No, they won’t swap over, not even close. Different caliper mounts, calipers, rotors. It’s all different.
The Dana 60’s already had disc brakes, I think they came out in ‘75 for dodge.
74 power wagon dream truck...
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The Dana 60’s already had disc brakes, I think they came out in ‘75 for dodge.
j par
Well-hung Member
So I take it the Chevy 3/4 ton is a Dana 44 and that's why the disc mounting plates fit right on the dodge?..
Yes exactly, Chevy and Dodge used the Dana 44, of course they spec it out a little different for each manufacturer, so there is small differences, but most parts interchange. (Inner/outer axle shafts, u joints, bearings, races, seals, ball joints, gears, all the same)
now Chevy for some reason in the later years (I guess to save money?) made there own front axle designed off of the Dana 44, which was called the Chevy 10 Bolt axle, everything off those interchange as well. So parts are everywhere for the Dana 44.
Ford used ‘em too.
j par
Well-hung Member
Thank you for all that! One last burning question LOL or is columbo would say just one more thing... What about the bolt pattern or the center opening?..
Bolt pattern is all the same Chevy Ford Dodge...= 8 on 6.5” that goes well into the 90’s to early 2000’s. My 2002 Ram 2500 24v diesel is still 8 on 6.5 lug pattern.
I think Dodge had the largest center opening, swapping factory wheels ya gotta be careful. Aftermarket Wheels, they mostly all came with the larger center opening to fit the Big 3.
j par
Well-hung Member
Okay now this is very Colombo like LOL...
My next question is the proportioning valve? I understand I'll probably get the master cylinder with the bigger front reservoir for disc brakes...
Yea, when I swapped my truck over to disc, I only was able to drive it for a day, but I didn’t change the master cylinder OR the prop valve. It seemed to stop just fine. The brakes worked excellent.
so what I’m doing right now, is I had the brake booster rebuilt locally since you can’t buy them new or refurbished anywhere. And I had the same shop switch the iron master cylinder out for the later aluminum MC the later year trucks came with. I think the stud size is different so the shop switched to 5/16 studs instead of 3/8 the cast iron master uses. Some years had 2 bolt M/C some had the older 4 bolt, mine was 2 bolt so it swapped over easily.
im going to change to the disc/drum combination valve that came off the ‘89 that had the donor axles I used.
here’s the master cylinder, if you try to directly bolt the aluminum one on, stud size is wrong and it won’t fit.
And you can see the factory metering valve bolted on there, I will bolt the disc/drum combo valve in its place. I’m not sure to use the factory style or the aftermarket brass one I have laying on the spring.
so what I’m doing right now, is I had the brake booster rebuilt locally since you can’t buy them new or refurbished anywhere. And I had the same shop switch the iron master cylinder out for the later aluminum MC the later year trucks came with. I think the stud size is different so the shop switched to 5/16 studs instead of 3/8 the cast iron master uses. Some years had 2 bolt M/C some had the older 4 bolt, mine was 2 bolt so it swapped over easily.
im going to change to the disc/drum combination valve that came off the ‘89 that had the donor axles I used.
here’s the master cylinder, if you try to directly bolt the aluminum one on, stud size is wrong and it won’t fit.
And you can see the factory metering valve bolted on there, I will bolt the disc/drum combo valve in its place. I’m not sure to use the factory style or the aftermarket brass one I have laying on the spring.
but I’m also contemplating if I should get a bracket and mount the combo valve under the master. I don’t know what I wanna do, I kinda like it under the master because my headers are awfully close to the brake lines down there when they have to go over the frame up to the booster.
j par
Well-hung Member
I just now seen this post?!...
I got the one you have in your hand today.. it was on a power wagon with front disc brakes.... And had bolts that went through the side you're holding and screwed right into a bracket that was tapped for them... Factory stuff that was on a 74 to 72...
I was able to get a set of plastics for the club cab area which are getting very hard to find and good condition. These were in pretty good condition but not perfect. I also got a little belt hangers and the Caps that go below the rear seats to close off the rocker panel area.
I got the larger inside door openers that go with the metal inner door panels that I have. He also had one armrest extra and I grabbed that too in case I have any problems with the ones I have..
Also grabbed a near perfect driver side front fender that still had Factory paint. my driver's fender is really super nice except for it has a crunch for the bumper was pushed into it and kind of a difficult area for body work.. also a perfect front ballast...
j par
Well-hung Member
Oh yeah and I dropped that 1977 360 block off at the machine shop..
I also had a long conversation with the owner of a powder coating shop that I'd like to use for the frame and axles and other parts. I also got the color chart from him...
I also had a long conversation with the owner of a powder coating shop that I'd like to use for the frame and axles and other parts. I also got the color chart from him...
j par
Well-hung Member
While waiting for the person who bought the engine from the truck I pulled the drip rail chrome and window chrome off. The windshield wipers the windshield wiper motor the power steering pump and the front shocks. Wasn't feeling like getting underneath it today, but selling the motor was huge... Now I have a budget for blasting and powder coating the frame and Axel's..
@halfafish eat my dust...
.. LOL..
@halfafish eat my dust...
.. LOL..
j par
Well-hung Member
Got some practice taking off a Ford cab today... (Costumers).. made a plate to hold 4×4 posts... Worked great...
j par
Well-hung Member
I took off these diamond plate bed top rails... You know I was thinking of the worst.. RUST DENTS... ECT....
