AlV 69 Dodge GTS project

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Are you, or did you put the marking's back on the rear axel? You had good photos of them prior to re-paint!
 
1969VADart said:
I see you had a former AC car with that valve on the passenger side of the inner fender. I was worried about the ugliness of putting that valve back in my car (sans AC), but your set up gives me hope that it can still be done cleanly.
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I have the original AC Hardware but have decided to put a Sanden unit in there eventually.

Initially i thought the same as you, and thought is was going to look bad but I am happy with the way the heater hoses routed.
 
1969383S said:
Are you, or did you put the marking's back on the rear axel? You had good photos of them prior to re-paint!
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I have not put the marking on yet but I will.. I just need to find the right stamps and paints.
Also one of the numbers was a partial so I have to figure out what the whole string is.
 
AlV said:
I have the original AC Hardware but have decided to put a Sanden unit in there eventually.

Initially i thought the same as you, and thought is was going to look bad but I am happy with the way the heater hoses routed.
Click to expand...

I also took the AC condenser completely out of the heater box and sealed up the vent opening with a piece of sheet metal inside the car and made a metal plate to cover the holes in the firewall. Would have taken the valve off the car, but I wasn't sure that the rest of the heater box controls would work properly and I didn't want to give up heat in my car all together.
 
red69 said:
Hi AIV I was wondering if you had or could take a picture of the pass side parking brake cable routing if it goes along the rear axle and where it is clamped? I bothered you once before on the Detroit muscle tech stuff which by the way I too was happy with Thanks. Really enjoy your thread. Thanks Rick
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Hi Rick! thanks for the ups on the thread. It's been a lot of fun.

I took some pictures but they may not be the greatest. Let me know if you need more.
On the rear I used the clamp that is on the front of the third member between the drum and the diff. On the body there is a mount for the clamp right next too and above the bracket for the hose. you can see it in the last picture.

The paper towels you see in the pictures are there for track any leaks that I may have at the fittings.
 

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MOPARMITCH said:
Looks Really Great !! Great Progress !!
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Thanks Mitch!

I'm very close to the end but I'm starting to stall a bit. Fixing up loose ends with the wiring. And I have to pull out the steering column to install the dash but tah should happen this weekend.

I still have to give it a systems check to make sure every thing works and finally fire.

But before I fire I think I need to install a jumper across the ballast resistor. The reason I say that is because I think that is one way to tie "ign 1" to "ign 2" for the MSD controller although I could be wrong.
 
1969VADart said:
I also took the AC condenser completely out of the heater box and sealed up the vent opening with a piece of sheet metal inside the car and made a metal plate to cover the holes in the firewall. Would have taken the valve off the car, but I wasn't sure that the rest of the heater box controls would work properly and I didn't want to give up heat in my car all together.
Click to expand...

Gotta have some heat in the car for sure.

I think that valve is there stop the circulation of coolant to the heater core.
With out it there would be a bit of heat bleeding into the AC box when the AC is on.
 
AlV said:
Thanks Mitch!

I'm very close to the end but I'm starting to stall a bit. Fixing up loose ends with the wiring. And I have to pull out the steering column to install the dash but tah should happen this weekend.

I still have to give it a systems check to make sure every thing works and finally fire.

But before I fire I think I need to install a jumper across the ballast resistor. The reason I say that is because I think that is one way to tie "ign 1" to "ign 2" for the MSD controller although I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

Looks like I'm working opposite of you. Got my GTS 383 fired up last week and broke in. Then I pulled the windshield since it was smashed from years ago. Thought I would just clean up the channel and replace all clips. But.... I dont like the paint on the dash frame. SO... Gonna pull the column and dash. See... Opposite You LOL.
Far as the jumper... I used Pertronix in my stock dist and , yes they did want me to bypass the ballast. What I did was Solder a 12ga wire behind it to keep it looking stock. It.s all in my build thread right below this.
 
MOPARMITCH said:
Looks like I'm working opposite of you. Got my GTS 383 fired up last week and broke in. Then I pulled the windshield since it was smashed from years ago. Thought I would just clean up the channel and replace all clips. But.... I dont like the paint on the dash frame. SO... Gonna pull the column and dash. See... Opposite You LOL.
Far as the jumper... I used Pertronix in my stock dist and , yes they did want me to bypass the ballast. What I did was Solder a 12ga wire behind it to keep it looking stock. It.s all in my build thread right below this.
Click to expand...

That's funny! We'll meet in the middle LOL!
Thanks Mitch I'll do the solder thing too.
 
Almost there.
I need a drivers vent duct and new column mounting clips.

Will need to tracked them down and will wrap this up as soon as they arrive.
The box is there to prop up the dash so I have room to work.
 

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Looks Great !! It's amazing how Ma Mopar designed those dashes to come out so easy. And I mean B and E bodies too.
 
Test fitting the dash.

I made a console harness for the shifter light and a console tach using the correct color wires and tape.

Figured I'd run a hot wire for a hidden Bluetooth radio ( The original radio is also functional)
 

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Lookin good Al ! Pullin my dash today. Finished Steering Column.
 
Spent some time tonight setting up the carb linkage.
Installed the 20-7 Holley throttle stud adapter to relocate the stud for the throttle linkage.
The kickdown is adjusted following the master tech video :)

Does it look right?
 

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AlV said:
Thanks Mitch!

I'm very close to the end but I'm starting to stall a bit. Fixing up loose ends with the wiring. And I have to pull out the steering column to install the dash but tah should happen this weekend.

I still have to give it a systems check to make sure every thing works and finally fire.

But before I fire I think I need to install a jumper across the ballast resistor. The reason I say that is because I think that is one way to tie "ign 1" to "ign 2" for the MSD controller although I could be wrong.
Click to expand...


If you want to keep things looking stock take a spare ballast resistor and gut it. Run your jumper wire behind the resistor. That way you have a full 12 volts for the MSD to run while keeping the stock look.
 
AlV said:
Spent some time tonight setting up the carb linkage.
Installed the 20-7 Holley throttle stud adapter to relocate the stud for the throttle linkage.
The kickdown is adjusted following the master tech video :)

Does it look right?
Click to expand...

Al,

What gasket did you use under that Holley? I was considering putting a 1/2" phenolic spacer under my carb, but I haven't committed fully yet. Thanks.

Carl
 
1969VADart said:
Al,

What gasket did you use under that Holley? I was considering putting a 1/2" phenolic spacer under my carb, but I haven't committed fully yet. Thanks.

Carl
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OH Boy Carl, I should know this but it's been so long that I don't remember. I'll take a loook and get back to you.
My memory is starting to go.
 
Figuring to improve the performance of my headlights for driving at night while also reducing the amount of amps running through the bulkhead and light switch I Spent time installing headlight relays.

I picked up the components on line and then wired it to fit my application. Staying with my theme of keeping a stock appearance I made a bracket (using some flat steel I had laying around) to mount the relays on the radiator support and painted it black to hide it..

This setup uses the existing light plug on the harness to energize the hi/Lo relay meaning almost no amp draw through the bulkhead or light switch. The headlights draw directly from the battery via a fused primary feed which is tied to the feed for the MSD controller. I soldered all of the connections and terminals then used shrink tube to cover it all.

As I was running through a system check I ran into a problem with the wipers and radio. The wiper won't oscillate and the radio won't tune. frown emoticon
I'll keep plugging away.
 

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The interior is done except the kick panels.
I going to install speakers into them.
 

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Home Stretch there for you Al. Your work looks Awesome as usual .
 
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