Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?
- Thread starter johnparts
- Start date
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cudaboy 67
Well-Known Member
hello there, quite possible or fact it rather close to exhaust, couldnt risk it going again so converted to cable, will post a pic up as soon as i can de virus my pc
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
a heat shield around your slave cyl will do woners to keep it alive,,, all you need is a barrier,,, i used a juice can around my slave cyl,.,,looks hoky,but does the job,,
also if i ever make my own set up again,,,dodge dakotas use a hyd set up,,,if you get the pedal assembly and pedal mounting hardware out of a dakota,,there is no figureing to do,,, the master mounts to the mouning assembly and has a built in push rod,,all the gemotry is figured out if you use this set up,,,ive seen it used in street rods and works great,,,,
also if i ever make my own set up again,,,dodge dakotas use a hyd set up,,,if you get the pedal assembly and pedal mounting hardware out of a dakota,,there is no figureing to do,,, the master mounts to the mouning assembly and has a built in push rod,,all the gemotry is figured out if you use this set up,,,ive seen it used in street rods and works great,,,,
I'm thinking of this kit....
http://www.americanpowertrain.com/mopar/transmissions/clutch-hydraulic.html
...sure is PRICEY though!!! why the hell is it so damn expensive? what makes it worth so much? lol
http://www.americanpowertrain.com/mopar/transmissions/clutch-hydraulic.html
...sure is PRICEY though!!! why the hell is it so damn expensive? what makes it worth so much? lol
Blue87D100
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My 87 D100 has a hydro clutch from the factory with the 833od,might be good for adapting into an a body.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
thats not a bad price for what you get,,,,but remember if that hyd bearing goes,,,u will have to remove the trans,, ive been there,,, if you use a slave and standard T,O bearing and fork,,if the slave goes its on the out side,,,
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
does that set up use the slave and fork on the passenger side like the older dodger pickups ??
Blue87D100
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No,its on the drivers side.
so that kit is basically a done deal, bolt in and go...it seems theres some people having trouble properly aligning the clutch fork to slave cylinder and different master cylinder bores to get correct clutch engagement..and having to fab brackets and such...i know this method definitely saves money...but i do know how much of a pain in the butt it would be to pull the tranny in the event of a T.O. bearing failure....how often do they fail? and how? I guess there are pros and cons whichever way we decide to go...
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
you may never have a problem,, i didnt untill 10 years later,,,then the new one went less then 75 miles later,,,and in my car,,,u have to pull the motor to get the tranny out,,,so i went to a slave and fork/COLOR]
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Yeah $$$$$! I think im gonna do what Jamesdart did and use a Wilwood master cylinder with a factory Viper slave on my T56. It will only save me like $450! If I were you guys I would just buy the slave from AP or Mcleod and engineer my own master setup.
well, ended up gettin that kit...:shock:
looks like some nice quality products...now i just need to find a good diaphram clutch that'll support my 408 stroker, 530HP. any recommendations on a good clutch assembly?
looks like some nice quality products...now i just need to find a good diaphram clutch that'll support my 408 stroker, 530HP. any recommendations on a good clutch assembly?
wayfarer
Well-Known Member
Why not go back to Powertrain and ask them?
pishta
I know I'm right....
Not reading all the threads, but My friend had a Tilton setup with a hydro throw out (McCloud??) in his 65 A 340/4 sp. strange clutch pedal feel, too soft in our opinion (maybe a heavier clutch would have helped), and it pulsed with engine rotation or motor shake (even with the anti-pulse do-hicky in the cylinder), couldnt tell. Throw out bearing had a bleeder line but the damn thing came out the bottom (wrong setup?) and he could never get it just right. Also firewall flexed but there was a good pic of a guy running a AT brace from the shock tower to the slave cylinder, eliminating the flex. It worked, just not real crisp. There was a member that used a Toyota pusher slave and said it worked great.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
well, ended up gettin that kit...:shock:
looks like some nice quality products...now i just need to find a good diaphram clutch that'll support my 408 stroker, 530HP. any recommendations on a good clutch assembly?
mopardud318 nice looking parts there i really like the master cyl and mounting bracket,,whos kit is that ?
brokengarage
Well-Known Member
I understand from their website that with that bracket it should mount to the firewall where the original rod came through from the clutch pedal. I'd love to see pictures when mounted and how the rod from the master cylinder mounts to the clutch pedal. Looks like it has a heim joint so I am assuming you have to drill a hole through the pedal somewhere.
that kit is from american powertrain...