Absolutely perfect top rails on the bed!!..
Couldn't believe it..
Absolutely perfect top rails on the bed!!..
Couldn't believe it..
j par
Well-hung Member
Still in a bit of a holding pattern till I can get my state inspection early april. Again they want to see a cab and a frame. I want to leave the bench seat in brakes and a steering wheel to make it easy to get on and off the trailer as it's generally just me with my wife helping with most all of my projects...
Tomorrow I plan to spend some time getting the wiring out of the dash and still hesitant to get underneath as it would be a lot better to wait till the cab and the bed come off and it will be right there in front of me instead of lying on the ground having a rust and dirt falling in my eyes...
Tomorrow I plan to spend some time getting the wiring out of the dash and still hesitant to get underneath as it would be a lot better to wait till the cab and the bed come off and it will be right there in front of me instead of lying on the ground having a rust and dirt falling in my eyes...
j par
Well-hung Member
Right now I'm doing more research on sandblasting especially for the frame and the axles.. but it will likely go further than that as I probably will have quite a bit sandblasted if not everything... It seems like you're locally at least it's not very cheap especially when I look online it seems back East it's a little less expensive as it's probably more needed LOL... Then there's two powder coat or not to powder coat..
A good epoxy paint would be a good option on the frame.
It would last and look good.
A good option if you decide not to powder coat
It would last and look good.
A good option if you decide not to powder coat
j par
Well-hung Member
my problem is living in a suburban neighborhood where I'll be doing any painting out my driveway at a nice day. Which limits spraying or anything like that... I could roll or brush on Port 15 or something like that but I was wanting to kind of go for a custom color since I'm going all the way down to the frame...
I was thinking of something like this metallic silver on the frame and axles and possibly many other small parts like the metal inner door panels and the dashboard and possibly even the chrome the bumpers and the very nice grill that I have... Probably the dark green is what I would go with as far as paint again so green and silver..
j par
Well-hung Member
Pulled wiring out of the dash... Pulled up rubber floor mats.. kind of plucked it somewhat clean.. left seat steering wheel and break's... Still have three weeks till inspection so I'm trying to leave it sealed till then.. not sure how much of this cab will come back from the blaster..lol...
I fully expected front floorboards but it's going to be a little more than that...
I fully expected front floorboards but it's going to be a little more than that...
j par
Well-hung Member
Order new floorboards today, might as well get them coming..
I toyed with the idea of another cab which I know someone who's got a couple, but of course they'll need floorboards as well but less rust in other places... That just brings on more title issues with all of the serial numbers being in the driver's door jamb... I toyed with the idea of just cutting out the door jamb LOL but that just seems like too much as well... I'm figuring at some point this summer I'll run completely out of money which won't take long after having the frame powder coated. Which will give me lots of long summer hours to wire wheel grind and weld. I have a Hood skin from a duster for some sheet metal... Luckily 90% of the problems of the cab are interior. a little bit of the drip rail that needs some attention but I'm hoping it's not going to be too bad once I take the front windshield out.... Left a little discouraged after the amount of rust I found yesterday but purchasing the new floorboards gave me a little boost and again the thought of plenty of work to do helps as well... I don't think it's unsavable cab but it's not going to be easy this time...
I toyed with the idea of another cab which I know someone who's got a couple, but of course they'll need floorboards as well but less rust in other places... That just brings on more title issues with all of the serial numbers being in the driver's door jamb... I toyed with the idea of just cutting out the door jamb LOL but that just seems like too much as well... I'm figuring at some point this summer I'll run completely out of money which won't take long after having the frame powder coated. Which will give me lots of long summer hours to wire wheel grind and weld. I have a Hood skin from a duster for some sheet metal... Luckily 90% of the problems of the cab are interior. a little bit of the drip rail that needs some attention but I'm hoping it's not going to be too bad once I take the front windshield out.... Left a little discouraged after the amount of rust I found yesterday but purchasing the new floorboards gave me a little boost and again the thought of plenty of work to do helps as well... I don't think it's unsavable cab but it's not going to be easy this time...
Roll on its back, I would use an old mattress to cushion it.
To move it around, you could build a cheap wood frame, with harbor freight casters.
j par
Well-hung Member
Actually thinking about putting Harbor Freight casters on my snowmobile sled Deck.. it's 8x8..
Staying with that cab is a good idea. If you have the metal fab skills to fix it, you’re in excellent shape. I haven’t ever done much welding so I usually hire it out. You’ll get there.
j par
Well-hung Member
Well I'm in a holding pattern for this whole Vin inspection thing gets done...
My hands are tied on most things and on the others like all the stuff underneath the truck seems a big pain to go through if I'm going to soon after the inspection have the cab and the bed off... no sense grabbing around underneath it on the ground when I'll be able to just reach out and get the stuff off...
My hands are tied on most things and on the others like all the stuff underneath the truck seems a big pain to go through if I'm going to soon after the inspection have the cab and the bed off... no sense grabbing around underneath it on the ground when I'll be able to just reach out and get the stuff off...
You guys also have to have vin inspections there, we do here because there is not enough numbers and it get rejected by the data base.
I need to get it done on my 46 dodge, because the vin only has 8 vin numbers, even though it has a clean WV titile.
j par
Well-hung Member
Just if the title is from out of state..
From my house it's quicker to go to Washington than it is to go to downtown...
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