Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?

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I have the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing conversion that I had put on my 833 but never used. It's brand new and I'm willing to sell. No slave cylinder to mount. I paid close to 600 bucks for it and am willing to let it go for 400 bucks. I was asking 900 for the whole new rebuilt tranny, aluminium bell housing etc. let me know if you are interested and I'll seperate.
 
Sorry for the delay folks. I've been running around like a mad man and only recently got to take some good pictures of the hydraulic clutch setup.

I have a Wilwood 7/8" bore universal master cylinder kit (Speedway Motors part #70174-875) and a CNC pull-style slave cylinder (Speedway Motors part #556NP102U, also 7/8" bore). To mount the slave cylinder, I used some angle iron that I bolted and welded together with appropriate internal bracing to withstand the pull force. I used all Grade 8 hardware and it has held up so far.
For the master cylinder, I drilled a 1-3/16" (I believe) hole in the firewall for the master cylinder to feed through until the mounting pad was flush on the firewall. I used Grade 8 hardware to mount the master and proceeded underneath the dash. I had the hole drilled square in the middle of the four plug welds on the cross bar of the clutch pedal and I ran a hardened bolt with spacers to mount a heim joint that threaded onto the input shaft of the master cylinder. I adjusted it until the internal spring on the master held the clutch pedal as high up as possible with only minimal preload pressure on the master (it needed a small amount to not feel spongy).

My problems came with the firewall. It started flexing after my first few drives (and I mean flexing ALOT! lol) so I reinforced it with some 1/4" steel plate. It should stop the flexing, but it hasn't had enough testing to tell for sure yet.

Let me know if I skipped any steps/pictures and I will definitely help wherever I can. And thank you all for your help.


-Mike
 

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gtmopar said:
I have the McLeod hydraulic throw out bearing conversion that I had put on my 833 but never used. It's brand new and I'm willing to sell. No slave cylinder to mount. I paid close to 600 bucks for it and am willing to let it go for 400 bucks. I was asking 900 for the whole new rebuilt tranny, aluminium bell housing etc. let me know if you are interested and I'll seperate.
Click to expand...

Still have it?
 
Im curious, gtmopar what is it that your selling? Just the mcleod To bearing or a whole kit? Hydraulic To bearing only, or master cyl. , lines, and hyd. bearing etc.? Im going to be doing a hydraulic conversion, so im trying to get all the info i can, sorry if it seems like im trying to intervene, on your sale between someone else. Is there a specific master bore size that you have to use with hydraulic throw out bearings too? As in the same way you have to match the bore of the master to the slave?
 
7duce swinger said:
Im curious, gtmopar what is it that your selling? Just the mcleod To bearing or a whole kit? Hydraulic To bearing only, or master cyl. , lines, and hyd. bearing etc.? Im going to be doing a hydraulic conversion, so im trying to get all the info i can, sorry if it seems like im trying to intervene, on your sale between someone else. Is there a specific master bore size that you have to use with hydraulic throw out bearings too? As in the same way you have to match the bore of the master to the slave?
Click to expand...

You definitely have to size the master cylinder to be compatible with the hydraulic throwout bearing, or else you might over-pressurize it or not supply enough pressure to release the clutch disc completely.

However, this depends on the amount of stroke that you have on the input shaft of the master cylinder (which is affected by where you attach the master cylinder input shaft on the clutch pedal).

If you PM me your e-mail, I can send you the calculator that I put together for determining the amount of bore/stroke you need from a master to satisfy the requirements of a slave cylinder. It could be modified to be used for a hydraulic throwout bearing fairly easily.

-Mike
 
Alright thanks. When you buy a hydraulic throwout bearing, does it come as a kit, or can you buy it as a seperate piece? What i mean is if i already have the masters(ive got a couple factory and a wilwood and some other brand new ones for other makes), can i buy a hydraulic TO bearing to match the master and be set, or is it a lil more complicated? Whats every part thats needed, for the swap. Can someone shoot me a pm, or something . I need a list. I want to do everything right, and not have to worry about parts i dont have when im doing it. Thanks !!
 
