Ball joint removal

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DartVadar

DartVadar

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So I'm trying to replace the upper, lower ball joints and the inner and outer tie rod ends on my 73 dart. It has factory front disc brakes if that matters.

I understand that the upper ball joint is a screw out type, but I'm looking for the right socket for that. I can rent one locally but they don't have it at the moment, but I will check again today.

The issue is I can't seem to get any of the ball joints out. I was trying to use one of those forks, but I'm not getting anywhere. I'm not re-using any of them so it doesn't matter if I damage the boot either.

Any tips on getting them all out? or a part number for the socket for the upper ball joint would be appreciated as well!
 
If you are talking about getting the ball joint studs out of the spindles, loosen the upper BJ castle nut a few turns whiel the lower BJ is still connnected and get a machinist's hammer and whack the snot out of the side of the spindle casting rigth where the upper ball joint's tapered stud is pulled up tight; your whacks should be directed so as to be perpendicular to the axis of the BJ stud. The tapered stud will release nicely after 1 or a few good whacks; don't be the least bit shy to whale on it. Don't miss....LOL !! It'll dent the spindle casting a wee bit, but that is not an issue.

Same goes for the tie rod end studs ....

And here is a quick video....Hope I am not violating any copyright stuff here.....

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_JzIdlolfg"]Quick Tip - Separating Ball Joints and Tie Rod Ends - YouTube[/ame]
 
mancini racing sells the socket. i have always used a 4x4 socket, it has 4 tabs in it that catch the upper balljoint always worked well for me & they are cheep at any auto store. the lower balljoint will unbolt from the control arm and beat the hell out of it with a fork good luck
 
The torsion bars and weight of the parts can be your helpers. Procedures vary though.
Good luck
 
DartVadar said:
So I'm trying to replace the upper, lower ball joints and the inner and outer tie rod ends on my 73 dart. It has factory front disc brakes if that matters.

I understand that the upper ball joint is a screw out type, but I'm looking for the right socket for that. I can rent one locally but they don't have it at the moment, but I will check again today.

The issue is I can't seem to get any of the ball joints out. I was trying to use one of those forks, but I'm not getting anywhere. I'm not re-using any of them so it doesn't matter if I damage the boot either.

Any tips on getting them all out? or a part number for the socket for the upper ball joint would be appreciated as well!
Click to expand...

Make sure you have the correct pickle fork for each part. They need to be sized to where they are wide enough to put the pressure in the correct place but not too wide to where they can't do the job. Be sure you are putting the pickle fork in the right way too. Drive it in tight and the wack as said above.
 
For the uppers, you will need the proper socket, and a long cheater pipe to fit over the wrench that you use for the socket (the socket is usually 3/4" drive), you either need a 3/4" ratchet or a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer to fit it on a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar. You may also need about 3 feet of pipe that will fit over the handle of your wrench to give you the extra torque to get it loose. (As a maintenence supervisor that I once knew would say, "You need more *** behind it...").

They get torqued to 125 foot lbs new, now add all the years of rain, dirt, salt, etc, they are pretty tough to break loose.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Make sure you have the correct pickle fork for each part. They need to be sized to where they are wide enough to put the pressure in the correct place but not too wide to where they can't do the job. Be sure you are putting the pickle fork in the right way too. Drive it in tight and the wack as said above.
Click to expand...


Yes. without the right fork, you could be in quite a pickle.... LOL!
 
Just as an added note: I don't use pickle forks hardly ever; a few hard whacks with the machinist's hammer is all I typically use. Don't be shy; I remember the first time in changing a bearing race, the shop super was laughing at me, and then kindly showed me how to "put more *** behind it" as eloquently stated above. It was a good lesson....
 
nm9stheham said:
Just as an added note: I don't use pickle forks hardly ever; a few hard whacks with the machinist's hammer is all I typically use. Don't be shy; I remember the first time in changing a bearing race, the shop super was laughing at me, and then kindly showed me how to "put more *** behind it" as eloquently stated above. It was a good lesson....
Click to expand...

Same here, I've always used a BFH. If you were closer I'd lend you my socket.
 
Well I got the tie rods all out, I'll find something tomorrow to get the upper ball joint screwed out. I'm still having issues with the lower ball joint, I put a whole bunch of wd40 on it and I'll try again tomorrow once its had time to soak.

And yea I have a pickle fork but because I'm not re-using everything so I think Ill break out the bigger hammer! Should do the trick.

Now when I replace everything do I just use the castle nut to bring them into place? and are they supposed to be torqued?
 
The BFH is more manly...I expect to see Vladimir Putin on TV soon breaking BJ's loose with a hammer to add to his image...LOL

To tighten, I jam the taper in place and hold it by hand and run the castle nut down. The torque spec on the castle nut will pull the taper into place as tight as it is supposed to be. If no spec, looks for a spec on similar car and size. (I guess I have learned somewhere how much to put on; most BJ studs can take 90-100 ft-lbs easy; less on tie rod ends.) But the service manual should have all the torques specs on everything.

BTW what size breaker bar are you using for the upper BJ? 1/2"? 3/4"?
 
I have a manual so I will look up the proper torque numbers.

And I got the socket, and its a 3/4" drive, so my grandpa has this massive breaker bar with a 3/4 drive, I unscrewed the upper ball joints with ease!

So far I have the inner/outer tie rods out and one of the upper ball joints. I got the other upper unscrewed but it still wont pop out! and the bottoms are pretty damn stuck as well. Kinda stuck at this point... think some kind of puller would help?
 
They are all out! Had to heat them up with a torch but they are out. I'm just cleaning everything up now and I'll put everything back together.
 