Yes, the master cylinder bracket SHOULD mount to where the hole in the firewall is, where the original clutch rod goes through...it should...lol but i havent gotten there yet...looks like there is a pretty steep angle (about 45 degree) from the clutch rod mount on the pedal to where it goes through the firewall, so this swivel bracket SHOULD emulate the same factory angle...
It looks to me that i'll have to cut the clutch rod stud off the pedal, and drill a hole in the same spot for the new adjustable clutch rod....
hemitheus
19? Plymouth Scampenstein
Late 80's early 90's D150's had hydraulic. This way you can use real mopar parts. Here is a diagram
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Looks like that setup doesnt fit without hitting the inner fender. Just a heads up dude, there is another guy with one and they are supposedly working on a solution.
I have had my tilton hydro throw out bearing and wilwood master in my Duster got 5000 miles now--I had the McLeod throw out at first and that blew out 3 times and then Jamie passon had the tilton made for me and no problems what so ever, I could not get the push rod right at first and after trial and error got it right but it took a heim joint to do it-Steve
so whats the best fitting junk yard master and slave cylinder? im gonna buy these parts new at napa and connect them with a steel line. i have no problem making a bracket to mount the slave cyl and will also make a heat shield. i have power brakes in the dart and the bracket that the booster mounts on has the booster about 5 inches or so away from the firewall so i think a nice compact master will fit nicely beside it. i see people using so many part options. i just dont know what to get.
fstfish66
Well-Known Member
ive never seen one of these,,,the late 60s early 70s dodges had the fork on the passengers side never seen or heard of it on the drivers side,,,
73SwingerBuild
Well-Known Member
The below is grabbed from my restoration thread but I wanted to post it here for more responses.
I have recently installed a hydraulic clutch setup in my 73 swinger. I used an AFCO 3/4" master cylinder and a CNC 7/8" slave cylinder from Speedway motors. I followed most of the directions in this forum to mount it up as follows:
I used a hole drilled in the clutch pedal (the spot located where the clutch pedal arm and the linkage arm connect with four spot welds) and used a stud to connect to a heim joint connected to the threaded input shaft of the clutch master cylinder (3/4" unit with a 1.4oz reservoir). This feeds a hard line with a flex-bend in it to the slave cylinder (7/8" unit) connected to the clutch fork. I grabbed the clutch fork where there is a slot cast into it from the factory (allowing a small amount of adjustability). Based on my measurements, I currently have 0.5" of movement on the clutch fork where it mounts to the slave, which is based on about 0.7" of horizontal movement at the pedal (all the way to the floor). It appears I will need about another 0.7" of movement from the pedal swing in order to modulate the slave cylinder the total 1" allowed, which will require doubling the distance betwene the pivot point and the mounting point on the pedal.
I wanted to type this out to see if anybody else had run into this issue yet and how they might have resolved it. Any and all responses are welcome. Thanks.
-Mike
I have recently installed a hydraulic clutch setup in my 73 swinger. I used an AFCO 3/4" master cylinder and a CNC 7/8" slave cylinder from Speedway motors. I followed most of the directions in this forum to mount it up as follows:
I used a hole drilled in the clutch pedal (the spot located where the clutch pedal arm and the linkage arm connect with four spot welds) and used a stud to connect to a heim joint connected to the threaded input shaft of the clutch master cylinder (3/4" unit with a 1.4oz reservoir). This feeds a hard line with a flex-bend in it to the slave cylinder (7/8" unit) connected to the clutch fork. I grabbed the clutch fork where there is a slot cast into it from the factory (allowing a small amount of adjustability). Based on my measurements, I currently have 0.5" of movement on the clutch fork where it mounts to the slave, which is based on about 0.7" of horizontal movement at the pedal (all the way to the floor). It appears I will need about another 0.7" of movement from the pedal swing in order to modulate the slave cylinder the total 1" allowed, which will require doubling the distance betwene the pivot point and the mounting point on the pedal.
I wanted to type this out to see if anybody else had run into this issue yet and how they might have resolved it. Any and all responses are welcome. Thanks.
-Mike
72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
Yep^^^ mine has been flawless once I got the pedal height where I need it. And I used a 7/8" Wilwood with the Viper slave.
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