cleaned it with some mineral spirits all the inner parts and everything. And it even an instruction says to sand that rod a little bit and you can see the crud on it and how smooth it feels after you just sand it for 1 minute. But that said I put a little mineral spirits and kind of sprayed it out to clean it and then use that to kind of adjust it. then I put a little bit of water in it to clean that out and spread it out because the product that I use is water soluble... I also watch some videos on just buying a can of industrial strength enamel rustoleum from home Depot and I think don't quote me but using acetone four to one...
Again my rattle can days ended today. Definitely my teeny tiny compressor can keep up with one rattle can no problem and a much much better job...
The stuff I'm using you probably don't even need a respirator but I still put mine on..
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I see a bigger air compressor in your future , not because you need one, just because you want one to move on to the next phase.
painting your car and truck, with a little practice you could do it. It's not that hard to lay a solid color.
painting your car and truck, with a little practice you could do it. It's not that hard to lay a solid color.
Mineallmine
Well-Known Member
I've had that happen as well when I didn't wait long enough between coats. My research came up with the same as you. Not enough time for off gassing during cutting process of each coat. You won't regret going away from rattle can. I too have just switched over. Bought a cheap husky gun for all the primer work I've done. Just started doing color. Using a good quality gun for that. Amazing how much easier it lays down. Keep up the good work
j par
Well-hung Member
The first layer went down perfect. The first layer is still there and is still perfect. It's the second layer that's peeling in small areas.. even when I take a heavy wire brush on it the first layer is like cement... The product can be painted over wet metal and I used 20% distilled water to thin it.. I find it hard to believe a tick of moisture in the line is going to hurt it... I strongly believe it's just like the instructions said if I'm going to put a second layer it should be between the two to four hour time mark not 3 to 5 minutes later and twice as thick... They even talk about the second coat if you're going to use a second coat to be thinner..
Again in the future with this specific product I will probably just put one coat and use like it says any kind of paint for a second coat... 48 hours later of course as per instructions...
Edit: I just took you off ignore again so don't piss me off dummy... LOL...
I see. So it's water based. That shoots that theory in the bootay.
j par
Well-hung Member
I got the firewall all cleaned up today. I used a torch and scraper to clean the factory tar off which works surprisingly faster and easier than I thought it would..
Then I took out my disc flap sander and cleaned it all up. I'll need clean metal as I plan to seal up the large heater hole on the passenger side and also the small oval clutch hole under the steering column and also the square hole for the electrical plugs...
I took some Dawn soap and a scrubber and scrubbed all the floorboards as tomorrow I plan on putting a layer of that brushed encapsular sealer around the areas I plan to double up the metal. I have the generic floor patches for the front that I need to patch some areas in the back and in the back sides... I'll likely just tack the patches in and then use my sanding disc around the edges to get clean metal again... I'll likely clean and lightly sand the backside of the patches and paint them with that sealer as well. Likely tomorrow I'm just going to brush it on in those areas and use a little mini 4-in roller.. then once everything is welded in I'll give everything a good coat with that sealer primer.. then use a seam sealer caulk of some kind and then a top coat of epoxy paint...
Then I took out my disc flap sander and cleaned it all up. I'll need clean metal as I plan to seal up the large heater hole on the passenger side and also the small oval clutch hole under the steering column and also the square hole for the electrical plugs...
I took some Dawn soap and a scrubber and scrubbed all the floorboards as tomorrow I plan on putting a layer of that brushed encapsular sealer around the areas I plan to double up the metal. I have the generic floor patches for the front that I need to patch some areas in the back and in the back sides... I'll likely just tack the patches in and then use my sanding disc around the edges to get clean metal again... I'll likely clean and lightly sand the backside of the patches and paint them with that sealer as well. Likely tomorrow I'm just going to brush it on in those areas and use a little mini 4-in roller.. then once everything is welded in I'll give everything a good coat with that sealer primer.. then use a seam sealer caulk of some kind and then a top coat of epoxy paint...
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