Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
That is quite impressive!!
Back to the drawing board... stock low dollar 360
- Thread starter 318willrun
- Start date
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for the combo, yes. But I didn't want to give up 60 ft time to gain mph. That was not in the plan. I will get it sorted out.
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I have no doubt about that. You will be in the 12s in no time.
yeah, I don't know why I chose to make life hard on myself. I could just throw some headers, converter, and gears at it and be 12's...…. but that wouldn't be challenging to me. I guess I really enjoy challenges.... LOL
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
We have alot in common I like to do the best I can with what I have (or can afford) Instead of just throwing money at a problem. Anyone can spend a ton of money and have a professional engine builder tune your car and run 12s (or whatever the goal is) but to truly diy and achieve your goals are way more rewarding
And how a lot of us learned in the olden days before the.... INTERNET....
GASP!!!!
( grammar )
GASP!!!!
( grammar )
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abdywgn
dismantler
what pulleys are you using? could get a spare alternator with the 5" pulley and the small crank one for track use only.
I'm using the factory steel single groove pulleys. I could go to the small crank pulley for sure, and I may. As far as the 5" alternator pulley with the small crank, I really don't want to have a "track" set up as I race the car as I drive it the hour to get to the track.
dusted
Well-Known Member
What fan are you running? A 4 blade fixed or a fan clutch type?
He went from a fixed fan to a clutch fan and that is what dropped him into the 13s.
dusted
Well-Known Member
Sorry I just have missed that in my reading
Dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Wonder what an electric fan will do?
Bought a 25 dollar QF adjustable VS canister a while back for another carb. I may remove it from that carb, and put it on my 770 Street Avenger. Try to get it to open a little quicker. I also may go up 2 jet sizes on the secondary. I want to get back my consistent 1.9 60 ft times, but I also want to keep the mph.
I guess my goal would be to "get the VS 60 ft and get the DP pull after the 60 ft" maybe that would get me a 13.75 ??
I guess my goal would be to "get the VS 60 ft and get the DP pull after the 60 ft" maybe that would get me a 13.75 ??
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What I love about these articles is it is basic hotrodding, which decades ago steamed from taking cheap and free parts and going faster and making your car better. This theory is not used and valued by some, they either have the $ to go buy what they want or pay someone to do the work and hey that's fine with me. I have ovr the decades occasionally bought a done or partially "done" car because I has tired and the work! But the sense of accomplishment was not rally there. AS always that car got sold off and I was on to another ADVENTURE!!! ha
j par
Well-hung Member
Bought a 25 dollar QF adjustable VS canister a while back for another carb. I may remove it from that carb, and put it on my 770 Street Avenger. Try to get it to open a little quicker. I also may go up 2 jet sizes on the secondary. I want to get back my consistent 1.9 60 ft times, but I also want to keep the mph.
I guess my goal would be to "get the VS 60 ft and get the DP pull after the 60 ft" maybe that would get me a 13.75 ??
j par
Well-hung Member
I thought it was funny slapping you with the big disagree button LOL
Remember I'm just messing with you but I always thought hot rodding was headers and gears and a couple other things?
I mean at what point is it going to put a hood scoop in a rear wing to make it go faster? BahBaHah...
j par
Well-hung Member
I hope I'm not making it sound like I think you should throw big money at it or anything like that. But a little bit is usually needed for Hot Rodding.
J Par simmer down big un!! We are getting off the topic some, BUT as usual I will try to get the last word! ha...I have never been a at the track drag racer, nor street racer, maybe a back road. Part of my point is how so many drag racers spend SOooo much $$$$ and that is OK with me. Just saying this thread here is about all the inexpensive small things that can be done to a CHEAP engine to go faster and make more smiles. I equate $ and time spent as to what I have in the end and IF I get pleasure out of it.
Sure it was way easier back in the 70's, 80's to go to the local boneyard and get a good running engine complete for cheap. CHEAP. EASY! Try finding a yard with anything older than 2000!!
BUT you are right, put in some decent gears and be pretty quick (less you got stock friggin slant!)
j par
Well-hung Member
Well it's nice that you pointed out what this thread means to you. But hot riding A1A has always been a cheap set of headers? But is this hot riding? Or is this tuning like nobody's business? I'm totally calm. I'm just giving 318 will win a a bunch of crap anyway like he does to me all the time. He knows I'll help him in any way I can.
Oops I don't know how I double quoted you sorry.
LOL..... never said I wouldn't have to spend money. In fact, I may end up spending a few more than planned. But this will NOT turn into a 2000 dollar motor - and that's a fact!
- This thread/build is different than my low dollar-budget build 318 thread. That was done to help newbies. Give them some ideas. I didn't do it for me. I wanted to show them that 500 bucks and a 318 2bbl can play too I limited myself to a budget.
- However, this thread is for me. This is what I want to do. I have no budget limitations, although I want to spend the least amount possible (like everyone else … LOL ) Goal one has been met, 13.9's. Now, I want 12.9's by next year at this time. I'll post what works, and what didn't work.
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alright, ship it to me and i'll put it on !
j par
Well-hung Member
Well at least I got you thinking in the right direction. Putting one on that is, now me shipping it to you might surpass your one year goal.alright, ship it to me and i'll put it on !
Maybe, list the mod., the results in sec., and the cost to you for that mod.
I look at everything in terms of work for me, and the cost in $$$ for anything I do. For example, I can tell you within a few $ how much it will cost me to do the bodywork on any car I have here. I can tell you what I have invested in it also. Those cars have always fond a new home, some I have owned for 5-6 years, some 5 minutes . I have hardly ever made a dime worth of profit from any restoration, break even usually at best,.. BUT I have never sold any car at a loss. Because I buy the project and do my own work,.. you make or lose on anything when you buy, not when you sell.
I measure everything by the "fun factor" and $ spent.
I look at everything in terms of work for me, and the cost in $$$ for anything I do. For example, I can tell you within a few $ how much it will cost me to do the bodywork on any car I have here. I can tell you what I have invested in it also. Those cars have always fond a new home, some I have owned for 5-6 years, some 5 minutes . I have hardly ever made a dime worth of profit from any restoration, break even usually at best,.. BUT I have never sold any car at a loss. Because I buy the project and do my own work,.. you make or lose on anything when you buy, not when you sell.
I measure everything by the "fun factor" and $ spent.
joec
Well-Known Member
If you put the 770 back on changing the springs will usually slow you down.The jetting /squirters is very close ootb.Remember the gear ratio. Try different brands of spark plugs not all are a direct cross sometimes it makes a difference.Have you checked the plugs for jetting /timing?I think the vs carb will always work better in your situation.How about cam timing That cam comes 5 deg. advanced what about straight up?Alot of what has to be done has to work around your gearing and traction.
I think some of that cam timing thing is a bit “Overboard” for the route and task at hand not that it doesn’t have its merits.
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