8.8 swap

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dart360swinger

dart360swinger

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I got a 8.8 out of a 97 exploder this last week. It came with disc brakes, limited slip, 3.73 gears, complete driveshaft, u-bolts and brakets all for $150. I'm going to shorten the long side axle tube and center up the rear-end. That will bring the rear within an inch of the factory A-body rear. It will also let me use an extra short side axle shaft, so no custom axles. If your wondering why not get a 8 3/4 well I plan on doing the whole swap for around $200. You couldn't hardly get a bare A-body housing for that much!

Here's a few pictures. I'll post more as I go along. I'm going to move the rear springs into the frame when I do the swap also.


Jake

I got most of the info to do this swap from this site, so thanks to everyone who's posted about this in the past!

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Is there some kind of conversion kit to get a regular pinion yoke or how will you deal with that?
 
Just a conversion u-joint from dodge drive shaft to ford yoke. I have a 8" in the dart now and I'm kinda hopin it might work, but I havn't measured yet. It's a conversion u joint. If it dosen't I'll just get the measument's and go look in the spicer book.


Jake
 
Looking good. You should be able to find a yoke that will work. These things came in about a million mustangs.

I did a 9" conversion on my dart and used the 8.8 disc brakes from an exploder and was actually able to use the parking brakes and tie them into the darts cable. Works great.
 
dart360swinger said:
Just a conversion u-joint from dodge drive shaft to ford yoke. I have a 8" in the dart now and I'm kinda hopin it might work, but I havn't measured yet. It's a conversion u joint. If it dosen't I'll just get the measument's and go look in the spicer book.


Jake
Click to expand...

I went to 1330 yokes and U-joints in my build. I had them turn down a 1330 yoke to fit the drive shaft and they welded it up and balanced it.
 
If you're running a 727 or 833 a late 60's Imperial or 440 C body driveshaft will work, it just needs cut down- they used 1330 U joints.


I used one from a 68 Imperial in my 68 Dart to mate a 833 to a 8.8, after getting 6-8" taken out it went right in.
 
MoparJoe20 said:
If you're running a 727 or 833 a late 60's Imperial or 440 C body driveshaft will work, it just needs cut down- they used 1330 U joints.


I used one from a 68 Imperial in my 68 Dart to mate a 833 to a 8.8, after getting 6-8" taken out it went right in.
Click to expand...


Just for price wise I'm really just hoping to use the dart's stock drive shaft. So the 8.8 u joints are the 1330's? What is the stock a-body's? 7260? 7290? If it's one of those, I can just get a conversion u joint and be done with it.


Thanks
Jake
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
That u joint shows "Status: Back Ordered Item... Please Call".

Post it if you do get it from them.
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i don't think I'll actually get it from them. I just meant I'll get that particular u-joint. NAPA should carry it (as long as they dont want a ton for it) that's probably where I'll get it.


Thanks
Jake
 
If you center the yoke you'll be off 1-3/4" from stock A-body specs as their yoke is not centered. It's off center to the pass. side 1-3/4".

Also how are you going to bolt up that U-joint to the flange that's on the rearend now? Won't you have to swap the yoke for a conventional style? If so why not just get a conventional 7260 yoke so you don't have to run a conversion U-joint?
 
fishy68 said:
If you center the yoke you'll be off 1-3/4" from stock A-body specs as their yoke is not centered. It's off center to the pass. side 1-3/4".

Also how are you going to bolt up that U-joint to the flange that's on the rearend now? Won't you have to swap the yoke for a conventional style? If so why not just get a conventional 7260 yoke so you don't have to run a conversion U-joint?
Click to expand...


I'm just centering the differential. The pinion still sits to the one side about that 1-3/4 your taking about.

I have the drive shaft flange that bolts to the rear end. I just need the conversion u joint from it to the drive shaft. I've heard they're stronger, smoother, just alot more modern benifits.

It's at the other end of the shaft from the picture, but you get the idea.

Jake

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dart360swinger said:
I'm just centering the differential. The pinion still sits to the one side about that 1-3/4 your taking about.

I have the drive shaft flange that bolts to the rear end. I just need the conversion u joint from it to the drive shaft. I've heard they're stronger, smoother, just alot more modern benifits.

It's at the other end of the shaft from the picture, but you get the idea.

Jake
Click to expand...

Ok. Sounds like a good plan.
 
I got the housing cut down today. I was pretty nervous about it, but everything seems to have went okay. Now I just have to build the frame boxes, get a shaft, u-joint and It should be ready to bolt in.






Jake

I cant get the attachment section to work. I'll post the pictures later.
 
I got a little bit done today. I picked up the axle shaft I needed. $26, pretty good especially for how easy they are to pull! I got the axle tacked back together too. I'm hopin to get it welded up tomorrow, and start putting it all back together. I also picked up the sheet metal and round stock for the spring relocation. I'm starting to get excited to get this thing in there, and do a big (2 tire) burnout!:cheers:


Jake
 
Looking good. Some people don't like welding them back together without using a jig, but I have heard of guys doing it without and not having any problems. Looks like a good cheap alternative to the 8 3/4.
 
Badart said:
Looking good. Some people don't like welding them back together without using a jig, but I have heard of guys doing it without and not having any problems. Looks like a good cheap alternative to the 8 3/4.
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Ya I kinda figure as long as the tacks hold it really cant go anywhere. Hopefully.


Jake
 
dart360swinger said:
Ya I kinda figure as long as the tacks hold it really cant go anywhere. Hopefully.


Jake
Click to expand...

Actually it can if you get it too hot which can happen real easy using a welder. Heat can warp it a lot easier than you might think. Even thick metal like that. Your best bet is to weld a little (1 inch at a time) then go to the other side and weld a little. Back and forth like that letting it cool a couple minutes between welds. JMO
 
fishy68 said:
Actually it can if you get it too hot which can happen real easy using a welder. Heat can warp it a lot easier than you might think. Even thick metal like that. Your best bet is to weld a little (1 inch at a time) then go to the other side and weld a little. Back and forth like that letting it cool a couple minutes between welds. JMO
Click to expand...


I just meant if I weld it right (like you discribed) it shouldn't move, or warp enough to make a difference.


I started on the dissasembly this morning. Some one who owned the car before me welded a trailer hitch to the frame. I'm probably going to leave the 1/4 inch plate on the frame, since the leaf's are wider than the frame anyways, it should just add some strength.

You can see the big difference in rear-ends. The 8.8 has a whole inch bigger axle tube than the 8". The axle shafts themselves are a lot larger on the 8.8 too. I'll pull one later and take a picture of the two. For now here's a couple pics.

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