Butters "Winter Upgrades". . Starting a Little Early

[Dantra]

My car is quickly going from "spends most of its time under a cover" to daily driver thanks to my new job, so this mod has moved its way up my priority list for next year. So far it's just been new tires and a set of tubular upper control arms to get better caster for highway driving (hopefully getting installed this weekend), along with a fair amount of messing with my tunes and interior display stuff. Frame connectors are probably the next thing I'll try to tackle before then, hopefully before the weather turns on me too much.

I decided to go with 1.5 x 3 x .120 on frame connectors with the box style at the back. I was going to go round tube like HemiDenny did, but after looking at it, I really don't have anything at the rear to connect like he did. Plus.. I just happen to have some 1.5x3 laying around . I've got some 2x3 but it's 1/4" wall and heavy af. The 1.5 will be fine...

 

[Map63Vette]

I decided to go with 1.5 x 3 x .120 on frame connectors with the box style at the back. I was going to go round tube like HemiDenny did, but after looking at it, I really don't have anything at the rear to connect like he did. Plus.. I just happen to have some 1.5x3 laying around . I've got some 2x3 but it's 1/4" wall and heavy af. The 1.5 will be fine...

That's what I was planning as well. Simple enough to buy the material and make it work. I'm by no means a welder, but I've managed to stick some metal to other metal that has held up well enough, so figured I'd give it a shot. The welding is pretty limited in the long run, mostly just some plugs and a couple of smaller beads, so I think I can make it work. Only noticed how bad I needed them when I had my car up in the air to get the tires changed. Had it on a set of the MaxxJacks little hydraulic scissor things (should have bought those a long time ago) and noticed that the passenger front window actually lined up with the back one and the doors opened and shut really nicely for a change, so that started the search.

 

[Dantra]

That's what I was planning as well. Simple enough to buy the material and make it work. I'm by no means a welder, but I've managed to stick some metal to other metal that has held up well enough, so figured I'd give it a shot. The welding is pretty limited in the long run, mostly just some plugs and a couple of smaller beads, so I think I can make it work. Only noticed how bad I needed them when I had my car up in the air to get the tires changed. Had it on a set of the MaxxJacks little hydraulic scissor things (should have bought those a long time ago) and noticed that the passenger front window actually lined up with the back one and the doors opened and shut really nicely for a change, so that started the search.

One thing that I really haven't delved into, is should it be on jackstands all 4 on a surface or what.. I've seen people say that it should be level. But what's actually "level" on these cars lol

 

[bjkadron]

One thing that I really haven't delved into, is should it be on jackstands all 4 on a surface or what.. I've seen people say that it should be level. But what's actually "level" on these cars lol

Around 1/4" or less is ideal. On 4 tall jackstands is how I plan to do it. level should be the F/R cross beams that you are actually welding to.

 

[Map63Vette]

Yeah, I'm not sure I understood the whole "leave it on all 4 tires" mentality. My car is sitting on all 4 tires and you have to use your shoulder to open the passenger door, that's the problem. It's needs to flex back to "straight" or whatever you want to define before you try to reinforce it. I get that you don't want to overdo it and go too far the other way, but if the car is sagging already it would make sense that you need to give it some kind of support first to get it back closer to "stock". I figured I'd probably do 4 jackstands under the frame parts just forward and rearward of where the connectors were going. I'd use my scissor lifts, but they span the distance front to rear, so they kind of get in the way and go right where the connectors would live. I guess maybe I could do that and actually sandwich the connectors between the lift and the car to tack them in, then drop it and weld them more solid. Biggest thing is just making sure the doors/windows, panel gaps, etc. line up.

 

[DionR]

Yeah, I'm not sure I understood the whole "leave it on all 4 tires" mentality. My car is sitting on all 4 tires and you have to use your shoulder to open the passenger door, that's the problem. It's needs to flex back to "straight" or whatever you want to define before you try to reinforce it. I get that you don't want to overdo it and go too far the other way, but if the car is sagging already it would make sense that you need to give it some kind of support first to get it back closer to "stock". I figured I'd probably do 4 jackstands under the frame parts just forward and rearward of where the connectors were going. I'd use my scissor lifts, but they span the distance front to rear, so they kind of get in the way and go right where the connectors would live. I guess maybe I could do that and actually sandwich the connectors between the lift and the car to tack them in, then drop it and weld them more solid. Biggest thing is just making sure the doors/windows, panel gaps, etc. line up.

Could your door issue be more about worn out hinges and less about body sagging?

 

[Dantra]

Had a little time to mess with the classic air kit, earlier. I put the AC controls together, bench tested and calibrated the system. There's a little bit of Fuckery with setting up the controls.. To the point that I broke out the wild turkey. I ended up modifying to black plate that control the mode.. Finally got it dialed in tho. The heat/cool cable was nowhere close to where it needed to be, for full operation side to side. Had to shorten that cable a bit.. I think I've seen others have to do the same.

Also kinda mocked up the evap unit to get some kind of pattern started for a firewall adapter. The unit it pretty light, so I got it positioned kinda where I wanted it with a small juckstand and was able to just barely get a clamp at the firewall bracket. Ran some tape, marked all holes, marked centers and a reference line to pull measurements to the fittings. Then I just peeled it and stuck it to some 16ga and started drilling. I now have a preliminary pattern.. I can mount up and note any changes that need made. I'll bolt up up tomorrow and have a look...

BTW.. This thing moves wayyy more air than my stock unit ever dreamed

 

[Map63Vette]

Could your door issue be more about worn out hinges and less about body sagging?

I don't think so. I've tried adjusting them and thought I had the window all lined up finally, but it's right back where it was before. I think I actually even rebuilt them a while back. I have some noticeable cracks going on at my rockers at the back edge of the doors as well, so guessing it's a bit weak. Watched the door gap when I lowered it off the lifts as well and could see a bit of flex.

 

[Dantra]

Tibjered a bit today. Just finding spots for everyone.. Had to shift some things around because the dash controls take up space that was previously used. Found a spot for the trans controller and CAA Controller.

Finished up the firewall adapter as well.Made it large enough to cover the heater lines holes too.

I think that's it for this mock up.. Time to move on to something else and come back to all that when finalizing the dash wiring, once the new motor is in.

Probably knock out the frame conn tomorrow...

 

[DARTGAME]

If you plan to drive in weather at all having that module there at the fresh air vent hole could see water intrusion. I have that same block off style there and it drips in light dew or when I wash it.

 

[Dantra]

If you plan to drive in weather at all having that module there at the fresh air vent hole could see water intrusion. I have that same block off style there and it drips in light dew or when I wash it.

I've never noticed any moisture there but the thought did occur. I used rivnuts and plan to add some sealer around them. The unit itself and connector are waterproof...

But now that you've reaffirmed my worry.. I'll probably move it lol

 

[DARTGAME]

I've never noticed any moisture there but the thought did occur. I used rivnuts and plan to add some sealer around them. The unit itself and connector are waterproof...

But now that you've reaffirmed my worry.. I'll probably move it lol

Hahaha, that wasn’t my intent but if it’s a sealed unit you should be fine.

 

[Dantra]

Spent some un-mocking the AC, ecu mount, fuse panel etc.. Got things shelved and moved on to subframe connectors...relocated the park brake cable while I was there.

 

[racerjoe]

Spent some un-mocking the AC, ecu mount, fuse panel etc.. Got things shelved and moved on to subframe connectors...relocated the park brake cable while I was there.

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That ain't going nowhere... Best thing about frame connectors- find the balance point for the jack and you can get both tires off the ground at the same time! BTW, that stroker motor might want some bigger exhaust.