Cuda SRT8 392 Gen.III Hemi

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Cuda SRT8 said:
So, in place of the rear seat, there will be an electrical cabinet to house the battery; the ECM; the ISIS electrical system; a built in trickle charger and maybe a couple of other items if I have room. The whole rear cargo area will be carpeted. As mentioned earlier, the spare tire will mount under the fastback window like the early Shelby GT350s. Then for those familiar with fastback Cudas, the hinged trunk separater panel...
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Hey that's a great idea!
 
Great build, nice fab skills, I can't wait to see more....
 
Cuda SRT8 said:
I would have liked to go with a stock, 7qt. rear sump truck pan, but it would have sat too low, the lowest point under the car. I'd heard and seen so much "bad" about the conversion oil pans available (and got nothing but "attitude" from the guy at Milodon), so I made a mock-up pan in ABS plastic and had Moroso make a custom pan for me. They do awesome work. Like a piece of artwork actually. Reasonably priced too. I ended up with an 8qt. pan and it sits about 1" higher than the headers and AlterK crossmember.
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Impressive mate, any chance Moroso can make another one? i need a new pan as like you the factory items sits way to low. Do you have a contact at Moroso i could call?
 
Thanks again for the compliments you guys. It's nice to have my work appreciated, as between my wife and my neighbors, they don't care about the process or the details, they just want to see it DONE! LOL

HemiDenny,
I'm the guy inside the Gullwing with the straw hat on, being grilled by the judges. If you don't have a straw hat at the Palo Alto Concour, you ain't nobody! LOL

For those interested in a pan like mine, I'll have to look up the people's names I dealt with at Moroso. I don't know if they have all those dimensions / bends, etc. saved in a CAD system or not. I would think they'd need something like that to duplicate it very easily. I'll post back on this thread later when I find out. Bear with me on that though. Here's a few more pics. Note the baffle with swinging door.

Also, for those interested, I posted some pics in post # 41 of a dolly system that is very helpful for someone fitting and building a car by yourself with no help available.
 

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I might be interested in one as well, so I don't have to cut up mine for the power rack. I could draw up the cad file, if you have all the dimensions.
 
I'm also wanting one of these pans for my AlterKtion Hemi car...

Maybe we can ask for a group buy?

Riddler
 
I'm wondering if it's such a good idea for you guys to buy this pan (if we could arrange it) given it's designed specifically for my car. Depending on what headers you're using; starter motor used; AlterK or stock K , you could end up with interference issues. I only designed this after a number of issues were dealt with and decisions made. I don't think it would work with a stock K and drag link; probably not with the NAG1 (pass.side starter) etc.

I was originally going to get the Milodon unit but got a big attitude from the head guy there when I dared to ask a few questions. I refuse to give my hard earned money to people with an attitude (I've run into a few during my build journey) so I decided to design my own.

Rather than create excess posts on my build thread, can someone start another thread on this subject and I'd be happy to chime in. Possibly others would want to get involved as well. Is an arrangement like that within the rules of the website?
 
A little bit of discussion within a thread is to be expected...especially on build threads where ideas are frequently exchanged.

I understand your desire not to have the thread go off track...but you'll find your next post will retrieve it soon enough ;)
 
Most of the guys wanting the pan have the alterktion and have chosen to use a 545rfe, 727 or a t56. All of which are the same or very close in design and size as yours.

Plus we all know every part requires some massaging to get right. If its not the pan it'll be something else.

Post more pictures and your build thread goes back on track. Trust me on that.

Riddler
 
LOL O.K., let me get ahold of the guy at Moroso and see if they have the dimensions saved. By my experience, they ARE the "go to" company for a nice pan. They build the new Drag Pak Challenger pans (front sump) so they already have the thick rails available with cutouts for oil return, etc. I heard crappy feedback from a guy with a Charlie's pan. He said his welds were horrible whereas these Moroso welds are BEAUTIFUL. I'll get back to you guys once I talk to Moroso.


Riddler said:
Most of the guys wanting the pan have the alterktion and have chosen to use a 545rfe, 727 or a t56. All of which are the same or very close in design and size as yours.

Plus we all know every part requires some massaging to get right. If its not the pan it'll be something else.

Post more pictures and your build thread goes back on track. Trust me on that.

Riddler
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Riddler said:
Most of the guys wanting the pan have the alterktion and have chosen to use a 545rfe, 727 or a t56. All of which are the same or very close in design and size as yours.

Plus we all know every part requires some massaging to get right. If its not the pan it'll be something else.

Post more pictures and your build thread goes back on track. Trust me on that.

Riddler
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I 2nd that:cheers: What would also be good if you would be able to post the dimensions of the PAN, i.e depth etc. Man im in love with that pan bro!
 
Cuda SRT8: Great job and an excellent display of your various skills.

Are you going to leave the spare tire exposed like the Shelby or are you thinking about obtaining/making a Mopar cover for it?
 