7duce swinger said:
Alright thanks. When you buy a hydraulic throwout bearing, does it come as a kit, or can you buy it as a seperate piece? What i mean is if i already have the masters(ive got a couple factory and a wilwood and some other brand new ones for other makes), can i buy a hydraulic TO bearing to match the master and be set, or is it a lil more complicated? Whats every part thats needed, for the swap. Can someone shoot me a pm, or something . I need a list. I want to do everything right, and not have to worry about parts i dont have when im doing it. Thanks !!
Click to expand...

How set are you on the hydraulic T/O bearing? The pull-style slave system can be bought for about 1/4 to 1/5 of the price of the hydraulic T/O Bearing and you won't have to pull your transmission to replace it if it fails or a leak develops.

Take it from a guy that's been there. Pulling tranny's after the driveline is installed is no fun.

Just my $0.02

-Mike
 
Well i actually have a couple of pull type slaves and some push type slaves. What im planning on doing is to try most of them. I have tons of slaves and masters from production vehicles. And a wilwood master, i plan on buying a wilwood slave as well, as theyre only like 70 bucks in summit mags.. The only reason i was considering, a hydraulic TO bearing was the elimination of the fork, which is why i ask what all is needed as in every little piece of the swap, because i dont know what of every part thats needed. But then comes up the part of "if it leaks" which kinda scares me, along with the price. Thanks for all the help 73swinger and for the calculator too i appreciate it very much. Thanks
 
well glad the 7/8 bore master worked for you,,, i see you have drilled the fork closer to the bell housing to attach the slave cylinder,,im still using the factory location for my slave cyl,,i have a a 7/8 bore master now,,,hope to get it installed this week,,,
 
fstfish66 said:
well glad the 7/8 bore master worked for you,,, i see you have drilled the fork closer to the bell housing to attach the slave cylinder,,im still using the factory location for my slave cyl,,i have a a 7/8 bore master now,,,hope to get it installed this week,,,
Click to expand...

There was actually a slot and a small hole already cast in the fork (did not look drilled at all). I'm not sure why or even what car it came out of, but I used the slot and it works perfect.

I have about 70 miles (city miles) on the car and everything seems to be working great. I'll keep this thread updated with any changes I make though. Hopefully other members will see my mistakes and be able to do it right the first time lol.
 
it seems that youv got the bugs worked out. yes the firewall definitely needs to be reinforced with a steel plate so it wonf flex and tear. what is the stroke on your slave cyl? i was looking at a wilwood unit from summit and im wondering if it will have enough travel if i hook it through the eye at the end of the clutch fork. or will that require too much pedal movement?
 
73SwingerBuild said:
....Take it from a guy that's been there. Pulling tranny's after the driveline is installed is no fun.

Just my $0.02

-Mike
Click to expand...

On what vehicle???

With my Demon it's a 30 min or less job once it is up on jackstands. No power tools involved.

6 bolts/nuts on header collectors
4 bolts on the u-joint straps
3 bolts on the shifter mount
3 nuts on the shift levers
4 bolts on the trans crossmember
unplug the reverse sender switch
4 bolts connect the trans to bellhousing

Slide it out. Easy peasy.



Wylde1.
 
I had issues with my firewall flexing like crazy with the mechanical linkage and I mean FLEXING. What I did was weld a piece of round tube with a couple pieces of angle iron under the dash where you couldn't see it and it fixed the problem nicely. It's kind of a ***** to do without burning your car to the ground so take your time if you decide to tackle it. Wish I didn't have to get rid of my 4 speed setup but luckily a FABO member has it and is putting it in his truck. Nice sano install good luck
 
this would be neat for the hydraulic throwout bearing guys....
 