So Everything is installed and torqued down to the correct specs. But I noticed that with the castle nut on the upper ball joint came with a thick washer. If I used the washer I couldn't get the cotter pin through the hole because the washer pushed the nut out too far. I took the washer out and it fit. There wasn't a washer there originally when I took them off.

Is it okay to not have the washers? or are they important?

And the proper torque will pull everything into place I assume?
 
You'll be fine without the washer. I have rarely see one used, and have discarded ones on another car that is driven long distance on rough roads where the same issue cropped up, with no problems.

Yes, the torque will seat everything in the tapered joints. Good deal on the new suspension!

BTW, you only torque the LCA shaft bolts after the car is on the ground and the t-bars are adjusted to final ride height. That locks the LCA bushings in the middle of their flex range.
 
nm9stheham said:
You'll be fine without the washer. I have rarely see one used, and have discarded ones on another car that is driven long distance on rough roads where the same issue cropped up, with no problems.

Yes, the torque will seat everything in the tapered joints. Good deal on the new suspension!

BTW, you only torque the LCA shaft bolts after the car is on the ground and the t-bars are adjusted to final ride height. That locks the LCA bushings in the middle of their flex range.
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Okay good glad to know everything is good! Happy to be done!

And are you talking about the bolts that attach the spindle to the lower ball joint and upper ball joint? Because I never actually took out the torsion bars or anything out of the LCA. I left everything in place, and when I put it back together I bolted the spindle to the lower ball joint, and got a floor jack under the LCA and jacked it up until I could get a few threads into the upper ball joint. I then grabbed a clamp and pulled it together, tightened the castle nut so there was no space and then torqued it.

Probably not what most people would do but I made it work! LOL
 
DartVadar said:
Okay good glad to know everything is good! Happy to be done!

And are you talking about the bolts that attach the spindle to the lower ball joint and upper ball joint? Because I never actually took out the torsion bars or anything out of the LCA. I left everything in place, and when I put it back together I bolted the spindle to the lower ball joint, and got a floor jack under the LCA and jacked it up until I could get a few threads into the upper ball joint. I then grabbed a clamp and pulled it together, tightened the castle nut so there was no space and then torqued it.

Probably not what most people would do but I made it work! LOL
Click to expand...

If you only did the ball joints and the tie rod ends the other post will not apply in your situation.
 
DartVadar said:
Okay good glad to know everything is good! Happy to be done!

And are you talking about the bolts that attach the spindle to the lower ball joint and upper ball joint? Because I never actually took out the torsion bars or anything out of the LCA. I left everything in place, and when I put it back together I bolted the spindle to the lower ball joint, and got a floor jack under the LCA and jacked it up until I could get a few threads into the upper ball joint. I then grabbed a clamp and pulled it together, tightened the castle nut so there was no space and then torqued it.

Probably not what most people would do but I made it work! LOL
Click to expand...
Gotcha; I was not sure what you had taken apart, and yes, you can commonly do what you did w/o taking the LCA's out. Just wanted you to know when to tighten the spindles in case you had replaced LCA bushings as part of this work.
 
nm9stheham said:
Just as an added note: I don't use pickle forks hardly ever; a few hard whacks with the machinist's hammer is all I typically use. Don't be shy; I remember the first time in changing a bearing race, the shop super was laughing at me, and then kindly showed me how to "put more *** behind it" as eloquently stated above. It was a good lesson....
Click to expand...

^^^ xx2

My mentor, same thing,, seldom use a fork.. luv my BFH.. !!
 
inertia said:
^^^ xx2

My mentor, same thing,, seldom use a fork.. luv my BFH.. !!
Click to expand...

I don't like hammer marks on my spindles on my antique cars so that is why I use the pickle forks. On the new cars I used to use a hammer until I bought a set of pickle forks to go with my air chisel. With this it only takes me a few seconds to pop one loose. It also came with a handle that you can use with a hammer. One of the best 50 dollar bills I ever spent and made in the USA too.
 

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The Mopar socket comes in 3 sizes. pre-73 A-body, Imperial and pickup, and everything else. You want this one.

http://store.snapon.com/Ball-Joint-Sockets-Socket-Ball-Joint-medium-size-Chryslers--P636001.aspx

It's a bit pricey new. I got mine on ebay for about 1/3 new.

I use a press when I can to separate ball joint from the spindle. It takes more time but precludes damage to the car and to me as the result of an errant blow. Sometimes, however, I have to get out the BFH and swing away.
 
Yeah I didn't replace the bushings otherwise I would have had to torque those bolts with the car on the ground.

And yea those pickle forks and an air hammer would have made the job so much easier! well I guess i'll know for next time.

I just went and rented the socket, pretty good deal, and If I ever need it again I'll just go back and rent it. I got new wheel bearings and seals too, the car should be on the ground today!
 
Cool deal; glad it worked out well. I am getting ready to go through the '62 in the same way for everything; all original 52 y.o. parts in there. The steering was wacky 'til I sprayed WD40 under all of the boots; the grease was so old it was hanging up the steering linkage (and the gearbox, and the left front wheel bearing, and.....)

Where did you rent the socket?

Hmmmm that air pickle fork kit looks very tempting......
 
I need to ask. why would you go through all the trouble/work and not replace the Lca bushings and strut bushings.
 
nm9stheham said:
Cool deal; glad it worked out well. I am getting ready to go through the '62 in the same way for everything; all original 52 y.o. parts in there. The steering was wacky 'til I sprayed WD40 under all of the boots; the grease was so old it was hanging up the steering linkage (and the gearbox, and the left front wheel bearing, and.....)

Where did you rent the socket?

Hmmmm that air pickle fork kit looks very tempting......
Click to expand...

Yea probably needs replacing then!

And I got it at a partsource, I don't know if you have them near you but it was a pretty great deal, 59 dollar deposit and got it all back when I returned it. Made the job really easy!
 
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