Cuda SRT8 said:
LOL O.K., let me get ahold of the guy at Moroso and see if they have the dimensions saved. By my experience, they ARE the "go to" company for a nice pan. They build the Drag Pak pans (front sump) so they already have the thick rails available with cutouts for oil return, etc. I heard crappy feedback from a guy with a Charlie's pan. He said his welds were horrible whereas these Moroso welds are BEAUTIFUL. I'll get back to you guys once I talk to Moroso.
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I had a Charlie's pan, big POS in my opinion.
 
I got a charlies pan, no problems....so why is it a P.O.S.? Was it just the fitment with the alterk and rack??
 
Put me down for one of your custom oil pans!!

I can't believe how great your build is coming - fantastic work!!
 
Just for starters (ok, bad joke), the following pics represent the "evolution" of what I went through to end up with a starter arrangement I could use and be able to sleep at night. No really, this sort of crap keeps me awake at night! LOL

The first two pics show a Mopar Perf. mini starter that I'd had for many years, planning to use on this car someday with a 440 in it. As you can see, it hits the header on the outside and hits the block on the inside.
 

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The next picture shows an ideal starter setup, if you don't need a super duper, heavy duty, race type clutch and pressure plate. The picture shows my original MP 5.7 crate motor (360hp) when I was using a TKO500. I used a (2005 RAM 2500 pickup), Hemi / manual trans starter; bellhousing; flywheel and Sachs clutch/pressure plate for this arrangement. Everything fit SOOOOO nice until I decided to upgrade to a 6.1 / 392 stroker with TKO600 and MP/Lakewood scattershield. This opened a can of worms.

It's getting late tonight, so I'll continue with this in the morning...
 

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Of course clearancing the block is no big deal.....but the pipes are a headache......looking fwd to seeing how you fixed it .
 
Cuda SRT8 said:
Originally, I ordered up TTI's headers and engine mount brackets for my stock K member. I wanted a simple bolt-in conversion, with no cutting of my very clean, no rust "California car". (I bought it when it was 10 years old and have stored it inside ever since.)

The TTI conversion pieces didn't fit worth CRAP! I called them about this and they said "gee, we've never had any OTHER complaints". Yeah, right. The alternator virtually touched the frame flange on the pass. side; the header hit the torsion bar on the driver side to the point you could not get the T-bar into the control arm socket. Plus, not only was it offset to the pass. side (like any old Mopar), it was also CROOKED. Looked like hell.

Per TTI's suggestions, I tried shimming the mounts in all types of configurations, but it just got worse. It raised the engine higher in the front; it sat ****-eyed and the shims made it harder to get the biscuit studs / bolts in the holes. I decided to "bite the bullit" and purchase an AlterKtion kit. In hind sight, I do have an excellent solution for fitting the TTI kit with a stock K member, for anyone who may be interested.
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I made exactly the same experience with TTI. They told me they sold more than 120 sets and never had any complains. I'm the first. That was it. I ended up with notching the frame on 2 positions and cutted and re-weld the mounts after I brought the engine into the final and correct position....
 
Rat Patrol,
Do notice that with the combo above, it was not necessary to shave off the rear pan rail ears on the side of the block. In fact, in that pic you can see the factory reinforcement bracket bolted up to the ears which braces the lower block and transmission together.

They're all factory components, engineered to go together in a '05 Dodge Ram. That's what my original goal was, to use as many new factory parts as possible, put inside an old body shell.


Rat Patrol said:
Of course clearancing the block is no big deal.....but the pipes are a headache......looking fwd to seeing how you fixed it .
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Buschi340,
If I could go back in time, the one thing I would have tried was to cut the mount brackets off the K frame; bolt everything up to the engine; set it all back down on the K frame and re-position the engine so everything clears and then weld 'er back in. I didn't think of it at the time. I was so frustrated with the kit that I sent it all back for a refund. Well, except for the headers. They're pretty nice!


Quote from Buschi340:
"I made exactly the same experience with TTI. They told me they sold more than 120 sets and never had any complains. I'm the first. That was it. I ended up with notching the frame on 2 positions and cutted and re-weld the mounts after I brought the engine into the final and correct position.... "
 
Cuda SRT8 said:
Rat Patrol,
Do notice that with the combo above, it was not necessary to shave off the rear pan rail ears on the side of the block. In fact, in that pic you can see the factory reinforcement bracket bolted up to the ears which braces the lower block and transmission together.

They're all factory components, engineered to go together in a '05 Dodge Ram. That's what my original goal was, to use as many new factory parts as possible, put inside an old body shell.
Click to expand...


OK thanks..missed that. Good fix :)
 
Cuda SRT8 said:
Buschi340,
If I could go back in time, the one thing I would have tried was to cut the mount brackets off the K frame; bolt everything up to the engine; set it all back down on the K frame and re-position the engine so everything clears and then weld 'er back in. I didn't think of it at the time. I was so frustrated with the kit that I sent it all back for a refund. Well, except for the headers. They're pretty nice!


Quote from Buschi340:
"I made exactly the same experience with TTI. They told me they sold more than 120 sets and never had any complains. I'm the first. That was it. I ended up with notching the frame on 2 positions and cutted and re-weld the mounts after I brought the engine into the final and correct position.... "
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Discussed this with a couple of "experienced hot rodders" yesterday.

Clearly the sensible option until TTI get their "%@t together.
 
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