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I know that this thread keeps getting resurrected from time to time. I'm doing so again because I'm thinking about giving my unhappy hydraulic clutch pedal kit another go. I bought it from Chuck's, but it's the same kit that Brewer's sells.

The only issue I have at the moment is that I'm unable to mount the master cylinder in place (as shown in this thread to be 2" beneath the clutch pedal pivot) because I have a large Hydroboost power brake setup. Obviously, the clutch master master cannot exist in the same space as the booster.

The problem with mounting the master cylinder in the stock location is that the pedal will only move 1" total when it needs much more. Something like 4-5". I left all of this behind me until az426hemi posted the pic of the cool-looking mechanical linkage adapter for the unit sold at mustangdepot.com. That mechanical linkage is a very clever way to solve the problem of having to mount the master cylinder so high up the firewall.

It seems to me that something very similar, or even the very same unit, could be used to drop the master cylinder into the stock location on my '65 Barracuda. But I have no fabrication capability at all. Does anything have ideas of the feasibility of a unit like this? I'm not using a hydraulic throwout bearing.

Thanks,
Marcus
 
I don't see any reason you couldn't use that same setup with a slave cylinder? A hydraulic throw out bearing operates on the same principal as a slave cylinder, its just a different. That's the route I would go. I got so tired of dealing with clutch issues on my car, aside from medically being forced to switch over to an automatic, I honestly don't miss it. If your car has enough balls to fry the tires when you romp on it, then who the hell needs a clutch to drop.
 
that set up will work with a hyd slave cylinder,, its just better position to mount it in,,and the linkage shown will give you greater control of the clutch adjustment as well as reinforce the frie wall its a win win,,,
 
Yes, I'll certainly try one. I'm just confused at to which of the nine kits to buy. The website doesn't really explain the difference between Type I, Type II, Type III. I wrote them up and asked but they weren't super helpful. What confuses me is the ratio of fluid volume. The CNC slave cylinders most of are using seem to push a different amount of fluid from the masters in these kits, and if I remember correctly you need to keep a 1:1 ratio.

Anyway, I'm willing to take the plunge and buy one of these kits if I can figure out which one to buy.

-marcus
 
R3dplanet said:
Yes, I'll certainly try one. I'm just confused at to which of the nine kits to buy. The website doesn't really explain the difference between Type I, Type II, Type III. I wrote them up and asked but they weren't super helpful. What confuses me is the ratio of fluid volume. The CNC slave cylinders most of are using seem to push a different amount of fluid from the masters in these kits, and if I remember correctly you need to keep a 1:1 ratio.

Anyway, I'm willing to take the plunge and buy one of these kits if I can figure out which one to buy.

-marcus
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i dont know what kits marked 1 2 3 your looking at,,,im sure your running a factory type clutch,,a center force dual friction is a great clutch for a street car and is affordable and works great with hyd,s,,,

a lot of the kits i see have a 7/8 bore slave cyl,,,and a 3/4 bore master,, i had that set up,,it was almost perfect,, otheres with the same set up have switched to a 7/8 bore master,,,and have better results,,a lot of it is all in the pedal and the mouning position of every thing,,if the bushins in your clutch pedal are shot,, you wont get the push on the master you need,,if your pivot point on the clutch pedal master cyl mounting position you again wont get enough push to make thigs work competely,,,you can do better by buying the parts seperately,and make your own slave cyl braket,,,,go to www.speedwaymotors search there slave cylinders and read the description,,, u may see what im talking about,, it states with a stock type clutch,,,meening not a dual disc,,,dual disc not the same as dual friction,,,stock type clutch meens one disc,, they say to use a 7/8 bore master cyl,,,,
 
mopardude318 thanks the pedal set up i have for my duster had the mslord being but seals let go n less that year goimg to try wild wood set up with adjust peadl height cylinder from ram
 
I've got the McLeod kit still in its box.
Instructions are - well lame with no real useful information for our application.
It will stay in the box - Hooker Pro Comp Headers are my solution. :burnout:
 
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